Sapphire rings for a newbie

[T L]

Wow, I have to start purchasing from Gemrite!

I agree TL, there are so many unheated sapphires that are under the radar - perhaps because they don't have a "name" location attached, or because they aren't "the" color. We went through this a few weeks back with someone looking for a blue/green sapphire. As I recall, she came with one that was pretty gray and when we showed her cheap and - in my view better - alternative sapphires, she was thrilled. Montana is a great resource (though on the small side), as are slightly included ones or ones that are slightly off the color track. If someone is willing to consider this range, then there should be no problem staying well within budget, except if they decide to create a custom setting which is terribly labor intensive.

Madagascar sapphires are also making a name for themselves, as some high quality ones are on par with Ceylon material. Winza Tanzanian sapphires can be very beautiful too.

 

[ooo~Shiney!]

Well, Here is someone who just bought a bit of Montana Sapphire rough, this example
looks to be very fine..... perhaps he has more in this hue that he could cut !
(This one was heated.... not to stir things up, I am not deliberately being naughty)
In fairness, the OP did say he would consider heated sapphire.
I believe a lot of Montana is heated, or am I wrong?

http://www.precisiongem.com/html/html/Sapphire.html

 

[ooo~Shiney!]

I thought these were pretty Sapphires too ...... They have been heated as well....

(TL, I did look on Odyssey Gems, but I find their site difficult, in terms of blue sapphires...
You have a better eye than me, do you see any there that you would consider?
They had a large selection with some being quite affordable....)

 

[Pandora II]

Wow, I have to start purchasing from Gemrite!

I agree TL, there are so many unheated sapphires that are under the radar - perhaps because they don't have a "name" location attached, or because they aren't "the" color. We went through this a few weeks back with someone looking for a blue/green sapphire. As I recall, she came with one that was pretty gray and when we showed her cheap and - in my view better - alternative sapphires, she was thrilled. Montana is a great resource (though on the small side), as are slightly included ones or ones that are slightly off the color track. If someone is willing to consider this range, then there should be no problem staying well within budget, except if they decide to create a custom setting which is terribly labor intensive.

It all depends on your priorities - I and I'm guessing the major percentage of the buying public would rather have a heated stone in premium colour than an unheated stone in a lesser colour (presuming that your favourite shade is the premium colour in the first place). When I've asked friends who've asked for my help in their e-rings what is acceptable to them in terms of treatments and explained each to the best of my ability with before and after photos, so far all of them have asked for heated stones in the best colour possible and some of the budgets have been very good.

I have some blue sapphires that I bought direct from the source - some are unheated and some are heated. The heated ones are fractionally better colour but the unheated have the most beautiful rutile inclusions and so are more attractive to me.

To give an idea of the basic honesty of a lot of people in the world, I bought a 1.5ct cushion cut blue sapphire in a very pretty shade that I was told was heated and I paid a good price for it as such. About an hour late the man I bought it from came back to my agent's office to tell me that he'd made a terrible mistake and the stone was actually unheated and he didn't want me to think that he was dishonest - I thought that he might have wanted to increase the price accordingly but when I offered he absolutely refused. The stone is pretty clean but in one corner there are some very nice rutile crystals that show no signs of heat at all.

If I was looking at pad sapphires or orange sapphires I would want a lab report every time.

TL - if you are looking for the best chance of getting a definite answer on Be treatment you want to go for a lab that has the option of doing LA-ICP MS or SIMS rather than LIBS. Remember that some blue sapphires (I think Madagascan in origin can contain Be naturally - although generally in much lower concentrations than the diffused stones.

Regarding labs - if you are in Canada/USA my top choice would be AGL. If you are in Europe then the best one IMO is the Swiss Gemmological Laboratory (SSEF) - this then avoids all the issues and hassles of import duties/VAT etc and finding a way of shipping the wretched things and I would rate it on an equal level with AGL so it's not a lesser choice.

