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Setting search & advice: five-stone ring

GemFever

GemFever

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 28, 2011
Messages
2,419
Hi guys,

I would really appreciate some help in finding a setting. I love looking for stones myself, but when it comes to settings my mind just goes blank and refuses to concentrate & research.

The ring I’d like to end up with: a five-stone ring with square stones, like princess cuts, around 4mm each. I am not yet sure whether 5 square stones, ~4mm each, may be too much for my size 4.5 finger. That’s almost 2cm of diamonds. Is it too much, or do you think it could work? Would it be bulky? Should the stones be just a little smaller, maybe 3.5mm? Or maybe it should be an RHR and go on my size 5.75 finger... I'm not quite sure yet which finger will be its main "home." I know this is important, but I can't make up my mind. When I have a solitaire again, I think it will be too much for my left hand. But I'd like to wear it a lot... I don't like having diamonds that I don't wear.

For the setting, I’d like something with clean lines, maybe geometrically-inspired… nothing flowery or ornate. I’d like as much light to reach the stones as possible, and yet for the setting to be sturdy enough for daily wear without too much babying. I’d like the stones set low, too. And I’d like the profile to be nice to look at (even if there is minimal metal, I don't want the profile to be an afterthought). I’ve noticed that a poor profile really drives me bonkers. What else… probably no split shanks.

Important consideration: budget. I don't have a whole lot to spend on the setting at the moment, but I would like to get it done right the first time. Right now I'm just in the research phase, but I'd like to know what my options are. Is there a simple setting out there that can meet all my requirements, or should I suck it up and wait until I can afford to contact one of the more expensive PS-favored jewelers? Can some bench in NYC re-create a design for me, or is that likely to result in a sub-par ring that will just have to be replaced later? Maybe there is a stock setting out there for me?

That’s about it. Any ideas? I’d really appreciate ‘em! Maybe links to other threads I should look at? Thanks for reading this far! :wavey:
 
Currently reading through packrat's threads :read:
 
I am kind of surprised to hear you are interested in a very contemporary ring when you have mostly posted about old cuts and jewelry! Are you sure this ring will work with your other pieces? Or maybe you plan a contemporary set, too!

In well cut stones, the light enters and exits the top of the stone, so whether the sides are exposed has nothing much to do with the light return. But certainly you can have open sides if you like the look. I think with the stones set very low, you might not see as much of the sides, though.

A lot of people are very happy with 5 stone custom rings made by vendors such as WhiteFlash and BG. The other option is to go with someone like Victor Canera or Steven Kirsch.

I have seen 5 stone asscher rings but I have never seen a 5 stone princess. I do think asschers would work a lot better with other antique cut stones.
 
DS, thanks for your post! You're right, I'm more interested in old cuts. I don't actually own much antique jewelry though, besides an art-deco filigree pendant and one emerald flower cluster ring from ebay. Oh, and my earrings of course :bigsmile: But they are set in a very simple silver & gold antique setting. So simple is my style. My OEC was set in a basic yellow gold 6-prong, and when I upgrade (to another OEC), I'll have the same kind of setting.

These stones will be... I am still afraid to say it "out loud" because it's not completely finalized and I don't have anything in my hands yet, but they'll be French cuts :bigsmile: I only mentioned princess cuts because they are also square and have similar dimensions.

White Flash and BG... they work with outside stones?
 
Thanks DS! The first is a little fancier than I want, I don't want to add any stones to the 5 main ones. Second one looks intriguing if there was nothing on the band. And I wonder if the band can taper a bit, so it's thinner in the back.

Steven Kirsch though... probably on the pricier side, right? I could request a quote, but I don't want to waste their time, either... maybe a little down the road I will, if I decide to really invest in the perfect setting.

This is good, I'm going to narrow down my preferences. Thanks!
 
French cuts!!!! :love: Oh, in that case, hands down Victor or Steven! I agree with doing it right, and they are who I would have do it. I am sure they can suggest designs. I am sure you know that they are usually put in channel settings and I think that would be magnificent with milgrain edges and engraving on the rest of the shank. Otherwise, they would be set more like some of the asscher setttings above.

This is smaller than a 5 stone, but one of my very favorite bands is a french cut one by Victor:

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/bands/french-cut-diamond-and-engraved-band

The video gives a better look at it.
 
I have a dim memory of Hunt County doing a really fabulous five-stone for somebody here, and I remember their prices are reasonable. Might be worth looking into ....
 
DS - I know right! *frenchies*! This has to be special. But also wearable... I wonder of 5 stones by 4mm is too much. I can't wear bulky stuff daily... I need to be really careful with this, I don't want regrets and resets. Maybe I should have waited until I actually have some stones in my hands before starting this thread, but in a way, knowing what the final setting may be will also help me know exactly what kind of stones I want.

