shape
carat
color
clarity

Calling for antique emerald cut experts - close to pulling the trigger on 4+ carat stone!

Ready to go on the center stone purchase. My jeweler contact is actually sourcing the diamond from a contact of his that is based out of state.

Ignorant question, but aside from a complete invoice is there anything else I should request from the seller before initiating the wire payment? Is there anything specific I should have included on the invoice aside from obvious details (e.g., description of item with GIA cert #, total cost, etc.)? Note the diamond is already here local with my jeweler contact.
 
Double prong vs. tab is definitely a good detail to attend to.

One is more authentic to antique inspiration, one is more modern. Both need to be “done well” in order to be minimalistic. Again, pushing for highly skilled bench people is what you need to do. Be specific. “I want the claws as sharp and thin as possible without losing structural integrity”.
 
Ready to go on the center stone purchase. My jeweler contact is actually sourcing the diamond from a contact of his that is based out of state.

Ignorant question, but aside from a complete invoice is there anything else I should request from the seller before initiating the wire payment? Is there anything specific I should have included on the invoice aside from obvious details (e.g., description of item with GIA cert #, total cost, etc.)? Note the diamond is already here local with my jeweler contact.

Be sure you get the original GIA cert, not a copy. I’d also request an insurance appraisal (specify a realistic one… oftentimes they over-inflate the value) as you’ll want that taken care of/insured before sending your stone to DK.

Congrats on finalizing the purchase!!!

Tab or double-prongs would look nice. Tab is more vintage, double-prong is more modern. As has been said, if you do prongs be sure to specify thin and sharp!

Yes, most likely your frenchies will need to be custom cut. They’re very unique and not typically stocked. And take the great advice that was given and make sure their color is close to K so they compliment vs compete!
 
Update - seller is good with my offer! Should hopefully have everything finalized with the diamond purchase tomorrow! Not going to share more on that (at least until it's finalized and done) but was able to get the price reduced a bit!

I am planning on using the same jeweler for the setting as of now, but I am open to other suggestions. He seemed pretty confident in his ability to deliver on the setting based on the inspo ring photos I've shared with him. I give him immense credit for sourcing this diamond for me, but at first impression of his website I don’t get the sense he is as "design forward" as some of the others suggested here.

I reached out to David Klass this afternoon by phone and sent them an email after with everything on the project. Hoping to hear back from them tomorrow with more. One thing they mentioned on the phone today that did concern me (not about the jeweler, but about my ask and timeline) is that they would likely need to custom cut the French cut side stone diamonds, which will obviously take a bit longer. I haven't thought about this possibility up until now.

My issue is this - I have about 4 weeks total from today to get this completely finished in time to meet my ideal timeline. This is largely on me because of how long this diamond search has taken. I obviously don't want to rush this last, important stage given all the time invested in this to date, but this is a pretty firm deadline for me unless everyone tells me it is definitely going to take longer.

A couple questions for this group:
- I assume most of the model design will be done in CAD. What does this typically mean for how much of the setting is machine fabricated versus hand made? I've always assumed fine details like millegrain, etc. would be hand finished but not familiar with how designers typically handle the overall project. Noted regarding Victor Canera in the posts above.
- Regarding the French cut diamonds for side stones. Would you expect these needing to be custom cut for the ring or is it reasonable to assume they can be sourced ready made? I can share more photos of the inspo ring, but don't believe these will require real custom work (e.g., tapering stone dimensions for the ones that go partially down the band)
- Am I crazy to think four weeks (max) is an unrealistic timeline for the mounting? I understand this will be partially dependent on the amount of time spent on iterations with locking in the design before moving into production.

I will reach out to Victor Canera tomorrow morning as well to get another perspective. Hopefully after everything is locked down with the center stone!

