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Dumb Question(s)

I'm not a fan of the cut precision on these.

This is more like what I'd recommend.


Thank you! This one looks beautiful. Unfortunately, I need to stay within the 2.69-2.75 range. As silly as it sounds, I really don't want to go any larger. I really appreciate you taking the time to send this over. Is there something I should be looking for with regards to cut precision? I'm still very new to this so it's still difficult for me to decipher what's good vs bad.
 
Thank you! This one looks beautiful. Unfortunately, I need to stay within the 2.69-2.75 range. As silly as it sounds, I really don't want to go any larger. I really appreciate you taking the time to send this over. Is there something I should be looking for with regards to cut precision? I'm still very new to this so it's still difficult for me to decipher what's good vs bad.

If there are varied black triangles between the base of the arrows, it's an indicator of lack of cut precision.

What is your budget?
 
Thank you! This one looks beautiful. Unfortunately, I need to stay within the 2.69-2.75 range. As silly as it sounds, I really don't want to go any larger. I really appreciate you taking the time to send this over. Is there something I should be looking for with regards to cut precision? I'm still very new to this so it's still difficult for me to decipher what's good vs bad.

Have a look at these...for the ones that you can.
You'll need to ask for videos for diamonds that don't have one.







 
Have a look at these...for the ones that you can.
You'll need to ask for videos for diamonds that don't have one.








Wow! Thank you! That’s so kind - especially since you’ve helped so much already. Thank you.
 
As @yssie alluded to, you actually want less cut precision in your case to break up the standard round facet pattern to have smaller and less bold flashes. IMO going to 60/60 more brightness cuts with high cut precision would not be enough to make it look substantially different.
 
As @yssie alluded to, you actually want less cut precision in your case to break up the standard round facet pattern to have smaller and less bold flashes. IMO going to 60/60 more brightness cuts with high cut precision would not be enough to make it look substantially different.

Got it! Thank you for the reminder!
 
Is it possible lab diamonds aren't cut as poorly as natural diamonds? I swear I've looked through hundreds of options and haven't found an overly splintery diamond yet. Who knew it would be this hard finding a poorly cut diamond? :lol:
 
Like Jax and Karl said - this is how well cut rounds behave! However, "well cut" is in itself a definition - that prefers certain characteristics that result in these behaviours. If you don't like the behaviours, but you want to keep the round shape, you need to look outside the box of what the industry considers "well cut".

Here's a stone that's a good match for your asks. Favours brightness (white light returns) across different lighting conditions, more "tub of glitter" sparkle and twinkle than big bold flash. Ignore colour/clarity/size/fluor - just look at the faceting. See how all the facets in the stone (virtual) facets look pretty small and splintery and random? (Screenshot is at slight tilt from face-up.)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...arat-g-color-vs2-clarity-good-cut-sku-8174751
1708885869953.png

Here's a stone that's the exact opposite of what you want. Again, itnore colour/clarity/etc - the virtual facets are large and the patterning is very symmetric. This is a stone that will go dark in sunlight whilst those giant facets flash. (Screenshot is at slight tilt from face-up.)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...-color-vs1-clarity-very-good-cut-sku-19884249
1708885911501.png

@yssie The diamond below is not as splintery as the one you show here (I'm actually having a hard time finding this in a lab diamond) -- however, it does fall into the "brighter" category in Garry's cut chart. In your opinion, do you think this would face up bright/white and less fiery? I'm ok with a little fire, but my main goal is to find something that faces up white in most light sources and doesn't go dark. Thanks again for your time!

Option 3 -- 2.74 / G / VS1
Table - 60
Crown Angle - 33
Pavillion Angle - 41.3
Depth - 60
Size - 9.09 - 9.12 X 5.46 MM
 
I posted some options on the other thread “help for a round brilliant.” They look nothing like what we’d normally recommend. The two of you seems to be seeking similar qualities.

Don’t be offended by my list. I’m just thinking outside the box for you two lol

 
I posted some options on the other thread “help for a round brilliant.” They look nothing like what we’d normally recommend. The two of you seems to be seeking similar qualities.

Don’t be offended by my list. I’m just thinking outside the box for you two lol


Oh gosh, not at all! Thank you for sharing! I really like some of the ones you selected. To your point, I think I'm going to have to purchase a few to look at in person. It's nearly impossible to find one that encompasses all the "standards" I'm looking for -terrible cut (hilarious) but specs according to Garry's chart. I could be passing on visually perfect ones (for me) in the elimination process. Out of curiosity, what do you think about the one I posted (option 3)? Do you think this will go dark as well? It's very close to Garry's chart which makes me think it will lean more bright even with a more symmetrical cut.

I sound like a nut job.
 
