Re-shanking antique rings

[surfgirl]

I'm wondering what the consensus is regarding re-shanking an antique ring. I ask because my ering has been slightly loose since I got it because I didn't realize the difference in sizing on a ring with a thick shank vs. a very thin shank. We used the size of my last ring, which had a thick shank and was an 8.0. Turns out a very thin shank at that size is a touch too loose (moreso in wintertime) and it should probably be a 7.75 or so. That said, I just spoke to the shop where I bought the ring and they were telling me I should just re shank the ring since the bottom part of the shank is extremely thin anyway. They think it'll crack one day (it's tapered from the setting to the bottom of the shank) and why not just re shank it now and not have to touch it again. I'm really paranoid to send it in even to be re sized because the girdle is so thin and I dont want any accidents, but I really do think it should be a 1/4 size smaller anyway.

So my question is, if it was re shanked, to match the upper portion of the shank (meaning the original shank would remain just below 3:00 and 9:00 and the new portion would match the width of the upper portion of the shank all around, rather than taper), is that in essence "ruining" an Art Deco ring or is it permissible, in terms of retaining the antique quality of the ring? The shop owner feels it's necessary maintenance and nobody will say "it's no longer a period piece because you re-shanked it."

Any thoughts? I'm particularly interested to hear what people like DG, Dave Atlas, and Nicrez think about this issue since you all are in the antique jewelry business...though all comments are of course welcomed! Thanks in advance.

 

[surfgirl]

Thanks ringster, I'll call her tomorrow...Actually, I was wondering how many sizes they had to go to size your ring and did they re shank it or just re size it, do you know? Is your shank thicker?

Heh, I was wondering how our ring avatars would look next to each other...looks like they're related, doesn't it?!

 

[ringster]

Date: 11/27/2007 9:35:48 PM
Author: surfgirl
Thanks ringster, I''ll call her tomorrow...Actually, I was wondering how many sizes they had to go to size your ring and did they re shank it or just re size it, do you know? Is your shank thicker?


Heh, I was wondering how our ring avatars would look next to each other...looks like they''re related, doesn''t it?!

the ring was originally 5 7/8 - so it was sized down about 2 sizes. i think they definitely resized as i can actually see a bit of an indentation where they probably soldered the ring back together. i want to go to lang to ask about this and if it can be smoothed out. it is not awful looking but if you look at the right angle you can see it.

it is about 1.4mm at the bottom and then it gets thicker as it goes up. i was a little concerned about the 1.4 b/c when FI and i went ring shopping there was one place where the salesperson said that the rings should not be less than 2mm. i expressed my concern about the 1.4mm to the appraiser and she seemed to think it is perfectly fine -- she said there is a ring that has been in her family for 100 yrs and is 1mm.

yeah, this thread is the occ sisters thread! our avatars do indeed look related. i was thinking that facetfire''s also is similar. hope you don''t mind the similarity!

 

[crown1]

i am not an expert but am into antiques. i personally feel that you need to preserve original condition most of the time. in the case of your ring i feel that the re-shanking is probably something that needs to be done. i am interested in hearing what the experts advise. good luck!

 

[iheartscience]

I reshanked my grandmother''s 5 stone ring and I don''t think it took anything away from it, antique wise, personally. It looks absolutely perfect and no one would ever know it was done because the work is just flawless.

I think with antique jewelry you just have to do things like that so you can keep wearing it, you know? You can''t just put your precious in a jewelry box and look at it occasionally-that ring deserves to be worn every day!

Has a jeweler told you your stone is super high risk when the ring gets worked on because of the girdle or are you just (rightfully) paranoid about it? I wonder how likely it is for thin girdle stones to get chipped during stuff that doesn''t involve the stone. Maybe an expert could put your mind at ease if it''s highly unlikely?

 

[iwannaprettyone]

Better a sized ring then a lost ring right?

Your ring is stunning btw!

 

[chrono]

Interesting food for thought. I too have 2 lovely antiques and had to reshank the WG ring because it was dangerously worn down. I have no idea how the value will be affected though I''m glad that after the rework, I can safely wear the ring again.

 

[oldminer]

When a shank is worn out one must admit the "value" of the old ring has drastically depreciated. The main value of a period, estate ring mounting is what one could sell it for. If a ring is truly worn out, then you can''t resell it, or you can''t resell it as it is and it must be repaired.

Putting a 1/2 shank on a period piece allows you to continue to wear it or allows a retailer to offer it for sale. Worn out, who would want to buy it? It really can''t be worn past a certain point if the waer is excessive.

What is very problematic, is the unerside of the upper portions of such old rings often wear away, too. This undergallery is often far more difficult to restore in a proper manner. There are lots of jewelry butchers who will ruin a delicate, old ring, with a brutally fabricated "repair" which serves to ruin the beauty and the resale value, all at the same time. Yes, you can still wear the ring, but no one else will ever want to buy that mounting.

