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What color metal for this "silver" (gray) sapphire?

LilAlex

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Snowed in so it's now or never. Here goes:

Posting an uncolored gemstone in Colored Stones since it seems like the most appropriate place for this oddball sapphire -- until there is an "Uncolored Stones" forum!

I have had this for a few years and would like to bezel-set it in a heavy man's ring (not so much a ring for a heavy man but more of a man's ring that is heavy). It was billed as a "silver" sapphire -- it is pale gray and well cut but not quite precision cut. It is much lighter in tone than any gray spinel I have seen and that's what I like since I am aiming for a monochromatic look and want the metal and stone to match as closely as possible. Too pale and it looks like a diamond (impressive enough in this 10mm x 8mm size range, but not the look I am after) and too dark and it's, well, too dark.

It pulls a tiny bit violet in warm incandescent lighting and a tiny bit blue in daylight but it pretty much has no color. It is unheated Madagascar and was reasonably priced -- about a tenth of a fine blue. It's eye-clean and is pretty good even under magnification (see below).

I have been inclined toward platinum but also like 18K (unplated) palladium white gold which has a hint of brown. The stone has a cooler look and sometimes matching the metal feels correct and sometimes contrasting with the metal feels correct.

Any thoughts...?

All these are with a macro lens and full-frame DSLR shot in RAW at maybe f/13 and with minimal processing apart from white-balance correction.

This is it:

Screen Shot 2023-02-23 at 12.04.30 PM.png


Below, the worst of the inclusions, which are pretty subtle and not eye-visible:

Screen Shot 2023-02-23 at 12.07.32 PM.png


Below are two near-identical views in slightly different color-temperature lights that I then balanced away but they are still subtly different. The ring on the left is platinum with a matte finish that has been, uh, burnished by five years of my adult son's various outdoor passions. The ring on the right is 18K palladium white gold in a brushed finish that is virtually brand new but still manages to look like cr*p at this magnification.

Screen Shot 2023-02-23 at 12.05.36 PM.png


Screen Shot 2023-02-23 at 12.06.04 PM.png


So I am thinking that the metal on the left is the better match for a heavy ring that is entirely this metal plus this stone. These rings are ~ 10 - 11mm "tall" and ~ 25 g and the new ring would be similar scale. Eager to hear what others think. Thank you!
 
I have had this for a few years and would like to bezel-set it in a heavy man's ring (not so much a ring for a heavy man but more of a man's ring that is heavy).

You kill me. :lol-2:

So when I first saw the title of this thread, I thought it was platinum (or plated WG) hands down. But you definitely made a case for the subtle warmth of unplated WG with this particular gray (14k will be whiter/18k more yellow). If pressed though, I'd still opt for the platinum. I just don't think you can beat that icy, grayscale look. As we've discussed before, I love the look of black rhodium finishes at well, but hate the maintenance. When are you setting this? Do you know which jeweler you'll use? I'm psyched to see you commission a new piece! Beautiful stone!!

ETA: Wait, you said 18k palladium WG! And that's a whole different ballgame... less yellow than unplated traditional WG. I like it way better, actually.

metal-comparison.png
 
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Platinum would be a successful subtle meld, but I'd still choose the Palladium white gold because I prefer the small contrast it provides.
 
What about grey gold?
 
OK, so rose gold it is, @mellowyellowgirl! Can't believe I missed that.

Thank you, @2Neezers, @ItsMainelyYou, @CBianco, @Autumn in New England , and @Pinkmartini87 -- you have perfectly highlighted my dilemma! "Matching" vs "contrasting." I set a warm stone in green gold without a minute of self-doubt and no comment whatsoever from the metalsmith. It just felt right at the time and rose gold seemed too "try-hard." Not sure why I am struggling with this one. Maybe because I have had this stone since before the pandemic so that must've been what the late '90s?

@Autumn in New England, yes, I love the brown tint to the 18K unplated palladium white gold. I don't want the "mirror white" of rhodium plating -- I need the softer, more broken-in look of a matte gunmetal finish. I want the stone to be the only sparkle. Ideally it would be a slightly darker, more leaden alloy -- but I imagine lead is a poor choice. (EDIT: I have a nickel allergy so that narrows some of the options.)