 

[T L]

To give an idea of the basic honesty of a lot of people in the world, I bought a 1.5ct cushion cut blue sapphire in a very pretty shade that I was told was heated and I paid a good price for it as such. About an hour late the man I bought it from came back to my agent's office to tell me that he'd made a terrible mistake and the stone was actually unheated and he didn't want me to think that he was dishonest - I thought that he might have wanted to increase the price accordingly but when I offered he absolutely refused. The stone is pretty clean but in one corner there are some very nice rutile crystals that show no signs of heat at all.

That's nice he was so honest, and perhaps the fact that you're a gemologist means that dealers cannot pull the wool over your eyes as well. I have dealt with very honest and very dishonest vendors in my collecting years, and it's always good to be better safe than sorry. Also many vendors have no idea of treatment on these stones (I know my jeweler doesn't), and therefore, even if they have good intentions, you have to protect yourself. I helped a friend obtain a very beautiful diamond cut sapphire that the dealer (Tan) said was heated. He shipped the stone off to the AIGS, and they determined it was unheated. It did have some very intact rutile as well. She got a great deal on a very beautiful stone as a result. In some rare cases, it's good to send to a lab just because you might even get a better outcome, although that is usually not the norm.

 

[T L]

I thought these were pretty Sapphires too ...... They have been heated as well....

(TL, I did look on Odyssey Gems, but I find their site difficult, in terms of blue sapphires...
You have a better eye than me, do you see any there that you would consider?
They had a large selection with some being quite affordable....)

He does. He can also ship gems to the Asian GIA lab for diffusion testing, but I'm unsure if they have the equipment that Pandora specified is the best to use for testing these stones (LA-ICP-MS). His ebay stores are odysseygem, vvs1gem and gemburionline. I would not buy any corundum from him without a reputable lab memo however. I have one sapphire from Tan, and it's the one that was heated, and I'm unsure if it's diffused or not. At the time, my ignorance led me to believe that the AIGS could test for diffusion. I know better now, and it's only the labs like AGL and SSEF (that Pandora recommends), and probably a few others, that can properly test for diffusion. It is also a more expensive test that adds a certain amount to the price of the basic lab report. However, I think you would be okay to send a sapphire to the AIGS if it was deemed unheated, as that can be determined with standard microscopic equipment. Therefore, if shopping with Tan, I would only recommend unheated stones. I know GIT can test for diffusion, but I think they only have the LIBS, which is not as conclusive as the other machine that Pandora mentioned (LA-ICP-MS).

 

[Pandora II]

My understanding is that both GIT and GIA Bangkok have LA-ICP-MS. The machine is so expensive and the test so time consuming though that most labs are asking around $300 on top of the usual report price to carry out this test.

IMO, this makes it too expensive to be doing on stones under $2k.

TL - when I bought those particular stones I had no more gemmological training than what I had taught myself from a couple of decent books and the ability to use a x10 loupe and pen-torch! Possibly I looked and sounded like I knew my stuff but I was pretty nervous!

Oh and still not a gemmologist per se... FGA diploma exams in 8 weeks - two 3 hour theory essay papers and a 3 hour practical the next day - but won't get results till mid-August so will be biting nails till then. Retakes in January

 

[T L]

My understanding is that both GIT and GIA Bangkok have LA-ICP-MS. The machine is so expensive and the test so time consuming though that most labs are asking around $300 on top of the usual report price to carry out this test.

IMO, this makes it too expensive to be doing on stones under $2k.

TL - when I bought those particular stones I had no more gemmological training than what I had taught myself from a couple of decent books and the ability to use a x10 loupe and pen-torch! Possibly I looked and sounded like I knew my stuff but I was pretty nervous!

Oh and still not a gemmologist per se... FGA diploma exams in 8 weeks - two 3 hour theory essay papers and a 3 hour practical the next day - but won't get results till mid-August so will be biting nails till then. Retakes in January

Well gemologist or not, you have provided a wealth of information here!! Thanks Pandora, and good luck on your exams!

