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AGS introduces cut grading on DQR reports

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Sergey:
Here is the black jade. Sorry I forgot close-up lens. Photo quality not iimportant to message,

Chevee 002.jpg
 
... and here is lapis with white cats-eye glued into center. Again poor photography.
 
Oops - forgot pic. I am poor computer operator.

Chevee 003.jpg
 
Date: 11/7/2008 6:01:23 PM
Author: michaelgem

MYOPIA???

Let''s look at simplifications of Ideal round brilliant cut grading, such as those in the Journal Accordance article. This work includes details of commonalities between GIA and AGS charts and tables. Let''s look at the use of those charts and tables by GIA and now AGSL to communicate their cut grading systems and grade boundaries. These simplifications, which many believe are essential to understanding and practical utilization, are viewed by some as myopic, over-simplification.


My myopia (near-sightedness) allows me to notices details in small objects like gemstones that often go unnoticed by many. When it comes to diamonds, “cut nuts” or “diamond mavens” notice detail that is often unseen by most in usual diamond viewing. A good example is the subtle leakage and retroflection variations in the middle ring or iris of the “diamond eye” due to slight change in crown or pavilion main angles. These variations occur even within the sweet spot ranges of both AGS and GIA. As several have explained in the past, the effect of these variation''s on light performance is exaggerated by their representation in reflector devices, and consequently in the minds of those using them.



The attention to details, such as minor amounts of white leakage in reflector devices, at some level, has little to do with perceived light performance. In the case of slightly steeper and deeper round brilliants, it can explain why many see performance problems, while the GIA and their extensive comparison testing finds them to be EX. Past some point, all agree that steep/deep, just as shallow/shallow, exhibits poor light performance. But as you move from the Ideal combination (41°, 34°, 56%) in the steep/deep direction, the diamond reflects more from wider angles, better avoiding head obstruction. Decreased viewer obstruction explains positive results from observation testing by GIA for slightly steep/deep cuts, carried out in jewelry stores and other usual viewing circumstances. The comparison testing finds slightly steep/deep diamonds, that are just beginning to exhibit middle ring problems, to be judged by most as more, not less, brilliant than even the Tolkowsky Ideal. It appears from this comparison testing that the better perceived brightness of the slightly steep/deep proportions more than compensates for any slight middle ring problems in typical viewing and illumination conditions.



This is a simple explanation of just one example of the differences between what we ''mavens'' see that most consumers and jewelers in their viewing circumstances may see differently. This understanding causes many of us, myself included, to advocate a tighter sweet spot than either AGS Platinum, Gold or GIA EX. The Journal article noted that I and others “set the bar for the best make higher in some respects than either GIA or AGS.” While this may be fine for the perfectionists among us, if a lab downgrades a diamond cut, whose visual appearance is as good or better than another, in a very real sense, rather than a service, they may be doing a disservice to both the consumer and the cutter.



While acknowledging that my explanations, here and in my article, along with chart representations, like the AGS Gold, may be seen as myopic over simplifications, they are essential for education and understanding by jewelers, gemologist-appraisers, cutters and others in the trade. GIA and now AGS believe they provide a practical and essential way for the cutter to understand and optimize his cut planning. We agree to disagree that nothing material to overall light performance and diamond beauty is being lost or compromised in the use of charts and tables to communicate a cut grading system.



As an example of Occam''s razor, charts and tables are the simplest solution for the cutter, jeweler and ultimately the consumer that is adequate and sufficient to the task. GIA has been demonstrating this for over 2 years. The effective use of these charts by Sergey''s group to communicate the AGS PGS system and others for his clients is further proof. Sergey''s, GIA''s and AGS''s charts, and for that matter, the Accordance article''s explanation of them, are essential rather than myopic simplifications for cut grade understanding and usage by all.



Michael D. Cowing

PS: And I see a greater myopia in those who dismiss or fail to learn from charts like those Sergey''s group has generated with the PGS software.

