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Seeking Advice for Lab OEC: SW cutters vs IDJ vs Parks Antique

Nm06003

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
26
Hey everyone,

I’ve been a long-time lurker on these forums and could really use your help in making a decision. I’m in the market for a lab-grown OEC for an anniversary ring, aiming for something between 2.75-3 carats with a budget of $3k for the stone.

Here are the options I’m considering:

Option 1: Purchase a lab-grown round brilliant (MRB) and send it to SW cutters. I've seen positive feedback from other PS'ers, but it means committing to the one stone they cut.

Option 2: Purchase a lab-grown OEC with IDJ. The advantage here is potentially exploring multiple OEC options, but I'm unsure about their inventory, the cutters they source from (i.e., are they as good as SW?), and the range of quality available.

Option 3: Exploring Parks Antique OEC selection. While he sells OECs regularly, the disadvantage is no customer service and having to buy what becomes available on his IG.

My main priority is finding a well-cut and sparkly stone. Since I’m not too familiar with OEC cuts, I’m relying more heavily on the vendor’s expertise. I do have some reservations about options 2 and 3, particularly regarding their sources and the expertise of the cutters. Though FWIW, I’ve had really positive experiences with past purchases from IDJ, but they’ve always been with MRB.

I’d really appreciate any advice or any other recommendations you could share on these options!
 

Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
I mean, I am biased because I have done 2 recuts with Southwest.

I would say absolutely go for that option, but it may come in a little over budget if you do that.

To me, the advantage is you get to pick your faceting pattern and specs and your body color. I just had them do one for me and i have never seen a diamond I loved more. Before this I would say there were a bunch of "I wish that was mine" diamonds, but I do not feel that way at all now. I got the body color I wanted (I wanted a tiny touch of warmth which most lab OECs don't have), I got the faceting I wanted, I got the puffy crown height i wanted... Its everything I wanted with zero compromise. I got to control the process.

Another option would be Jon at Distinctive gems. Again, a bit over budget but they're gorgeous. He does several made to order patters of OEC
https://www.distinctivegem.com/prod...n-lotus-cut-private-reserve-lab-grown-diamond
 

mayaINaU

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 1, 2021
Messages
734
Hey everyone,

I’ve been a long-time lurker on these forums and could really use your help in making a decision. I’m in the market for a lab-grown OEC for an anniversary ring, aiming for something between 2.75-3 carats with a budget of $3k for the stone.

Here are the options I’m considering:

Option 1: Purchase a lab-grown round brilliant (MRB) and send it to SW cutters. I've seen positive feedback from other PS'ers, but it means committing to the one stone they cut.

Option 2: Purchase a lab-grown OEC with IDJ. The advantage here is potentially exploring multiple OEC options, but I'm unsure about their inventory, the cutters they source from (i.e., are they as good as SW?), and the range of quality available.

Option 3: Exploring Parks Antique OEC selection. While he sells OECs regularly, the disadvantage is no customer service and having to buy what becomes available on his IG.

My main priority is finding a well-cut and sparkly stone. Since I’m not too familiar with OEC cuts, I’m relying more heavily on the vendor’s expertise. I do have some reservations about options 2 and 3, particularly regarding their sources and the expertise of the cutters. Though FWIW, I’ve had really positive experiences with past purchases from IDJ, but they’ve always been with MRB.

I’d really appreciate any advice or any other recommendations you could share on these options!

Try Debebians: https://debebians.com/products/239c...6&_sid=d39c9d36b&_ss=r&variant=40508116009057
Delicate Gem: Ivy and Rose: https://ivyandrose.com/products/2-c...d-diamond-certified-e-vs1-loose-vintage-style
 

Nm06003

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
26
I mean, I am biased because I have done 2 recuts with Southwest.

I would say absolutely go for that option, but it may come in a little over budget if you do that.

To me, the advantage is you get to pick your faceting pattern and specs and your body color. I just had them do one for me and i have never seen a diamond I loved more. Before this I would say there were a bunch of "I wish that was mine" diamonds, but I do not feel that way at all now. I got the body color I wanted (I wanted a tiny touch of warmth which most lab OECs don't have), I got the faceting I wanted, I got the puffy crown height i wanted... Its everything I wanted with zero compromise. I got to control the process.

