Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapphire

[msbibliotecaria]

(Moving this over from the Antique & Vintage forum)

I recently bought a vintage emerald ring with a halo of diamonds. I don't know exactly what time period the ring was made. It is currently a size 7 ring, 10k white gold (stamped 10k) with a small emerald and 14 round diamonds. I think the emerald is about 4mm x 5mm, maybe smaller. It has seen better days for sure and needs a professional cleaning. The emerald is very opaque and has some 'jardin' and probably some nicks. I have not had the ring professionally cleaned or inspected yet. What I really want to do is take out the emerald and put in a sapphire. I would like a violet or lavender colored natural sapphire, but can't find one small enough or the right shape for it. I have a jeweler that I trust, but I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or leads as to where I could go or if this would even be doable?? Maybe just a reputable place where I can source a sapphire candidate (I will be lurking on the list of reputable vendors too....)

What I love the most about the ring is the basket (is that what it's called?) design with all the open scroll work. I've also thought of just replacing the emerald with another emerald, but I'm really crazy about violet sapphires and I think they are more durable for every day use (this is a RHR). First pics are ones I took, the others are from the seller I got it from. Thanks!

 

[sphenequeen]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

Very pretty ring!

Just some food for thought - If you have the emerald removed, the bezel will most likely have to be rebuilt as it is already very worn and they are notorious for becoming chewed up by removing a stone. This is a cost that you are going to want to consider on top of finding your stone.

Also, once you remove the stone, if unbroken, you can better estimate what size of stone will fit in the center.

I love the idea of a lavender colored sapphire in the center. I wish you the best!

 

[chrono]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

I do not know your budget but given that the setting is a bezel, you might not be able to "save" the emerald. Not only that, the requirement of size is extremely stringent with almost no mm size leeway at all, unlike prongs which give you at least a buffer of 0.5 mm. Just more food for thought.

 

[msbibliotecaria]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

Thank you! I do definitely have to take that into consideration, I don't want to damage the ring and I want to maintain what I can of it if I do switch out the stone

 

[NKOTB]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

I would check with Dan Stair. He often has smaller pieces of rough, and his prices are very reasonable. For example, this would have been close: http://customgemstones.com/SAPPHIRE/sa1634.html

I would ask for "the lighter, the better", perhaps, since it will be bezelled.

 

[JewelFreak]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

I wonder if it's possible to set the sapphire with prongs instead of the bezel. You'd get more light into it & possibly have a tad more leeway on size. Since the bezel would be aced by removing the emerald, it's worth asking about. Nice ring & a sapphire would look great!

--- Laurie

 

[partgypsy]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

I wonder if it's possible to set the sapphire with prongs instead of the bezel. You'd get more light into it & possibly have a tad more leeway on size. Since the bezel would be aced by removing the emerald, it's worth asking about. Nice ring & a sapphire would look great!

--- Laurie

when I looked at the setting, and what you are proposing, I was doubtful that it will be worth the effort. First of all the setting is not of particularly high value/rarity, and 2 trying to find a sapphire with those exact dimensions, and 3) would need to pretty much completely damage and then rebuild the bezel setting (cost/doability?)

If use prongs instead of bezel, then the 2 and 3 are less concern, and may be worth pursuing.

If you trust your jeweler, easiest thing is for them to look at the setting, give you a quote to reset in either bezel or prong style, and have them source a gem for you. If you are open to other stones in addition to sapphire (aquamarine, spinel) that will give you more leeway as well.

 

[msbibliotecaria]

Re: Vintage Halo Emerald Ring-Want to replace emerald w/sapp

Thank you so much for all your input! I think I am definitely going to take the ring to my jeweler and see what they tell me. I am open to prongs, as long as they are not sitting too high. And I do love the idea of a sapphire, but I am open to spinel too. Whenever I change out the ring I'll be sure to come back and post Thanks again!!