Sapphire decision. Help please!

[VeryUndecided]

Hi guys,

I usually do not wear jewerly at all. But, IF I DO wear it, then I love to enjoy its beauty...You have helped me in the past to choose a really cute diamond ring. It still sparkles like crazy! That is, if we ever get any sunshine over here Well, it even sparkles in the shade Thank you so much!

My DH knows that I absolutely love the Prussian Blue colour and decided to make my day by giving me this entirely amazing sapphire ring. It would be super amazing, except...I have to choose it. It puts me under so much stress! I only have a couple of pictures, what do you think? How would you comment on the stones? Anything, I should watch out for?

I have tried to read the entire thread and educate myself but honestly...It goes so much over my head. I guess, I prefer the "medium-blue" (if that is what it is called?) over the slightly purplish one...I also like it to be "clear" - I am not sure that I express myself correctly.

I am curious what you'd say about these rings. Help, please!

 

[pokerface]

If you prefer medium blue, then the second stone is the clear winner. Ask to see a photo of the ring on someone's hand and in natural light. And of course, you'll need a reputable lab report for what looks to be a well-made and pricy piece of jewelry.

 

[VeryUndecided]

I am gonna see it in real life soon. My husband is having them shipped and put a deposit on them. I just do not know how to apraise and judge the stones...I know nothing about sapphires and very little about diamonds. Generally, I just like sparkly things and lovely jewel tones...both in my handbags and jewerly. But I have no idea how to appraise these things and make a sensible choice.

 

[VeryUndecided]

"you'll need a reputable lab report" -
would you mind explaining for what I should be looking on the lab report?

 

[chrono]

Do you care whether it is heated or unheated?

View the ring in all types of lighting (indoors, outdoors, etc) to make sure you are happy with whatever colour it shifts too. Make sure it doesn't black out.

 

[VeryUndecided]

Do you care whether it is heated or unheated?

View the ring in all types of lighting (indoors, outdoors, etc) to make sure you are happy with whatever colour it shifts too. Make sure it doesn't black out.

How do I make sure that it doesn't black out? Do you have some examples?

I do not care whether it is heated or unheated. I just like sparkly things My husband prefers unheated. I don't even know what it means

 

[chrono]

There is a significant price difference between heated and unheated. This is what @pokerface was referring to when she wrote about reputable lab report. An independent and reputable lab such as GIA, AGS, etc will note treatment so that you know whether you are overpaying or getting what you are paying for.

As for "blacking out", it means that the stone looks blackish instead of blue when you change the light source.

 

[VeryUndecided]

There is a significant price difference between heated and unheated. This is what @pokerface was referring to when she wrote about reputable lab report. An independent and reputable lab such as GIA, AGS, etc will note treatment so that you know whether you are overpaying or getting what you are paying for.

As for "blacking out", it means that the stone looks blackish instead of blue when you change the light source.

Oh, thanks! I see.

 

[VeryUndecided]

So this is the GIA report for one of them. I guess, it is "heated"? It is also smaller than the "medium blue" one. I guess that one is unheated.
But those report tell me nothing at all. What does it all mean? For what should I look? The "unheated one" was about 7.5 carat and just a lovely shade of blue. But I was told, it was a "relatively" light blue. I do not like the stones that look very dark, almost black...Too dark for me. It is so difficult to get anything to compare where I live.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[chrono]

Yes, the GIA memo tells you the stone is from Sri Lanka (some people care about origin) and that the sapphire is heated.

As for the other stone, I'd rather not presume whether it is heated or unheated.

 

[VeryUndecided]

Yes, the GIA memo tells you the stone is from Sri Lanka (some people care about origin) and that the sapphire is heated.

As for the other stone, I'd rather not presume whether it is heated or unheated.

I know for a fact that other stone in unheated. I think it either comes from Ceylon or Sri Lanka. I am not sure about that though.

What I the reason that some people care about the origin of the stone? What is "the best" country of origin and what makes it "best"?

I only know that I like blue color Wouldn't want the ring looking black. I guess the darker the stone the more tendency it would have to turn black, wouldn't it?