Too many "Me''s, "I''s" and "My''s" to have any credibility
 
Date: 11/7/2008 6:01:23 PM
Author: michaelgem

While acknowledging that my explanations, here and in my article, along with chart representations, like the AGS Gold, may be seen as myopic over simplifications, they are essential for education and understanding by jewelers, gemologist-appraisers, cutters and others in the trade. GIA and now AGS believe they provide a practical and essential way for the cutter to understand and optimize his cut planning. We agree to disagree that nothing material to overall light performance and diamond beauty is being lost or compromised in the use of charts and tables to communicate a cut grading system.


We are talking but we are not communicating.
Simplifying it to charts to show cutters what to cut is fine.
Basing the cut grade on charts isn''t.
The biggest problem is change the lgf% to 75% and the charts change, the PGS results change to track reality while the Gold charts will not.
You can not use one chart to judge an entire 3D system it would take a chart for every lgf% every possible combination of digging and painting and every possible combination of symmetry.
Then what do you do with a combo that flips a grade in the first part of one square and not the end?
One that flips in the middle? one that flips at the end?
There is a lot of gray areas in charts because they aren''t fine toothed enough.
 
Date: 11/7/2008 10:41:51 PM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 11/7/2008 6:01:23 PM
Author: michaelgem


While acknowledging that my explanations, here and in my article, along with chart representations, like the AGS Gold, may be seen as myopic over simplifications, they are essential for education and understanding by jewelers, gemologist-appraisers, cutters and others in the trade. GIA and now AGS believe they provide a practical and essential way for the cutter to understand and optimize his cut planning. We agree to disagree that nothing material to overall light performance and diamond beauty is being lost or compromised in the use of charts and tables to communicate a cut grading system.


We are talking but we are not communicating.
Simplifying it to charts to show cutters what to cut is fine.
Basing the cut grade on charts isn''t.
The biggest problem is change the lgf% to 75% and the charts change, the PGS results change to track reality while the Gold charts will not.
You can not use one chart to judge an entire 3D system it would take a chart for every lgf% every possible combination of digging and painting and every possible combination of symmetry.
Then what do you do with a combo that flips a grade in the first part of one square and not the end?
One that flips in the middle? one that flips at the end?
There is a lot of gray areas in charts because they aren''t fine toothed enough.
re:We are talking but we are not communicating.

Karl,
We have different goals.
For example
1) You ask reject ASG Gold
2) AGSL has goal to increase market niche

If market just reject AGS gold or if AGSL recall( hard to believe) AGS Gold, it can not increase current market AGSL niche( My point what AGS Gold Could decrease AGSL niche, I am agree what AGS Gold could increase AGSL niche. It is hard to predict. I am feel what it is strategically wrong step for AGSL because AGS Gold is step back and very contradictive with AGS Platinum )


It is not so constructive to ask just reject AGS GOLD.

I am trying show good commercial perspective to develop cut grading system according future market demands. It is best way to increase market niche for AGSL
1) Real consumer Education.
a. Open discussions with Labs
b. Consumer connoisseur groups
c. Use marketing strategy from Vine market
2) Fancy cuts , 3D light performance grade with Same rules for all cuts
a. Grading for Cutter Houses Brands
b. Score for Luxury Brands diamond.( MontBlanc , Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Escada ,)
3) Grading the facet flatness . I think it is very important for brilliancy and fire. Most probably what H&A diamonds are more bright due better facet flatness .Good flatness is much more important for optics than smoothing.
4) Milkyness( transparency )
5) Color grade from table(
for colorless diamonds)
6) Objective clarity grade( Full 3D model with 3D inclusions .)
a. It will help change diamond stock to sempolish stock and work according orders like in other industries ( usually you order car for your specific demands: color, music, motor, leather upholstery,..)
7) Objective color grade for color fancy diamonds( I remember answer and reason)
 
Date: 11/8/2008 5:09:58 AM
Author: Serg


1) Real consumer Education.
a. Open discussions with Labs Are Labs even interested?
b. Consumer connoisseur groups
c. Use marketing strategy from Vine market
2) Fancy cuts , 3D light performance grade with Same rules for all cuts
a. Grading for Cutter Houses Brands
b. Score for Luxury Brands diamond.( MontBlanc , Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Escada ,) I dont think Luxury brands that came up with patented cuts are interested in Lab''s scoring their Patented branded Diamonds..., (but I might be wrong...)
3) Grading the facet flatness . I think it is very important for brilliancy and fire. Most probably what H&A diamonds are more bright due better facet flatness .Good flatness is much more important for optics than smoothing.
4) Milkyness( transparency )
5) Color grade from table(
for colorless diamonds) I dont think it should be graded only from the table..., just as I dont think fancy colored Diamonds should be graded only from the table...., these grades are not 100%...
6) Objective clarity grade( Full 3D model with 3D inclusions .)
a. It will help change diamond stock to sempolish stock and work according orders like in other industries ( usually you order car for your specific demands: color, music, motor, leather upholstery,..)
7) Objective color grade for color fancy diamonds( I remember answer and reason)
 