And, @Autumn in New England, I was thinking of Gary Roe for the ring -- I definitely like a hand-carved look. But to bug him and then not capitalize on his incredible engraving skills seems kind of wrong. Then again, I've heard it said that a simple ring can be the hardest to make (nowhere and no way to hide the mistakes).

Are there other gray-er metals? More importantly, would someone who can make a perfect bezel be willing to work in that metal? The most technically skilled folks seem to have their preferred "canvas."

@2Neezers, I had not seen any before or since. It just caught my eye in an IG post and I did not need to worry (too much) about the accuracy of the color representation! Maybe it's like gray spinel and there are buckets of them out there that beginners use to hone their faceting chops. I even felt a little silly initially coveting a "silver" sapphire (as in "wait, is this like a champagne diamond?!") -- but it does have a crisp, metallic look and does not look like a dull gray lump.
 
What about grey gold?

Interesting! I know they make a nice vodka.

Sounds like that is gold + palladium and/or iron. That could be really cool -- especially with this stone. Anyone have experience with this...? As long as there is no nickel...
 
I like the palladium for the contrast, but I also like the platinum if you want the cooler look.
 
Interesting! I know they make a nice vodka.

Sounds like that is gold + palladium and/or iron. That could be really cool -- especially with this stone. Anyone have experience with this...? As long as there is no nickel...

I have a three-stone grey spinel ring in it. I’ll pull it out tomorrow and take some pics to try to give you an idea (though my spinels are darker than your stone). DK has made a few pieces with it.

(P.s. I’ve only ever had Grey Goose, on the vodka front)
 
Amazing sapphire. Love the -color, as in lack of color. But it is colored. Such a subtle stone. I love this brushed satin platinum from Sholdt. Might really contrast well and set off your stone. 93F78E85-9576-435A-91FD-5D7AA9E2B598.png
 
I would go for plated white gold and keep the metal as shiny as possible.

Platinum would be my other choice, again keeping it as shiny as possible without a patina being developed.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK :))
 
Platinum. Platinum all the way through. And not just because it's my preferred metal alongside plated white gold, but because in the pictures with this stone it just looks like a perfect match.

Besides, if you want a heavy ring, platinum is the metal that will provide. Love the weight, gold can't give you that same feeling.
 
Left - it brings out the brightness in the stone.
 
Plated shiny WG… as white as possible for contrast but that’s just me. I think the right metal is the one that you prefer.
 
Of the options in your picture, I vote platinum. But I second @mellowyellowgirl 's suggestion of considering rose gold. Pink + grey is a beautiful combination. And the right rose gold would still very much suit a men's ring. My husband tried on a subtle rose gold band when we were shopping for wedding rings, and even he agreed it looked good on him (although we ultimately went with platinum).
 
Well we should all get together next year for the world's quietest Super Bowl party! "I think both teams are very nice!" :P2 JK!

Thank you, @CircularBrilliant, @icy_jade, @chrono, @Avondale, @dk168, @Mrsz1ppy, @momofive for the additional input -- stronger opinions there toward the end!

I had a plated WG one that was the type of "featureless" ring I'm shooting for and looked kind of like a napkin ring. It was all funhouse reflections and just too much in a bigger size (whereas it might be great on a skinny shank).

Interesting to see the up-vote for rose gold, @CircularBrilliant. I can't quite picture it and worry it might look a little more Arts Festival than timeless elegance. (I am neither, IRL, but can always aspire!). I could see one daughter loving it for herself for sure!

Leaning toward platinum -- with a matte or even brushed finish as suggested by @Mrsz1ppy. But waiting to learn more about gray gold, @NKOTB -- there is remarkably little about it out there (?!). I don't want anything too dark because I'm hoping to avoid what I would call a "self-consciously masculine" ring -- lots of sharp creases and mixed materials with that high-tech/industrial look. Like: "Now there's a ring a real man would wear!"
 
I need the softer, more broken-in look of a matte gunmetal finish. I want the stone to be the only sparkle.

