Star sapphire ring project

[Dreamer_D]

Hello everyone! I’m back again after a long hiatus for a new ring project. I just love sharing that process with this community. This will be my first ever coloured gemstone project!

Last time I was here was back in 2019, when I re-set my precious 1.89ct American Cut into a glorious 3-stone setting made by Caysie of CVB Inspired Design fame. I got the ring in the fall and I never did get around to posting a thread showing off the setting because shortly after, the entire world shut down. Anyway, it’s four years later and I still adore that ring, just for the record. I have kept it pristine and it brings me great pleasure to wear.

You can read more about that saga here:

Hiya everyone! I haven't been around in a while, but I am embarking on a new project so I thought I'd come see if any of my old friends are still around and want to play.

I spent the last couple days lurking in SMTB and checking out some old threads. It's fun to see what's changed and what's stayed the same. I see some new faces, but lots of familiar ones too! Old cuts are as popular as ever, maybe even more so than the last time I was here. I see that some of you have been very very bad girls and acquired very very huge rocks! Is four carats the new two carats? I sure hope so! And I see so much yellow gold! And three-stones galore! I came back at the perfect time

The last few years have been a whirlwind with no time for diamonds. I spent the better part of the last few years renovating a 100 year old house. I guess my love of old things knows no bounds! I also got tenure at my job. And I had a health crisis that I am thankfully recovering from now.

And I still love my George! But she needs a new home. My ring size changed quite dramatically as a result of my illness, and I don't want to compromise my glorious antique setting by stretching her beyond her limits. For the past two years, my dream ring has been languishing in a drawer! C'est dommage! Something must be done.

So I'm going to reset my precious into... drum roll please... a three stone! I'm finally gonna do it! For realsies! And I'm gonna document the process in this thread. Who wants to come along for the ride?

And here is the finished product.



(To be continued)

 

[Dreamer_D]

The last few years have been super weird, of course. But in the midst of it all I continued aging (lol), and somehow managed to really buckle down at work and publish a ton of research. And so this year I get to celebrate a meaningful milestone birthday and celebrate my promotion to the highest rank academia, Full Professor. Just 28% of Full Professors in Canada are women, and I feel very fortunate to join their ranks this summer.

So I thought these occasions needed to be marked. I adore jewellery, but I have only owned one fine piece for the last decade, my three-stone Diamond ring. I think I haven’t felt in the position to really satisfy this hobby for a while. But that is changing So for my second fine piece of jewelry I decided I wanted to create a right-hand ring with coloured gemstones.

I began by thinking I would make a moi et toi style ring, but then I thought I would rather put my whole budget into a single, larger gem. Total shocker, I know.

I was initially open to gem type. I have only owned diamonds up until now, but I have been a keen reader of this forum since I joined PS (Which incidentally was the year I got my PhD and the year I got married. Obviously PS holds an equally important place in my life).

So I knew I could get more size with some types of gems over others. But I eventually narrowed the choice to spinels and sapphires because I wanted this to be a daily wear ring. And I did spend quite of bit of time looking for spinels. But man alive, prices have skyrocketed in the last few years. I really wondered if I could find something in the size I wanted - around 8 x 10 at least.

 

[LilAlex]

And so this year I get to celebrate a meaningful milestone birthday and celebrate my promotion to the highest rank academia, Full Professor. Just 28% of Full Professors in Canada are women, and I feel very fortunate to join their ranks this summer.

Congratulations -- that is a spectacular achievement!

I really wondered if I could find something in the size I wanted - around 8 x 10 at least.

Finding a nice star sapphire is hard -- they tend to be grayish and opaque. But finding a nice, heat-only transparent bright blue sapphire is much more gettable and almost indestructible. My "daily driver" is a small, vivid blue cabochon sapphire. Spouse has a big Deco-era transparent blue sapphire (no star) and it is really fun.

An "8x10 glossy" makes for a nice ring -- that is my target face-up size for a man's ring (Gyspy-style).

 

[Dreamer_D]

And now, pardon me I am a terrible person but this won’t be my first gemstone ring. My original engagement ring was a blue sapphire sigh. Let’s just move on, shall we?

Anyway, about a week ago I was looking through the inventories of the various recommended gem vendors and I happened to be looking through Gary Braun’s sapphire offerings at Finewater Gems. He lists his gems in ascending order by carat weight. And because carat and price are usually closely aligned, I would usually stop scrolling when I hit my budget high-end limit. But that night I guess I kept scrolling, and then I was arrested by this image, hiding in plain view up with the 4ct gems, and not too far above my top budget (just a measly double)



Love this color range, really adore asterism and have since I was a kid. One of my earliest bling memories is bringing a tiny tiger’s eye to school and being somehow convinced that the best place to carry it and keep it safe was in my mouth. Of course, I swallowed it. And we never saw it again!

