Stuck, confused and in need of help with saving my e-ring

[sapphiredream]

I am writing to ask for some second-stage help with saving my e-ring/cocktail ring .
(This was a non-traditional choice from the beginning as I never wanted the classic, small solitaire).

There was a first stage which I discussed under "Show me the Bling" a few days ago. There I explained the story behind this ring... but to avoid anything long-winded:

I NEED TO PLACE ANOTHER STONE IN THERE BECAUSE I SIMPLY DO NOT LIKE THIS STONE ANYMORE (8 1/2 by 12 mm yellow beryl) The ring is hefty (12 g) with baguettes on the side.




I spent quite a bit of time with my jeweler brainstorming for options for this project - but it is harder than it looks when quality, and stone size and budget come into consideration.

I looked at 4 lab created sapphires (2 generic and 2 Chatham) but I concluded the Chatham at this size are too expensive for what you end up getting. They were nice - but I could certainly detect the unique quality of "lab-creation" vs. natural...all of that for over 2000$. A smaller one would involve modification of the ring and we don't know what the final product would be.

I had originally hoped to just replace this stone with something better cut and with a friendlier color for no more than a few hundred dollars (1000 at the VERY most); and since my absolute favorite stone is sapphire, I thought lab-created would do.

It's not - not at THIS size, for THIS ring and for the price.

By the time I spend so much on the lab-created stone...mY jeweler feels that to get exactly what I want, I should melt this ring and start anew. Maybe with a smaller lab-created sapphire or even significantly smaller naural sapphire.
I received a few similar suggestions here as well.

Yet I am still not comfortable with the idea of giving up this ring altogether because I LOVE its hefty look and its sentimentall value too. I just don't lkike the stone.
Sure, I am thinking about another piece altogether, separately - but is there any way I can also save THIS ring by replacing the stone and without doing anything to the setting (just replacing!).

Maybe look to have a stone cut to measure? At this point, I am open to any well-cut natural stone that would not turn into powder as soon as I bang it again something.

What could go in there for a few hundred dollars, 1000 maximum?. i do not want to spend much money on this if I am to do a separate one later?

Spinel? Garnet? I am open to anything other than yellow, orange or green stones.

Would anyone be able to suggest any good gem cutters who could help me with something cut-to-measure, from rough?

I do intend to contact Mr. Torraca at www.torraca.net

But if anyone may have other recommendations to maximize odds of success, I would appreciate it.

Thank you so much!

 

[gingercurls]

Hi sapphiredream,

I like your ring very much and think that the setting is lovely. I have had a few stones custom cut, some to fit existing settings and others were cut without size or shape specifications. I have had all wonderful experiences with Jeff White of whitesgems.com Jeff is wonderful to work with and is definitely the most willing lapidary that I have encountered when it comes to asking him to cut a specific size stone.

The size that you are looking to fill is one the larger end of the spectrum. From what I gathered from your post, you are open to blue, purple, pink, and red stones and want to stay under 1000 dollars and the size would have to be 8.5x12 mm. Since you want something that is durable, I would stick to spinels and sapphires. However, at that size and in some of those colors, your budget would have to be far more than 1000 dollars. Stones like zircon, tourmaline, and garnet are less durable but you could find something with one of your desired colors at the necessary size without going over your budget.

 

[gingercurls]

Aquamarine might also be a possibility. It is more durable than garnet and tourmaline but less durable than spinel and sapphire.

 

[sapphiredream]

Aquamarine might also be a possibility. It is more durable than garnet and tourmaline but less durable than spinel and sapphire.

Thank you so much for your post, gingergirls. And thank you for the compliment on my setting.
I am not sure how "in vogue" it looks with today's trends towards thinner settings, split shanks, paves all around, etc but I DO like it.
And no matter how much it makes rational sense to start over - there's something that keeps me from modifying this setting altogether just to replace it with something completely different.
I hate the stone - but love the ring.

From the beginning I had wanted a hefty, chunkier ring with a Euro-shank because I really love how this type of jewelry looks on me.
I am partial to the more "stately", sober, hefty, "no messing-around" look in jewelry . That often means...yes - larger everything.
I really never wanted to get anything on the dainty, smaller side, as the typical e-ring - which is what most mortals can afford.

Trouble is such hefty jewelry comes with VERY expensive stones - if they are to be natural and reasonably well-cut.
That was the reason for picking my modest beryl over 10 years ago. At least I thought it was a natural stone - but the color and cut, I was never excited with.
I bought the stone online - I was young and didn't know all that much at the time.
So I ended up with a non-expensive (but natural!) stone in a very nice setting.

Now I want to fix this and don't know what is the best way to go about it - without losing THIS ring.