Here are some photos of the inspo ring again for reference. Welcome any thoughts or feedback on this design as I recognize this ring is with a diamond that has a 1.28 l/w ratio vs. my selected diamond that has a 1.18 l/w ratio (and I also think a little more sharply cut cornered edges). I am curious to get thoughts on the tab prongs for this style diamond.

Diamond 4.jpgDiamond 5.jpgDiamond 6.jpgDiamond 3.JPG

I was just checking DK’s account to see if he had an example with frenchies, and he’s actually made a very similar ring to your inspo already except this one also has a halo. So ignore that aspect and see if you like the overall outcome.

 
I am obsessed with tab prongs on emerald cuts and think they emphasize clipped corners better than double claws personally. Also tabs are less likely to catch on things, which is the bane of my personal existence with the claw prongs on ring (made by one of the excellent recommended vendors in this thread; it’s just the nature of the beast).
 
@BlingDreams makes an excellent point about insurance. If you provide an appraisal for the diamond and a quote/invoice for the setting then Jewelers Mutual will insure your diamond during the setting process. Just FYI jewelry makers do not as a rule offer insurance against damage during setting for diamonds they do not own. So you will need it in this case unless you want to just roll those dice.
 
I am obsessed with tab prongs on emerald cuts and think they emphasize clipped corners better than double claws personally. Also tabs are less likely to catch on things, which is the bane of my personal existence with the claw prongs on ring (made by one of the excellent recommended vendors in this thread; it’s just the nature of the beast).

Thanks for this. My jeweler contact mentioned one concern of doing double claws on this style diamond is that the diamond may be less protected from chipping. Anyone have thoughts on that?

If I were to keep tab prongs for this diamond, I assume the corners are deep enough where you would still see some of them exposed? Maybe I am thinking about prong design incorrectly, but I feel like you'd want at least some of the corners showing out of the ends to emphasize the diamond shape?

Update on the process. DK confirmed he would be able to source the custom French cuts in matching color (I or J could work too) and meet my timeline. My jeweler contact had already started working on a CAD to show me while we were finalizing the diamond purchase. I am inclined to at least see what he pulls together by end of today/tomorrow before moving forward with DK. I recognize everyone here has provided DK with a strong endorsement. When I first started the conversation with the jeweler I am using for the diamond purchase, I let him know I would be open to using him for the mounting (assuming he could do it). This may result in a bit of an awkward conversation to just take the diamond and part ways, but obviously need to do what's best.
 
Have you seen examples of settings your jeweler friend has made that are similar to what you are after? Have you examined them in person and with a loupe? Making a CAD is one thing. Execution is another. Most Jewelers cannot execute a setting to the level of quality that we expect here on PS. An awkward conversation is a passing moment. A botched setting is a royal PITA!
 
Thanks for this. My jeweler contact mentioned one concern of doing double claws on this style diamond is that the diamond may be less protected from chipping. Anyone have thoughts on that?

If I were to keep tab prongs for this diamond, I assume the corners are deep enough where you would still see some of them exposed? Maybe I am thinking about prong design incorrectly, but I feel like you'd want at least some of the corners showing out of the ends to emphasize the diamond shape?

Update on the process. DK confirmed he would be able to source the custom French cuts in matching color (I or J could work too) and meet my timeline. My jeweler contact had already started working on a CAD to show me while we were finalizing the diamond purchase. I am inclined to at least see what he pulls together by end of today/tomorrow before moving forward with DK. I recognize everyone here has provided DK with a strong endorsement. When I first started the conversation with the jeweler I am using for the diamond purchase, I let him know I would be open to using him for the mounting (assuming he could do it). This may result in a bit of an awkward conversation to just take the diamond and part ways, but obviously need to do what's best.

My ering is an emerald cut. I had single prong and reset with double prong for the added protection.
 
