Sourcing Warmer Tapered French Cut Side Stones

[Kimmy]

I think that I’m finally ready to start a project that I’ve had in mind for a while. I have requested quotes from all of the usual suspects and have narrowed things down. The biggest issue that I seem to be having is sourcing the side stones. My center stone is an L so I don’t want side stones that are too white. I am looking for a suite of tapered French cut stones that will compliment my center stone. The 2 largest stones need to be 7-7.5mm at their widest point and taper down, with each stone progressively getting smaller.

Where can I source these stones? I realize that they might need to be custom cut and I’m hoping that the cost isn’t prohibitive. I have reached out to a bunch of cutters, but haven’t heard back from anyone yet.

 

[newtojewels]

Are the usual suspects unable to source the side stones for you? I would have expected them to arrange that part of the setting.

And wow, 7-7.5mm French cuts? That'll be incredible! I'm commenting here mostly so I can follow this

 

[mustangchi]

I think that I’m finally ready to start a project that I’ve had in mind for a while. I have requested quotes from all of the usual suspects and have narrowed things down. The biggest issue that I seem to be having is sourcing the side stones. My center stone is an L so I don’t want side stones that are too white. I am looking for a suite of tapered French cut stones that will compliment my center stone. The 2 largest stones need to be 7-7.5mm at their widest point and taper down, with each stone progressively getting smaller.

Where can I source these stones? I realize that they might need to be custom cut and I’m hoping that the cost isn’t prohibitive. I have reached out to a bunch of cutters, but haven’t heard back from anyone yet.

I have done a ring with CVB before that had custom cut french cut side stones and she discussed the color she'd request based on my center stone so it seems like this could easily be done the custom cutting route. Not sure about sourcing any other way. Hope that helps.

 

[yssie]

Strongly recommend against this. Several reasons:

1. Sparkle. Have you seen many French cuts in-person? A 7mm+ French cut is liable to look dead as a doorknob. Too few facets to create scintillation in large sizes.

2. Colour. Trying to match face-up colour across a size-graduated suite will be near impossible. Again because they have so few facets - what you'll see face-up is the body colour of the material as concentrated by stone depth. This means the face-up colour will vary according to stone size - even if the exact same material is used for the whole suite.

3. Cost. This type of request will command a specialty pricetag no matter who you go to.

 

[Kimmy]

Are the usual suspects unable to source the side stones for you? I would have expected them to arrange that part of the setting.

And wow, 7-7.5mm French cuts? That'll be incredible! I'm commenting here mostly so I can follow this

VC and LM won’t make the setting since I already have the center stone. SK suggested that I source my own stones because what he has is too white and not large enough. He recommended measurements based on the size of my center stone. DK says that he can source the stones, but his quote for a cast ring came in higher than quotes I’ve received for hand forged. MH is going to get back to me. GOG is going to get back to me.

I asked Dolly and JBG about sourcing stones and they wished me luck, but weren’t able to help. I’ve reached out to Gem Concepts and others and haven’t heard back yet.

 

[Kimmy]

Strongly recommend against this. Several reasons:

1. Sparkle. Have you seen many French cuts in-person? A 7mm+ French cut is liable to look dead as a doorknob. Too few facets to create scintillation in large sizes.

2. Colour. Trying to match face-up colour across a size-graduated suite will be near impossible. Again because they have so few facets - what you'll see face-up is the body colour of the material as concentrated by stone depth. This means the face-colour will vary according to size - even if the exact same material is used for the whole suite.

3. Cost. This type of request will command a specialty pricetag no matter who you go to.

Thank you for these cautions.

1. I have a 4ct+ EC and I’m looking for a setting like LM’s Mon Cherie, VC’s Sophia, or SK’s Audrey. I was between carre cuts and French cuts for the side stones as I really like the art deco styling. My wedding band is carre cut and goes with a large antique EC sapphire.

2. Excellent point about the color. I’ve seen some similar rings on here over the years where the warmer center stone was complimented by the side stones. I worry about trying to source my own stones though.

3. Cost. This is my biggest concern. I originally set out for a smaller stone, but found a larger stone that I really liked. I can only spend so much on setting the stone at this time. I don’t want to waste money setting it in a cheap setting only to reset it again, but I don’t know if it’s worth it to source custom cut stones.

 

[TruLuv858]

Have you tried Diamonds by Lauren @Rockdiamond?

 

[Rockdiamond]

Cost isn’t going to be an issue ( for Jeff Bezos)
Seriously- 7.5mm is huge.
I’ll be watching this thread but I don’t have a lot of optimism that a set like that is do-able for less than $10k. Could be $20.
You’re probably looking at 2cts total or more. Big bucks.
Sorry…..

 

[Kimmy]

Have you tried Diamonds by Lauren @Rockdiamond?

I haven’t. I will reach out. Thank you!

 

[Kimmy]

Cost isn’t going to be an issue ( for Jeff Bezos)
Seriously- 7.5mm is huge.
I’ll be watching this thread but I don’t have a lot of optimism that a set like that is do-able for less than $10k. Could be $20.
You’re probably looking at 2cts total or more. Big bucks.
Sorry…..

That is definitely out of my price range! I have one reasonable quote including stones, metal, and labor. I don’t know how large those stones are because the quote was for the whole ring. I’ll keep y’all posted as I get some more quotes back.

 

[yssie]

Thank you for these cautions.

1. I have a 4ct+ EC and I’m looking for a setting like LM’s Mon Cherie, VC’s Sophia, or SK’s Audrey. I was between carre cuts and French cuts for the side stones as I really like the art deco styling. My wedding band is carre cut and goes with a large antique EC sapphire.

2. Excellent point about the color. I’ve seen some similar rings on here over the years where the warmer center stone was complimented by the side stones. I worry about trying to source my own stones though.

3. Cost. This is my biggest concern. I originally set out for a smaller stone, but found a larger stone that I really liked. I can only spend so much on setting the stone at this time. I don’t want to waste money setting it in a cheap setting only to reset it again, but I don’t know if it’s worth it to source custom cut stones.

You don't want to start your taper at 7mm. Unless your 4ct is the most elongated EC ever cut - or you actually meant 14ct!

I don't know how picky you are but I can say that any vendor who agrees to do this "for reasonable cost" would not be doing it in a way that would make me happy. The face-up colour issues are real and will be impossible to reconcile without legitimate specialty work - any vendor who isn't pointing it out is ignoring it. Which you might be fine with... I wouldn't.

LM, SK, VC, MH, DBL, GOG, DK, etc... have very different aesthetics/methods/finishes. If you love one of those vendors' works you're unlikely to love the others'.

I know I'm being a wet dishrag here. But as someone who has lost money resetting several times - IMO this is not a winning proposition. Just put your stone into a solitaire and take your time thinking about what you want and who you want it made by, and building the piggy bank back up to be able to do this project once, in whatever fashion you deem "best", sans compromise.

 

[Rockdiamond]

LM, SK, VC, MH, DBL, GOG, DK, etc... have very different aesthetics/methods/finishes

In fairness, this is a bit broad. It really depends on the specifics. There are certainly “signature” aspects of different brands/ makers.
But there are many commonalities.
I do agree that anyone offering a “budget” option on a job like this raises red flags.
Also- I didn’t do the math- but I have a lot of faith in @yssie’s point about size.
Starting at 5mm, tapering down to 1.8mm we get a total weight of a little more than 1ct. Big difference from 7mm!
Big difference in price too. But I haven’t heard of inexpensive tapered sets of French Cuts- no matter the color