Poll: My ring mould came but it’s not right, what shall I do?

[LilAlex]

This was a design I considered. But I decided to go down a more simplistic route. Perhaps it would lend itself to my stone.

Shallow stone.

I don't think that is very Deco, honestly. It is "fancy" (ornate), but none of the actual design elements look Deco me.

 

[lulu_ma]

Here’s another inspo idea. I think you can get all your must have elements in, but the gallery is pared down a bit..

 

[meely]

Here’s another inspo idea. I think you can get all your must have elements in, but the gallery is pared down a bit..

Oooh thank you, I like that a lot! I think getting some sort of gallery reduction will be key!

 

[lulu_ma]

Yay! Here’s the link to the ring with different angles in case you need it...

Art Deco Style Octagonal Aquamarine Cluster Halo Ring Set in Platinum at 1stDibs

View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stDibs - A truly stunning octagonal cut aquamarine cluster halo ring set in a platinum mount. The piece is centrally four-claw set with a 6.02 carat octagonal aquamarine;

www.1stdibs.com

 

[voce]

@meely @lulu_ma looking at the new inspiration, it seems to me that a key part of getting a smaller gallery, apart from the depth of the stone itself, is the portion of the gemstone that sits above the halo of diamonds. Please note that the original DK CAD @meely shared had a bezel around the emerald, whereas this inspiration is prong set. In general, the bezel has to go around the edge of the crown, so the entire pavilion of the gem has to be below the diamonds and covered by the gallery. However, in the aquamarine prong example, the prongs are high enough that a significant part of the pavilion is above the diamonds--and this is really what enables the gallery to be reduced. So, in short, @meely, I hope you are not a stickler for bezels, or else the gallery reduction can go nowhere...

 

[meely]

@meely @lulu_ma looking at the new inspiration, it seems to me that a key part of getting a smaller gallery, apart from the depth of the stone itself, is the portion of the gemstone that sits above the halo of diamonds. Please note that the original DK CAD @meely shared had a bezel around the emerald, whereas this inspiration is prong set. In general, the bezel has to go around the edge of the crown, so the entire pavilion of the gem has to be below the diamonds and covered by the gallery. However, in the aquamarine prong example, the prongs are high enough that a significant part of the pavilion is above the diamonds--and this is really what enables the gallery to be reduced. So, in short, @meely, I hope you are not a stickler for bezels, or else the gallery reduction can go nowhere...

As it goes @voce I am a bit of a bezeller although I’m trying not to be. They are very Art Deco aren’t they though. What do you think of what @Rfisher mocked up though? That made the gallery shorter whilst keep the bezel at the same place. Just dunno what you would need to do with it looking top down.
I love the ring @lulu_ma found. The prongs don’t look very deco though. Maybe tab prongs instead or even double tab prongs. I am not sure that having the pavilion high is very deco though.
As you can tell I’m in the ‘still mulling things over’ stage.

 

[voce]

Is this what you guys mean by dropping the halo lower?

@meely I think if this is what you were referring to, I think that the downward tilt makes it look a lot better proportionally. However, going back to the inspiration pics, a LOT of them are prongs, double prongs or tab prongs! So I don't think you can say that only bezels are art deco and prongs aren't. It's up to you. I'd go with Rfisher's modification if you have your heart set on having bezel.

 

[meely]

@meely I think if this is what you were referring to, I think that the downward tilt makes it look a lot better proportionally. However, going back to the inspiration pics, a LOT of them are prongs, double prongs or tab prongs! So I don't think you can say that only bezels are art deco and prongs aren't. It's up to you. I'd go with Rfisher's modification if you have your heart set on having bezel.

No I wouldn’t say that at all. I should have specified Art Deco halos generally have bezels! I will sit on it anyway for a bit. Yesterday I pretty much signed off on two other rings that DK is doing for me so the self pressure has alleviated now.

 

[JewelledEscalators]

I haven't read the whole thread so apologies if someone has suggested this already, but if the depth of the stone makes achieving the look you want challenging, why not just get another amethyst for the ring and use the one you have for something else? I say this only because amethysts are quite affordable even in big sizes...

 

[meely]

I haven't read the whole thread so apologies if someone has suggested this already, but if the depth of the stone makes achieving the look you want challenging, why not just get another amethyst for the ring and use the one you have for something else? I say this only because amethysts are quite affordable even in big sizes...

No one has said that actually! Well it was a more expensive one as it’s from Rwanda from Moriarty’s Gems. Under $1000 but yes it’s food for thought. However it took a long time to find one in the size and cut I wanted (width and length) with the right cut, big clipped corners and the color. It’s just the depth that is off.