Serg may be correct that the move to Gold "might" not have been the business broadening panacea that AGSL believes it may be. It will be difficult to take back this move and business owners should always be cautious of their moves. We hope that the industry and the consumer finds Gold less controversial and more useful than some of the critics here have found it, but we must respect the knowledge and educational background of some of these vocal critics, too. One should also keep in mind that not every critic is identical. One or more may have an agenda which castes doubt on the objectivity of their criticism.

I believe charts have their place. If one has very tight standards in charts which always lead to expected final grades, then any cutter using these charts will hit their Platinum cut grade target even if they miss the exact chart parameters by a bit due to measurement inaccuracy or cuting difficulty. Loose chart standards will create havoc as final Platinum grades may not reach expectations causing financial distress and loss of confidence in the Gold standard chart system.

Ultimately parameters can be counted upon to guide cutters so long as physical measurements are very highly accurate and all needs of fine cutting such as flat facets, alignments and more minor cut details are maintained.

My long held personal view is: "GRADING should be the reported result only of direct assessment, never by a set of charts. There are too many variables to consider and it is the overall, end result, which humans want to evaluate and compare." Charts should be used for screening and for planning, not final grades.
 
Date: 11/8/2008 5:09:58 AM
Author: Serg

If market just reject AGS gold or if AGSL recall( hard to believe) AGS Gold, it can not increase current market AGSL niche( My point what AGS Gold Could decrease AGSL niche, I am agree what AGS Gold could increase AGSL niche. It is hard to predict. I am feel what it is strategically wrong step for AGSL because AGS Gold is step back and very contradictive with AGS Platinum )

If I do a good job at protecting consumers AGS Gold will decrease AGS demand.
If AGS ideal no longer brings a higher price or sell faster then there is no reason to use it over GIA.
They can not be allowed to take advantage of consumers this way.
 
Date: 11/8/2008 6:41:17 AM
Author: oldminer
Serg may be correct that the move to Gold ''might'' not have been the business broadening panacea that AGSL believes it may be. It will be difficult to take back this move and business owners should always be cautious of their moves. We hope that the industry and the consumer finds Gold less controversial and more useful than some of the critics here have found it, but we must respect the knowledge and educational background of some of these vocal critics, too. One should also keep in mind that not every critic is identical. One or more may have an agenda which castes doubt on the objectivity of their criticism.

I believe charts have their place. If one has very tight standards in charts which always lead to expected final grades, then any cutter using these charts will hit their Platinum cut grade target even if they miss the exact chart parameters by a bit due to measurement inaccuracy or cuting difficulty. Loose chart standards will create havoc as final Platinum grades may not reach expectations causing financial distress and loss of confidence in the Gold standard chart system.

Ultimately parameters can be counted upon to guide cutters so long as physical measurements are very highly accurate and all needs of fine cutting such as flat facets, alignments and more minor cut details are maintained.

My long held personal view is: ''GRADING should be the reported result only of direct assessment, never by a set of charts. There are too many variables to consider and it is the overall, end result, which humans want to evaluate and compare.'' Charts should be used for screening and for planning, not final grades.

Re: GRADING should be the reported result only of direct assessment, never by a set of charts.