I have double prongs on my EC as well. They are very tiny and I haven't had any snagging issues. Here's a very enlarged photo.
IMG_5371.jpg
 
Hi,

Over the past month I have been trying to familiarize myself more with antique emerald cut (or "cut-cornered rectangular step cut) diamonds as part of trying to find an ideal center stone for an engagement ring. This process started with browsing antique diamond options (old mine, old euro, etc.) until my girlfriend saw a particular ring that she instantly fell for and I am now trying to recreate. Image of that one is at the bottom of this post.

I started this search with the goal in mind of trying to keep the center stone budget under 6 figures, if possible, with the understanding I'd have some flexibility if the perfect stone came along. In addition to the general grade targets below, what I cared about finding the most is the following: i) reasonably clipped corner cuts (not too boxy), ii) length to width ratio of 1.15x to 1.3x (nothing too square like a traditional Asscher and nothing too rectangular like a modern emerald), iii) open culet , and iv) facets that you can see overhead that are nearly "touching windmills" that almost connect in the center but all connect at the open culet.

On the stats, I was hoping to find a stone with 4.5-5.0 carat weight, VS2 to VVS2 clarity (somewhat flexible), and I color or higher.

Here is a shortlist of diamonds I've been able to narrow it down to (carat, color, clarity - length x width x height - depth, table)
  1. 5.05, G, VVS1 - 10.47 x 8.96 x 6.57 - 73.3%, 55.0% - GIA link
    • Note - this one is a bit higher than my original budget
  2. 4.07, F, SI1 - 10.48 x 8.04 x 5.72 - 71.2%, 61.0% - GIA link
    • Note - this is the top contender on the list right now that I am very close to moving forward on
    • It's an SI1 but from photos and videos from jeweler, it appears to be pretty clean with inclusions in the corner pocket (covered by prong) and non visible cloud. It also seems to have less height than others that results in length and width suggesting it appears a bit bigger and closer to some of the larger stones on the list
  3. 4.09, G, VS1 - 8.84 x 8.16 x 6.58 - 80.6%, 48.0% - GIA link
    • Note - has medium blue fluorescence.
    • This is about as square as I'd be willing to go and not super ideal to me. Also, without being an expert on this style, the depth and table ratios are a bit of an outlier compared to many others I have seen
  4. 4.46, K, IF - 9.85 x 8.51 x 6.45 - 75.8%, 47.0% - (no online GIA link due to date of report, but have seen report)
    • Note - has medium blue fluorescence.
    • I am thinking this one is on my short list but need to see in person due to color. Was told it is a very "white" K and guessing fluorescence might help with this, but I am a bit skeptical until I can see this one with my own eyes.
    • Based on measurements, this one might look a bit "small" due to more weight down below?
Video links: side by side of diamond 2 (4.07 F) and diamond 1 (5.05 G) (link), diamond 2 in office (link), diamond 2 in office near window (link), and diamond 1 in office lighting (link). Note - ignore the setting the 4.07 stone is currently in.

I don't want to post exact prices (happy to provide more on that if helpful in getting more feedback). Option 4 is the cheapest (and about 25% and 30% cheaper than options 2 and 3, respectively), followed by Option 2 (9% cheaper than Option 3), then Option 3, the Option 1. All but Option 1 are within my budget, with Option 4 very comfortably in budget likely due to color.

I recognize these stats are all over the place a bit, but it's been a function of checking with a lot of jewelers and seeing what's available that meets my general requirements (the open culet, length to width ratio, facet appearance, etc.). It's taken a lot of leg work to narrow down to even this list of wide stats.

I welcome any input on these from anyone that's an expert in antique emerald cuts and are familiar with this 1.15x - 1.3x length to width ratio I am going for. Keen to hear any thoughts on dimensions for these carat weights, depth and table stats, etc.

Also, image below of the antique setting I'm looking to recreate (includes French-cut side stones). Note that the diamond in this particular ring is ~4.75-4.8 carats with dimensions of 11.07 x 8.65 x 6.11 (length, width, height). It has a 1.28x length to width ratio. With that in mind, I think diamond 2 above is a great "close match" in what I am trying to accomplish here.