Another option would be Jon at Distinctive gems. Again, a bit over budget but they're gorgeous. He does several made to order patters of OEC
https://www.distinctivegem.com/prod...n-lotus-cut-private-reserve-lab-grown-diamond

Yes, I've seen your thread and love your OEC, so I appreciate your input! My gut has been saying this might be the way to go, especially since I want a warmer stone too.

Do you have any advice for sourcing a stone?
Ashley's only recommendation was something that has a table of 57% or lower (to minimize loss of carat weight).
 
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Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
Yes, I've seen your thread and love your OEC, so I appreciate your input! My gut has been saying this might be the way to go, especially since I want a warmer stone too.

Do you have any advice for sourcing a stone?
Ashley's only recommendation was something that has a table of 57% or lower (to minimize loss of carat weight).

Advice: look at 10,000 stones and pick the one that speaks to you. I mean, i wish i was kidding, but i was looking for like a week and just looked at TONS of diamonds.

First advice: I went WAY OVERBOARD on the size on purpose. I wanted 5 carats in the end, heck I would have been ok with 4.75, and i bought 6 carats.

The tall puffy crown was super important to me and i wanted to give Ashley as much to work with as possible. I had to keep repeating to him "Do not try to preserve carat weight AT ALL, the tall puffy crown is MORE important" because 9,999 out of 10,000 want to preserve carat weight so i needed him to REALLY hear me on the crown being more important that the carat weight. He really gets tunnel vision on the carat weight, i needed him to REALLY understand that my number one criteria was the crown.

For me, I searched on loosegrown, I had (I THINK) 56 table or less (I did this from 12/28-1/3 so i may have just done less than 57, i dont exactly remember now since it was a wile ago but the one i chose was 56) and I am not kidding i must have looked at 10,000 diamonds, and it's annoying because you have to click on them, loosegrown doesnt have a preview.

The VVS1 or VVS2 diamonds did actually seem clearer to me, but i looked at VS2 through IF. I mean, even if you look at 100 diamonds straight one after another you'll start to see the crispness and color too.. LOL

The body color was most important to me, it's SO HARD!!! 99% of them looked somehow grey to me, like they all look clear, but my eye picked up a grey tone. This one I picked didn't have that grey undertone, it looked like a yellow undertone. Thats what made me pick it, was that warmth my eye perceived.

Since I went WAY overboard on weight, i didnt worry about the cut at all. If I was worried about carat weight I might have had to consider the cut, but it was easier to get bigger and not worry at all about the cut.

I went CVD because it was cheaper and I hated that most of the cheaper HPHT had blue nuance, so i just didn't even bother considering the HPHT.

So, that was just my experience... I guess if I did it again, i would definitely do the same thing. Start with way bigger carat weight than needed again, and just click on them all until i found that body color that spoke to me. It is worth the little extra money invested in the base diamond and recut cost to end up with a perfect diamond you dont regret. I wasted SO MUCH money re-doing rings, i wish i just spent the extra initially because in the end i paid way more than if i did it this way from the start.

My diamond came out better than i could have ever dreamed. I had the issue with all my previous labs with that greyness in MANY lights, not just bright direct light (like in my car, in my office...) and this one does NOT do that.
 
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Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
OK, here's an illustration of what i saw...

The one on brilliance is the actual one i bought (before it was recut) where i fell in love with the warm yellow tint. Just click on the 360 view to see the video:
https://www.brilliance.com/lab-grow...make-vs1-clarity-igi-certified-SKU-LG22425630


This other one is just a diamond that looks clear yet somehow grey to my eye. Maybe I am nuts??!! Ok, we all already know i am, LOL, but this Adiamor one is what I was avoiding in my search, because it looks totally clear and colorless, yet i see grey.
https://www.adiamor.com/Lab-Diamonds/5.51-ct-G-VS2-Affinity-Cut-Round-Diamond/D57613953?rfr=search

So if you look at them one after another maybe you'll see what my eye saw too, colorless, yet grey, like a coldness?