 

[Arkteia]

Just wanted to mention to the poster, that Gary Braun with Finewater gems just posted new sapphires on his website. They are AGL certified as heat only and he has smaller sizes and much more affordable prices. I really liked the pink one, so you may wish to look at his website.

 

[T L]

Good price on a 2.5 carat unheated stone with obvious intact rutile inclusions. No high heat (diffusion) here, and it can be sent out for a lab report through him. This dealer will refund the cost of the stone and the lab report if it does not come back as advertised.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-55ct-UNHEATED...7803?pt=Loose_Gemstones_1&hash=item35a4e1a46b

 

[Bella_mezzo]

Hi Rikesh-Congrats on your upcoming engagement! I completely empathize with your situation. We had budget constraints, were in our early 30s, and had unexpected wedding expenses too. You will get a really amazing ring for your budget. You may need to have a stock setting with diamonds instead of sapphires in the band and have a slightly smaller sapphire, but the ring will truly be lovely!

My DH designed and picked my ring all on his own, captured a lot of what I liked, did it on his own, stayed within his budget (which was $1500-$2000) and completely surprised me (after almost 9 years of dating!). I had found some other great options in the $500-$1200 range and would have loved everyone of them as well.

You can get a gorgeous ring for $1500, it just might take a little more work/research to make it happen I understand that time is of the essence, so I'll post a few links at the bottom, but there is a lot of personal preference in sapphire selection, way more than in diamonds IMO...There is a lot of variation in sapphire colors and cushion shapes and faceting patterns, so alot of this depends on what you and your girlfriend like Differences in color can cause big differences in price for sapphires.

I would call simplysapphires.com and ask them what they have that might fit the bill. Several PSers have gotten GORGEOUS heated and unheated stones from them at great prices. It looks like their inventory is kind of sparse right now, but they may have stones that aren't on online and they are great at describing stones and photographing them all together in the same lights so that you can compare and pick the one that is best for you.

As far as settings go, excel diamonds, id jewelry, and james allen all have some nice ones at reasonable price points. If you have a local jeweler, you can also just go in and look through their Stuller, Adwar, and other stock setting catalogues...(there is a nother great one, Unique Settings NYC or something like that....)

Here are some ideas for you:

The Natural Sapphire Company

Prices here are higher than some other places so the sapphire is smaller, but it is untreated. If Livia is still there, she's great and she REALLY helped my DH and their workmanship was great...some people on PS have had great experiences with them, others not so great. My DH loves them

setting:http://www.thenaturalsapphirecompany.com/Sapphires/Mountings/Rings/Pave/stoneid=JS567W14 ($714 there is also an 18k yellow gold option that is more expensive...)

sapphire:http://www.thenaturalsapphirecompany.com/Sapphires/Mountings/Rings/Pave/stoneid=JS567W14#&&h6j3QhDvfOqTxf+LQiFYkCgHyHWhE15ZLObV5pPBTD1WDnLTPeP2hJIwcUVPVvm1UtWqxrDbep/1/mfL3dbancftAObpCxwRYOe2479TsCyCNADBtaKiPsM+R2IbZ2sP5HLau5y7yCCO4T0RN9y0SwMA7Po= ($864)

SImply sapphires:

http://www.simplysapphires.com/html/imagesblue2005/bluecns162-sm.html

http://www.simplysapphires.com/html/imagesblue2006/bluecns581d-sm.html

http://www.simplysapphires.com/html/imagesblue2006/bluecns1495a-sm.html

http://www.simplysapphires.com/html/imagesblue2005/bluecns164-sm.html

setting options:

http://www.exceldiamonds.com/-Engagement-Rings-5/Diamond-Accent-Engagement-Rings-12/

http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/channelset-rings/ (lots of options in 18k gold)

http://idjewelryonline.com/eringitems.php?cPath=42_45&sort=2a&noitems=21&&noitems=21&page=1 (they can order a bunch of other settings too, have great prices, and are usually great to work with.)