Ring 3.jpg

The F SI1 looks fabulous. I would make the seller put in writing that it does not have visible flaws or he /she will pay return shipping. That would be a devastating turn of events. Any chance you can get your eye on it? A couple fingerprints on the diamond can make a peeker peek out. In the real world, that will happen if there is a visible hiding behind the brilliance.
 
The F SI1 looks fabulous. I would make the seller put in writing that it does not have visible flaws or he /she will pay return shipping. That would be a devastating turn of events. Any chance you can get your eye on it? A couple fingerprints on the diamond can make a peeker peek out. In the real world, that will happen if there is a visible hiding behind the brilliance.

Thanks. I agree it is a great looking diamond. I unfortunately didn't get to see that one in person as the seller that had it is in NY and I did not decide to move forward with an in-person inspection of it by putting down a refundable payment.

I just moved forward with this 5.69 carat K VS1 (link). Here is another one where it is on the left (link) as well as one of it outside in the shade (link) and under sunlight (link) that I shared in some of my previous posts.

Wire was received today so the 5.69 is officially mine!
 
Thanks. I agree it is a great looking diamond. I unfortunately didn't get to see that one in person as the seller that had it is in NY and I did not decide to move forward with an in-person inspection of it by putting down a refundable payment.

I just moved forward with this 5.69 carat K VS1 (link). Here is another one where it is on the left (link) as well as one of it outside in the shade (link) and under sunlight (link) that I shared in some of my previous posts.

Wire was received today so the 5.69 is officially mine!

Yayyyyyyy
 
Update.

Spoke to my jeweler that has the diamond - diamond is going off to DK tomorrow! I don't know why I was dreading that conversation, but he was totally fine with everything.

I've been in touch with Amy at DK. She should hopefully have an initial model for me to review by end of tomorrow. She also has everything already lined up on the custom French cut side and shank diamonds. Just needs to see the center stone in person first before we lock in on color grade for the side and shank diamonds, as well as their size once we get ratios figured out on the design.

Excited to have them working on the mounting after reading all the strong recommendations here. Sounds like I am in great hands to meet this tight deadline!
 
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Update.

Spoke to my jeweler that has the diamond - diamond is going off to DK tomorrow! I don't know why I was dreading that conversation, but he was totally fine with everything.

I've been in touch with Amy at DK. She should hopefully have an initial model for me to review by end of tomorrow. She also has everything already lined up on the custom French cut side and shank diamonds. Just needs to see the center stone in person first before we lock in on color grade for the side and shank diamonds, as well as their size once we get ratios figured out on the design.

Excited to have them working on the mounting after reading all the strong recommendations here. Sounds like I am in great hands to meet this tight deadline!

I'm glad it wasn't awkward with your jeweler. That was probably a bit of a relief for you since he found you such a great stone. Amy and David work fast so you will have your CAD when she said you would. Post it here if you want comments, but again, don't dawdle too much being indecisive. You're giving them a very short time frame considering the custom cuts so you need to move quickly, just like you want them to. Can't wait to see the CAD tomorrow! This is exciting!
 
This ring is going to be amazing!
 
Damn, I knew Amy was fast but didn’t know THAT fast! Already has the custom cut stones ready? Phew!

Told ya they’re miracle workers when it comes to speed!! The perk of working with a team that has tonsssssss of different people contracted with them. They’ve always got someone or another to do every tiny piece of the job! They remind of me an orchestra conductor— they delegate out to the first chairs of every instrument in the orchestra, and bam, it’s sweet sweet music.

Can’t wait to see it all come to fruition!
 
Update.

Spoke to my jeweler that has the diamond - diamond is going off to DK tomorrow! I don't know why I was dreading that conversation, but he was totally fine with everything.

