Poll: My ring mould came but it’s not right, what shall I do?

[T L]

I saw this Art Deco emerald ring by Harry Winston online. If you do go with a lower basket, make sure those prongs are heavy, and durable. Double prongs would be a must I think. It still makes me nervous seeing how high the stone sits above the basket, but if HW designed this, it must be acceptable, right??!!

 

[marymm]

Yeah, if you want to keep and set your Amethyst, which is an enormous stone, then I echo the suggestion you eliminate the halo and do side details along the lines of this ring you posted to spread out the ring structure across your finger.








It will be a big tall ring still, and only you can do the cost analysis of whether it is worth it to craft it right now when gold is so high and you don't have a ring design you love and find wearable.

 

[meely]

I saw this Art Deco emerald ring by Harry Winston online. If you do go with a lower basket, make sure those prongs are heavy, and durable. Double prongs would be a must I think. It still makes me nervous seeing how high the stone sits above the basket, but if HW designed this, it must be acceptable, right??!!

How would a lower basket work though?
I don’t like the look of the HW ring at all
The only thing I can think to do to reduce the size of the basket is to tilt the halo more
It hasn’t got any prongs btw it’s bezel set

 

[meely]

I think what might be bugging you is that although the stone is deep, it has a lower crown. That might be throwing you off. It’s a very bottom heavy gem. Your equally deep cabochon looks good to you because it is a larger dome and sits high above the basket. You could do longer prongs and a lower basket, but the girdle is more exposed, and as a large gem, it might not be as secure in the mount or protected.

My biggest concern is that the ring is so top heavy. I would want a euro shank.

I am not necessarily opposed to a euroshank i have another ring with one it just doesn’t feel very Art Deco.

 

[T L]

How would a lower basket work though?
I don’t like the look of the HW ring at all
The only thing I can think to do to reduce the size of the basket is to tilt the halo more
It hasn’t got any prongs btw it’s bezel set

Well if it’s a bezel, it has to go around the girdle. Maybe you can make the basket more airy looking. The filigree work, while pretty, is a bit heavier looking. Maybe a cage basket would be more appropriate.

 

[T L]

I am not necessarily opposed to a euroshank i have another ring with one it just doesn’t feel very Art Deco.

No one will see the euro shank, but I do have a retro aqua ring with a euro shank. I think the design is very deco inspired.

 

[meely]

Hi @meely
I'm probably the least knowledgeable person on here, but for what it's worth I think it's very pretty! I've gone through a number of CADs with DK right now as well, and I'm pretty sure you're at least conveying your thoughts more intelligently than me. Example, "can we make the gallery more rounded... and upped?"

I agree with other PSers about the gallery taper angle and larger donut more like your original CAD. With your earlier CAD you mentioned you thought it was bulky? Which part felt bulky for you? For the shank/shoulder, do you think it would help you feel less bulk if it met the head a little lower down on the gallery instead of right under where the halo edge is?

Thank you mjea and your input is just as valuable as everyone else’s! I am not so great at conveying my thoughts btw way too convoluted! I hadn’t considered making the shank meet the halo lower down, it seems slightly unconventional somehow but I think I need to consider it, I can see where you are coming from.
The size of the gallery felt bulky, I thought more tapered would be more elegant but it hasn’t translated. It looks like a flat bottomed boat!

 

[T L]

... or instead if a full halo, you could do telescoping sides with diamonds. Telescoping is a deco feature. It would be a more airy look, and not so consumed by a halo.

 

[meely]

How

Looking at the photos you attached, neither of them are halo designs, but they're balanced. In your mold, what stands out to me is that the straight line of the basket from finger to top of halo angles outward and gives a very top-heavy stance to the stone. This makes it feel as if the ring will tip. If I were designing this for myself, I'd consider two things: 1. Retain the gallery but drop the halo and widen the shank at the palm side to balance the weight at the top. 2. Go with something more simplistic like your photos. I love the second ring example with the scrolls and more minimal gallery. That will widen out the ring's finger coverage, giving it balance naturally.

How do I drop the halo? I think the amethyst starts to go in if I drop it and that’s not going to be a good look. I can only think to tilt the halo more but I’m not sure it will make enough difference and might compromise too down view.
The more I think about it the more I want a halo. Grrrr. I wondered about keeping the halo and doing stepped down sides. Thoughts?