Plus there’s just something really witchy about star gemstones that I think perfectly suits my approach to middle age.

Anyway, I began researching star gems on PS like mad. I think I read every single thread and post containing reference to the gem at least twice! Thank you all so much for sharing your wisdom and beautiful photos of star sapphires and rubies here, they helped me so much as I evaluated this stone.

Following advice on this forum, I asked Gary for some videos of the gem in different lighting, especially lighting where the star was not visible. I also asked for his opinion about translucency, I asked for a profile photo, and I asked to see a copy of the AGS report.

4.08ct, natural star fancy sapphire, purplish pink in color, no evidence of heat. Gary also said Ceylon origin.



And I felt pretty good about it all. Gary said it had a nice balance of inclusions vs transparency, which allowed for both a very strong asterism and a good perception of depth in the stone, which I know are often trade offs.

I did pause in my consideration for a bit when I saw the profile, because the dome is lower than I had originally wanted and which many of the glorious specimens on this forum possess. I posted a thread here asking about dome height in star sapphires and optics/value. But in the end I thought it might be good because I want a comfortable ring for my right hand, and I thought it would be worth seeing in person so I could evaluate everything about the stone at once.

And I just realized what a Diamond Person (tm) I am evaluating a coloured gemstone for its optical properties and cut

Anyway, I bought it! And it arrived today.

 

[Dreamer_D]

It is a beautiful and interesting stone and my husband and my mother both agree that it is a very mesmerizing little thing in any lighting. It is not trade perfect, there is likely a little more silk in the central area than one might prefer, but that’s a trade off I’m willing to make for the amazing light show this gem puts on The Color is right up my alley and a pit more purple to my eyes than Gary’s photo and the AGL report might have led me to believe. But it has a beautiful glow and depth like a pool… or maybe more like a witches potion brewing in a cauldron

Enough! I know you just want to see pictures! Here you go.



There was one brief moment when the sun broke through the clouds and I managed to snap these shots! Lifting fast photography, mama’s still got it.





There’s even some photos of my solitaire for anyone who is curious, though forgive my dirty diamonds, I should be ashamed

 

[Dreamer_D]

Those were all taken inside with just the sun coming through the window.

And here’s a few in diffuse inside lighting.




And it really goes bananas in my kitchen, which has potlights.



One more by the window. And if I can figure out how to post a video I have one in my kitchen that is a wild light show.

 

[Autumn in New England]

This is one of the most interesting threads I've ever read! So much to absorb. First, BIG congrats on your inspiring achievement. A great day for you and all women (so, thank you).

Second, your 3-stone diamond ring is positively stunning.

Third, your sapphire cab project is going to be a fun one to follow. That 2 star shot is incredible!! I actually had to look up "double cabochon." I first thought they meant a doublet, and I couldn't imagine that being the case. So for anyone like me who doesn't know, it means the bottom of the stone is domed as well, as opposed to flat or concave. Can't wait to hear the ring deets now!

 

[Dreamer_D]

The pot-lights make the colors very strange but the light show is pretty cool.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Even just sitting here with only a lamp for a light source the gem does really interesting things with light. You can see a hint of the star trying to show itself in this video.

You can easily see the cloud of inclusions in this light but the gem doesn’t feel opaque. It reminds me of Dumbledoor’s pensieve with swirling clouds and light inside water.

 

[Starstruck8]

Congratulations on your achievement! That's worth more than any piece of shiny rock.

And welcome to the star stone club! They are magic, aren't they? You have no doubt noticed how the star seems to float above the surface of the stone, and how the dome looks higher when the star is visible than when it isn't. There's a simple explanation for this, which you can work out for yourself (hint: binocular vision). But it still catches me every time, and looks like magic.

Your stone has an exceptionally bright star, as witnessed by the kitchen downlight photo. Do you have a UV light? I suspect from the colour that it may fluoresce red. This wouldn't add to the value, but it would add to the magic.

I look forward to following your setting journey.

 

[MamaBear]

I am so glad you picked out this stone! I had been mulling it over and was a bit disappointed it sold, but now I get to see what you do with it. I love it!

 

[Rfisher]

Very pretty star sapphire @dreamer_dachsie !

Congratulations on your achievement - wow!!

Can’t wait to see where setting this stone takes you

 

[glitterata]

Congratulations, Professor @dreamer_dachsie ! That's a beautiful stone and will make a perfect, mesmerizing ring.

