Setting Journey for Tycoon Cut Diamond

[the_mother_thing]

Now that it appears I’ve finally found my unicorn asscher-ish diamond, the journey for setting ideas & planning can begin, so I figured I’d start a new thread for this phase of the project. Previous thread is here if someone cares to read the backstory, see videos, etc.

Specs:
WEIGHT: 1.77ct
COLOR: F
MEASUREMENTS: 7.12 x 6.87 x 4.23 mm
TOTAL DEPTH: 61.6%
TABLE SIZE: 79.0%
GIRDLE: Ex Thin to Thick
Ring size 7.25

The two settings that I have been eyeing for awhile for an asscher (before I even found this diamond) are below. I know I’m going to be torn on something slightly Art Deco/antique-y feeling and something more modern/clean. If I can strike a balance between the two without the central diamond getting overwhelmed/lost or the ring looking too busy, I would be thrilled!

ETA: an open gallery is a must so I can enjoy the pavilion’s fire show in side viewing.

CvB ‘Greta’ (I’d probably look to have tab prongs or a semi-bezel incorporated):


Sholdt R445-1D:


Some suggested in the previous thread that a tension setting would be a good option to consider, but most of the tension styles I’ve seen have been kind of bulky/masculine IMO, but I may not be looking at the right styles so please share examples. I’m not opposed, but don’t want it to feel/be bulky (even the Sholdt above almost feels a smidge over the line, but I know from experience their pieces are more ‘delicate’ in person than pics appear.

Thoughts, suggestions, ideas? Please post pics, links, etc.

 

[molecule]

I'd look into Maevona settings. She has a lot of open gallery settings- in particular:

 

[tyty333]

Ugh, I like both settings you've picked. I really like the look of the art deco setting. However, for some strange reason when I'm buying for myself
I usually go with cleaner lines like the Sholdt. It would be beautiful in either so basically, I'm no help! I do like your idea of tabs or semi-bezel on
the art deco ring though.

 

[Slickk]

Both rings are so beautiful it hard to chose. I do love the step cuts on the CvB ring but I do wondering how bands will sit with it if you like to add bands. I think the Sholdt (love Sholdt) is lovely and would be suit a flush band and give some oomph face-up size wise. Difficult but wonderful choice. Your stone is gorgeous!

 

[OoohShiny]

There are a few pics and links for tension settings here:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/tension-settings-do-you-like-them.169362/

but I absolutely LOOOOVE this Krikawa Mokume setting for its old/new combination
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/avc-krikawa-mokume.163859/




As a quick thought, do you know how the girdle thickness changes round the perimeter of the stone?

The Ex Thin part(s) would likely be safest tucked into the 'walls' rather than on the open sides!

 

[Lykame]

Are you open to going custom or do you want a stock setting?

 

[OcnGypZ]

IMHO when one has a fabulous stone... let it shine all by itself. Less...is more!

 

[Lykame]

I just had a fanciful browse through Sholdt, as I do find their settings quite captivating, and liked the look of all of these. I can't say they're all tension settings per se, but they're all open gallery and I presume even if they've been set with a round brilliant they look like they can be set with alternative shapes.

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/r472-1eng/

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/r642-1/

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/r281-1eng/

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/r206-1/

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/r620-1d/

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/r447-1d/

http://sholdtdesign.com/portfolio/b392-1d/

 

[Bonfire]

Nice find TMT! Personally I would keep it simple, that stone is everything! I’ll be following your journey.

 

[Lykame]

The Greta setting does seem very on-point. I just found this vintage setting and it looks very similar - but with tabs. I like that theme for your stone. And CvB does a great straight line, you know? Would tie it in all very nicely.

 

[the_mother_thing]

Thanks so much to everyone who’s chimed in so far! I’m really excited to embark on this project with input from so many fellow bling brothers & sisters!

I was surprised to note that no one asked or opined about setting the diamond north/south vs. east/west, given it’s not perfectly square. I’m not sold one way or another, as I think that’s going to be largely driven buy the setting, in the end. But my gut says it’ll be north/south if there are side FCs (like the CvB Greta).

I'd look into Maevona settings.

Thank you! I’ve seen this vendor mentioned a few times on PS, but don’t recall reading anyone who has a setting from there. Might you have one that you can speak to the quality, experience, etc.?

@tyty333 Thanks for chiming in! I love both settings too, so it’s hard. And I’m not ruling out something entirely different either. But I was thinking this afternoon, I wonder if I could combine elements of the two rings that I like into my own. I like the semi-bezel protection of the Sholdt but also like the FC sides/design of the CvB, and I know Caysie could figure out a way to do it ‘right’. I may try to draw/mock something up along those lines on the iPad to get a visual.