Circe, maybe it was Kismet's? I just found a whole thread of 5-stones. A little face-palm moment here, but I'm still glad I have this thread for advice and ideas.

Kismet's ring is goooorgeous. But the stones aren't square or graduated. Still, I'll contact Hunt Country, esp. since they are kind of local to me... neighboring state, 1h drive.
 
Looking at Hunt Country rings photos... they are so organic and flowy... while what I like about french cuts is their geometric nature.

Here's a photo I found in packrat's thread when she was researching for an AVC 5-stone.



Too bad it's a Leon. I don't want to spend a mini fortune on the setting. I'm trying to spend *just enough.* But I really like the look of the ring, except maybe without those round side stones.

leon_5stone_cushion.jpg
 
Victor made that design for mom2boys 5 stone ring. I am sure it could be done for square stones. I like Hunt Country for organic type pieces especially for colored stones, but I don't see that style at all for french cuts, personally.

http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/bands/five-stone-graduated-u-prong-band

The thing is, I would decide on the design and then have Victor source the right french cuts rather than the other way around.
 
DS, thanks for the link. I'm hoping to have the stones custom-cut in NYC. Not sure it will work out yet, but hope to know soon.

After looking around, I've narrowed down some ideas...

I love the look of Enerchi's 7-stone ring. I love the setting and hope she won't mine me posting a pic here... This is a profile I *really* like:



With maybe a little modified shank, a little flatter.

I also love the look of packrat's 3-stone AVC band, though I know she re-set it later. Both versions are awesome, but for my look I really like the first one she had. I'm not sure how people feel about re-posts of hand shots, so I won't post here.

So, my inspirations are a 7-stone and a 3-stone! :lol: I hope that look can be made to work with a 5-stone.

Any tips on how to do the math of whether the millimeters will add up to being too much, or just right? I don't want to over-cover my finger, I don't want stones to spill over into the space between my fingers, if that makes sense.

enerchi_s_7-stone_profile_-_copy.jpg
 
Hi Gem Fever,

I have a size 4.5 5 stone RB ring in production right now at BGD. The total carat weight is about 1.25 so the stones are right at 4.0mm each. Anywhere between 1.00 and 1.25 tcw seemed to be the sweet spot for me.

Below is a *not great* pic of a 1.0 tcw very low profile ring by Precision Set. I ended up with a setting similar to this. This is a size 5 ring. You can still slightly see the metal at the edge of my finger, which is why we opted for 1.25 tcw for slightly better coverage. I don't think it is going to hang off at all. I've read everything I can find about tcw and 5 stones and people with 4.5 ring size, and this 1 - 1.25 range seems the most popular choice for something low profile, wearable, and comfortable. Sorry the pic isn't clearer.



For what its worth I think that BGD's custom route worked out great for me, and they say on their website that you can use your own stones. Going custom with them still saved me like 30% or more off a "designer" ring.

photo__17_4.jpg
 
Julia, thanks so much for your post. The size of the ring on that pic looks just about perfect. I think I'll be able to get away with 4mm stones if everything works out.

I just came across a photo of the ring Yssie had made for her mom through WF. I've had this design saved in my favorites for a while... I wonder if it could work with square stones. I'm guessing this was a custom project, I wonder if Yssie would mind if I copied it... I could stare at that engraving all day. I know I said I want simple lines, but somehow I have a weak spot for this particular design.



Still just brainstorming. Trying to while away the time until I will actually know whether the stones work out ;)

yssie_s_wf_5-stone.png
 
 
GemFever|1361392699|3385561 said:
Julia, thanks so much for your post. The size of the ring on that pic looks just about perfect. I think I'll be able to get away with 4mm stones if everything works out.

I just came across a photo of the ring Yssie had made for her mom through WF. I've had this design saved in my favorites for a while... I wonder if it could work with square stones. I'm guessing this was a custom project, I wonder if Yssie would mind if I copied it... I could stare at that engraving all day. I know I said I want simple lines, but somehow I have a weak spot for this particular design.



Still just brainstorming. Trying to while away the time until I will actually know whether the stones work out ;)
Click to expand...

GemFever,

Glad you like the proportions too. :) I love Yssie's ring too! Ordinarily mixed metals and milgrain isn't my thing, but in this case it toooootally works. It is a custom piece and was made by Whiteflash. Whiteflash will not do custom work without using their own certified stones that start at .30, so bigger than either you or me can handle in a 5 stone. BGD advised me that their U prong 5 stones frequently came back with damage to the sides of the stones, and given I want a ring for near daily wear I decided to steer clear of that design.
 