Natural sapphires are out of the question at this size.
Lab-created..I saw them...and I have reservations, especially for how much you spend to get the better ones at this size. It almost feels like it's not worth it.
Spinels - they sound very promissing but I am not sure I can get anything well cut at this size, under 1000.

Red stones remain an option as long as they are not...well ...red.
I do not like rubies or anything cherry, stop-light, bright red or girly pink.
It would have to go towards burgundy, crimson, deep red, even purple - "royal" type colors. Deeper and saturated. Anything light, pastel and frilly-pink looks silly and uneventful on me.

I am now leaning towards just finding a very well-cut semi-precious stone - most likely a deep, saturated garnet. Maybe even an amethyst?
Aquamarine is not an option because it is light, powdery pastel - a no, no to me.

My sapphire dream remains but I realize this is going to have to be a different ring - with a smaller natural stone in a hallo/something custom setting (but no Princess Di/Kate Middleton thing, not because the original is not classic and impressive...but because...you know...EPIDEMIC and dignity ).

This is why I don't want to spend too much on the large stone for this ring. I still want it to be something amazingly cut with a good color - and I guess I will just have to be careful not to hit it against anything.

The beryl is an 8 on Moh's and it mine is 100% whole after over a decade despite a few involuntary bangings here and there . Granted, I did not wear it regularly due to the stone color constraints.

A garnet is a 6.5-7.5...so it might be even more vulnerable.

But I am not sure what else could be done.
I sometimes wonder how much a large (8x12) spinel would be.

Thank you again!

 

[corundum_conundrum]

Rhodolite garnet is one of the better bargains at large sizes in the gem world. If you're really careful with the ring, or willing to have it touched up every few years, that could be a cost effective option.

 

[bludiva]

Rhodolite garnet is one of the better bargains at large sizes in the gem world. If you're really careful with the ring, or willing to have it touched up every few years, that could be a cost effective option.

Just popping in to say I like your screen name.

OP, if you're willing to consider a garnet, maybe a tanzanite? Similar hardness and they can be found in some pretty nice blues and purples.

Good luck!!!

 

[sapphiredream]

Just popping in to say I like your screen name.

OP, if you're willing to consider a garnet, maybe a tanzanite? Similar hardness and they can be found in some pretty nice blues and purples.

Good luck!!!

I love the color of BOTH of these stones - deep red, deep blue/purple. That's great.
I have just been advised these are not very good stones to use in rings due to their "softness".

Especially a relatively large and tall one in an open basket like mine.
I suppose bezels are more protected.

If I were to look at such...are there any reputable vendors you'd recommend?
For this ring, they would have to be cut to size, most likely.
Other than Peter Toracca and Jeff White...are there others I should look at?

Also...what are the most reputable sources for natural sapphires?
I am trying to figure out if I could start planning my dream sapphire ring (separate project, smaller stone).

Thank you so much for any vendor recs.
Is there any such thread on this forum with vendor names?

 

[chrono]

I would save up around $3K and then look for the appropriately coloured spinel to fit into the ring. It might have to go as high as $5K for a sapphire. You've spent enough on the setting and you love it, so I would leave it as is. Unfortunately, your budget and stone wants do not align (as most of ours don't as well, so don't feel bad).

 

[cmd2014]

I have large blue topaz cockltail rings that are similarly shaped, were relatively inexpensive, and have held up well. Amethyst (purple or green) might be options too.

 

[SparkliesLuver]

I wouldn't give up on your ring either. I'd just replace the center stone. In all honesty, I'd contact Jerry (of Gemart Services - [email protected]) and ask if he has anything that might work. He's super talented, friendly, and his prices are more than reasonable. I'll keep my eyes out for you though as I love a challenge.

 

[MissyBeaucoup]

Garnets come in a lot of pretty colors and lot of different price points. Maybe you could find a nice one that would last for several years. The rhodolites are really pretty. Then you could save for a sapphire or spinel. It doesn’t sound like the lab created stones have the character you want. I love your unique setting! It looks perfect for you!

 

[alene]

Would blue topaz be an option? Doug at Bespoke Gems seems to always have rough on hand, both irradiated and untreated and may be able to cut something to your specifications: https://www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Gemstones_Rough_Topaz.php

 

[Niel]

I agree topaz is a nice option it won’t last forever but the color is stunning.

Changchun is expensive because of the name. You should not have to pay 2k for a lab stone. You know I think a lab spinel is the way to go, but there are three types of lab stones that can be made to look realistic, and shouldn’t cost near that price.

 

[partysocks]

I wouldn't give up on your ring either. I'd just replace the center stone. In all honesty, I'd contact Jerry (of Gemart Services - [email protected]) and ask if he has anything that might work. He's super talented, friendly, and his prices are more than reasonable. I'll keep my eyes out for you though as I love a challenge.