 

[meely]

... or instead if a full halo, you could do telescoping sides with diamonds. Telescoping is a deco feature. IT would be a more airy look, and not so consumed by a halo.

Erm great minds see my post below

 

[Sibsgirl]

How


How do I drop the halo? I think the amethyst starts to go in if I drop it and that’s not going to be a good look. I can only think to tilt the halo more but I’m not sure it will make enough difference and might compromise too down view.
The more I think about it the more I want a halo. Grrrr. I wondered about keeping the halo and doing stepped down sides. Thoughts?

 

[meely]

I think it appears to be top heavy because the height of the basket makes up majority of the height from finger to top. I use a inspiration photo that @elle_71125 posted in your thread asking for gallery ideas for a rough illustration: in that picture B is approx. 50% of A while in your CAD it might be only 1/3 of A. Maybe pushing the position of halo more closer to the finger and reducing the height of gallery? Just my two cents.

I think you are totally right. I just don’t get how to move the halo.

 

[T L]

Erm great minds see my post below

Lol, my aqua ring is like that but with a Euroshank, which is why I thought of it.

 

[meely]

Yeah, if you want to keep and set your Amethyst, which is an enormous stone, then I echo the suggestion you eliminate the halo and do side details along the lines of this ring you posted to spread out the ring structure across your finger.








It will be a big tall ring still, and only you can do the cost analysis of whether it is worth it to craft it right now when gold is so high and you don't have a ring design you love and find wearable.

Yeah I need to chew the fat a bit more on this one, that’s for sure!

 

[meely]

Lol, my aqua ring is like that but with a Euroshank, which is why I thought of it.

Have you got a pic? Do you think I could my halo still and then carry on down with the steps?

 

[Sibsgirl]

I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I meant simply to remove it from the design entirely. This would narrow the top and allow the decorative gallery you've got in mind to follow the stone shape exactly. It sounds as if you don't want to do that.

On the bright side, I love the ring you just posted -- but it doesn't have a halo! Either scrolls like your earlier examples or the tiered diamond sides of this particular example would be great ways to make the ring feel less as if it will topple, but I wouldn't add them to the halo. A massive center plus a halo AND stepped sides would be a lot for me personally, but you've got to do what you like. Have you seen an example of something that ornate with a center stone the size of yours? I have a feeling you could pull all of that off if the amethyst were smaller, but the sheer size of your stone will magnify anything you add.

 

[mjea]

I was just about to post about this. (Also, thank you for your kind response!)
I know this photo has baguette stones, but maybe you can take rounds in a thin baguette outline like your photo. That might add the balance you were looking for, and would also force the meeting point of the shoulder/shank a little further down. Also, I know this photo has prongs and you only wanted bezel so ignore those

How


How do I drop the halo? I think the amethyst starts to go in if I drop it and that’s not going to be a good look. I can only think to tilt the halo more but I’m not sure it will make enough difference and might compromise too down view.
The more I think about it the more I want a halo. Grrrr. I wondered about keeping the halo and doing stepped down sides. Thoughts?

 

[Rfisher]

Looking at the photos you attached, neither of them are halo designs, but they're balanced. In your mold, what stands out to me is that the straight line of the basket from finger to top of halo angles outward and gives a very top-heavy stance to the stone. This makes it feel as if the ring will tip. If I were designing this for myself, I'd consider two things: 1. Retain the gallery but drop the halo and widen the shank at the palm side to balance the weight at the top. 2. Go with something more simplistic like your photos. I love the second ring example with the scrolls and more minimal gallery. That will widen out the ring's finger coverage, giving it balance naturally.

I think it appears to be top heavy because the height of the basket makes up majority of the height from finger to top. I use a inspiration photo that @elle_71125 posted in your thread asking for gallery ideas for a rough illustration: in that picture B is approx. 50% of A while in your CAD it might be only 1/3 of A. Maybe pushing the position of halo more closer to the finger and reducing the height of gallery? Just my two cents.

Is this what you guys mean by dropping the halo lower?

 

[T L]

Have you got a pic? Do you think I could my halo still and then carry on down with the steps?

I would try to get a better photo for you but it’s in the bank, so I found this on my cameras album.

in the side view, it has a very very thick straight shank that forms right angles at the bottom of my finger. It’s a very heavy 18k gold mount. Irs not as delicate as a true deco piece, but the right angles and architectural design is very Art Deco. I was told this ring was from the mid 20th century when bulkier styles were more in fashion. My stone is extremely deep.