Could I be any more annoying? Here is the HCA reading for the stone I found (option 3). Again, it leans more bright according to Garry's chart but is "good" for scintillation and very good for fire. I'm so confused.Screenshot 2024-03-05 at 3.45.54 PM.png
 
Since you already purchased once based on stats and have a stone that doesn’t behave according to your bright sunlight environment, I doubt anyone can predict anything off stats. I think videos annd IRL viewing are the way to go.

Do you have a video of Option 3?
 
Oh that just took me to their webpage. Can’t even find a search option. Can you upload a video to Imgur?

Sorry about that! Does this work for you? Any thoughts on the weird HCA score?

Option 3 -- 2.74 / G / VS1
Table - 60
Crown Angle - 33
Pavillion Angle - 41.3
Depth - 60
Size - 9.09 - 9.12 X 5.46 MM
 
I’m no expert AT ALL … but that stone seems to have potential for you. Do they have a return policy?

As for as HCA score - I wouldn’t sweat it. Those are general tools. You’re seeking something very specific. My cousin likes to say, “Generalities are only generally applicable.”

It’s such a synchronicity that you and @Runningmama are searching for similar qualities at the moment. A great lesson in “we like what we like,” especially when accounting for different environments. Someone in Seattle will see different behavior in their diamond than someone in Phoenix.
 
Thanks for bringing this topic up on PS!

Recently my daughter got a 4c earth mined oval and it looked bright and white in her kitchen and I looked at my RB and it looked dark in the same lighting!!!
I also bought a 3.01 antique elongated cushion that also has an amazing ASET, and wear it in a stone holder next to my RB...results??? This cushion is almost always white and bright in all lighting vs this MRB!!!

I have to say I used to think this too. I thought my lab looked grey in more lighting conditions than my earth mined. So i wore them together for a day, and it seems like i was wrong. I think it was just because the lab was so much bigger I noticed it more. I tested it with a few earth mined diamonds I have.

That doesnt explain your experience with your daughters 4 ct earth mined and your lab.

Has anyone else noticed their lab looks grey in more lighting conditions than just direct bright sun?
 
I’m no expert AT ALL … but that stone seems to have potential for you. Do they have a return policy?

As for as HCA score - I wouldn’t sweat it. Those are general tools. You’re seeking something very specific. My cousin likes to say, “Generalities are only generally applicable.”

It’s such a synchronicity that you and @Runningmama are searching for similar qualities at the moment. A great lesson in “we like what we like,” especially when accounting for different environments. Someone in Seattle will see different behavior in their diamond than someone in Phoenix.

That's great to hear! I'm able to return this if need be - thank goodness! Thank you for taking a look and responding to the HCA question. What a perfect quote!

It feels quite apropos! It's nice to know I'm not the only one on PS who wants a less than ideal diamond. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

Thank you again for all your help - I'm always so grateful for how generous everyone is with their time on this forum. It's such a wonderful community!
 
I have to say I used to think this too. I thought my lab looked grey in more lighting conditions than my earth mined. So i wore them together for a day, and it seems like i was wrong. I think it was just because the lab was so much bigger I noticed it more. I tested it with a few earth mined diamonds I have.

That doesnt explain your experience with your daughters 4 ct earth mined and your lab.

Has anyone else noticed their lab looks grey in more lighting conditions than just direct bright sun?

Sometimes I feel like mine leans more grey. It's a F in color which may have something to do with it. For this next diamond I'm dropping down to a G in hopes that tones down the "coolness."

I think the issue with my diamond stems from my previous earth mined diamond. It wasn't perfect and I was used to seeing it face up white in all light settings. So, when I purchased a larger near perfect diamond, it was so far in the opposite direction, its natural qualities didn't feel "right" to me. Maybe that's what @ariel144 is experiencing too? That said, I don't think mine has gone dark in my kitchen so that may be something entirely different!
 
Compared a natural I color vs a lab I color in similar size and cut for close to a year and they behaved exactly the same way.

Rounds darkening in strong lighting (direct sunlight, spotlighting, etc. that highlights fire) is an indication of strong light return. Smaller or less well cut rounds don’t darken as much because the facets are smaller and return less light. Other cuts typically don’t darken as much because they don’t return as much light.

You can test this with a flashlight and some paper towels. Start in a place with diffused lighting where the diamonds look white. Point the flashlight directly at the diamonds and they will darken and show off fire. Now cover the flashlight with a paper towel (dim/diffuse the light source) and the diamonds will not be as dark and show off less fire. Increase the layers of paper towels and the diamonds will eventually look white again. If you have smaller melee stones or other cuts next to a round you’ll see that they’ll look white again with less layers of paper towels.

If you want your diamonds to darken less, start by dimming or diffusing the light sources. If you want new diamonds that don’t darken as much in all environments, look for ones that don’t return as much light. Smaller facet sizes through higher facet count or less cut precision, or lower light return through cut designs with longer light paths or more included material are all possibilities.
 
@0-0-0, just love your posts!

Is this an instance where you actually want pavilion twist?

Aren’t the number of facets on a modern round brilliant set? How can you get smaller facets without adding more facets?