I've been in touch with Amy at DK. She should hopefully have an initial model for me to review by end of tomorrow. She also has everything already lined up on the custom French cut side and shank diamonds. Just needs to see the center stone in person first before we lock in on color grade for the side and shank diamonds, as well as their size once we get ratios figured out on the design.

Excited to have them working on the mounting after reading all the strong recommendations here. Sounds like I am in great hands to meet this tight deadline!

So excited to see this project! Congratulations! It's going to be a real knockout.

Have you decided on double claw vs tab prongs?

It won't protect the corners, but you can also do N/S/E/W tabs instead of ones on the corners, like this ring at Lang. Experts may have opinions on the safety, I just think it's pretty and shows off the shape:
art-deco-3-89-carat-emerald-cut-diamond-ring-gia-d-vs1_3_10-3-14364.jpg


Here's another ring at Lang with double prongs and French cuts, though DK's uber bench would be able to make them more delicate if that's what you want:

lang-collection-colombian-no-treatment-6-16-carat-emerald-and-diamond-ring-gia_6_30-11-14031.jpg


Tabs smaller than the corners:
mid-century-8-00-carat-no-heat-emerald-cut-ceylon-sapphire-ring_1_30-3-12659.jpg
 
Congratulations on your engagement!

What a stunning stone you’ve picked - and a dreamy inspo piece :love:

Claws vs double claws vs tab?
Since you are going with DKJ you have the luxury of scrolling thru their Instagram of past actual projects. Pictures, not renderings. You’ll find many different ‘flavors’ of each prong style.
A picture is worth a thousand words - even if it’s showing them something you don’t favor.

You’ll find less versions of tabs - but enough variation is still there to view.

I can understand the desire to ask them for a specific bench to use (Uber) but if that may differ of who made the examples of what past projects (/prongs) call to you from their portfolio - it’s conflicting requests.

Again - stunning stone and hope you show the finished product!

If you are counting votes - Team tab!!!!!!
:lol:

Eta- one of the ‘Uber’ benches that’s been talked about re DKJ, typically wouldn’t fit into the 4week timeframe. I think DKJ considers more than one benches he utilizes, his Uber.
 
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I'm glad it wasn't awkward with your jeweler. That was probably a bit of a relief for you since he found you such a great stone. Amy and David work fast so you will have your CAD when she said you would. Post it here if you want comments, but again, don't dawdle too much being indecisive. You're giving them a very short time frame considering the custom cuts so you need to move quickly, just like you want them to. Can't wait to see the CAD tomorrow! This is exciting!
Agreed. I intend to share the CAD model(s) here to get feedback. I mentioned to Amy the inspo ring is a great starting point but I obviously welcome any thoughts from her and her team. Given we are starting from scratch, we have the benefit of doing whatever we want with it. That said, I think it is pretty stunning as is. Only thing I am really wondering about are the prongs. She mentioned she could show me traditional tab, double claw, and "double tab" options. I am guessing double tabs would be similar to double claws, just more rounded and not as tapered/pointy on the tips.

Damn, I knew Amy was fast but didn’t know THAT fast! Already has the custom cut stones ready? Phew!

Told ya they’re miracle workers when it comes to speed!! The perk of working with a team that has tonsssssss of different people contracted with them. They’ve always got someone or another to do every tiny piece of the job! They remind of me an orchestra conductor— they delegate out to the first chairs of every instrument in the orchestra, and bam, it’s sweet sweet music.

Can’t wait to see it all come to fruition!
It was definitely a relief to hear given the tight timeline here! To be clear, the custom cut stones aren't ready to go yet, they just confirmed they have access to something that should work for them in the color range we need and in time for my deadline. She mentioned they will be able to lock in on color once they have the centerstone and could potentially go as colorless as G. Just depends on how colorless they think my centerstone is face up.

So excited to see this project! Congratulations! It's going to be a real knockout.

Have you decided on double claw vs tab prongs?