 

[lala646]

Congratulations on your achievement, @dreamer_dachsie! I look forward to following along on this adventure!

 

[Avondale]

I love it. I love the mystical looking colour transition from a stronger to a more misty purple, I love the hexagonal pattern I can see in one of your pictures. It's beautiful and it fits your story perfectly. What other colour fits "witchy" and "magic" better than purple? None, really. Congratulations on your academic achievements, I think this is a wonderful way to celebrate it and I can't wait to see the finished ring.

 

[momofive]

Congratulations! I think your sapphire is magical!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Seeing if I can figure out this multi-quote business on my phone!

Congratulations -- that is a spectacular achievement!

First, BIG congrats on your inspiring achievement. A great day for you and all women (so, thank you).

Congratulations on your achievement! That's worth more than any piece of shiny rock.

Congratulations on your achievement - wow!!

Congratulations, Professor @dreamer_dachsie !

Congratulations on your achievement, @dreamer_dachsie!

Congratulations on your academic achievements, I think this is a wonderful way to celebrate it and I can't wait to see the finished ring.

Congratulations!

Thanks everyone! It will feel more real in the summer when it’s finalized. The president of the University still has to approve it, but the Department and the Dean already gave it the thumbs up so I’ve been told it’s time to celebrate!

An "8x10 glossy" makes for a nice ring -- that is my target face-up size for a man's ring (Gyspy-style).

I think a truly glassy type would be amazing, but from what I’ve seen, way out of budget for this project!

I thought 8x10 was the perfect size but now it seems small I could definitely go waaay bigger in the future.

(More replies later, off to the pool with the fam!)

 

[Kim N]

It's great to see you back, Dreamer, and huge congratulations on your achievement!

 

[Dreamer_D]

This is one of the most interesting threads I've ever read! So much to absorb.

Well now that's high praise! Thanks! I think nearly 25k posts on PS over 16 years and you learn to spin a yarn mayhaps...

Second, your 3-stone diamond ring is positively stunning.

Thanks for this too! I love it very much. I don't think we overlapped during my most active years on PS (which was like 2007 - 2014), but I basically obsessed over a three stone for that whole time and posted about it ad nauseum It is nice to finally have that dream ring on my finger.

That 2 star shot is incredible!! I actually had to look up "double cabochon." I first thought they meant a doublet, and I couldn't imagine that being the case. So for anyone like me who doesn't know, it means the bottom of the stone is domed as well, as opposed to flat or concave.

Thanks for this! I was wondering what that meant too. I think it's a polite way to say "huge caboose", because that's basically what it is, on my stone at least.

And welcome to the star stone club! They are magic, aren't they? You have no doubt noticed how the star seems to float above the surface of the stone, and how the dome looks higher when the star is visible than when it isn't. There's a simple explanation for this, which you can work out for yourself (hint: binocular vision). But it still catches me every time, and looks like magic.

I think magic is absolutely the right word for it. When I was looking for a stone for this project and thinking about the vibe I want and the meaning behind the ring and what it represented, the architype of the crone and witches -- wise women of old -- was very prominent. I think a magic gem like this is perfect symbolism.

I am so glad you picked out this stone! I had been mulling it over and was a bit disappointed it sold, but now I get to see what you do with it. I love it!

I love when PSers buy things I admire online. Not as much fun as when I buy them but maybe a close second

I love it. I love the mystical looking colour transition from a stronger to a more misty purple, I love the hexagonal pattern I can see in one of your pictures. It's beautiful and it fits your story perfectly. What other colour fits "witchy" and "magic" better than purple? None, really.

Agreed, and I love the way you phrased this. Very poetic. The gem is not so huge, so all of these qualities are not as apparent in real life as they are in close up photos of course. But this is why I enjoy gem photography. I haven't done it in years because my old digital camera that I got back in 2007 bit the dust, but I finally got an iPhone 13 this fall and so I'm ready to get back into it.

Congratulations! I think your sapphire is magical!

Thanks so much! Me too.

It's great to see you back, Dreamer, and huge congratulations on your achievement!

So great to see you too Kim! So many old friends are still around. It is fun to be back. And thank you!

Your stone has an exceptionally bright star, as witnessed by the kitchen downlight photo. Do you have a UV light? I suspect from the colour that it may fluoresce red. This wouldn't add to the value, but it would add to the magic.

You know, I think you might be right, just judging by how it looks a softer pink in regular indoor lighting but goes a darker purple in the sun. I don't have a UV light but maybe I will look for one.

If anyone can recommend a place to buy a cheap UV light please let me know!