I get the look you're going for and I'm right there with you! I think the monochromatic aesthetic, with a satin finish to the gold/plat and metallic luster to the gem, is really going to be a rich look. I'm confident that if you contact Gary, you'll know whether it's a good fit right away by his enthusiasm for the project or lack thereof (which I highly doubt). Even something simple, with the right jeweler, can have a subtle or signature flair that takes it to the next level. Intricate designs can hide a lot with regard to craftmanship. There's no distraction from the "bones" of an unfussy design. So I wouldn't hesitate to shoot high in that regard!

I have no emoji that applies, so here's a transformer.
robotemoti.gif
 
Hi,

I had to chime in too. It is a beautiful stone, really. The platinum would be my choice, but platinum does scratch easily, hence the condition of your sons ring. I like shiny, unless the bezel is wide: then it might be too much. I think it will be a stunning ring. Good work!

Annette
 
Here is an example from Thesis on Insta...just to make it harder :lol: It looks like a sand finish, rose gold.
Opera Snapshot_2023-02-24_134810_www.instagram.com.png
 
Here is an example from Thesis on Insta...just to make it harder :lol: It looks like a sand finish, rose gold.
Opera Snapshot_2023-02-24_134810_www.instagram.com.png

Mainely... is a sand finish (new to me) similar to a stardust finish? I own and love the latter! It's definitely a bit flashier than a matte/satin/brushed finish, so LilAlex would need to decide if that's his thing. But my issue with it for a ring, as much as I adore the look, is that the finish doesn't wear well. It shows every scuff, scratch, and mar, and dulls fairly quickly, sadly. Just something to consider! But lawd is that pretty!!
 
I am team warm gold, be it yellow or rose! Or there is also a green gold which sounds fun. But I did set a grey-toned diamond in a 14k yellow gold signet style chunky ring, DK "warmed it up" and made it what he called an antique yellow gold? It was much richer of a tone than my other 14k pieces. Here's a video of it.

 
I think the color choice depends on what you’re trying to do.

But honestly…I’d do both. a thin lip of platinum with the palladium WG (or this mystical grey gold Leen Heyne uses) or just platinum prongs would be epically delicious

These are enamel but you get the idea

I will add, a platinum chunky ring will be very heavy…

D0A01B9F-4431-4417-978E-6464A86DB377.jpeg8BE1FC63-D6B3-4DAD-9045-9775E0A79FDB.jpeg07A68540-D43A-4B18-AC4E-0389DB14B542.jpeg
 
I think either platinum or palladium white gold works color wise. The platinum better matches the shade of the sapphire where light is reflected, and the palladium white gold better matches the shadowed parts. I'd personally pick platinum because of how unfussy it is as a ring metal. I pretty much always prefer platinum to white gold.
 
Awesome sapphire! Now I too want one.

It's hard to tell unless I see the gem against my skin tone. You like Hemmerle, I think that you've said it once?



3-rings-comp.jpg

iron-diamond-ring.jpg

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Tiffany & Co.

02_GRP_LEMENS_v1_LH_021621_cv2-1024x751.jpg
 
Mainely... is a sand finish (new to me) similar to a stardust finish? I own and love the latter! It's definitely a bit flashier than a matte/satin/brushed finish, so LilAlex would need to decide if that's his thing. But my issue with it for a ring, as much as I adore the look, is that the finish doesn't wear well. It shows every scuff, scratch, and mar, and dulls fairly quickly, sadly. Just something to consider! But lawd is that pretty!!

Oops, I don't actually know the trade name of the finish, I just called it 'sand' because that's what it looked like to me!:lol:
Good point about maintenance of finishes.
 
It's hard to tell unless I see the gem against my skin tone. You like Hemmerle, I think that you've said it once?

Agreed; in my case, I don't think I have any skin tone. :P2

Yes, I am a huge Hemmerle fan and have a boatload of inspo photos but not the six-figure budget. All their stones are 15x12mm or so (6 - 12 cts, IIRC).

I did see that new Tiffany line (maybe via a post here) -- the one on the far right is a perfect "copy" of the ring we had made 5+ years ago. This was that banged-up ring, above (the platinum ring on the left in my original photos) on my son's finger hot off the bench:

Screen Shot 2023-02-24 at 8.31.21 PM.png


And I would probably be looking to do something like this (below) with the gray sapphire. This is my warm-toned chrysoberyl ring in green gold:

Screen Shot 2023-02-24 at 8.35.31 PM.png
 
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