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Advice on 4ct oval diamond ring

Goose682

Rough_Rock
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May 10, 2020
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I’m looking for some advice on a 4ct oval and would love any and all feedback. I’ve been looking on every website imaginable for months now and I’m not having much success at finding the ultimate loose 4ct oval diamond to have set by a jeweler. I found a 4ct, SI1, I color oval diamond recently that comes in a setting. The strong blue fluorescence and depth (only 58.9% and I think for ovals you aren’t supposed to go below 60%) make me nervous, but I’d love to hear feedback from everyone here. The Jeweler assured me the fluorescence caused no haziness and that it resulted in the color looking more clear than a normal I color. Video is linked along with the GIA cert. C77DE3C8-0A90-474A-A686-13C934839ECE.jpeg

video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QHyx1szHMoaQw5cocdO3h_hzrr1ZFUZn/view?usp=drivesdk
 
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Is this from Lauren B?
 
It looked familiar from their instagram. I don't know anything about their jewelry except that they seem to have beautiful rings, especially in fancy shapes in large sizes. Is there a return policy?
 
It looked familiar from their instagram. I don't know anything about their jewelry except that they seem to have beautiful rings, especially in fancy shapes in large sizes. Is there a return policy?

My understanding is that there is a 10 day return policy.
 
I would ask to see it in different lighting conditions. Most stones are pretty sparkly under jewelers' lights. This one certainly does look to be sparkly.
With fancy cuts, I worry less about the numbers and care more about the performance. In the video it seems to perform pretty nicely. Have you
seen it in person?
 
Then just make sure and doubly confirm and how long until your money would be refunded, etc., and you can get it and see how you like it in different lighting conditions and also you can seek the consultation with a qualified independent gemologist if you so choose. There are "guides" for fancy shapes but it really all boils down to what is pleasing to the individual person. Shape appeal is so individual, and also the optical pattern and type of sparkle and flashes it gives off are personal to the wearer. If you've been looking for a long time and this is of great interest to you and they have a solid return policy then I say go for it!
 
I would ask to see it in different lighting conditions. Most stones are pretty sparkly under jewelers' lights. This one certainly does look to be sparkly.
With fancy cuts, I worry less about the numbers and care more about the performance. In the video it seems to perform pretty nicely. Have you
seen it in person?

This! I would want to see it in normal lighting. I also worry about LaurenB settings because the ones I've seen are VERY thin (to the point of being unsafe IMHO).
 
I would ask to see it in different lighting conditions. Most stones are pretty sparkly under jewelers' lights. This one certainly does look to be sparkly.
With fancy cuts, I worry less about the numbers and care more about the performance. In the video it seems to perform pretty nicely. Have you
seen it in person?

Unfortunately we haven’t seen it in person due to COVID shutting everything down. The video looks great though and I’ve requested additional videos and one in natural light outside. Does the bow tie seem bad? It seems impossible to find an oval that doesn’t have some level of bow tie, and I thought this one was much better than most.
 
This! I would want to see it in normal lighting. I also worry about LaurenB settings because the ones I've seen are VERY thin (to the point of being unsafe IMHO).

Pardon my ignorance, I’m still learning a lot about rings. What do you mean by the setting being thin? See below for more pics of this ring in case they are helpful.

9BF47C0C-9FFD-433D-B1BC-07E73D6DB0F7.jpegC39608E6-8F42-45BF-9556-8364DAA22253.jpeg
 
This! I would want to see it in normal lighting. I also worry about LaurenB settings because the ones I've seen are VERY thin (to the point of being unsafe IMHO).

@lovedogs touched on something important that I, too, have observed with their (beautiful) rings... some of the styles seem to be very thin.. or the mounting basket is positioned such that it seems it could be knocked off easily if struck just right. I know they do this so the matching little bands can fit perfectly underneath which would definitely add support, but until those bands are added it would be of concern to me. Also, those really pretty very thin bands will lend themselves with a massive diamond like you are considering to create spinning. So unless you plan to add to the thickness by stacking with a band, it is definitely going to be sitting upside down on your finger.
 
@lovedogs touched on something important that I, too, have observed with their (beautiful) rings... some of the styles seem to be very thin.. or the mounting basket is positioned such that it seems it could be knocked off easily if struck just right. I know they do this so the matching little bands can fit perfectly underneath which would definitely add support, but until those bands are added it would be of concern to me. Also, those really pretty very thin bands will lend themselves with a massive diamond like you are considering to create spinning. So unless you plan to add to the thickness by stacking with a band, it is definitely going to be sitting upside down on your finger.