 

[JewelledEscalators]

No one has said that actually! Well it was a more expensive one as it’s from Rwanda from Moriarty’s Gems. Under $1000 but yes it’s food for thought. However it took a long time to find one in the size and cut I wanted (width and length) with the right cut, big clipped corners and the color. It’s just the depth that is off.

Ah I see. Personally, the stone shape made me think of chunky 1940s style rings like the ones below, but I guess that's a complete departure from the look you're going for!

Retro-Era 14KT Gold Amethyst Cocktail Ring

Circa 1940. This gorgeous Retro Era ring features a single emerald-cut 30.35-carat natural amethyst set into a four-prong 14KT gold head. The shoulders of the ring feature a sculpted design. Visit our store in Seattle, or discover our collection online at isadoras.com.

isadoras.com

MAXFIELD PRIVATE COLLECTION | 1940'S AMETHYST RING

Gold ring with rectangular amethyst stone embellishment and ribbed detailing from Neil Lane. Crafted with a thick gold band and exquisite purple amethyst stone with healing powers. Carry this popular February birthstone with you on your hand and in your heart.

www.maxfieldla.com

Retro Citrine Cocktail Ring | Fred Leighton

An emerald cut citrine weighing approximately 37 carats is set in a bold 18 karat yellow gold ring bearing French hallmarks. Circa 1940s.

www.fredleighton.com

Lovely colour stone though.

 

[meely]

Ah I see. Personally, the stone shape made me think of chunky 1940s style rings like the ones below, but I guess that's a complete departure from the look you're going for!

Retro-Era 14KT Gold Amethyst Cocktail Ring

Circa 1940. This gorgeous Retro Era ring features a single emerald-cut 30.35-carat natural amethyst set into a four-prong 14KT gold head. The shoulders of the ring feature a sculpted design. Visit our store in Seattle, or discover our collection online at isadoras.com.

isadoras.com

MAXFIELD PRIVATE COLLECTION | 1940'S AMETHYST RING

Gold ring with rectangular amethyst stone embellishment and ribbed detailing from Neil Lane. Crafted with a thick gold band and exquisite purple amethyst stone with healing powers. Carry this popular February birthstone with you on your hand and in your heart.

www.maxfieldla.com

Retro Citrine Cocktail Ring | Fred Leighton

An emerald cut citrine weighing approximately 37 carats is set in a bold 18 karat yellow gold ring bearing French hallmarks. Circa 1940s.

www.fredleighton.com

Lovely colour stone though.

Oh I like those rings, they are not unlike the solitaires that I put photos up for on the first page although I do want some diamonds

 

[JewelledEscalators]

Oh I see what you mean, the amethyst ring you posted on #post 3 is not unlike a 1940s citrine ring I've seen with cabochon gemstones at the ends of the scroll part.

I personally prefer them without any diamonds as it takes away from the sculptural design, but I guess that's a matter of preference.

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @meely -

I think you've had all the suggestions you need re the head of your setting. But I just wanted to add that a 2mm band with a head that large and heavy will almost certainly lead to spinning and will look unbalanced. You might want to consider a wider band; given that the head is so large, a wider band won't look out of place but, rather, a better 'fit'.

Just a thought.

 

[JewelledEscalators]

This one has diamonds though still chunky, but more balanced?

RETRO 18CT WHITE GOLD AMETHYST & DIAMOND COCKTAIL CLUSTER RING - 1940/1950s | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RETRO 18CT WHITE GOLD AMETHYST & DIAMOND COCKTAIL CLUSTER RING - 1940/1950s at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[meely]

Hi @meely -

I think you've had all the suggestions you need re the head of your setting. But I just wanted to add that a 2mm band with a head that large and heavy will almost certainly lead to spinning and will look unbalanced. You might want to consider a wider band; given that the head is so large, a wider band won't look out of place but, rather, a better 'fit'.

Just a thought.

Thanks Mrs B and it’s definitely in the mix, I may just do a euroshank as I have one on another ring and find it comfy.
Weird thing I tried the mould on my pointer finger and it is not only slightly tighter so does not spin but it looks so much better, not nearly as high. Goodness knows why but maybe I should consider wearing it on that one instead, it’s where I wear my emerald which is a big ring.
Regarding ‘all the suggestions’ you are right, I’ve just had so much useful help on this thread! I tend to get a bit overwhelmed (in life generally ) so having made up my mind on the two other rings David is making for me I feel more relaxed at leaving it for a bit. There are a LOT of options and I want to make the right decision!

 

[meely]

This one has diamonds though still chunky, but more balanced?

RETRO 18CT WHITE GOLD AMETHYST & DIAMOND COCKTAIL CLUSTER RING - 1940/1950s | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RETRO 18CT WHITE GOLD AMETHYST & DIAMOND COCKTAIL CLUSTER RING - 1940/1950s at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

The steps down on that one are nice but jeez they could have definitely set that stone lower! I guess some peeps like em high!