@Sandeek I appreciate your pointing out the band-sitting-flush aspect. I thought about that a little bit, and figured if I need to, I can always use my JA open spacer to allow for a slightly ‘protruding’ gallery that would otherwise keep my w-band from sitting flush. But I’m okay with rocking the gap as well; it doesn’t bother me all that much really.

@OoohShiny Thanks so much for posting those links! I will definitely look through them more thoroughly, but I thought I’d read Gelin Abacci is no longer in business, unless I’m confused with a different tension-setting vendor. There was one tension style I stumbled upon a few months back that I liked, but not sure I’d want it for this particular diamond. It’s made by Schaffrath, and called the ‘Calla’. I got to see it in person, and it was stunning!


@Lykame I am absolutely open to - and kind of assume it’s most likely - going custom. I’ve had a few custom pieces from both Sholdt & CvB, so I’m very comfortable with either. And may be open to others where I have some familiarity with the quality, reputation, etc. I like that vintage setting you found, and I’ve also combed through Sholdt’s site; I do like that one you posted (R447-1D). I may have to add that one to the short list.

@OcnGypZ I agree a solitaire-type setting would be awesome, but at the same time, I want just a little extra ‘something’ with it. That’s why I feel FCs would be a good pairing because they are subtle and wouldn’t overwhelm or detract from the central diamond. But I won’t be going crazy and haloing it or anything because I definitely don’t want it getting lost among a sea of sparkle. It’ll be a fine balance to strike, for sure.

@Bonfire Thank you! I’m really excited to find the perfect balance that lets the T-cut shine and be the star, but just giving her enough ‘supporting actors’ to set the stage.

 

[rainydaze]

regarding MaeVona, I just discovered that they offer sample settings. For $25 you can have a silver sample sent to you. If you return it, you get your money back. I just ordered two myself, an ering and a welder. I was shocked to find the silver samples were actually quite well done. If the samples are a reflection of the quality of their finished pieces, I'd say they've got it going on.

 

[the_mother_thing]

Thank you for sharing that @rainydaze I will take a spin through their website and see if anything strikes my fancy.

 

[OoohShiny]

@OoohShiny Thanks so much for posting those links! I will definitely look through them more thoroughly, but I thought I’d read Gelin Abacci is no longer in business, unless I’m confused with a different tension-setting vendor. There was one tension style I stumbled upon a few months back that I liked, but not sure I’d want it for this particular diamond. It’s made by Schaffrath, and called the ‘Calla’. I got to see it in person, and it was stunning!

Nice!

I am sure I have seen similar sold elsewhere - I will have to have a look round again

GA has been out of business for a little while now IIRC - I know @Dancing Fire posted up about them going out of business and there was another thread after that which seemed to be saying they had closed and sold the rights to the name?

Either way, it's a shame because their stuff was nice and not completely ridiculously priced for a tension setting in precious metals (which the Niessing and Steven Kretchmer stuff seems to be IMO).

 

[rainydaze]

Thank you for sharing that @rainydaze I will take a spin through their website and see if anything strikes my fancy.

Cool, enjoy! A lot of their designs are ornate and different, in a way that I suspect is not everyone's cup of tea. However several are reminiscent of Sholdt's aesthetic so you might find a few worth a peek.

 

[the_mother_thing]

I took a VERY rough stab at mocking up what combining semi-bezel and 4-tab prong styles with the CvB ring. Granted, these are not near as delicate, fluid and to-scale as I’m sure a CAD or rendering by Caysie (or Sholdt) would be, but it gives the general idea. I need to eye them both a bit more, but curious what others thoughts are.

 

[EC8]

Lovely diamond!
I like the tab version, echos the bezel outline angle of the FCs.

 

[lissyflo]

Tab prongs just get my vote too!

 

[Lykame]

Tab prongs get my vote too over the semi bezel version. That would be an awesome ring.

Also, I don't see that stone being set in a diamond orientation at all.

 

[rockysalamander]

I like tabs too. I too struggle with loving contemporary and vintage. So, I have a bit of a play with a maevona setting and your tabs.

For a squarish stone, this is something so striking about this Eday.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BSzHgzJAdzH/

 

[the_mother_thing]

Thank you all! My eyes favor the tabs as well; the girdle is what gives me pause and makes me think I’ll need to consider a semi-bezel, though David assured me the girdle would be fine. It’s that whole ‘risk’ factor. If I ended up needing a semi-bezel, I would aim for as this as possible so it doesn’t overwhelm the diamond. But I do love the look of tabs!

@rockysalamander I glanced through the Maevona site but nothing really caught my eye. I felt like they were either too simple or too much. The one you posted is beautiful, but I feel like it may be too busy with so many different diamond cuts/shapes, and the center stone wouldn’t stand out as much. But it’d be a great option for a colored stone, I think. I think that’s why I like the CvB and Sholdt options so much - they both make it all about the center with only subtle side accents.