Time to go buy some diamonds, a flashlight, and a bunch of paper towels lol
 
@0-0-0, just love your posts!

Is this an instance where you actually want pavilion twist?

Aren’t the number of facets on a modern round brilliant set? How can you get smaller facets without adding more facets?

Time to go buy some diamonds, a flashlight, and a bunch of paper towels lol
In well cut H&A rounds, the size of each individual virtual facet returning light is essentially maximized. In less precisely cut rounds, the facets returning light typically get broken up into smaller virtual facets, and look more splintery as a result. This effectively both increases the virtual facet count and decreases the size of each. This may be enough to reduce the overall amount of light return enough to reduce the amount of darkening in stronger, more direct lighting (depends on the lighting). To substantially increase the number of virtual facets you’ll need other cut designs with higher virtual facet count to reduce the size of each facet further. That’s why other cuts are necessary for a more glittery look.
 
In well cut H&A rounds, the size of each individual virtual facet returning light is essentially maximized. In less precisely cut rounds, the facets returning light typically get broken up into smaller virtual facets, and look more splintery as a result. This effectively both increases the virtual facet count and decreases the size of each. This may be enough to reduce the overall amount of light return enough to reduce the amount of darkening in stronger, more direct lighting (depends on the lighting). To substantially increase the number of virtual facets you’ll need other cut designs with higher virtual facet count to reduce the size of each facet further. That’s why other cuts are necessary for a more glittery look.

This is so fascinating. Thank you for taking the time to explain this further!
 
This is so fascinating. Thank you for taking the time to explain this further!

Hi @0-0-0 In your opinion, would the below diamond produce more brilliance than fire and be less prone to darken in direct sunlight? I saw the diamond you posted on the other thread and this has a similar crown angle but a deeper pavilion and depth. Thank you!

Option 3 -- 2.74 / G / VS1
Table - 60
Crown Angle - 33
Pavillion Angle - 41.3
Depth - 60
Size - 9.09 - 9.12 X 5.46 MM
 
Hi @0-0-0 In your opinion, would the below diamond produce more brilliance than fire and be less prone to darken in direct sunlight? I saw the diamond you posted on the other thread and this has a similar crown angle but a deeper pavilion and depth. Thank you!

Option 3 -- 2.74 / G / VS1
Table - 60
Crown Angle - 33
Pavillion Angle - 41.3
Depth - 60
Size - 9.09 - 9.12 X 5.46 MM

PA too steep and pavilion in uneven - quite a bit of light leakage under the table, which will reduce brilliance and make it look a bit dull and sleepy.
 
PA too steep and pavilion in uneven - quite a bit of light leakage under the table, which will reduce brilliance and make it look a bit dull and sleepy.

What a bummer. I can’t seem to get this right. I appreciate you looking!
 
What a bummer. I can’t seem to get this right. I appreciate you looking!

@DejaWiz For my education, what is the ideal pavilion I should be looking for? These specs align with Garrys chart (less fire/bright to more brightness) so I’m curious why this one won’t perform as I would have expected it to. What does light leakage look like? Is this the dullness you’re referencing?
 
I don’t think there’s enough wonkiness in it to make the light return substantially different. In general, deeper combos have the potential to show more leakage and shallower combos have the potential to show more obstruction.

The smaller 34/40.7 round shows no leakage under the table and the larger 35.8/40.7 round shows a bit of leakage under the table on tilt. The difference is most noticeable in diffused lighting (5/9).
 
I don’t think there’s enough wonkiness in it to make the light return substantially different. In general, deeper combos have the potential to show more leakage and shallower combos have the potential to show more obstruction.

The smaller 34/40.7 round shows no leakage under the table and the larger 35.8/40.7 round shows a bit of leakage under the table on tilt. The difference is most noticeable in diffused lighting (5/9).

This is such an elementary question, but is the reflection of the iPhone case on the larger diamond the light leakage you’re referring to? I’m still very much learning and my eye isn’t as well trained as some of the others! Knowing that, would the diamond above produce more brilliance and less fire even given how deep it is? I guess I’m still struggling to understand the right ratios for the combo I’m looking for.
 
IMO if you want a standard round to darken less in stronger more direct lighting, it’s less about the right numbers to look for and more about the cut precision. Most commonly available standard round proportions with good cut precision are going to darken in stronger more direct lighting and show fire. That’s what the cut is designed to do!

Essentially what you are asking for is a poorly executed standard round cut to increase the chances that it would darken less in stronger more direct lighting. To get to that point you would need poor cut precision to break up the standard round facet pattern, and avoid too much obstruction or leakage that would make it dull and lifeless.

Light leakage is when you can see straight through the stone. Essentially facets that are not returning any light, highlighted in yellow. Tiny bits of leakage that move around as the diamond tilts can add contrast, bigger stationary areas can make the diamond look dull and lifeless.
IMG_2331.jpeg
 
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