Early 20th century French sapphire rings

[bella3x]

I’m going down a sapphire rabbit hole now. And this might be a thread for the antique jewellery subforum, but I thought that colored stones connoisseurs are more likely to have the answers.

I really love the looks of French antique (vintage?) rings from 1920s-1930s. Usually white gold or platinum, daisy/scalloped/straight diamond halo etc. And plenty of those online to admire.

One question that has been bothering me though: the sapphires in these rings tend to be really-really dark, basically inky black. And that is not “trade ideal”, from what I understand. Have sapphire color preferences been different before? Or am I missing something? Why and how did they happen to be all almost black? It’s pure curiosity, but I just can’t get it out of my head

Attaching an example of a ring like that, currently for sale online.

 

[LilAlex]

Inken had this one some years ago (now sold) -- French and about your era. A little over-loved and the sapphire is of course not precision-cut but the color is a medium tone, of fairly strong saturation, and in the right light almost an electric blue. Fleur-de-lys motif between the prongs. A really lovely ring in unplated white gold.

I am showing it just as a counterpoint to your "really, really dark" comment. It's possible that most truly are -- I do not have a lot of experience with French rings of that era.

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

You just have to hunt, or pay the premium.
I know what you mean, there is a fluctuating love of ink colored stones throughout time. There is still a preference for darker stones in different places. It's just taste or influence. History and events have real impact on adornment preferences/accessibility.
*Me in my head- very cool, but I don't want that color!
I find it a little frustrating because I'll love the mounts and feel ambivalent about the stones in them, but don't feel right breaking up a ring in great shape. The ones I find with medium blues are either:
A. way overpriced B. too small C. horribly windowed D. damaged stones(either lab or natural) E. things, it's always something.

 

[Rfisher]

Along with the trade ideal colors being just plainly less abundant than the inky ones -
I think there’s also the possibility they were taken out of their mountings and repurposed in other/modern settings. The darker ones weren’t - hence they are found more often.

 

[bella3x]

@LilAlex, wow, this is one bright sapphire! Not many of those in the older rings I’ve seen online.

@ItsMainelyYou, these A to E reasons are quite depressing… Luckily for me, I actually seem to prefer darker sapphires (based on my tiny 3-sapphire sample size), just am not sure if that dark.

@Rfisher, thank you! That is actually a very reasonable and logical explanation. Scouring websites in French, I keep stumbling upon these dark-dark sapphires, and maybe also the non-dark ones that are still around get sold too quickly to get noticed.

 

[LilAlex]

Just poking around Berganza, I see these. Most are early 20th century and all are French. I did not select for the more vivid ones; I just screenshot all the French ones I saw on a quick look. I see plenty of bright and lighter-tone examples. Maybe that is what Berganza buys -- all are unheated and they are, um, fully priced.

 

[bella3x]

Some of these are really pretty!! But to be fair, I was talking about no name 1920s-1930s French rings, not big names like Mauboussin or Boucheron… I guess this could also be an explanation: big names would have first dibs, while the rest would have to use “leftover” darker or, alternatively, synthetic sapphires when creating their pieces. Sounds plausible to me

 

[RRfromR]

I’m going down a sapphire rabbit hole now. And this might be a thread for the antique jewellery subforum, but I thought that colored stones connoisseurs are more likely to have the answers.

I really love the looks of French antique (vintage?) rings from 1920s-1930s. Usually white gold or platinum, daisy/scalloped/straight diamond halo etc. And plenty of those online to admire.

One question that has been bothering me though: the sapphires in these rings tend to be really-really dark, basically inky black. And that is not “trade ideal”, from what I understand. Have sapphire color preferences been different before? Or am I missing something? Why and how did they happen to be all almost black? It’s pure curiosity, but I just can’t get it out of my head

Attaching an example of a ring like that, currently for sale online.

I don't know your budget, but would these work?

Ovale Bleu Saphir Diamant Platine Bague Art Déco Français Coupe Baguette Naturel | eBay

Les meilleures offres pour Ovale Bleu Saphir Diamant Platine Bague Art Déco Français Coupe Baguette Naturel sont sur eBay ✓ Comparez les prix et les spécificités des produits neufs et d'occasion ✓ Pleins d'articles en livraison gratuite!

www.ebay.fr

0.86ct Sapphire and 0.66ct Diamond, 18ct White Gold Cluster Ring - Antique | eBay

This stunning, fine and impressive antique sapphire and diamond ring has been crafted in 18ct white gold and platinum. This stunning antique cluster ring is excellent quality, set with an impressive feature sapphire displaying fine colour, brilliance, and presence.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[momofive]

Oh, I think the top one is beautiful.

 

[LilAlex]

Oh, I think the top one is beautiful.

Modern and made in LA? Only the ad is French. Pretty ring, though.

 

[RRfromR]

Modern and made in LA? Only the ad is French. Pretty ring, though.

Oh, I didn't even notice that. OP, look for Edwardian or La Belle Epoque as search words. The period that you mention covered this and also Art Deco. I know it's hard to find Art Deco jewelry now, as it is so popular.