It won't protect the corners, but you can also do N/S/E/W tabs instead of ones on the corners, like this ring at Lang. Experts may have opinions on the safety, I just think it's pretty and shows off the shape:
art-deco-3-89-carat-emerald-cut-diamond-ring-gia-d-vs1_3_10-3-14364.jpg


Here's another ring at Lang with double prongs and French cuts, though DK's uber bench would be able to make them more delicate if that's what you want:

lang-collection-colombian-no-treatment-6-16-carat-emerald-and-diamond-ring-gia_6_30-11-14031.jpg


Tabs smaller than the corners:
mid-century-8-00-carat-no-heat-emerald-cut-ceylon-sapphire-ring_1_30-3-12659.jpg
Thanks for these examples! Seeing a real example of tab prongs that don't entirely cover the clipped corners is very helpful! If I go with the double claw prongs, I would definitely want them more delicate than that example, but it's helpful to see.

I know neither of us are fans of the N/S/E/W or compass tab prongs in almost all cases. Funny tangential story on that actually...

Months ago when she first started telling me about her love for antique cut diamonds, this Edwardian OEC was the "inspo ring" she was swooning over (IG link). The only thing about that ring she wasn't fully sold on were the compass prongs. She had the opportunity to see this one and many other Edwardian mountings with OMC and OEC round diamonds. I myself always thought I would only consider round diamonds, and at that point thought looking into OMC and OECs instead of modern round brilliants was far enough outside of my comfort zone. Then we stumbled into the world of antique step cuts together (specifically like the options I've shared throughout this thread) and were instantly captivated! My search would have been much simpler if we stayed in the round realm, but I am glad I ended up here!

Congratulations on your engagement!

What a stunning stone you’ve picked - and a dreamy inspo piece :love:

Claws vs double claws vs tab?
Since you are going with DKJ you have the luxury of scrolling thru their Instagram of past actual projects. Pictures, not renderings. You’ll find many different ‘flavors’ of each prong style.
A picture is worth a thousand words - even if it’s showing them something you don’t favor.

You’ll find less versions of tabs - but enough variation is still there to view.

I can understand the desire to ask them for a specific bench to use (Uber) but if that may differ of who made the examples of what past projects (/prongs) call to you from their portfolio - it’s conflicting requests.

Again - stunning stone and hope you show the finished product!

If you are counting votes - Team tab!!!!!!
:lol:

Eta- one of the ‘Uber’ benches that’s been talked about re DKJ, typically wouldn’t fit into the 4week timeframe. I think DKJ considers more than one benches he utilizes, his Uber.
Thanks for this. Will certainly keep everyone updated in this thread! It's been such a journey and I finally feel like I am getting to the fun part where I start to see this ring go from a dream to reality!
 
First CAD model is here! She mentioned it is a basic start and does not include detail such as the millgrain on this model.

The two priority items I'd love initial thoughts on from experts here are 1) size of the side/shank diamonds relative to the center stone, and 2) any immediate reactions to the general amount of metal/"thickness" for this mounting. On #1, I know getting the ratio right is tough and I am just not an expert on this. On #2, maybe its because there is no millgrain on the model, but my initial reaction was "that's a lot of metal" when I see the borders around the side stones, shank stones, and overall thickness of the gallery rail. Maybe this because there is no millgrain yet, so everything looks thicker without the added detail? For reference, I've included a few more close up shots of the inspo ring below the model for reference.

The double claw prongs up from the gallery rail are growing on me. With the inspo ring, these two pieces of metal up from each corner of the gallery rail come back together to form a tab prong, but I am digging the complete "split" in this design. I think I might want them to taper a little more at the tips, but I might just be looking at the CAD incorrectly.

I think I'd also like further tweak the metal around the shoulder as it comes down and converges with the shank (based on my review of the side profile perspective in the bottom left image of the CAD). Looks too chunky in this initial model to me. See second to last image for close up side profile of inspo ring for comparison.