Don't forget, you will usually have tax and a setting fee (setting fee is often waived if you get the stone and setting from the same vendor and they do the setting)

these two popular PS vendors might also have settings that you like and can work with your budget depending on the sapphire....

whiteflash.com

briangavin.com


FWIW-this ring is totally my style and I would have LOVED this as my ering and this is a great price (but it sounds like you/your FI's style is different). Thought I'd post this just in case it was something you might like...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Platinum-Cushion-Sapphire-Diamond-Baguette-Ring-/270726264378?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8511891772471873591#ht_3812wt_1141

this is another ring that is gorgeous, unique, and captures the cushion sapphire, yellow gold, and diamonds at a great price (but it might not be your style...)

http://www.newyorkestatejewelry.com/rings/victorian-18k-yellow-gold-platinum-sapphire-diamond-ring/2210/1/item

Best of luck to you, and congratulations again! You will find a gorgeous and perfect ring in your budget!

ETA-I was up b/c I can't sleep, but just realized I didn't make the links clickable...I'll come back tomorrow to do that, but in the meantime, you can just copy and paste into your browser if necessary...

 

[Bella_mezzo]

hallelujah for macs, I think the links work

 

[rikesh]

How about this sapphire? I think it is pretty, a bit darker, seems to change to a pretty violet and has a glow.
(I tend to like stones that look different in different lights, you may not)

anyway, another suggestion well within your budget and leaving room for a nice setting !

http://www.gemrite.com/cubecart/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=268

Thanks Shiney. That whole stone is around $500, and untreated (although I would get a lab memo to verify). I don't understand why people can't get an affordable unheated sapphire, as they do exist, under the two carat mark. I think these are examples of why PS is doing a service to consumers. I don't think someone should have to "settle" for a diffused or heated stone with a $3K budget. Thanks again. I hope we didn't scare the OP away, and instead gave him some "food for thought."

Thanks for all the great suggestions from this and other posts...

more specifically I am looking for a cushion cut sapphire or other rectangular cut that has a fair amount of sparkle - maybe a bit elongated... she doesn't like the ideal/round or oval cuts as much.

but this is interesting and makes me feel like something like this could be done at a lower price. So far we've been looking at bricks-and-mortar jewelers, which mean we can see the sapphire ahead of time - what are the issues with buying online... is it easy and typical to ship/return/ship/return until you get the one you want?

 

[ooo~Shiney!]

WOW, Bella-mezzo you found some nice stuff !


Rikesh, you should definitely be able to come up with something beautiful !
(You have a much better budget than my DH did for MY E-ring !!!!!
Which was $$ 0.00 !!!! But I am making up for it now !!!! )

And we both paid for our wedding, and were able to keep it affordable!

Stick with us, we love to help !!!

 

[Pandora II]

Buying online is very easy - I'm in the UK as is LD and we buy online and from overseas all the time. I've never had an issue at all - I've also never returned a stone.

I do often ask for more photos and ask the vendor for as much detail as possible in advance so as to minimise the chance of not liking the stone. There used to be a freebie colour match programme from Gem Wizard which was really helpful - but I find using Pantone colous works pretty well so as to make sure that you're on the same page as far as a starting point goes.

Stones will also look different in different lighting - my tsavorite (avatar) looks a really bright slightly-blueish green in daylight, under electric lighting it darkens to a deep bottle green but sends out neon green sparkles. It's one of the things I love about having a coloured stone in my e-ring - I never get bored of looking at it!

 

[T L]

How about this sapphire? I think it is pretty, a bit darker, seems to change to a pretty violet and has a glow.
(I tend to like stones that look different in different lights, you may not)

anyway, another suggestion well within your budget and leaving room for a nice setting !

http://www.gemrite.com/cubecart/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=268

Thanks Shiney. That whole stone is around $500, and untreated (although I would get a lab memo to verify). I don't understand why people can't get an affordable unheated sapphire, as they do exist, under the two carat mark. I think these are examples of why PS is doing a service to consumers. I don't think someone should have to "settle" for a diffused or heated stone with a $3K budget. Thanks again. I hope we didn't scare the OP away, and instead gave him some "food for thought."