As in so many other things to do with jewelry, it takes craftsmanship to fix something properly. Good craftsmanship retains beauty and wearability along with value.

 

[surfgirl]

Thanks for everyone's thoughts thus far...

Dave, the shank isn't worn out, technically. It's just a very thin taper and the bottom most part of the shank probably tapers down to about 1.5mm at the most (possibly less), plus it's knife edged so it looks thinner. It's not that the shank is at a breaking point (and my appraiser said it takes alot to break a ring shank, even a thin one), it's mainly that I dont like to send the ring out at all for any work because of the thin girdle, which is almost knife edged in areas. That is the only reason for my hesitation on having the ring worked on. So, I was thinking that IF I someday might need the ring re shanked, why not just do it now since it should probably be sized down a 1/4 size anyway, thus, it only goes in for work once, then no more. Does that make sense? Mind you, I like the thin shank and it allows me to wear another band on the other side if I want and it's still comfy. I'm just thinking ahead and wondering if re shanking now would be a good precaution to take. It's done and I dont have to think about it ever again.

Is there much of a difference between re shanking and re sizing in terms of the potential for damage to the stone/setting area? I have no idea how one does either. For example, is the ring in some sort of stationary clamp and thus, not much chance for damage to the stone? I just dont know.

As for diminishing the value of the vintage/antique quality of a period piece, I suppose I'm still not sure of your answer above. If the ring is wearable and only needs to be sized slightly, would you then recommend leaving the shank alone and only taking out a small bit on the bottom rather than re shanking? I do know what you mean about people futzing with the actual setting part of an antique ring but that area would remain untouched in this case.

Lastly, I'm glad to know others have re shanked antique/vintage rings and felt comfortable doing so.

 

[Nicrez]

Have you considered just getting a metal sizing ribbon melded into the bottom part of the shank? If done correctly it would build up the original shank, there would be no cutting needed, and it would bulk up the ring to fit tighter.

I don't know if there is miligrain or design on the bottom part of the shank, but if there was the ribbon would not disturb that, as it would run INSIDE the ring... Good luck!

Also that way if you need to size it UP again, you just have them shave off some of the ribbon inside and voila!

 

[surfgirl]

Hi Nicrez! I was hoping you''d weigh in... I''ve never heard of a sizing ribbon...Is that those half moon slivers that sort of hook over the bottom of the shank or is it something else? FYI, there is no millegrain or anything on the shank, other than a subtle knife edge.

BTW, do you have any rec''s on jewelers who are very skilled in working on antique/vintage pieces...either in NYC or LA? Thanks!

 

[Gypsy]

I had wink re-shank my mother''s 7 stone and it came out STUNNING. Seamless and just lovely.... even though I swtched the shank style to comfort fit. I''d do it... but with your stone, through langs or Ari and singlestone. Best of luck!

 

[oldminer]

Not trying to confuse you.

As a mounting wears away, its resale desireability also wears away. At some point, it will wear away to where no one would want to buy it for anything but to melt. If you, as a current owner, desire to extend the usable life of the ring, then you will eventually need to thicken the part which is wearing away. It isn''t a rush, but in time, you will make the decision. The mounting is not an investment, so do what needs to be done to make it wearable for you. I was warning you to have a competent jeweler work on it when the time comes. Don''t walk into a chain or a leased epartment and expect to get personal service of the sort an individual jeweler can provide. Shop around and take recommendations as to who you should entrust your special mounting to for repair work. Once done wrong, it may be impossible to make it right. Get it done correctly on the first try by being careful and knowledgeable.

 

[surfgirl]

Thanks for that clarification Dave.

So to sum up so far, the consensus seems to be that as long as you're not futzing with the actual setting per se, then re-shanking, in order to prolong the use of the original setting, is viewed as fine for an antique piece. Unless I'm misreading the pros...Thanks!

ellen, if you read this, did Quest do anything to your shank or only the center stone setting? Just wondering.

 

[surfgirl]

Date: 11/27/2007 6:14:08 PM
Author: ringster
surfgirl - you might want to call lang''s too as they might be able to give you some advice. you can ask for alison and let her know that alanna referred you.


good luck surfgirl - i know you are protective of your precious!

Ringster! My little soul sister...I just got off the phone with Alison at Lang''s. Thank you SO much for referring me to her - she was so nice and really incredibly helpful! I sensed that Lang''s would never "re shank" a ring to be much different than the original shank because then it would mar the original design and integrity of the ring, and I totally appreciated that! She was really helpful and...she''s got a ring there that I''m really interested in. It''s not on their site yet but I asked if she minded if you were to go in and try it on for me and post a photo and she said it was fine with her. SO...IF you have any free time soon, and you''re interested in a little "assignment" (you were so great last time trying on all those rings for us hungry PSers!), perhaps you could toddle down to Lang''s and check out that ring for me? I''m looking for something that sits low on the finger, not more than maybe 2mm or so...I''d be interested in knowing how it sits next to an ering...so if you''re up for the job, let Alison know you''re coming in and she said she''d pull it for you to try on. THANK YOU so much...You''re like our little "woman in the trenches" up there!

