Hi there! My partner asked me to upload these pictures here and to ask for a CAD check to see if anything seems off about the design, and also to get your opinions on the current design (and if it looks big and bulky in your opinion). Could we trouble you for your opinions?
The wax/3D printed ring that has the blue sapphire in it is the old draft, whereas the ring that has a “gem” printed in with the rest of the ring is the current draft. I’ve also uploaded the sketches that my partner drew at the beginning of this process, as well as the rendered images for the current CAD draft of the ring. When my partner drafted the original drawings for the ring design, she understood that her draft may not be appropriate proportions after its translated into 3D, so she was expecting some sort of change, but the ring still just feels really big to us.
We feel as though the old draft is too big and bulky, and due to the size of the main gem, we’re not really able to make the ring much smaller, but we wanted to get another opinion as well. Our jeweler said that there must be at least 1.0 mm between the bottom of the main gem and the finger, which makes sense to me (to avoid poking or possibly unseating the gem with force from underneath), but if that’s unusual, if you could let me know, that would be appreciated!
The ring will be:
Unplated white gold
It has a total of 9 gems:
The main blue lab sapphire (3.64 carat, 8.8 mm Long, 7.1 mm Wide, 5.8 mm Deep)
(2) 1.3 mm Yogo Sapphires (reference photo for color attached)
(6) 1.0 mm Yogo Sapphires
We were told that the half wheat on the lower band of the ring will need to be hand engraved, which is why it’s not shown on the CAD or printed versions.
As for the setting of the main gem, it’s currently in a “cage” type design, as my partner really doesn’t like prongs, but we had a previous draft that had that oval set in a hex bezel, and I believe we moved away from that in an attempt to have the gem be more secure. I posted a CAD image of the hex bezel, does it seem realistic that the gem could be secure in a hex bezel like that, or would the bezel need to be more substantial and cover more of the gem to keep it in place? I’m pretty sure the thickness of the bezel in the image is what she would want to go with.
Additionally, my jeweler isn’t familiar with the old practice of putting foil behind gems to affect the light that shows through it, and that’s something my partner specifically requested. Is there some specific verbiage that may be used nowadays to describe that foiling, or is it a really unusual request?
Our jeweler also charges a setting fee of $350 per carat, and since the main stone is 3.64 carats, the price to set the stone is more than double the price that the stone is worth (since it’s a lab sapphire). I haven’t brought up the gem’s value in an attempt to get that setting fee lowered to something more reasonable quite yet (I understand for natural stones, when it makes sense when the setting fee is a sort of insurance for them in case anything goes wrong and they need to pay you back for damages), but we’d love your opinion on how to handle the situation. We’ve been considering just having the jeweler make the ring without the gems, and then bring it to another jeweler that has lower prices, but since all the gems are bezel set and it’s my understanding that those can be more difficult to do, and if something goes wrong in that process of working with another jeweler, I believe that makes it so the original jeweler is no longer obligated to fix the ring’s issue for free (like they would be if we just went through it with them), so it’s leading to a lot of anxiety on my part, and I really just want the ring to be perfect, but without getting charged way too much (in my opinion) for setting the stones. I’m of the mindset that it would be reasonable for me to bring up the value of the stone, and even settle for paying up to the entire value of the stone just for them to set it, what are your thoughts?
Also, we're located in the Seattle area, and since the original gem that we were going to use for this ring was lost while it was shipped (and I made the terrible mistake of not insuring the package), we don't want to have any part of the ring shipped to another jeweler for setting the stones or anything, so if you think I should work with someone else for setting the stones, if you have any recommendations for the Seattle area, that would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you so much for reading through this, and if you have any thoughts to share, or questions that I can help clarify, please let me know!
The wax/3D printed ring that has the blue sapphire in it is the old draft, whereas the ring that has a “gem” printed in with the rest of the ring is the current draft. I’ve also uploaded the sketches that my partner drew at the beginning of this process, as well as the rendered images for the current CAD draft of the ring. When my partner drafted the original drawings for the ring design, she understood that her draft may not be appropriate proportions after its translated into 3D, so she was expecting some sort of change, but the ring still just feels really big to us.
We feel as though the old draft is too big and bulky, and due to the size of the main gem, we’re not really able to make the ring much smaller, but we wanted to get another opinion as well. Our jeweler said that there must be at least 1.0 mm between the bottom of the main gem and the finger, which makes sense to me (to avoid poking or possibly unseating the gem with force from underneath), but if that’s unusual, if you could let me know, that would be appreciated!
The ring will be:
Unplated white gold
It has a total of 9 gems:
The main blue lab sapphire (3.64 carat, 8.8 mm Long, 7.1 mm Wide, 5.8 mm Deep)
(2) 1.3 mm Yogo Sapphires (reference photo for color attached)
(6) 1.0 mm Yogo Sapphires
We were told that the half wheat on the lower band of the ring will need to be hand engraved, which is why it’s not shown on the CAD or printed versions.
As for the setting of the main gem, it’s currently in a “cage” type design, as my partner really doesn’t like prongs, but we had a previous draft that had that oval set in a hex bezel, and I believe we moved away from that in an attempt to have the gem be more secure. I posted a CAD image of the hex bezel, does it seem realistic that the gem could be secure in a hex bezel like that, or would the bezel need to be more substantial and cover more of the gem to keep it in place? I’m pretty sure the thickness of the bezel in the image is what she would want to go with.
Additionally, my jeweler isn’t familiar with the old practice of putting foil behind gems to affect the light that shows through it, and that’s something my partner specifically requested. Is there some specific verbiage that may be used nowadays to describe that foiling, or is it a really unusual request?
Our jeweler also charges a setting fee of $350 per carat, and since the main stone is 3.64 carats, the price to set the stone is more than double the price that the stone is worth (since it’s a lab sapphire). I haven’t brought up the gem’s value in an attempt to get that setting fee lowered to something more reasonable quite yet (I understand for natural stones, when it makes sense when the setting fee is a sort of insurance for them in case anything goes wrong and they need to pay you back for damages), but we’d love your opinion on how to handle the situation. We’ve been considering just having the jeweler make the ring without the gems, and then bring it to another jeweler that has lower prices, but since all the gems are bezel set and it’s my understanding that those can be more difficult to do, and if something goes wrong in that process of working with another jeweler, I believe that makes it so the original jeweler is no longer obligated to fix the ring’s issue for free (like they would be if we just went through it with them), so it’s leading to a lot of anxiety on my part, and I really just want the ring to be perfect, but without getting charged way too much (in my opinion) for setting the stones. I’m of the mindset that it would be reasonable for me to bring up the value of the stone, and even settle for paying up to the entire value of the stone just for them to set it, what are your thoughts?
Also, we're located in the Seattle area, and since the original gem that we were going to use for this ring was lost while it was shipped (and I made the terrible mistake of not insuring the package), we don't want to have any part of the ring shipped to another jeweler for setting the stones or anything, so if you think I should work with someone else for setting the stones, if you have any recommendations for the Seattle area, that would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you so much for reading through this, and if you have any thoughts to share, or questions that I can help clarify, please let me know!
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