 

[VividRed]

I know for a fact that other stone in unheated. I think it either comes from Ceylon or Sri Lanka. I am not sure about that though.

What I the reason that some people care about the origin of the stone? What is "the best" country of origin and what makes it "best"?

I only know that I like blue color Wouldn't want the ring looking black. I guess the darker the stone the more tendency it would have to turn black, wouldn't it?

For you information, Ceylon is the old name of today’s Sri Lanka.

Same for Burma (old name) and Myanmar (new name)

 

[VeryUndecided]

For you information, Ceylon is the old name of today’s Sri Lanka.

Same for Burma (old name) and Myanmar (new name)

Oops. Now I've really done embarrassing myself! I don't think I'll ever forget that fact. Thanks for the info!

What are the reasons that people like the sapphires from a particular location?

 

[Cerulean]

Oops. Now I've really done embarrassing myself! I don't think I'll ever forget that fact. Thanks for the info!

What are the reasons that people like the sapphires from a particular location?

Different regions of the world have have reputations for producing the top of the top in certain gemstones, and within that certain colors are more common. The top blue sapphires are typically from Burma, Sri Lanka and Kashmir. (For example, Burmese sapphires are commonly darker in tone, where’s you can find a lot of beautiful lighter to mid tone blues from Sri Lanka - I’m not sure how common exceptions are but these are generalities)

but you can also find sapphires all over the world with different characteristics, other well known regions (to name a few) are Madagascar, Tanzania, Thailand, Myanmar, Australia and Montana, USA but you will find they are very different - for examples Montana sapphires are famously grayish, color shifting smoky blues and light greens. But again there are exceptions - I’ve seen orange, brown, pink and parti (mixed color) sapphires from Montana too! They are just less common

Then, a particular region gains notoriety (or infamy - for a long time Montana sapphires were very low priced because of the colors typical of the region but now they are much more popular and therefore expensive.) So, the origin location itself becomes a factor in valuing a stone. For example, the most coveted and expensive sapphires of superior quality you see are from Kashmir - the classic lush, velvety, vivid blue is known to come from Kashmir sapphire and the mines there are closed so they are increasingly rare and demand extremely high prices - BUT that does not mean you can’t find an incredible blue sapphire of similar color and quality from Sri Lanka for a far lower price. And that also means that you can find a poor quality Kashmiri sapphire that is inflated in cost simply due to its origin.

 

[VeryUndecided]

Different regions of the world have have reputations for producing the top of the top in certain gemstones, and within that certain colors are more common. The top blue sapphires are typically from Burma, Sri Lanka and Kashmir. (For example, Burmese sapphires are commonly darker in tone, where’s you can find a lot of beautiful lighter to mid tone blues from Sri Lanka - I’m not sure how common exceptions are but these are generalities)

but you can also find sapphires all over the world with different characteristics, other well known regions (to name a few) are Madagascar, Tanzania, Thailand, Myanmar, Australia and Montana, USA but you will find they are very different - for examples Montana sapphires are famously grayish, color shifting smoky blues and light greens. But again there are exceptions - I’ve seen orange, brown, pink and parti (mixed color) sapphires from Montana too! They are just less common

Then, a particular region gains notoriety (or infamy - for a long time Montana sapphires were very low priced because of the colors typical of the region but now they are much more popular and therefore expensive.) So, the origin location itself becomes a factor in valuing a stone. For example, the most coveted and expensive sapphires of superior quality you see are from Kashmir - the classic lush, velvety, vivid blue is known to come from Kashmir sapphire and the mines there are closed so they are increasingly rare and demand extremely high prices - BUT that does not mean you can’t find an incredible blue sapphire of similar color and quality from Sri Lanka for a far lower price. And that also means that you can find a poor quality Kashmiri sapphire that is inflated in cost simply due to its origin.

Thanks so much! This is so informative!

I was wondering if anyone had pictures to illustrate the blue colors? What is "Velvety"? What that does look like? What does "Vivid" look like?

I wish there was a clear criteria for Sapphires...

 

[VeryUndecided]

Based on the pictures above, how would you comment about the colors and other qualities of the stones like "vividness" or being "Velvety"? I am just really curious about the opinions of people with trained eyes and experience.