Oh, and if you cant work it into your schedule, no worries at all! I just know you dont need much encouragement to go to Lang''s and try on the pretties...

 

[Tacori E-ring]

My mom has her grandmother''s diamond ring and had to get it re-shanked. Honestly I doubt anyone could tell. The PLT got so thin it was unsafe to wear (I think it got to be 1mm or less). She had it done by a local jeweler but he did a great job.

Aren''t you going to keep your beauty forever? If so I would think resale would not matter.

 

[surfgirl]

Hey Tacori...That''s great to know your ring turned out fine! I''m waiting until I go up to SF myself to take the ring into Lang''s to see what they say. But I''d rather not alter it at all if it''s not necessary...It''s something I''d do if the shank was about to crack or was cracked but it''s not right now...it''s just a might too loose at times...and at other times it''s fine. Darn finger swellage!

Ringster...how about it? Up for trying on a few more pretties...?!?

 

[ringster]

hi surfgirl !! lady you are lucky you got me. i don''t check rocktalky as much cause i''m in wedding planning mode - plus i''m not much of an expert so feel like i don''t have much to add to the rockytalky discussion. although i definitely do check in from time to time here. i always check the hangout so if you don''t get a response from me you can always wave me down there.

and of course i would totally love to check some ring out for ya. so is this a wband? and you want me to check out if the band sits low enough and what type of fire/scintillation it has? anything else? i should definitely be able to stop by this week - i was going to stop by anyway to give alison a little holiday present as a thank you for all of her help (one of the crystal "diamond" paperweights i picked up at nordstroms.

 

[surfgirl]

Date: 12/12/2007 1:09:41 AM
Author: ringster
and of course i would totally love to check some ring out for ya. so is this a wband? and you want me to check out if the band sits low enough and what type of fire/scintillation it has? anything else? i should definitely be able to stop by this week - i was going to stop by anyway to give alison a little holiday present as a thank you for all of her help (one of the crystal 'diamond' paperweights i picked up at nordstroms.

Yes, ringster, those are exactly the things I'd love to know from someone firsthand! Thank you SO much! Not like it's a hardship for you though, is it?!? Since you're going in this week, just ask Alison about the ring I spoke with her about. I think she may have put it on hold but I used your name when I called her so she should know exactly which ring we're talking about...And if you decide YOU love it with your ering, go for it, because you just might want one too, based on her description. Thanks so much...You're such a doll to do this for me!

ETA: Based on talking with her once, Alison will LOVE that gift! What a perfect idea...Gee, I wonder if we can get Nordies to make up a version with old cut faceting? That would be funny...

 

[ringster]

no problemo surfgirl - i will try to get through the experience of trying on more sparklies intact. it''s hard being as you say "in the trenches in nor cal"

and i''m so glad alison helped you - she is an absolute sweetie.

will keep you posted!

 

[ringster]

Date: 12/12/2007 12:42:35 PM
Author: surfgirl

Date: 12/12/2007 1:09:41 AM

Author: ringster

and of course i would totally love to check some ring out for ya. so is this a wband? and you want me to check out if the band sits low enough and what type of fire/scintillation it has? anything else? i should definitely be able to stop by this week - i was going to stop by anyway to give alison a little holiday present as a thank you for all of her help (one of the crystal ''diamond'' paperweights i picked up at nordstroms.

Yes, ringster, those are exactly the things I''d love to know from someone firsthand! Thank you SO much! Not like it''s a hardship for you though, is it?!? Since you''re going in this week, just ask Alison about the ring I spoke with her about. I think she may have put it on hold but I used your name when I called her so she should know exactly which ring we''re talking about...And if you decide YOU love it with your ering, go for it, because you just might want one too, based on her description. Thanks so much...You''re such a doll to do this for me!

hi surfgirl -- so i went to lang''s today and tried on the ring. i unfortunately forgot my camera at home

. luckily, i don''t think the ring is something you''d be interested in. it was wider and higher than the others i tried so i don''t think it will be a good fit. let me know if you find anymore rings you''d like me to look at for you! would be my pleasure and i "have" to do the research anyway!

Gee, I wonder if we can get Nordies to make up a version with old cut faceting? That would be funny...

i was thinking the same thing when i saw them at nordstrom!! that would be too cool!

 

[surfgirl]

Shoot! I had a feeling it was going to be too high on the finger and too wide. Thanks SO much for taking a look...I know what a hardship that was for you...

I really appreciate it.

I hope Alison liked her gift...

 

[ringster]

Date: 12/12/2007 11:34:11 PM
Author: surfgirl
Shoot! I had a feeling it was going to be too high on the finger and too wide. Thanks SO much for taking a look...I know what a hardship that was for you...

I really appreciate it.

no problem!!

I hope Alison liked her gift...

she didn't get a chance to open it while i was there but she was surprised i got something for her and i think appreciated the gesture