Dave ,


1. What is direct assessment for Cut Appearance?
a. If we use photo shot for to evaluate Diamond Beauty , is it direct assessment??

b. What is PGS grade based on 3D model ? It is not grade based on Charts, but is not direct grade like subjective grade for Color and Clarity
2. Pure direct grade for Cut( like for color and clarity) has a lot of disadvantages and problems. If you use camera instead human eye and Software instead Human mind for Measure BEAUTY, you can not say what you use DIRECT assessment for BEAUTY grade

3. Combination direct and indirect methods is best possibility for cut grade
a. Mylkiness, flatness ,.. are for direct grade without Human
b. Major Symmetry is for direct grade based on 3D model without Human
c. Minor symmetry is for direct grade( with scanners or with Human)
d. Beauty
i. Brilliancy, Fire, scintillation – indirect grade based on real 3dmodel
ii. Shape- Human Taste
 
Date: 11/8/2008 5:09:58 AM
Author: Serg

1) Real consumer Education.


a. Open discussions with Labs they arent interested

b. Consumer connoisseur groups were here

c. Use marketing strategy from Vine market forget marketing and add value

2) Fancy cuts , 3D light performance grade with Same rules for all cuts -- strongly disagree fancy cuts get their beauty different ways they cant be compared to another cut

a. Grading for Cutter Houses Brands

b. Score for Luxury Brands diamond.( MontBlanc , Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Escada ,)

3) Grading the facet flatness . I think it is very important for brilliancy and fire. Most probably what H&A diamonds are more bright due better facet flatness .Good flatness is much more important for optics than smoothing. sounds good, need proof

4) Milkyness( transparency )

5) Color grade from table(
for colorless diamonds) somewhat agree but it is impossible to implement

6) Objective clarity grade( Full 3D model with 3D inclusions .) would have to look at the specifics

a. It will help change diamond stock to sempolish stock and work according orders like in other industries ( usually you order car for your specific demands: color, music, motor, leather upholstery,..) way kewl

7) Objective color grade for color fancy diamonds( I remember answer and reason)

 
Date: 11/8/2008 9:59:03 AM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 11/8/2008 5:09:58 AM
Author: Serg


1) Real consumer Education.


a. Open discussions with Labs they arent interested

b. Consumer connoisseur groups were here

c. Use marketing strategy from Vine market forget marketing and add value

2) Fancy cuts , 3D light performance grade with Same rules for all cuts -- strongly disagree fancy cuts get their beauty different ways they cant be compared to another cut

a. Grading for Cutter Houses Brands

b. Score for Luxury Brands diamond.( MontBlanc , Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Escada ,)

3) Grading the facet flatness . I think it is very important for brilliancy and fire. Most probably what H&A diamonds are more bright due better facet flatness .Good flatness is much more important for optics than smoothing. sounds good, need proof

4) Milkyness( transparency )

5) Color grade from table(
for colorless diamonds) somewhat agree but it is impossible to implement

6) Objective clarity grade( Full 3D model with 3D inclusions .) would have to look at the specifics

a. It will help change diamond stock to sempolish stock and work according orders like in other industries ( usually you order car for your specific demands: color, music, motor, leather upholstery,..) way kewl

7) Objective color grade for color fancy diamonds( I remember answer and reason)

re:strongly disagree fancy cuts get their beauty different ways they cant be compared to another cut



Karl,

What critical difference Do you see?
 
Date: 11/8/2008 10:09:12 AM
Author: Serg

Karl,


What critical difference Do you see?

Lets compare Square h&a that is basically a squared off RB.
What drives its beauty? Light return.

Lets compare it to an asscher..
What drives its beauty.. patterns and fire.

Is a asscher that has lets say 80% of the brightness of the square h&a an ugly diamond?
Is a square h&a that has 1/10 the broad flash fire of an asscher an ugly diamond?
 
Date: 11/8/2008 10:15:43 AM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 11/8/2008 10:09:12 AM
Author: Serg

Karl,


What critical difference Do you see?

Lets compare Square h&a that is basically a squared off RB.
What drives its beauty? Light return.

Lets compare it to an asscher..
What drives its beauty.. patterns and fire.

Is a asscher that has lets say 80% of the brightness of the square h&a an ugly diamond?
Is a square h&a that has 1/10 the broad flash fire of an asscher an ugly diamond?
Human taste options...., a lot more options vs. the very limited in RB''s...
 
Date: 11/8/2008 10:15:43 AM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 11/8/2008 10:09:12 AM
Author: Serg

Karl,


What critical difference Do you see?

Lets compare Square h&a that is basically a squared off RB.
What drives its beauty? Light return.