Does anyone know what i am talking about?? LOL!
 

LightBright

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
1,653
OK, here's an illustration of what i saw...

The one on brilliance is the actual one i bought (before it was recut) where i fell in love with the warm yellow tint. Just click on the 360 view to see the video:
https://www.brilliance.com/lab-grow...make-vs1-clarity-igi-certified-SKU-LG22425630


This other one is just a diamond that looks clear yet somehow grey to my eye. Maybe I am nuts??!! Ok, we all already know i am, LOL, but this Adiamor one is what I was avoiding in my search, because it looks totally clear and colorless, yet i see grey.
https://www.adiamor.com/Lab-Diamonds/5.51-ct-G-VS2-Affinity-Cut-Round-Diamond/D57613953?rfr=search

So if you look at them one after another maybe you'll see what my eye saw too, colorless, yet grey, like a coldness?

Does anyone know what i am talking about?? LOL!

I’m wondering if the color of the videos posted are actually accurate at all. I wonder if it is the background color coming into play, etc. Sometimes for example I see 360 views on JA and the diamonds look much more tinted than they should be per their Grading Report, the video distorts the color. It’s something I never considered but wonder if you are seeing something real here. Good to know.
 

Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
I’m wondering if the color of the videos posted are actually accurate at all. I wonder if it is the background color coming into play, etc. Sometimes for example I see 360 views on JA and the diamonds look much more tinted than they should be per their Grading Report, the video distorts the color. It’s something I never considered but wonder if you are seeing something real here. Good to know.

Exactly what I’m saying!

Totally agree

I’m really not sure , but clearly in the videos the one looks very colorless (but again cold or grey to my eye) and the other one has that warm tint to it. Maybe it’s nothing but I figured I’d mention what I’m seeing
 

Nm06003

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
26
OK, here's an illustration of what i saw...

The one on brilliance is the actual one i bought (before it was recut) where i fell in love with the warm yellow tint. Just click on the 360 view to see the video:
https://www.brilliance.com/lab-grow...make-vs1-clarity-igi-certified-SKU-LG22425630


This other one is just a diamond that looks clear yet somehow grey to my eye. Maybe I am nuts??!! Ok, we all already know i am, LOL, but this Adiamor one is what I was avoiding in my search, because it looks totally clear and colorless, yet i see grey.
https://www.adiamor.com/Lab-Diamonds/5.51-ct-G-VS2-Affinity-Cut-Round-Diamond/D57613953?rfr=search

So if you look at them one after another maybe you'll see what my eye saw too, colorless, yet grey, like a coldness?

Does anyone know what i am talking about?? LOL!

Yes I see what you mean! I’m looking for a warm/slightly yellow tint too. That second G looked very icey and cold. My current e-ring is a J and I’ve always loved how it looked compared to my studs which are in the colorless range.

I noticed you also mentioned that you wanted a high crown, was that for the flowery facets or something else? Sorry I’m still new to OEC and not as familiar with optimal proportions and I was thinking to go with a 3.3 carat and hopefully that will give Ashley enough wiggle room for cutting to a 2.75-3 carat range ?
 

Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
Yes I see what you mean! I’m looking for a warm/slightly yellow tint too. That second G looked very icey and cold. My current e-ring is a J and I’ve always loved how it looked compared to my studs which are in the colorless range.

I noticed you also mentioned that you wanted a high crown, was that for the flowery facets or something else? Sorry I’m still new to OEC and not as familiar with optimal proportions and I was thinking to go with a 3.3 carat and hopefully that will give Ashley enough wiggle room for cutting to a 2.75-3 carat range ?

