Need help calculating melee for odd shaped stone

[Odyssey44]

I want to buy some pink sapphire or spinel melee for these amethysts to make them into a pendant. I do not want to lose the angles on the stones and after putting the angled stone halo on I want the pendant sitting on vintage look carved platinum that keeps the stone's angles. So... the small stone has the following mm circumference measurements from angle to angle--5, 3, 3, 6, 3, 3 all times 2. The bigger stone has the following circumference measurements from angle to angle-4, 5, 10, 10, 5, all times 2. Where I am running into trouble is this--
Do I not need to make sure the number of stones will work with both 4 and 5 mm? Doesn't this limit my melee size to less than 2mm to allow for prongs?

I calculate that I would need, for instance, 45 melee of 1.5mm for the the large stone and 8 for the small. Is this right? I would prefer at least 2 mm melee but how could I make this work while preserving the angles?

I am very stuck here and all help is appreciated! I know as a last resort I could just give it to the jeweler and say make my melee halo happen, but I am so fussy about color I want to at least try to pick my pink melee.

 

[Rfisher]

Do you have an inspo setting that shows the setting style you are hoping for?
I can mock up something that might help you, but would like some more info of the look you are going after.

Along with the size of the melee,
the prong number & placement for the center stone can also either accentuate or diminish the angularity of the footprint shape. Or not. There’s options,
Is bezel or faux bezel an option?
The halo stones as well. Are you wanting them prong/bead set in a channel or prongs by themselves?

Fun project. I ‘get’ wanting to pick your own melee.

 

[Odyssey44]

Thanks so much!! That's really nice of you. I have a few inspiration pictures, but mostly for the platinum carved part I'd like. The blue teardrop and the emerald pictures show the angularity I am after, but I want the platinum carved without diamonds, like in the amethyst picture. My stones have all those little angles though that I would like to follow, if possible.

I am totally open on how to set the colored stone halo, because I don't have an inspiration picture for that. I envision prongs by themselves for the melee, but am completely open to other ideas. I just would not want it pave set into the carved platinum layer, because I hope that can be on its own, if that makes sense. I would be open to channel setting, kind of like where the bezel is in the emerald picture. I'm excited you're helping me!!

 

[Autumn in New England]

Love these stones!! What is the L x W of each?

 

[Rfisher]

I do not want to lose the angles on the stones

If you go bezel - you’ll want to view the jewelers previous work to make sure they can accomplish a crisp bezel - not a soft float one. And state you want it to accentuate the angles.
Here’s a mock-up of prongs - I “think” the more prongs you have - especially on the ends will reduce the perception of the angular shape of the stone. Imo, at least.

 

[Rfisher]

after putting the angled stone halo on I want the pendant sitting on vintage look carved platinum that keeps the stone's angles

I think this means a halo of melee, then a halo of carved metal next to it? (Ive had this before - love it!)
If I’m correct - here’s some mock-ups and plus the disclaimer that comes with cut and paste.
If the actual ring is made not on a flat plane - it will look markedly different. The face up diameter of the melee will be reduced somewhat if it’s set at an angle. The background picture grid- one square is representative of 1mm so the melee should be in near correct scale perspective to your stone. Going off your given ammy side measurements.
It’s hard to photo a gem dead straight on, so the symmetry that I’m sure your stone has, doesn’t exactly come thru on the mock-ups.
And most importantly - even if you don’t like any of these, it’s still beneficial in cementing what you don’t want to have! Just as important when going custom.

You said you’d like to stick just to 2mm, I think you’ll have some troubles. Typically you’d want a stone at the corner or aside the corner, and being consistent one way or the other. (And if prongs come into the equation for the centerstone that is another journey to figure out their placement) I don’t think that’s possible with all melee at 2mm.
I’ve done some suggestions though.
The fill in of smaller melee, smooshing some 1mm to fill in the gap/spaces of an all 2mm halo - I think typically looks better with diamonds and white metal but I don’t think cs would be ugly tho. Tastes vary anyways.
And on these mock-ups I’ve gone and assumed the melee with be bead set with channel - like the pear pendant you pictured as inspo.

This one is 2.5 at corners and 2.0 & 1.5

 

[Rfisher]

Here I’ve added the additional carved halo, or if you squint you can imagine it’s a carved halo

One with a bezel and two with different placement prongs

 

[Rfisher]

Here’s a random thought if you’d like to exaggerate the halo shaping? Again - squint on that mock engraving and again, one with a bezel, and the other two with prongs

 

[Rfisher]

All that to say I’m sure someone smarter or more dedicated than I has a mathematical equation for a stone shape like yours - I just plop them in with cut/paste and then ask the jeweler to confirm what’s possible and what’s not.
Adding a faux bezel/cup on the center can also sometimes make a melee stone size work if otherwise it wouldn’t.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I love what you've done here, @Rfisher!! And the larger melee at each point looks fabulous. Can I compensate you to do my next one?