Julia_SD|1361394233|3385588 said:
Glad you like the proportions too. :) I love Yssie's ring too! Ordinarily mixed metals and milgrain isn't my thing, but in this case it toooootally works. It is a custom piece and was made by Whiteflash. Whiteflash will not do custom work without using their own certified stones that start at .30, so bigger than either you or me can handle in a 5 stone. BGD advised me that their U prong 5 stones frequently came back with damage to the sides of the stones, and given I want a ring for near daily wear I decided to steer clear of that design.
Click to expand...

Ah, interesting! I thought Yssie used her own OECs for the 5-stone though, but maybe I misread somewhere.

Thanks for the tip about the U-prongs. I do like the look, but I want durability as well.

Will you be getting your ring from BGD soon? I'd love to see the setting you picked! Will you make a SMTB thread?
 
Ok, so I know the stones aren't square.

BUT, here's a very accurate copy of the Memoire Petite Prong 5 stone, size 5.5 (and seems sizable) 1.05 tcw, platinum, for $950 on diamond bistro. This is something like 80% the original price for the designer version. Its going to be sleek and modern, very low set, very comfortable, and the shoulder meets the stones at the exact same height. I tried one on recently and can confirm all that.

http://diamondbistro.com/index.php?a=2&b=33460

Maybe someone else looking at 5 stones will see this and head that way...
 
GemFever, you use any of my pics or whatever you need to help you figure out what you want to do! If you have any questions about the five stone/three stone in yellow/three stone in wg, just holler, I'd love to help!

I am SO SO SO jealous of you getting a band of frenchies! That's something I've been contemplating but trying to be a big girl and tell myself it's not practical for us, financially.
 
Julia, thanks for the link, hopefully that ring will find a happy home soon!

Packrat, thanks for checking in! I'll post the photo of the 3-stone you had for a while that I really like. Since i'll be doing this in yellow gold (I know, not everyone's favorite, but MY favorite :cheeky: ) I think I'm especially drawn to it. And I like the square look. Would you mind telling me the millimeter measurements of those stones, and what size ring you wear? Also, how did that setting feel on your hand?



Re: frenchies... I won't believe it till I actually have them in my hands. I've had some close calls in my search, so knock on wood!

But I'm still excited enough to want to narrow down my setting options :rodent:

packrat_s_0.jpg
 
I actually liked the stones in yellow gold..made them really yellow. I adore them like crazy in the unplated wg now, but they were still certainly beautiful in yellow.

My ring fingers are both 4.5, just a smidge less now from weightloss and when it's cold, but close enough. The setting felt great on my hand..I liked it a lot. Mmmm I've gotta think about the mm's of them..the sides are um..4.something and the center was just a tish bigger. I traded that center in for a bigger L. I'll go look for the sizes..

K, the .48 sides are 4.65x4.52 and the center of that one is...gah I can't find it. 4.85 or something. The L center I have now is 5.sometihng I think. I think I have all the measurements in the threads, I can look if you like?

Do you have stones you've got your eye on or are you having someone source them for you?
 
Packrat, the stones are being cut by a guy in NYC. If it works out I'll post more info, but for now I'm just keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the mm info. I'll look through your threads again anyway, lots of good stuff there 8)
 
Ooo ooo ooo I hope it works out and if it does I want to hear the deets on the cutter! Prices comparable?
 
packrat|1361411040|3385905 said:
Ooo ooo ooo I hope it works out and if it does I want to hear the deets on the cutter! Prices comparable?
Click to expand...

I'm kind of going through a friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend chain, so I don't think I'll have any details on the cutter, I'm sorry to say :blackeye: I think it's the kind of guy in the diamond district who doesn't deal with the outside world but only within the trade. That's why I'm not sure whether the whole thing will work yet, he doesn't exactly cut a lot of french cuts on a regular basis.
 
Very exciting for you Gemfever!!! and I have to say... I'm just a tad partial to this particular style... hmm... why is that??? :?: :praise:

But in french cuts --- oh la LA!! That will be outstanding!!!

img_1222.jpg

img_3307.jpg
 

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Thanks Circe! :wavey:

Unfortunately, the custom frenchies didn't work out like I planned. Not all hope is lost yet, but the project is again on the back burner. It's almost embarrassing how many times I've cried the French Cut Wolf here! :oops: Hopefully it will all pay off in the end.

But Cool setting! If I wanted to do something in this style, I'd want it done right, which would cost an arm and a leg, I bet...
 
Shoot, I'm sorry it didn't work out!
 
Aw, hon, that stinks! It really is like looking for a needle in a haystack. I'll go back to keeping an eye out for the sort you want, then .... :naughty:
 
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