To me, the darker (heated) one has a purplish hue to it. It also looks to me a little bit "blurred" - I do not know the right terminology. The lighter one (would that be considered cornflower blue?) seems to me a bit more "crispy". Am I totally off on this?

 

[prs]

FWIW this is a copy of the Lotus Gemology sapphire color chart

 

[VividRed]

FWIW this is a copy of the Lotus Gemology sapphire color chart

I like this reference table (have it printed since I have the book Ruby & Sapphire) but find it difficult to read because all stones have different cut, depth, clarity, etc.

You get a rough idea but trade names are more of a marketing thing (pigeon blood red being another good example).

 

[Bron357]

I really like ring No 2 if lighter blue is your preference.
My advice is to buy what YOU love.
Information -
1. You need a lab report because you need to make sure it is a natural sapphire, not lab created, it’s treatment status and origin.
2. treatment status can be unheated, heated, heated with residues and heated with Beryillium diffusion. Unheated and heat (only) are acceptable treatment levels. Heated with residue and/or heated with BE are NOT acceptable unless you know this and are paying very little money for the sapphire. Many would say chose man made over highly treated if price is an issue.
3. Origin. Sapphires are found in many places. Some people place huge emphasis on origin and it can dramatically affect price. Kashmir origin is the top origin and Burmese behind that. BUT the reason why these origins are so desired is that the colour, appearance and rarity (Kashmir), if true to origin, is astonishingly beautiful IF you love velvet or royal blue with maximum vividness.
4. Colour. Is complicated due to their being hue, tone and saturation. Choosing which is a personal choice depending on what appearance is your favourite.
You should always buy what you love.
So in summary, unheated is more expensive than heat only BUT unheated can have lower clarity. Treatments other than heat only should be avoided.
Origin might matter, if the report says Kashmir or Burma you will be paying many more dollars than if it says Ceylon or other. This is just because a premium is associated with Kashmir and Burmese sapphires.
Colour choice is personal. If you love vivid Velvet blue, considered a trade ideal, you will be paying ALOT more than similar sapphire but in say pastel blue or more purple toned or deeper blue toned.
Vivid matters because it “lights up in sunlight and under led lights”. However Medium to dark tone sapphires “hate” yellow toned lighting or low light conditions. Pastel sapphires will be more “sparkly” in good light but can be insipid / flat in low light.
You need to check out the sapphires in your lighting conditions to see how they perform. Rarely will a sapphire look fabulous in ALL lighting.
Here are some photos of my sapphire with different light intensities.

 

[VeryUndecided]

1. Both come with official lab reports
2. One is unheated, the other one is heated but no other treatment.
3. Both come originally from Sri Lanka
4. Both are blue but different shades of blue
5. Similar sizes, 5.99 carat and 7, I forget which.

I find it impossible to judge anything based on photos. But I am also not sure it will be any easier for me in real life since I really do not have any experience with sapphires and haven't even seen that many. Plus, I will only be able to view them under the lightening conditions of the store. But thanks! At least now I know to try looking at the ring under the table

I think, in US, people have many more options because there are a lot of reputable vendors, who are willing to ship stones around and have good return policy. It is much more complicated in Europe and the choices are fairly limited.

 

[prs]

Jewelry auction previews are often a good place to go see and compare sapphires in person in all different quality levels. The good thing is the sapphires are usually fairly priced relative to their quality by the colored stone experts who work for the auctioneer. This is when you get to learn what "vivid" means and what makes a truly great sapphire.

I know there are plenty of auctioneers in London, not sure about major cities on the Continent.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

1. Both come with official lab reports
2. One is unheated, the other one is heated but no other treatment.
3. Both come originally from Sri Lanka
4. Both are blue but different shades of blue
5. Similar sizes, 5.99 carat and 7, I forget which.