Lets compare it to an asscher..
What drives its beauty.. patterns and fire.

Is a asscher that has lets say 80% of the brightness of the square h&a an ugly diamond?
Is a square h&a that has 1/10 the broad flash fire of an asscher an ugly diamond?

Light return is just one metric to Evaluate Cut. It is simplest metric what should not been used like final grade for any cut( and for RBC too)


Cut grade metricsñ should evaluate " diamond Life"= combination Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire ( ability cut to catch one source light in room and present it to consumers in best way)


scores for Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire should be open and independent.
Each consumer can select best for Him Taste combination Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire scores
Integrated score could be different for different market niches( ring, ear-ring, night club diamond)
best diamonds should have nice combination big and small virtual facets( big rare flashes for Fire, + a lot of small flashes for scintillation in same time)




 
Date: 11/8/2008 10:53:11 AM
Author: Serg

Date: 11/8/2008 10:15:43 AM
Author: strmrdr


Date: 11/8/2008 10:09:12 AM
Author: Serg

Karl,


What critical difference Do you see?


Lets compare Square h&a that is basically a squared off RB.
What drives its beauty? Light return.

Lets compare it to an asscher..
What drives its beauty.. patterns and fire.

Is a asscher that has lets say 80% of the brightness of the square h&a an ugly diamond?
Is a square h&a that has 1/10 the broad flash fire of an asscher an ugly diamond?

Light return is just one metric to Evaluate Cut. It is simplest metric what should not been used like final grade for any cut( and for RBC too)



Cut grade metricsñ should evaluate '' diamond Life''= combination Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire ( ability cut to catch one source light in room and present it to consumers in best way)



scores for Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire should be open and independent.
Each consumer can select best for Him Taste combination Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire scores
Integrated score could be different for different market niches( ring, ear-ring, night club diamond)

best diamonds should have nice combination big and small virtual facets( big rare flashes for Fire, + a lot of small flashes for scintillation in same time)




Serg..., I am getting a bit confused
33.gif
...

If you issue a "score" to the appearance of a fancy cut (based on the above parameters)..., how will the consumer be able to differentiate (or make an independant decision?)??? Naturally the weight will be shifted towards the "best score"..., who will decide the best score = best beauty???
 
Date: 11/8/2008 11:30:28 AM
Author: DiaGem

Date: 11/8/2008 10:53:11 AM
Author: Serg


Date: 11/8/2008 10:15:43 AM
Author: strmrdr



Date: 11/8/2008 10:09:12 AM
Author: Serg

Karl,


What critical difference Do you see?



Lets compare Square h&a that is basically a squared off RB.
What drives its beauty? Light return.

Lets compare it to an asscher..
What drives its beauty.. patterns and fire.

Is a asscher that has lets say 80% of the brightness of the square h&a an ugly diamond?
Is a square h&a that has 1/10 the broad flash fire of an asscher an ugly diamond?


Light return is just one metric to Evaluate Cut. It is simplest metric what should not been used like final grade for any cut( and for RBC too)




Cut grade metricsñ should evaluate '' diamond Life''= combination Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire ( ability cut to catch one source light in room and present it to consumers in best way)




scores for Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire should be open and independent.
Each consumer can select best for Him Taste combination Brilliancy, Scintillation, Fire scores
Integrated score could be different for different market niches( ring, ear-ring, night club diamond)


best diamonds should have nice combination big and small virtual facets( big rare flashes for Fire, + a lot of small flashes for scintillation in same time)




Serg..., I am getting a bit confused
33.gif
...

If you issue a ''score'' to the appearance of a fancy cut (based on the above parameters)..., how will the consumer be able to differentiate (or make an independant decision?)??? Naturally the weight will be shifted towards the ''best score''..., who will decide the best score = best beauty???
Diagem,

See for example

Princess has


1) Brilliancy score 8
2) Scintillation score 11
3) Fire score 7

H&A has


4) Brilliancy score 9
5) Scintillation score 6
6) Fire score 8

New cut 1 has


7) Brilliancy score 8
8) Scintillation score 12
9) Fire score 7

New cut 2 has


H&A RBC has


10) Brilliancy score 9
11) Scintillation score 7
12) Fire score 8

Consumer who prefer H&A to princess cut will take( consider ) New cut 2
Consumer who prefer Princess cut to H&A RBC will take( consider ) New cut1

what wine do you prefer? Do you dring wine, Beer ??
 