Thanks for all the great suggestions from this and other posts...

more specifically I am looking for a cushion cut sapphire or other rectangular cut that has a fair amount of sparkle - maybe a bit elongated... she doesn't like the ideal/round or oval cuts as much.

but this is interesting and makes me feel like something like this could be done at a lower price. So far we've been looking at bricks-and-mortar jewelers, which mean we can see the sapphire ahead of time - what are the issues with buying online... is it easy and typical to ship/return/ship/return until you get the one you want?

I think it's easy and safe to buy online as long as you work with reputable dealers that stand behind their product. You can also save money as B&M stores have more overhead, and therefore, the prices are higher. Please stay away from chain stores like zales, and other mall chain stores. They usually sell synthetic or highly treated stones, and they do not disclose treatment. Even Tiffany & Co. does not disclose treatment on their sapphires, and they do not send their gems out for a lab report.

The stone I showed above is a cushion, and I think an excellent buy. The inclusions will not be easily eye visible, especially once set, and they are proof the stone is not heated at a high temperature for diffusion. I really like that gem a lot, and I find that Tan (the store owner) has some of the best pricing there is on certain gems. There are other outfits mentioned as well, so take your time, look around, and most of all, try to get a good value for your money. You can post photos of the gems here for further comments from PS members.

You may want to ask the dealer if the stones shift color in certain lighting, as a more greyish color in one light source may not be something you want. Some sapphires change over to a more violet color in some lighting too, which I personally think is attractive, but again, it also might not be something you want. Tone, the stone's lightness or darkness, is also very important too. Many sapphires suffer from being overly dark, and are almost opaque looking. You want a gem to sparke and show off it's color, so when a sapphire is too dark, it can be very unattractive. These very dark sapphires are often marketed as "midnight sapphires" in order to make them more palatable to consumers, but they're not very attractive and usually over priced (especially at mall stores).

 

[K9]

I guess you want a nice dark blue sapphire for your fiance, which is nice
But this is one that I keep longing for.
Not heated.
It is a perfect size, to me.
No, it is not blue blue, but I think that makes it better.
I think it fits perfectly in your new budget, with enough left over for a pretty setting...

I wanted to chime in on this as I bought and returned this stone. It's VERY lovely, but be sure you want PURPLE. When they say that it has the violet color of a tanzanite - they mean it. It's purple.

 

[ooo~Shiney!]

I guess you want a nice dark blue sapphire for your fiance, which is nice
But this is one that I keep longing for.
Not heated.
It is a perfect size, to me.
No, it is not blue blue, but I think that makes it better.
I think it fits perfectly in your new budget, with enough left over for a pretty setting...

I wanted to chime in on this as I bought and returned this stone. It's VERY lovely, but be sure you want PURPLE. When they say that it has the violet color of a tanzanite - they mean it. It's purple.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!!!!!!!!
You are tempting me beyond reason !!!!!!!!!!!!
Did it sparkle?
Did you like the cutting?
Was the "purple" color not pretty?
TELL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is not good for me, BTW

 

[K9]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!!!!!!!!
You are tempting me beyond reason !!!!!!!!!!!!
Did it sparkle?
Did you like the cutting?
Was the "purple" color not pretty?
TELL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is not good for me, BTW

The cut was very nice - I love portuguese cuts. I will admit that I was disappointed just a tiny bit with the dispersion... it didn't flash and sparkle as much as I thought. Of course, I know nothing about sapphires so I'm not sure if they're supposed to. ?

Anyway, it was VERY tanzanite in appearance with medium to medium-light saturation. I was hoping for it to be mostly blue with some purple, which is why I returned it.

Honestly, it looks almost exactly like the picture, maybe just a smidge lighter.