 

[Dreamer_D]

So setting this puppy feels a little different than my three stone project. That time I really knew what I wanted and chose CVB very early in the process.

This time I have a very clear sense of the energy I want the ring to possess — the powerful feminine, witches and crones, a little foreboding. I plan to wear it on my right middle finger as a reminder of how I no longer have any f*cks to give.

But I feel quite open to designs. And since this is only my second daily wear ring (big sad ), the style field is wide open. I know I want the ring to play nicely with my thee stone (pictured here again as a reminder). Yellow gold, textural and architectural elements, a little playful but mostly serious energy.



I also know I don’t really want to go fully custom. I far prefer to choose a design that the artist has created before but which can be tweaked to fit my stone. I just prefer this option for ease.

I have a few contenders and I’ve made mock ups of each with my stones, and I’ll share those next.

 

[Autumn in New England]

This time I have a very clear sense of the energy I want the ring to possess — the powerful feminine, witches and crones, a little foreboding. I plan to wear it on my right middle finger as a reminder of how I no longer have any f*cks to give.

I like your style, OP!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Both of my main contenders are women artisans who make their rings by hand, which I hope it goes without saying, feels very meaningful to me for this project.

***************

Option 1 is a version of this snake ring by Cheyenne Weil. We haven't seen her much on PS yet, though she is on many people's radar, but I think we will see more of her in the future. Her popularity seems to be juuuust stating to ramp up. I have followed her work and adored it for about 4 years now and always told myself I would get one of her pieces one day. I have corresponded with her briefly to see if her work is within my budget and what her availability is, and she is responsive and easy to communicate with. Fully custom was out of my range, but still, frankly, incredibly reasonable for a hand crafted piece -- she uses the lost wax method to carve her rings. Really one of the core arts at the heart of jewelery and I would love to own such a creation.

Her instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cheyenneweiljewelry/

The design I am coveting, and which Cheyenne thinks can be adapted for my oval cab:




And my attempt at envisioning my star sapphire in this setting:



I love the dark feminine symbology of the serpent and the texture of the scales. Strong boss witch energy here. The patterning reminds me of the engraving on my three stone, and I would likely want it antiqued as well. The downside is that I will have to wait about Five months before I will be able to even get into the queue (she is catching up on her current commissions before opening the list again in the late summer), this is how popular she is becoming. I am not sure I can wait so long (insert sobbing empji). I also wonder if the design might be a little more impactful with a smaller bright gemstone and the delicate snake, and maybe I should wait until my next project for this one.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Option 2 is a creation from Holly Hague, who we are also just starting to hear about on the forum. I actually learned about her here. She also uses an ancient jewelery art in her creations, enameling, which I have long admired and wanted in a ring. This style evokes a different kind of feminine power to me, but one that still feels foreboding to me despite the brightness of the colors; think Galadriel rather than Maleficent. I have also corresponded with her and she was very responsive and easy to communicate with.

Her IG: https://www.instagram.com/hollyhaguedesign/

And some of her pieces:



And a couple mock-ups I made of my star in a couple of her designs (the colors can be totally customized).





I love the architectural lines created by the gold showing between the enamel, which reminds me of the engraved lines on my three stone and the octagonal base of the heads. I also LOVE LOVE the high contrast patterning and colors -- I am well known for my bold, colorful fashion, think a fuschia Stevie Nicks (on my best days anyway ) If you get a chance, watch the videos on Holly's IG because these rings are more delicate and the gold more gold (lol) in the videos. I would also be able to get in the queue for one of these beauties a little sooner. Downside is that I wonder if the style is a little too whimsical, which is not totally the vibe I want. But maybe that can be countered with the right color combos. Maybe the ring is a lighter weight kind of piece than the Weil creation would be, and I'm not sure how that will feel.

 

[Dreamer_D]

For fun, this might be my dream ring though. I have not even asked Caysie for a price because I know it is likely at least double what my budget is and I don't want to even entertain that possibility! Also, I sort of wanted to branch out and try someone new for this ring, just for the sake of owning more works by female artists.

But I still made this image to torture myself: This is the Spring Gulch with diamond pave halo by CVB Inspired design, photoshopped with my star. Dreamy.

Caysie's IG: https://www.instagram.com/cvb.inspired.design/

And please don't even try to convince me to get this, I know what terrible enablers you all can be! My husband informed me that we have to use any other discretionary funds this year for our family vacation this summer, our first *real* vacation maybe ever, and I grudgingly agree. Darn family, always getting in the way!

But still... le sigh.