It just seemed all the earth grown true antiques i loved had the tall crown. I actually found an earth grown OEC true antique I liked that I copied the specs and sent to Ashley (the depth and crown and table percentages), so that would be my suggestion, try to find one around the carat weight you want that you love the faceting on and use the stats. I looked on First Dibs, Adrianna Barbone and Victro Canera

https://www.victorcanera.com/diamonds?shape=old-european-cut

https://andriabarbone.com/collectio...ond-engagement-rings?sort_by=price-descending

And finally, the most perfect OEC ... other than mine... LOL!
https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rin...ean-brilliant-cut-diamond-ring/id-j_11605122/
 

concun

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 11, 2009
Messages
145
@Inked, you only mentioned about the table, would you still care for 60-63% depth? And I assume no need for ideal cut, etc since it will be recut?
 

MrsT

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 28, 2006
Messages
223
I’m interested in this post. @Inked dreamy stone has me thinking about using lab OEC for earrings. I like a touch of warmth too.
 

Dreamer_D

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
25,725
I’m not sure I’d try to micro manage the cut proportions too much as you want a well performing stone more than anything! Requesting a high crown or offering images is one thing but telling them what depth you want is another.
 

Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
@Inked, you only mentioned about the table, would you still care for 60-63% depth? And I assume no need for ideal cut, etc since it will be recut?

I’m interested in this post. @Inked dreamy stone has me thinking about using lab OEC for earrings. I like a touch of warmth too.

OMG, @Dreamer_D i was a total micro manager... hahaha! I just wanted to get it right, like we always say, yo uhave to see it to know with an OEC... but if you're having it cut then you get what you get so i looked at ones I loved with my eyes (from the 3 sites I mentioned above) and tried to copy the stats.

I figured the more I told him the closer he would get to what i was looking for because i feel like there are 1 million OECs and they all are sooo different when you look at their reports.

The thing is, GIA reports don't actually have all the info on them for old cuts, they consider it fancy and they dont put the angles on the cert. I had to do a lot of digging hahaha.
GIA says: A Round diamond has to meet 3 out of 4 benchmarks to be certified as an Old European Cut :
-A table size of less than or equal to 53%,
-A crown angle of 40 degrees or more,
-A lower half facet length of 60% or less,
-An open culet.

So I gave him ranges and approximates... and maybe he just ignored all of it and did what he wanted because he does thousands of them so he just already knows... LOL! I really don't know, what i wonder sometimes is it it just the sheer scale of my diamond? because it does exactly what i want and i see it so clearly, but is it just because it has a lot of room to reflect??

I really don't know, all i know is i love it so much that i am scared to lose it because i feel like it can never be re-created!

I am just going to cut and paste the email I sent him:

Inspiration facets
inspiration OEC.png

The dimensions of the my perfect diamond are as follows, it doesn’t have to be exact but around here is great!

5 -5.2 carat (no bigger than 5.2)
11 x 11 x 7
Table 49.5—52%
Depth 60 - 64%

Crown height approximately 20%

I want a “tall puffy crown” , so I read something about 20% crown height and 40° crown angle? Does that sound correct? I am not concerned with ‘losing’ carat weight, cut everything you need to get the angles/tall crown. I also really like very fat outer edge arrows.
------------------------------
Thats what I sent... this is what i received:
5.46 carat
11.11 x 11.16 x 7.23
Table 52.5
Depth 61.8
crown height 18%
crown angle 37.5

SWDC-456c-af17-7caac733d340.JPG
 

Dreamer_D

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
25,725
@Inked id be curious to see a sarin report for your diamond. In my view, most of these recuts that SW have done are more like American cuts than classic OECs. American cuts are form the 1920s and they are very precision cut precursors to the modern round. They usually have proportions very similar to modern rounds but they have much shorter lower girdle facets. Crowns and tables tend to be similar to the Tolkowski ideal rounds, just at the lower end: about 50% table and depth around 60. There are other small differences. But doing this cut allows SW to retain as much weight as possible because they only have to recut the pavilion facets and not the crown at all. I recall in the past a number of people who did recuts talked about this, them only cutting the pavilion. The outcome is very pretty! But not a true, classic OEC style you would see pre-1900s.

what were the proportions on your diamond pre-recut?
 

Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
@Inked id be curious to see a sarin report for your diamond. In my view, most of these recuts that SW have done are more like American cuts than classic OECs. American cuts are form the 1920s and they are very precision cut precursors to the modern round. They usually have proportions very similar to modern rounds but they have much shorter lower girdle facets. Crowns and tables tend to be similar to the Tolkowski ideal rounds, just at the lower end: about 50% table and depth around 60. There are other small differences. But doing this cut allows SW to retain as much weight as possible because they only have to recut the pavilion facets and not the crown at all. I recall in the past a number of people who did recuts talked about this, them only cutting the pavilion. The outcome is very pretty! But not a true, classic OEC style you would see pre-1900s.

what were the proportions on your diamond pre-recut?

OMG, this was my fear actually... thats why i kept saying "cut more"! lol and in this case it worked out great for me because i couldn't be happier with this result, I love what i see when I look at it. I agree that they focus on the preservation of carat weight and i didnt want that in this case. I did speak to another place in NYC that does re-cuts also and considered them, because i was worried about exactly what you are saying here!!!!

Do you mind looking at this??? If we had private message capabilities I would have asked you! Because you came up over and over in threads from like 2004 and 2009 and 2017 when people asked about "ideal angles" (I had been googling "OEC Ideal crown angle LOL) because you know the right angles and stuff!! Although you always tell the posters you need to judge with the eye, but when you do a recut, you cant really do that! I learned about nail heads from you!! hahaha!!! Can you tell me by looking at these stats??????

did they change as you would want??

original Table 56% - new table 52.5%
original Crown Angle 36.4 - new crown angle 37.5
original Crown height 16% - new crown height 18%
Original pavilion depth 42% - new pavilion depth 40.4%
Original pavilion angle 40.1 - new pavilion angle 40.6
Original total depth 62.2% - new total depth 61.8%
 

Lisa Loves Shiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
4,743
@Inked id be curious to see a sarin report for your diamond. In my view, most of these recuts that SW have done are more like American cuts than classic OECs. American cuts are form the 1920s and they are very precision cut precursors to the modern round. They usually have proportions very similar to modern rounds but they have much shorter lower girdle facets. Crowns and tables tend to be similar to the Tolkowski ideal rounds, just at the lower end: about 50% table and depth around 60. There are other small differences. But doing this cut allows SW to retain as much weight as possible because they only have to recut the pavilion facets and not the crown at all. I recall in the past a number of people who did recuts talked about this, them only cutting the pavilion. The outcome is very pretty! But not a true, classic OEC style you would see pre-1900s.

what were the proportions on your diamond pre-recut?

Hi Dreamer. Would the IGI cert list such a re-cut diamond as Old European Cut? I'm curious because my re-cut diamond is listed as an OEC on the cert.
 

Dreamer_D

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
25,725
OMG, this was my fear actually... thats why i kept saying "cut more"! lol and in this case it worked out great for me because i couldn't be happier with this result, I love what i see when I look at it. I agree that they focus on the preservation of carat weight and i didnt want that in this case. I did speak to another place in NYC that does re-cuts also and considered them, because i was worried about exactly what you are saying here!!!!

Do you mind looking at this??? If we had private message capabilities I would have asked you! Because you came up over and over in threads from like 2004 and 2009 and 2017 when people asked about "ideal angles" (I had been googling "OEC Ideal crown angle LOL) because you know the right angles and stuff!! Although you always tell the posters you need to judge with the eye, but when you do a recut, you cant really do that! I learned about nail heads from you!! hahaha!!! Can you tell me by looking at these stats??????

did they change as you would want??

original Table 56% - new table 52.5%
original Crown Angle 36.4 - new crown angle 37.5
original Crown height 16% - new crown height 18%
Original pavilion depth 42% - new pavilion depth 40.4%
Original pavilion angle 40.1 - new pavilion angle 40.6
Original total depth 62.2% - new total depth 61.8%

I mean your new diamond is gorgeous and looks just like the big sister of my true old cut, so whatever they did worked perfectly! It looks like they did cut the whole stone because the crown proportions changed, and that is likely why you had such a great result! I’d still call yours an “American cut”, which for obvious reasons is a 100% compliment from me. It has some flavour of an OEC but the level of optical perfection and the prominent fat “arrows” are not commonly seen in pre 1900s diamonds. Most true OECs are not great optical performers. That’s why it’s so hard to make a perfect modern OEC and so many of the ones I’ve seen just look a little off. Because it’s hard to avoid obstruction and other undesirable optical properties when you use the true old OEC proportions. I still love them and forgive them because they were cut for candle light using, like a rock and a hammer lol. But for modern recuts I far prefer the flavour you have, which as I said is closer to what I would call an American cut per the book of the same name.
 