Date: 11/8/2008 11:53:16 AM
Author: Serg

Date: 11/8/2008 11:30:28 AM
Author: DiaGem
Serg..., I am getting a bit confused
33.gif
...

If you issue a ''score'' to the appearance of a fancy cut (based on the above parameters)..., how will the consumer be able to differentiate (or make an independant decision?)??? Naturally the weight will be shifted towards the ''best score''..., who will decide the best score = best beauty???

Diagem,

See for example

Princess has



1) Brilliancy score 8
2) Scintillation score 11
3) Fire score 7

H&A has



4) Brilliancy score 9
5) Scintillation score 6
6) Fire score 8

New cut 1 has



7) Brilliancy score 8
8) Scintillation score 12
9) Fire score 7

New cut 2 has



H&A RBC has



10) Brilliancy score 9
11) Scintillation score 7
12) Fire score 8


Consumer who prefer H&A to princess cut will take( consider ) New cut 2
Consumer who prefer Princess cut to H&A RBC will take( consider ) New cut1

what wine do you prefer? Do you dring wine, Beer ??
How do you score (or market) Dia cuts that are based on other factors of beauty (where Brilliance/Scint/Fire is of less importance)?
 
Date: 11/8/2008 5:36:02 AM
Author: DiaGem

Date: 11/8/2008 5:09:58 AM
Author: Serg



1) Real consumer Education.
a. Open discussions with Labs Are Labs even interested?
b. Consumer connoisseur groups
c. Use marketing strategy from Vine market
2) Fancy cuts , 3D light performance grade with Same rules for all cuts
a. Grading for Cutter Houses Brands
b. Score for Luxury Brands diamond.( MontBlanc , Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Escada ,) I dont think Luxury brands that came up with patented cuts are interested in Lab''s scoring their Patented branded Diamonds..., (but I might be wrong...)
3) Grading the facet flatness . I think it is very important for brilliancy and fire. Most probably what H&A diamonds are more bright due better facet flatness .Good flatness is much more important for optics than smoothing.
4) Milkyness( transparency )
5) Color grade from table(
for colorless diamonds) I dont think it should be graded only from the table..., just as I dont think fancy colored Diamonds should be graded only from the table...., these grades are not 100%...
6) Objective clarity grade( Full 3D model with 3D inclusions .)
a. It will help change diamond stock to sempolish stock and work according orders like in other industries ( usually you order car for your specific demands: color, music, motor, leather upholstery,..)
7) Objective color grade for color fancy diamonds( I remember answer and reason)
Serg..., how would you objectively grade the color for fancy colored Diamonds?
 

Diagem,

Re: How do you score (or market) Dia cuts that are based on other factors of beauty (where Brilliance/Scint/Fire is of less importance)?

I have not any agenda to score Shape, Pattern ,..


For example main current difference between MontBlanc and Louis Vuitton cuts is shape( according to Brand Logo)
But scores of Brilliance/Scint/Fire are important for promotion and consumer selection Brands between MontBlanc and Louis Vuitton.

You use same scores to select car for you. but you use other motivation too. Its not contradictive . It is Help do best selection for you and spend minimum time
 
Date: 11/8/2008 12:16:02 PM
Author: Serg


Diagem,

Re: How do you score (or market) Dia cuts that are based on other factors of beauty (where Brilliance/Scint/Fire is of less importance)?

I have not any agenda to score Shape, Pattern ,..



For example main current difference between MontBlanc and Louis Vuitton cuts is shape( according to Brand Logo)
But scores of Brilliance/Scint/Fire are important for promotion and consumer selection Brands between MontBlanc and Louis Vuitton.

You use same scores to select car for you. but you use other motivation too. Its not contradictive . It is Help do best selection for you and spend minimum time
For halting the thread jack:

I started a new thread for: Brainstorming new innovative Diamond grading ideas: Everyone is welcome to shoot ideas;-)

At: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/brainstorming-new-innovative-diamond-grading-ideas.99441/
 
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