Another vote for contacting Jerry - I have worked with him on both spinel and sapphire and his pricing is extremely reasonable. I remember that he also tests some cut designs on lab boules and sometimes even has some left over. You may want to ask about going down the synthetic route for the color and size you are looking for and see if he has any suggestions.

 

[737liz]

I'm another vote for a (London blue) topaz. It's a smokey blue with hints of teal. They hold up pretty well (8 on mohs) and the material (irradiated natural topaz) is affordable so you can get a great cut. It should be well under your budget. I wore my emerald cut one for 10 years as a right hand daily ring. Did everything with it on, from dishes to gardening to clay work. It was only mildly scratched up.

 

[sapphiredream]

Would coloured moissanite be an option? I’m not sure where you could get it in the right colours (or if I can even mention that here since it’s a created stone) but it would be hard enough and there are a lot of moissanite cutters/vendors around now. @Rhino might know because of his work with the August Vintage Amora Gems. Apologies if this isn’t allowed.

I have seen moissanite and unfortunately, I didn't like it.

I had so much hope for the lab-created, Chatham sapphire - especially after everything I'd read about its authenticity (chemical composition being identical to the real thing, even prettier colors than most naturals, "impossibility" to tell apart from the real thing unless you have jeweler's tools to detect inclusions.

I was very much open to this option as I don't need to "know" that I have "the real thing" on principle. I just want to see BEAUTIFUL because I do believe there is such thing as "absolute beauty".
(The "beauty/beholder" line only goes so far in my book; more often than not, it reminds me of Miss' Piggy's completion..."and it may be necessary from time to time to give a stupid or misinformed beholder a black eye". )

In this case, I was clearly misinformed because once I saw it - I could easily distinguish the synthetic/created feel of the Chatham and I certainly did not find this look to be "beautiful" or "inspiring".
It was a bit too glassy, perfect, sharp and "planned" compared to the soft, random silkiness of the real sapphire. I had the same sensation as when I compare a new, shiny, perfect planned outdoor mall (they recently built one in my area) - with the streets of European capitals.

It wasn't anything "mental". I could actually detect the difference between real and created, which is particularly visible in large stones set in baskets as opposed to bezels. So much for 100% identical chemical composition.

So now I am looking at ANY semi-precious stone (natural) that could go in there.
I am thinking deep-red-brown garnet or London Blue Topaz, hardness be damned.

If all else fails - I will have to go with plan B: forget about this setting, take baguettes off, melt all, start from scratch and make a natural sapphire ring (with much smaller stone and much larger-than-expected expense).

 

[sapphiredream]

I wouldn't give up on your ring either. I'd just replace the center stone. In all honesty, I'd contact Jerry (of Gemart Services - [email protected]) and ask if he has anything that might work. He's super talented, friendly, and his prices are more than reasonable. I'll keep my eyes out for you though as I love a challenge.

Thank you, Sparklies - for the contact and for the offer to keep an eye out.

I keep getting opposite advice (from others and from my own heart):
A) keep the setting and replace stone.
B) melt and start from scratch with a smaller sapphire (which is my all-time favorite stone) to get exactly what you want.

But yes...I already spent money on this setting...over 1400$ almost 15 years ago.

 

[sapphiredream]

Garnets come in a lot of pretty colors and lot of different price points. Maybe you could find a nice one that would last for several years. The rhodolites are really pretty. Then you could save for a sapphire or spinel. It doesn’t sound like the lab created stones have the character you want. I love your unique setting! It looks perfect for you!

Thank you, Missy!

I hear this about garnets...that are not as "long lasting". What does that mean?
I know they could be more prome to accidents due to softness; but if there are no accidents...do they tarnish? Or expire in some kind of way? I am a bit confused.

I appreciate the compliment on my loyal, hefty custom setting.
I loved it from the beginning, even though I would have probably made it with more tapered sides than what my jeweler ended up making. But compared to the classic dainty solitaire - it's a love for me.

I find it serious and elegant in a non-frilly kind of way. But it's certainly not "on trend" based on what I have seen. It seems a little "stuffy" among the frillier, thinner and more tapered split-shanks, super-delicate paves all around...which sometimes DOES make me wish I could place a sapphire in one of those too .

In fact, that's kind of the plan for now: find a prettier, more wearable but not expensive stone for this one...and start to save for a separate sapphire ring a bit later.

Question is: who needs two fine rings?

I love the idea of "signature" in a ring. In my ideal world, I would only wear one "killer" ring at all times - ALWAYS. Never change. But I don't quite have that "killer" ring yet.