Dreamer_D

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
25,725
Hi Dreamer. Would the IGI cert list such a re-cut diamond as Old European Cut? I'm curious because my re-cut diamond is listed as an OEC on the cert.

Does IGI list their criteria for the OEC designation anywhere? GIA has published their criteria for OEC and for Circular Brilliant and the difference is subtle but interesting. My diamond was not classed as an OEC by EGL way back in the day!
 

Inked

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
801
I mean your new diamond is gorgeous and looks just like the big sister of my true old cut, so whatever they did worked perfectly! It looks like they did cut the whole stone because the crown proportions changed, and that is likely why you had such a great result! I’d still call yours an “American cut”, which for obvious reasons is a 100% compliment from me. It has some flavour of an OEC but the level of optical perfection and the prominent fat “arrows” are not commonly seen in pre 1900s diamonds. Most true OECs are not great optical performers. That’s why it’s so hard to make a perfect modern OEC and so many of the ones I’ve seen just look a little off. Because it’s hard to avoid obstruction and other undesirable optical properties when you use the true old OEC proportions. I still love them and forgive them because they were cut for candle light using, like a rock and a hammer lol. But for modern recuts I far prefer the flavour you have, which as I said is closer to what I would call an American cut per the book of the same name.

THANK YOU!! and I'll happily take the "American cut" designation!! I mean, there really SHOULD be a distinction between newly cut "OEC" and *actual* antiques! I actually had asked Ashley if he could cut it out of round, and he said no, LOL.

I had a true antique OEC first and I LOVE the idea that it was meant for candle light and was hand cut, but I really wanted bigger and to get bigger you need to spend more and i just cant wear $50k out of my house on my hand walking around, I just feel so vulnerable, it's really sad that i am literally SCARED, but it is what it is.

Anyway, thank you for taking a peek and it really truly means a lot to me that you give it the thumbs up!! There's no better expert on it than you, i learned that in my 3 month search LOL! I am so happy that labs allow more of us to get our dream jewelry :kiss2:
 

Dreamer_D

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
25,725
THANK YOU!! and I'll happily take the "American cut" designation!! I mean, there really SHOULD be a distinction between newly cut "OEC" and *actual* antiques! I actually had asked Ashley if he could cut it out of round, and he said no, LOL.

I had a true antique OEC first and I LOVE the idea that it was meant for candle light and was hand cut, but I really wanted bigger and to get bigger you need to spend more and i just cant wear $50k out of my house on my hand walking around, I just feel so vulnerable, it's really sad that i am literally SCARED, but it is what it is.

Anyway, thank you for taking a peek and it really truly means a lot to me that you give it the thumbs up!! There's no better expert on it than you, i learned that in my 3 month search LOL! I am so happy that labs allow more of us to get our dream jewelry :kiss2:

I'm so glad those old posts are still helpful to people! I can't believe I've been on PS for like 17 years lol I took a break for about a decade when I was not really indulging this hobby at all, but I'm enjoying being back.

Eventually we will probably see wonky newer cut stones! Why not?

I don't think I will ever own a natural diamond that is 5ct either! I am not sure I will ever own one bigger than 2ct. I have some fantasies of one day having a very very tinted OMC around 3ct. I suppose that would be my dream. I haven't yet dipped my toes into lab stones. Right now I enjoy finding and buying antiques online, even though the only ones I can afford are "small". Right now I'm trying to collect a suite of half carat OMCs for a five stone ring. I have three. But I am loving the old cut labs I'm seeing these days! Maybe I'll get one some day.