I find it impossible to judge anything based on photos. But I am also not sure it will be any easier for me in real life since I really do not have any experience with sapphires and haven't even seen that many. Plus, I will only be able to view them under the lightening conditions of the store. But thanks! At least now I know to try looking at the ring under the table

I think, in US, people have many more options because there are a lot of reputable vendors, who are willing to ship stones around and have good return policy. It is much more complicated in Europe and the choices are fairly limited.

as someone who knows little but has been very dissapointed by too dark saphires
be very careful about falling in love with something under store lighting conditions

we all need a @Bron357 to go shopping with

best fo luck and i look forward to seeing what you end up with
As Bron says go with what you love

 

[LilAlex]

You simply can not do this with smartphone photos over the internet or by posting photos and asking strangers. A subtle tweak of the saturation or contrast or exposure can make a sapphire look like one costing 10X as much. Most of these tweaks happen imperceptibly in the camera/phone even when the vendor says they are "unedited." You need to see them in person. You need to see them side by side and see how the one you are buying compares to the mid-five-figure one that is maybe not even that much bigger.

Or you can work with a broker-type vendor who will help you prioritize. Otherwise you just get "Don't love that one? Here's another beauty in our inventory!"

Do not buy at auction unless you are very experienced and can preview. (And I am not talking eBay.) A lot of these auctions have opened up to clowns like me clicking away at home. It's ridiculous. It is not the top material; even the top houses now seem to have their "play-along-at-home" pretend auctions. There may even be the odd GIA report in there but that is not the imprimatur of quality ("Ooh -- it's genuine!")

The hues are more different than the tones in your examples; one is violetish-blue and the other is a pure blue or even a hint of teal.

I can not emphasize enough the importance of seeing them side by side. There is a huge spectrum of sapphire taste on this forum -- from pastel to dark and every hue imaginable. All are defensible. Most people here seem to prefer medium to medium-dark tone. How your vendor interprets that is a wild-card.

 

[LilAlex]

I know there are plenty of auctioneers in London

If OP is in London, just go to Berganza. I've been tempted to make the trip just for that!

 

[VeryUndecided]

If OP is in London, just go to Berganza. I've been tempted to make the trip just for that!

I am in continental Europe. Before Covid, it would be just an easy weekend trip to go to London. But now that feels like another era...

Thanks for the tip though! I liked looking at the pictures they have on their website. Great inspiration!

 

[VeryUndecided]

as someone who knows little but has been very dissapointed by too dark saphires
be very careful about falling in love with something under store lighting conditions

we all need a @Bron357 to go shopping with

best fo luck and i look forward to seeing what you end up with
As Bron says go with what you love

You are absolutely right! I will try to take a look in different light conditions to the best of my ability.

Most people around here do not wear a lot of bling so the market has adjusted accordingly and there is simply not that much choice

 

[VeryUndecided]

I've got just a couple more pictures...
What do you think?

I'll be finally able to see it tomorrow! Can't wait!

 

[LilAlex]

^ Very boosted saturation (e.g., blue channel) and contrast in at least the second image, imo. I do not think that those are fair representations.

EDIT: I think you will notice that the last set of photos looks nothing like the first set of photos for the exact same ring. A problem with not seeing a bunch of them is that you do not know "how high is up." Even experienced vendors may carry around one or more color archetypes just for reality-testing (= having an available gold standard) when they are considering a purchase. I think any high-clarity, well-proportioned emerald-cut sapphire (from pastel to deep) would make you gasp when you open the box at home. That does not mean that it's the best you can do.

 

[VeryUndecided]

^ Very boosted saturation (e.g., blue channel) and contrast in at least the second image, imo. I do not think that those are fair representations.

Maybe it's because they were taken under very bright indoor lights.

Another possibility is maybe my computer? Because when I look at the image on my iPhone, it does not look that blue. But on my Mac Book, it does! Weird.

I'll be able to take some pictures of my own tomorrow. I am getting really excited!

 

[LilAlex]

Maybe it's because they were taken under very bright indoor lights

That won't do it. Every posted photo of a gem (except for maybe opal) is taken under very bright light.

I am just a little concerned because you say you do not wear or buy jewelry (!) so I infer that you are more susceptible to some vendor "push" tactics than many other folks on this forum. And holiday "hurry-up" is not always conducive to making the wisest purchases (I have been there). Those look like 1st Dibs photos but I can not say for certain. Prices there can be quite flexible as I am sure you know.