Forgive me if this is another dumb question, but is stacking a wedding band on its own going to prevent the spinning, or are you saying the wedding band would need to be attached to the ring to prevent spinning? We were planning on pairing a setting with a thin band with a thicker diamond eternity band.
 
No dumb questions!
You don’t have to solder the rings together. The more wide you get on the finger, either by a single wide band, or by stacking one or more bands with a narrow one, will help keep the ring with the diamond more “stabile” on the finger in the upright position.
You might also want to inquire about a spacer band to sit between your 2 rings so they don’t damage each other... that will also help to reduce any spinning issues that could otherwise arise. Start another thread asking for help for a spacer band so people can post pictures and advice. They are small and low profile as to not take away from your e-ring and diamond band.
 
Unfortunately we haven’t seen it in person due to COVID shutting everything down. The video looks great though and I’ve requested additional videos and one in natural light outside. Does the bow tie seem bad? It seems impossible to find an oval that doesn’t have some level of bow tie, and I thought this one was much better than most.

The bow tie looks pretty obvious to me both in the video and in the face up photo. This stone has an L/W of 1.52 and I believe bow ties can be less noticeable in ovals with lower ratios. In other words, as the oval gets closer to being a round, the bow tie effect decreases. Of course a great cut will also decrease the bow tie and that's what you'd need if the 1.5 ratio is your preference. I don't know enough about ovals to be able to help you with the cut.
 
Lauren B settings are also grossly overpriced.

Maybe contact distinctive gem - I love his in depth diamond videos and he will send you a complete video with different lightings and a confirmation about a bow tie or not.
He also won’t be more expensive than Lauren B.
I wouldn’t go to him for a setting though. For the Lauren B aesthetic (a lot of melee (small diamonds on the setting) I would go to
- Victor Canera (handforged beautiful jeweller but a bit expensive)
- or Maytal Hannah (handforged cheaper than VC)
- or David Klaas (mostly CAD if you don’t ask for handforged - which is more expensive ).
 
Note that people have different definitions of bow-ties in diamonds. I consider them a distinctive dark area through the center of the stone that
has a negative impact on the stone.

Capture.PNG

Some people just consider the bow-tie shape of facets through the center as negative even though it reflects white light and does not go dark. These
facets through the center are often the brightest areas of an oval and are usually red in an aset image.

Capture.PNG

I consider the second diamond "ok" as long as the mushy areas are minimal as it turns. What you really want to see as the stone turns is more
nice distinctive facets light up vs mushy gray areas.

Distinctive Gems has created an "Ideal" oval stone that receives an Ideal for light return from AGS. Doesnt look like they have any in your size though.

You can find some ovals at lower ratios that have nice centers and good light return. You can also find them at higher ratios but just not as easy
to find.
They may look something like these with lower ratios. I'm not saying these are excellent choices. I'm just trying to show you that the faceting
patterns through the center can be bright.
 
I prefer an oval that has a ratio less than 1.5. That one is long and slim. I'll second having Victor Canera or Maytal Hannah make the setting if you want a pave setting. I'd want an absolute minimum of a 1.8mm wide shank and no diamonds on the sides of the shank or the base below the stone so that it doesn't scratch the band you wear with it.

If you tell people your budget range, they can probably suggest some potentially good stones.
 
Lauren B settings are also grossly overpriced.

Maybe contact distinctive gem - I love his in depth diamond videos and he will send you a complete video with different lightings and a confirmation about a bow tie or not.
He also won’t be more expensive than Lauren B.
I have used Distinctive gems concierge service and Jon managed to find me a perfect 3 carat diamond. Zero sales pressure. My well known appraiser was impressed with both the diamonds features and purchase price.
 
You are all so helpful— thank you thank you!

As a minor update, I received additional video of the ring in white light and sunlight: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HWlSn5GQxYgUXM4i-fYTFy07_Ly8ME9L/view?usp=drivesdk

I’ve been diving into so many websites looking at loose diamonds (including blue nile, adiamor, whiteflash (I don’t understand this one because they don’t have any video or pics of actual stones), James Allen, brilliant earth, yadav) for 2 months now, and I’m just not finding what I want, so I’m starting to think I may need a jeweler to source one for me since their networks are so much broader than one is posted. Budget is 45-50k for the stone alone, and if it was an exceptional stone there is some wiggle room in there. I want 1.4-1.45 LW ratio and preferably would like a G or better for color because it seems really difficult to find an H or I that doesn’t look too brown or yellow (but if there were an exceptionally white H or I, we are open). Clarity wise, we want eye clean, so SI1 at a minimum. Also— I’m very adverse to obvious bow ties which 90% of the James Allen ovals and blue nile ovals have. I know they exist to an extent in all ovals, but I’ve seen so many that are just awful.