Here is a little more about the American Cut, or Early Ideal cut, which is a name for a style of cut that emerged in the US in about the 1920s... its part of the broader umbrella term "transitional". Its my fave.

From reading Al Gilbertson's book I think my stone is from the 1920s - 1940 at the latest, mostly because of the length of the lgf and the table being as small as it is. Of course, I am far from an expert on this stuff, its a huge topic -- history of diamond cuts. Mine seems to fit the bill for what he calls the "European Cut" or the "American Cut": crown and pavilion angles similar to an MRB, but a table smaller than MRB but larger than OEC, medium culet (though those are all over the place in that time period), and medium lgf. I think the length of the star facets also helps date a diamond, but I don't know what mine are. From his book there certainly were formulas back then for ideal cuts, but people seemed to differ in what that ideal formula was.
 

Lisa Loves Shiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
4,743
Does IGI list their criteria for the OEC designation anywhere? GIA has published their criteria for OEC and for Circular Brilliant and the difference is subtle but interesting. My diamond was not classed as an OEC by EGL way back in the day!

Thanks for the reply. I can't find the IGI criteria when searching online. The re-cut Ashley did on my OEC diamond fits the GIA cut parameters for an OEC.

I've seen a couple lab diamonds on Ritani that looked like a cross between an OMC and OEC and they looked very antique. I wish we would see more of these types of stones for sale. Optimal symmetry is nice but wonkiness has it's charm.
 

Dreamer_D

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
25,725
Thanks for the reply. I can't find the IGI criteria when searching online. The re-cut Ashley did on my OEC diamond fits the GIA cut parameters for an OEC.

I've seen a couple lab diamonds on Ritani that looked like a cross between an OMC and OEC and they looked very antique. I wish we would see more of these types of stones for sale. Optimal symmetry is nice but wonkiness has it's charm.

Well if it fits the criteria for GIA then that’s that. Yours must also have had work done on the crown! I’m gonna go track down your thread!

I think they are getting better and better at making these cuts. But I remember when a few vendors were developing their branded old cuts it took a lot of work to get them right. But I recall the biggest problem was finding natural diamond rough that was the right price or modern diamonds that had the right proportions. Obviously those aren’t issues with lab diamonds.

I’ve seen the mine style cuts you’re talking about on Ritani too. They are very tempting! But they are a mix of perfect and not perfect that isn’t capturing my sense of romance yet. Like, they often still have leakage but I can’t blame the bad tools from 150 years ago! Maybe they will improve? I am waiting.
 

concun

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 11, 2009
Messages
145
@Inked i am a modern girl and had never been interested in OEC, but your stone caught my attention, or better yet, your story got me, so I now wonder what I have missed all these years… I :kiss2: your stone. Keep her safe and if you have ever got bored of her, I will be more than happy to shower her with love. I hope that day will never come.
 

Nm06003

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
26
@Kim N Would love your help with picking out a stone! Anything you recommend from loose grown diamonds site?

Shooting for 3.2-3.3 to cut down to 9.2 mm
G/H
57% table or smaller (per Ashley’s recommendation)
VVS1 or better

Thank you so much! And to everyone else who’s responded
 

Kim N

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
6,534
@Kim N Would love your help with picking out a stone! Anything you recommend from loose grown diamonds site?

Shooting for 3.2-3.3 to cut down to 9.2 mm
G/H
57% table or smaller (per Ashley’s recommendation)
VVS1 or better

Thank you so much! And to everyone else who’s responded

I have a few options for you! Is VVS2 okay?
 

Kim N

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
6,534
Yes!! Would you agree that IGI tends to be accurate in its grading?

I think so, although that's based on anecdotes, and I haven't personally seen a large enough sample size to say that definitively.

Are you still around? Let me know when you're ready to put one on hold.
 

Nm06003

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
26
I think so, although that's based on anecdotes, and I haven't personally seen a large enough sample size to say that definitively.

Are you still around? Let me know when you're ready to put one on hold.

Yes im on! Or if there’s a time tomorrow EST I can make sure to hop on then. Thank u so much!!
 
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