 

[Module]

Is this what you guys mean by dropping the halo lower?

Yes, that's the idea. The main stone can stand up a little bit higher from the halo by showing more bezel metal, or the halo can be tiled down.

 

[meely]

Is this what you guys mean by dropping the halo lower?

Thanks for that. Is it doable? It certainly looks more asthetically pleasing (no more flat bottom boat) but what would it look like from the top down?

 

[T L]

I really like the airy quality of the buttresses that offset the deep basket of this Art Deco inspired Raymond yard ring as well.

Raymond Yard Fine Chrysoberyl and Diamond Platinum Ring at 1stDibs

View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stDibs - A truly rare gem: 19.84 carat chrysoberyl, GIA certified stone, flanked by trillion diamonds and art deco style diamond detailing on the side. The chrysoberyl

www.1stdibs.com

 

[Rfisher]

Thanks for that. Is it doable? It certainly looks more asthetically pleasing (no more flat bottom boat) but what would it look like from the top down?

I’m sure it’s doable.
I don’t know at what cost (figuratively not literally), to the rest of the design or what it will alter in its wake.
nor what it will look like face down.
it’s worth asking Amy/David for a look.

I would say anything possible - but that’s just not true. I’ve tested and probably worn out my welcome with DK on that

 

[elizat]

Does this help for ideas?

6 Carat Aquamarine Cocktail Ring w/ Diamond Accents

6 Carat Aquamarine Cocktail Ring w/ Diamond Accents. This vintage Art Deco cocktail ring features a glamorous 6 carat square cut aquamarine.

filigreejewelers.com

https://filigreejewelers.com/product/vintage-deco-aquamarine-diamond-ring-in-platinum/

 

[Laurainthesky]

Does DK work in sterling? Then you wouldn't need to worry about thick metal costs.

 

[meely]

I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I meant simply to remove it from the design entirely. This would narrow the top and allow the decorative gallery you've got in mind to follow the stone shape exactly. It sounds as if you don't want to do that.

On the bright side, I love the ring you just posted -- but it doesn't have a halo! Either scrolls like your earlier examples or the tiered diamond sides of this particular example would be great ways to make the ring feel less as if it will topple, but I wouldn't add them to the halo. A massive center plus a halo AND stepped sides would be a lot for me personally, but you've got to do what you like. Have you seen an example of something that ornate with a center stone the size of yours? I have a feeling you could pull all of that off if the amethyst were smaller, but the sheer size of your stone will magnify anything you add.

No I think this has clarified for me that I would rather keep the halo. However it depends if I can make it work. And you are right the stone is too big to do a halo and the stepped down diamonds.

 

[meely]

I was just about to post about this. (Also, thank you for your kind response!)
I know this photo has baguette stones, but maybe you can take rounds in a thin baguette outline like your photo. That might add the balance you were looking for, and would also force the meeting point of the shoulder/shank a little further down. Also, I know this photo has prongs and you only wanted bezel so ignore those

Thanks that’s lovely have you got a link for it. Is it Lang’s? I don’t have a problem with prongs it’s just none of my initial inspiration pics had them.

 

[meely]

I would try to get a better photo for you but it’s in the bank, so I found this on my cameras album.

in the side view, it has a very very thick straight shank that forms right angles at the bottom of my finger. It’s a very heavy 18k gold mount. Irs not as delicate as a true deco piece, but the right angles and architectural design is very Art Deco. I was told this ring was from the mid 20th century when bulkier styles were more in fashion. My stone is extremely deep.

Thanks for posting those. I really like it, I agree it definitely has a modernist aesthetic.

 

[meely]

Yes, that's the idea. The main stone can stand up a little bit higher from the halo by showing more bezel metal, or the halo can be tiled down.

I think it could work, certainly it looks much better proportioned but I’m reading that as a double halo.

 

[meely]

I really like the airy quality of the buttresses that offset the deep basket of this Art Deco inspired Raymond yard ring as well.

Raymond Yard Fine Chrysoberyl and Diamond Platinum Ring at 1stDibs

View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stDibs - A truly rare gem: 19.84 carat chrysoberyl, GIA certified stone, flanked by trillion diamonds and art deco style diamond detailing on the side. The chrysoberyl

www.1stdibs.com

Thanks that’s a nice ring. Coming out at the sides definitely seems to be the way forward just don’t know if I can let go of my halo.