As far as the recs for VC— we are very interested in having VC (or SK) make the setting. Any thoughts on whether we would have to blow the budget to have VC source the stone too?
 
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@Goose682 I want to make one comment regarding color... the larger the stone, the more the color will be noticeable. You are looking at a very large stone and I wouldn’t go past G... definitely not past H for sure, depending on how sensitive you are. Seeing color online is not accurate, IMO, you need to experience in person if you aren’t going G or higher. Also, fancy shapes tend to have more concentration of color at what would be the top and bottom if you set the usual vertical format. Another comment, and I know some will disagree with me, but sometimes you have to look at the stone in a whole picture way, like a package of elements. Because this is such a specific search, you may have to give one element a little slack. I just don’t think it’s possible to get that size, that shape, that color, that ratio, etc etc all together. Case in point, the smaller stone in my avatar. I wanted 2 ct, E color, 55 table, high crown, at a certain price point. So my proportions are not all super ideal specs. But I got all those other elements and it is so similar in performance to the super ideal which is the larger stone in my avatar. So it would be my advice to find something that is attractive to your eye and not worry about some of the little details. I know I may be in the minority on this thinking but I’m just adding some food for thought to the conversation.
 
For this budget, I'd contact Jonathan at Distinctive Gem and use his concierge service. I don't know a lot about VC sourcing stones.
 
For this budget, I'd contact Jonathan at Distinctive Gem and use his concierge service. I don't know a lot about VC sourcing stones.

Jon is great so I second that recommendation. I would also see what VC or SK can do in terms of sourcing stones. It is usually much easier to have the same person source the stone + make the setting (if possible).
 
Jon is great so I second that recommendation. I would also see what VC or SK can do in terms of sourcing stones. It is usually much easier to have the same person source the stone + make the setting (if possible).

SK?
 
How about Icerock Diamonds on Instagram? He deals in some large fancy cuts and does settings.
 
A long shot - www

& a much longer shot www.

I would ask the letter shop if any distinctive oval might be around, not least since they make interesting versions.
 
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Ok so, alternatively, I’m also looking at a 4ct, G color, VS2. Video is here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19kwWCCvJU6ebxbY3SVNw60Vs3UldETyz/view?usp=drivesdk

AF75DB0E-F298-483D-A7D7-ACA655566A2E.jpeg

Strong thoughts? I do prefer the single row band, and I do prefer the G color much more than the other. The I colored stone I posted videos of above seems to sparkle more, but it could just be a difference in lighting? Waiting on video of this one in the sunlight, but should have it later this week. Yes there is a bow tie, and yes there is strong blue fluorescence, but the jeweler assured me it caused no oily or haziness in the stone.
 
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Not after I have seen the 'long shot'.
 
I am a oval lover. Ovals when cut well don’t have a bow tie that effects the beauty of the stone. I like the slightly bigger flashes in the bow while I love the pinpoint sparkle in the top and bottom. The Rounder the oval the less bow tie -plus there is less mush facet look on top and bottom. In ovals, lower colors are more noticeable in the mush areas. Ovals can hide flaws so you may be able to upgrade color but with eye clean inclusions To stay in budget.
 
Ok so, alternatively, I’m also looking at a 4ct, G color, VS2. Video is here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19kwWCCvJU6ebxbY3SVNw60Vs3UldETyz/view?usp=drivesdk

AF75DB0E-F298-483D-A7D7-ACA655566A2E.jpeg

Strong thoughts? I do prefer the single row band, and I do prefer the G color much more than the other. The I colored stone I posted videos of above seems to sparkle more, but it could just be a difference in lighting? Waiting on video of this one in the sunlight, but should have it later this week. Yes there is a bow tie, and yes there is strong blue fluorescence, but the jeweler assured me it caused no oily or haziness in the stone.
That’s a pass for me and I’m usually “generous” on giving a stone a chance more than others here. This one is dead, dull, and has a bad bow tie. It’s not even sparkling in the jewelers lighting. And the band is flat as far as sparkle is concerned.
 
I know someone said to not go below a G, which would be my preference, but I’ve also heard from other people that if it’s cut really well you could do an H, or even and I. I know the common response is that you have to see it in person” to know the true color, but buying anything online makes it impossible to see in person unless we purchase and then return (which we are open to).

How does everyone feel about this option: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/4.00-carat-h-color-si1-clarity-sku-8112484
It’s an 4ct, H color, SI1 from James Allen, and my understanding is that James Allen has a good return policy.
 
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