 

[Rfisher]

You said you’d like to stick just to 2mm, I think you’ll have some troubles. Typically you’d want a stone at the corner or aside the corner, and being consistent one way or the other. (And if prongs come into the equation for the centerstone that is another journey to figure out their placement) I don’t think that’s possible with all melee at 2mm.
I’ve done some suggestions though.
The fill in of smaller melee, smooshing some 1mm to fill in the gap/spaces of an all 2mm halo

Actually if on this one, the 1mm stones are removed - and the melee is boxed in sections of metal at each corner , again just like your pear pendant inspo picture is, you could get away with only all 2mm stones with that layout, and still have a cohesive look.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Actually if on this one, the 1mm stones are removed - and the melee is boxed in sections of metal at each corner , again just like your pear pendant inspo picture is, you could get away with only all 2mm stones with that layout, and still have a cohesive look.

Seriously, I could've really used your assistance on the pad ring... we had a heck of a time getting the marquise and rounds proportional to one another and to the ring itself. I still have no idea why it proved so difficult.

 

[Rfisher]

I’m always up for giving out opinions!

Seriously, I could've really used your assistance on the pad ring... we had a heck of a time getting the marquise and rounds proportional to one another and to the ring itself. I still have no idea why it proved so difficult.

The angle they are mounted at, I bet helped make it difficult on no little way. It’s gorgeous!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I’m always up for giving out opinions!



The angle they are mounted at, I bet helped make it difficult on no little way. It’s gorgeous!

And I also think the faux bezel complicated everything. Because we really didn't know exactly how wide it would be until it was done by hand. So it was like blindly creating a ring without knowing the center stone size. Anyway! Your mock-ups here are gorgeous!!

 

[Odyssey44]

OH MY GOODNESS!!!!!!!! I CANNOT believe how utterly BEAUTIFUL these mock ups are!!! WOW, WOW, WOW!! You have understood *exactly* what I want when it was just in my mind's eye. I am so happy I could cry!! I don't know how to thank you!! I need to look at all these more closely. Do you realize you are a wizard? You have made my weekend!!!! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! I never could have figured anything close to these pictures on my own.

 

[Odyssey44]

Truly, I love all of them. But I think my very favorites are the last drawing you did. I love the exaggerated angles--it reminds me of what I imagine the "Mirror, Mirror on the Wall" looks like in Sleeping Beauty! I actually really like how the larger melee emphasizes the corner angles. I never would have thought of that! Just to make sure my eyes are seeing correctly--that is using all 1.5 melee and 2 in the corners? You are SO talented. I am still in disbelief that you did all this for me!!

 

[Odyssey44]

I think I am leaning toward no prongs--what do you think?

 

[Odyssey44]

I love what you've done here, @Rfisher!! And the larger melee at each point looks fabulous. Can I compensate you to do my next one?

Right? I have never seen anything like this, with bigger melee in the corners! LOVE IT! What a genius!

 

[Odyssey44]

Love these stones!! What is the L x W of each?

MIssed this earlier! (Too excited looking and looking at the mock ups) At their widest points, the little one a 12.1 mm cushion and the bigger one is 24.7 x 16.7. This is going to be a smashing pendant! Just have to choose the right color melee. I may be back for opinions!

 

[Rfisher]

Truly, I love all of them. But I think my very favorites are the last drawing you did. I love the exaggerated angles--it reminds me of what I imagine the "Mirror, Mirror on the Wall" looks like in Sleeping Beauty! I actually really like how the larger melee emphasizes the corner angles. I never would have thought of that! Just to make sure my eyes are seeing correctly--that is using all 1.5 melee and 2 in the corners? You are SO talented. I am still in disbelief that you did all this for me!!

Yes, that one is 1.5 and 2. In the corners.
This is heavily influenced by a few designers that do this style well.

I think I am leaning toward no prongs--what do you think?

I would, but again with the caveat needing a crisp bezel to keep the angular shape, not a flow-y bezel.
I think the stone placement with prongs at the melee (instead of centered inbetween) might necessitate a bump up on the height of the center stone- can’t tell. But I don’t think choosing prongs is a bad idea, either. Just depends on how high the center stone is set - would be my only concern. But that’s kinda a nit picky thing, personal opinion of mine.

 

[Rfisher]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!

You are welcome. It’s fun.

 

[Cinders]

These are amazing @Rfisher ! You really have a talent for translating ideas into visuals. I'm with @Autumn in New England -- I'd happily compensate you to help me with my next projects.

 

[Rfisher]

These are amazing @Rfisher ! You really have a talent for translating ideas into visuals. I'm with @Autumn in New England -- I'd happily compensate you to help me with my next projects.

I’m honored - but I have no desire for the trade badge and the other responsibilities that comes with compensation.

I’ll always do what I can when anyone asks, if I feel I can contribute.
it’s worth what is paid for it.

 

[Odyssey44]

Yes, that one is 1.5 and 2. In the corners.
This is heavily influenced by a few designers that do this style well.



I would, but again with the caveat needing a crisp bezel to keep the angular shape, not a flow-y bezel.
I think the stone placement with prongs at the melee (instead of centered inbetween) might necessitate a bump up on the height of the center stone- can’t tell. But I don’t think choosing prongs is a bad idea, either. Just depends on how high the center stone is set - would be my only concern. But that’s kinda a nit picky thing, personal opinion of mine.

You call it nit-picky, I call it attention to detail! I think another reason the prongs might be difficult is the extreme difference in depth of the stones. The big one is really very deep! Ignore the bad lighitng-just took these to show depth.

 

[Odyssey44]

it’s worth what is paid for it.

I went to bed happy and woke up happy because of you. That is priceless!!