Note - CAD model in first image. Rest of images are close ups of inspo ring.
Design 1 - 2024.03.28.jpg

Ring 5.JPG
 

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CADs generally make the metal look wider. Let me look for an example of CAD vs finished. Maybe someone else has one handy.
edit. this isn't really comparable as the stones and ring are so different but you can see the difference in the CAD and finished ring. I'm hoping someone has a better example for a ring more like yours.

I like how the prongs on your CAD come up best.
 

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There are some great CAD experts like @Niel who can help..

But I want to point out that the antique inspiration ring was likely fabricated using a method like die struck or perhaps hand fabrication, both of which result in a more delicate look than can often be achieved with CAD and cast methods. As well it is 100 years old and the metal has likely worn down some in that time.

There are makers who can achieve that delicate look but they take 3-6 months typically for the mount to be created.

The finished product will be much more delicate than the CAD because the casting is thicker to allow metal to be polished away during hand finishing. As well be sure to look at the scale. For example the rails either side of the diamonds on the shank appear to be about 1/2mm. The cross bar is 1mm. Which is very thin indeed.
 
First CAD model is here! She mentioned it is a basic start and does not include detail such as the millgrain on this model.

The two priority items I'd love initial thoughts on from experts here are 1) size of the side/shank diamonds relative to the center stone, and 2) any immediate reactions to the general amount of metal/"thickness" for this mounting. On #1, I know getting the ratio right is tough and I am just not an expert on this. On #2, maybe its because there is no millgrain on the model, but my initial reaction was "that's a lot of metal" when I see the borders around the side stones, shank stones, and overall thickness of the gallery rail. Maybe this because there is no millgrain yet, so everything looks thicker without the added detail? For reference, I've included a few more close up shots of the inspo ring below the model for reference.

The double claw prongs up from the gallery rail are growing on me. With the inspo ring, these two pieces of metal up from each corner of the gallery rail come back together to form a tab prong, but I am digging the complete "split" in this design. I think I might want them to taper a little more at the tips, but I might just be looking at the CAD incorrectly.

I think I'd also like further tweak the metal around the shoulder as it comes down and converges with the shank (based on my review of the side profile perspective in the bottom left image of the CAD). Looks too chunky in this initial model to me. See second to last image for close up side profile of inspo ring for comparison.

Note - CAD model in first image. Rest of images are close ups of inspo ring.
Design 1 - 2024.03.28.jpg

Ring 5.JPG

To my eyes, I think the side stones need to be slightly bigger. Because the center stone is so large, right now they appear to almost get lost in that size. Maybe 20% larger? I think the amount of metal is fine; it’ll look more delicate once the milgrain is done. I also think the double prongs came out fine, but (again, just my opinion) I think it would be a shame to not do tabs. They really help define the crisp corners and are authentic to the time period of the diamond.
 
It's way thinner in actuality than it looks in the CAD.

It's the thinnest I would go for width and I wouldn't want it any thinner than 1.8mm for depth or else you're looking at integrity issues over time. You could knock it hard and it'd bend out of round.
There is such a thing as too thin. I know super delicate is the popular du jour of the last decade. I would only do that for more 'fashion rings'.
You want this ring to stand up to decades.

I would actually bump the width to 2mm(keep the depth at 1.8mm), but that's me.
 
It's way thinner in actuality than it looks in the CAD.

It's the thinnest I would go for width and I wouldn't want it any thinner than 1.8mm for depth or else you're looking at integrity issues over time. You could knock it hard and it'd bend out of round.
There is such a thing as too thin. I know super delicate is the popular du jour of the last decade. I would only do that for more 'fashion rings'.
You want this ring to stand up to decades.

I would actually bump the width to 2mm(keep the depth at 1.8mm), but that's me.

The width appears to be about 2.5 by the stone and taper to 1.8 at the palm size. Are you suggesting widening the palm side?

I agree with making the shank a little wider so the diamonds are larger fwiw
 
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