 

[JewelledEscalators]

The steps down on that one are nice but jeez they could have definitely set that stone lower! I guess some peeps like em high!

The higher it is, the closer it is to your eyes

 

[JewelledEscalators]

Hi Meely, can I be a pain and request a hand shot of the amethyst? Curious as to whether it looks quite similar to Siberian amethyst. I saw a Moregems video in which Rwandan amethysts changed colour - does yours too? I really love amethyst and whilst googling pictures of rings for this thread, I've quite got into the idea of getting a retro or vintage inspired design gold amethyst ring in the future.

 

[meely]

Hi Meely, can I be a pain and request a hand shot of the amethyst? Curious as to whether it looks quite similar to Siberian amethyst. I saw a Moregems video in which Rwandan amethysts changed colour - does yours too? I really love amethyst and whilst googling pictures of rings for this thread, I've quite got into the idea of getting a retro or vintage inspired design gold amethyst ring in the future.

Sorry I haven’t got one, I’m in the UK and so I got the amethyst shipped straight to DK as it would have been much more complicated sending it here first.

 

[JewelledEscalators]

Ah I see. No problems. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it in the end, in any case.

 

[CSpan]

This one has diamonds though still chunky, but more balanced?

RETRO 18CT WHITE GOLD AMETHYST & DIAMOND COCKTAIL CLUSTER RING - 1940/1950s | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RETRO 18CT WHITE GOLD AMETHYST & DIAMOND COCKTAIL CLUSTER RING - 1940/1950s at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

While set higher than necessary i love how the entire gallery is straight down so it hugs the same real estate as the stone. Versus the tapered down galleries if the other rings. It looks much less "tippy" that way, although how that translates I don't know. I keep asking for my galleries (various vendors) to come straight down from the stone or halo and keep missing the mark.

 

[Mreader]

While set higher than necessary i love how the entire gallery is straight down so it hugs the same real estate as the stone. Versus the tapered down galleries if the other rings. It looks much less "tippy" that way, although how that translates I don't know. I keep asking for my galleries (various vendors) to come straight down from the stone or halo and keep missing the mark.

Any update on this project @meely ?

 

[LD]

I haven't read the whole thread so apologies if I'm repeating something that others have said. I think the difference between your CAD and the inspiration photos is that most of the inspiration photos have added detail on the sides of the ring where the shank is. I'm wondering if you need to add something to make it more balanced? I have to say that I really like it as is but can see that it perhaps doesn't give the Art Deco look you want. Typically you add baguettes length ways that can give a more Deco look. Sorry if that's not helpful. I'm looking forward to what you decide to do.

EDIT: Just gone back and looked again at the CAD. Instead of having melee all around how about on the left and right hand side replace some of the rounds with a baguette, then add two more baguettes lengthways down the side of the ring in decreasing sizes from the one in the halo? I'll see if I can do a mock up for you. It won't get rid of the height problem but might give you more of a style you were looking for?

 

[LD]

Something like this? Obviously the side baguettes would be stepped down in height though.

 

[meely]

Any update on this project @meely ?

Thanks for asking! Well It got parked while I was sorting out setting my cushion and wrap so I could focus on that, which has been now been dragging on for a long time (I originally thought I might get it for my birthday two months ago!) I’m hopeful it will be finished soon.
My last thoughts were that I might leave it just not sure that the height isn’t going to really bug me too much. I think in all likelihood I will take a break from projects for a little while and come back to it when I feel a little bit more fired up again.

 

[meely]

Something like this? Obviously the side baguettes would be stepped down in height though.

Oh thank you so much, they look beautiful. I cannot even decide which I prefer!
There is one elephant in the room though, I think baguettes would totally blow the budget!
As I said in my post above my other project (which I put this on the back burner for so I could concentrate on one at a time as I was feeling overwhelmed) has really really dragged and tbh honest I have lost enthusiasm for doing anything else at the moment.
So I will come back to this thread in due course when I am feeling positive again as my heart isn’t quite in it at the moment.
But thank you for your post and the mockups I love them!

 

[LD]

Oh thank you so much, they look beautiful. I cannot even decide which I prefer!
There is one elephant in the room though, I think baguettes would totally blow the budget!
As I said in my post above my other project (which I put this on the back burner for so I could concentrate on one at a time as I was feeling overwhelmed) has really really dragged and tbh honest I have lost enthusiasm for doing anything else at the moment.
So I will come back to this thread in due course when I am feeling positive again as my heart isn’t quite in it at the moment.
But thank you for your post and the mockups I love them!

Totally get that. You get idea saturation and then can’t make decisions. Good idea to walk away from it for a while and I bet you one day something will just click and you’ll know exactly what you want. One thing I would say is that you could use mossanites or zircons to keep cost down.