 

[digdeep]

STOP, take a deep breath and step away from the ring!! (Spoken like any cop show......lol!) I'm not sure if you noticed the vendor list at the top of this forum.......contacts for a lot of vendor's there and worth exploring if you haven't seen it.
It also sounds like you are not looking for perfection......so, as was mentioned with Jerry and experimental faceting, then you can ask that of other vendors.
One thing about your option B is that you won't get that ring back...........so please give some more time, ask more vendors about options, and see what comes back to you. It's amazing how things can come together if you back off and allow some time and distance..............

 

[arkieb1]

Contact a few of the guys that cut gemstones and ask them to precision cut a lab sapphire for you the colour you want or a topaz or amethyst or peridot or garnet precision cut if you are after something real that is cheaper. A decent coloured precision cut lab sapphire should be under $1000.00.

 

[sapphiredream]

Would blue topaz be an option? Doug at Bespoke Gems seems to always have rough on hand, both irradiated and untreated and may be able to cut something to your specifications: https://www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_Gemstones_Rough_Topaz.php

Yes! Thank you so much for the contact!

 

[sapphiredream]

I agree topaz is a nice option it won’t last forever but the color is stunning.

What happens to it? Assuming no accident/chipping.
Tarnish? Scratch? Turns ugly just like that - as in the case of man-made stones like CZ-s? I thought this was not the case with natural stones.

Can this be prevented by NOT doing heavy manual work with it (like gardening and washing dishes)? After all, who does these things with a fine ring on?
Then again, I HAVE been known for taking my rings off to get stuff done and leaving them right around the sink somewhere...and this kind of habit begs for losing what you have altogether, not just scratching it.

Hasn't happened yet - but I need more diligence.

 

[sapphiredream]

STOP, take a deep breath and step away from the ring!! (Spoken like any cop show......lol!) I'm not sure if you noticed the vendor list at the top of this forum.......contacts for a lot of vendor's there and worth exploring if you haven't seen it.
It also sounds like you are not looking for perfection......so, as was mentioned with Jerry and experimental faceting, then you can ask that of other vendors.
One thing about your option B is that you won't get that ring back...........so please give some more time, ask more vendors about options, and see what comes back to you. It's amazing how things can come together if you back off and allow some time and distance..............

Makes sense.
Now I am just trying to look at other options for a replacement stone in THIS ring.
Paying almost 2000 $ for a large lab created sapphire would NOT have been a good idea. I am glad I saw and judged for myself.

 

[Niel]

It’s more likely to get chipped when you ding your hand on a desk or a table. It gets abraided. Chips and scratches all the facets.
I have an amazing zircon that on the hand is beautiful but close up is abraided to bits. But I love her anyways and am too lazy to get her repolished- which you can do. Get it repolished- a mini recut- to get it looking fresh. If you’ve been wearing a soft stone in your ring already you can probably see it on your existing stone.

 

[rockysalamander]

Chatham stones are not the best cut out there IMHO. You might reach out to Alternatives Lapidary (Phil Lagas-Rivera, https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlternativesLapidary?ref=search_shop_redirect). He's a precision cutter and has a range of rough (natural and lab-crown) available at a range of prices.

These are not right for you ring, but just showing you a few of his stones.

 

[Niel]

ere’s the color I would want in a topaz. A stone I had set and since sold in some different lighting.

 

[bludiva]

I think the advice to reach out to a few cutters with your wishlist and see what they can come up with is good, they might think of something no one here has mentioned. There's got to be a nice colored stone that would fit the bill and you seem pretty open on the type of stone - let the experts put some thought to it.

 

[sapphiredream]

It’s more likely to get chipped when you ding your hand on a desk or a table. It gets abraided. Chips and scratches all the facets.
I have an amazing zircon that on the hand is beautiful but close up is abraided to bits. But I love her anyways and am too lazy to get her repolished- which you can do. Get it repolished- a mini recut- to get it looking fresh. If you’ve been wearing a soft stone in your ring already you can probably see it on your existing stone.

Does Beryl qualify as a "soft" stone?
Because I don't see any scratches and I've had it close to 15 years.

Then again...maybe it looks so new due to so much ..."non-wear" (avoidance because of the difficult yellow color).

 

[sapphiredream]

ere’s the color I would want in a topaz. A stone I had set and since sold in some different lighting.

Niel,

That is clearly a beautiful Topaz but not exactly the color I have in mind. T
oo close to Turqoise and Aquamarine to my eye.
I would love a very deep but hopefully vibrant London Blue...closer to the classical Saphire.

 

[Niel]

Yes beryl is a soft stone.

If you want a tops to look like a sapphire I fear you might be disappointed they will give you that’s “ fake sapphire” look that those Chatham sapphires had.