 

[Starstruck8]

I plan to wear it on my right middle finger as a reminder of how I no longer have any f*cks to give.

Great line! Great attitude!

I like the first concept:

And my attempt at envisioning my star sapphire in this setting:

This suits the witch theme perfectly. Maybe snake's body could be a bit thicker, for proportion with the stone.

For inspiration, here are two threads of snake rings:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-your-snake-jewelry.271185/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/any-fans-of-snake-serpent-jewelry.217364/
I have to say that many of these snakes look too cute for your purpose - you want one that means business.

This is fabulous - dark and glittering, suiting your theme. It might also work with the stone set crosswise.

Not so keen on this. It's great in itself, but maybe too whimsical and decorative for your theme. Also, I'd worry about the durability of the enamel.

 

[Rfisher]

snake ring by Cheyenne Weil

Are we voting? If we are voting this gets my vote hands down. I don’t care about the wait.

The other option is gorgeous though!
Do you want to hear opinions? If you do…….
Your mock ups include bits of coloring very very similar to your star. My concern would be replicating that in real life - and thru shifts. Would it still keep that ‘very much same color family’ thru shifting or still be as complementary in that same way.
I guess I would need to see ‘real life sample’ before I committed to that - if that specific coloring idea were indeed my goal.

 

[momofive]

I have to admit, I’m not a snake person or a witch person, although bewitching is an word I can live with. I love the Caysie setting the best. Sorry it’s out of the running for obvious reasons.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Not so keen on this. It's great in itself, but maybe too whimsical and decorative for your theme. Also, I'd worry about the durability of the enamel.

I hear you and do think about this as well.

I hadn't really dug into the enamel durability issue. I think I should read up more on this. Maybe it is better for an occasional wear piece than daily wear. I am not hard on my jewelry and only wear it to work and nights out, never for active things and never at home.

Are we voting? If we are voting this gets my vote hands down. I don’t care about the wait.

Well I'm not sure about a "vote" per se, since I am not running the Democratic Republic of Rings or anything But I am a certainly interested in what you have to say!

A long wait feels very painful to me right now. But I totally hear you about it being worth it.

The other option is gorgeous though!
Do you want to hear opinions? If you do…….
Your mock ups include bits of coloring very very similar to your star. My concern would be replicating that in real life - and thru shifts. Would it still keep that ‘very much same color family’ thru shifting or still be as complementary in that same way.
I guess I would need to see ‘real life sample’ before I committed to that - if that specific coloring idea were indeed my goal.

I didn't pick these mock ups for the coloring, they were just examples that held ovals lol. So it's just coincidence they match! I do appreciate your point about the shifty color issue. I had been thinking about whether the star and its light play would be too busy combined with the setting, but I hadn't thought about matching/co-ordinating all its color personalities I know that Holly provides mock ups of different color options to clients, but I doubt it would be possible to see "real life" examples of whatever was picked out...

Most gems shift a little don't they? The shift for my stone is not so dramatic. From a purple-pink to a pink-purple. With care I think it would be possible to choose a suite of colors that compliment that shade range.

I have to admit, I’m not a snake person or a witch person, although bewitching is an word I can live with. I love the Caysie setting the best. Sorry it’s out of the running for obvious reasons.

I don't think most people who know me would call me a snake or witch person either! I am referring to witchy stuff more as a metaphor than something literal. However, as a child I did catch and play with garter snakes! This is partly what draws me to the snake design. Totally understand why that isn't everyone's thing though!

I am sorry too that the CVB setting is out of the running. It's gorge.

 

[2Neesers]

Your star sapphire is gorgeous!! Congratulations!
Your design choices are both so beautiful and have very different looks from each other..it will be a tough choice to make!

I know that Holly provides mock ups of different color options to clients, but I doubt it would be possible to see "real life" examples of whatever was picked out...

I have a few rings from Holly and just wanted to mention that she has sample disc of the enamel colors that she can lay out with your stone. Here’s a pictures she sent me for my peridot ring that was inspired by the changing colors of fall leaves, as an example.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Your star sapphire is gorgeous!! Congratulations!
Your design choices are both so beautiful and have very different looks from each other..it will be a tough choice to make!


I have a few rings from Holly and just wanted to mention that she has sample disc of the enamel colors that she can lay out with your stone. Here’s a pictures she sent me for my peridot ring that was inspired by the changing colors of fall leaves, as an example.

Thank you so much for sharing this @2Neezers! I was hoping you might pop by as it was your threads about Holly that led me to her designs. I wonder, how would you describe the comfort of these style rings for daily wear? I haven’t worn a ring with a large face area like this before so I wondered about that.