 

[ringo865]

Ooh I love the tabs on the CvB ring

 

[motownmama]

East/West Sholdt gets my 100% vote

 

[Lykame]

Thank you all! My eyes favor the tabs as well; the girdle is what gives me pause and makes me think I’ll need to consider a semi-bezel, though David assured me the girdle would be fine. It’s that whole ‘risk’ factor. If I ended up needing a semi-bezel, I would aim for as this as possible so it doesn’t overwhelm the diamond. But I do love the look of tabs!

@rockysalamander I glanced through the Maevona site but nothing really caught my eye. I felt like they were either too simple or too much. The one you posted is beautiful, but I feel like it may be too busy with so many different diamond cuts/shapes, and the center stone wouldn’t stand out as much. But it’d be a great option for a colored stone, I think. I think that’s why I like the CvB and Sholdt options so much - they both make it all about the center with only subtle side accents.

Regarding the girdle, I think only a semi bezel going north and south would offer any protection - when you hit a ring it would nearly always be the north edge you whack, not the east and west. In that case I think the tabs offer as much protection as the semi bezel unless you did a full bezel. A full bezel would have to be really thin to still give you an open gallery. Hence, tabs.

 

[the_mother_thing]

I adore that Sholdt semi-bezel setting so much, and have had my eye on it for quite awhile. My only apprehension with it is that it *may* appear a smidge ‘bulky’ for this size diamond unless it can be ‘thinned’ down a bit. I think Erica had an EC in a similar Sholdt ring, but that EC was a honker, so it really stood out. My diamond isn’t exactly a ‘chip’, but it’s pretty close to my MRB that is in a Sholdt setting now (see my av pic), so I can kind of visualize how it may look as the basis for both settings is quite similar. My current Sholdt has small diamonds and milgrain on the sides to break up the ‘shine’ of the metal. The one above does not (and I wouldn’t want to add it because it’d be too much like my current ring), so I worry that it might present that ‘wall of shine’ appearance that I actually want to avoid.

Tab prongs get my vote too over the semi bezel version. That would be an awesome ring.
Also, I don't see that stone being set in a diamond orientation at all.

Do you mean you think it should be longer east/west vs. north/south? I agree, if there are not side stones (e.g., the FCs in the CvB). But in the case of the CvB, I think I actually prefer the distinction between the central diamond and the side diamonds so that it doesn’t appear as much like a straight wall of bling across the finger, if that makes sense.

 

[Lykame]

I adore that Sholdt semi-bezel setting so much, and have had my eye on it for quite awhile. My only apprehension with it is that it *may* appear a smidge ‘bulky’ for this size diamond unless it can be ‘thinned’ down a bit. I think Erica had an EC in a similar Sholdt ring, but that EC was a honker, so it really stood out. My diamond isn’t exactly a ‘chip’, but it’s pretty close to my MRB that is in a Sholdt setting now (see my av pic), so I can kind of visualize how it may look as the basis for both settings is quite similar. My current Sholdt has small diamonds and milgrain on the sides to break up the ‘shine’ of the metal. The one above does not (and I wouldn’t want to add it because it’d be too much like my current ring), so I worry that it might present that ‘wall of shine’ appearance that I actually want to avoid.



Do you mean you think it should be longer east/west vs. north/south? I agree, if there are not side stones (e.g., the FCs in the CvB). But in the case of the CvB, I think I actually prefer the distinction between the central diamond and the side diamonds so that it doesn’t appear as much like a straight wall of bling across the finger, if that makes sense.

Well, I think if you diamond-shape it, you're going to have to protect the squared off points of the diamond, which will mean moving the tabs to NSEW - and then how will you keep the pavilion exposed to the extent that shows off all that fire? Something fabulous about that stone.

I don't know, obviously this is your stone and your setting, but that stone is the star of the show to me - even if you add side stones, I kind of see it being quite step-wise - you don't seem to have chosen inspiration settings that have that 'wall' of diamond covering the full side-width of the diamond (thereby losing your central diamond to a wall of light), there's something that distinguishes out the BAND of the diamond with side stones and the central diamond. So I don't necessarily think that you need a NSEW diamond if you have side-stones. Certainly your beautiful CAD mock-ups clearly distinguish out the central diamond even though it's not NSEW. That's because the tabs are powerful (or even the semi bezel if you go that route).

Hopefully you understood all that without visuals.

PS: I know I'm being quite opinionated with this, but to be clear - I have no expectation that you follow my opinion, I just strongly believe that sometimes being told something without wishy-washy stuff makes it easier for you to figure out whether it's something you agree with or not.

 

[the_mother_thing]

@Lykame I think we may have a disconnect between references of North/South and East/West. I was referring to the diamond’s orientation on the finger as opposed to the location of the tab prongs on the diamond itself. The tabs would definitely be NE, NW, SE, SW. I was opining on how the diamond might set in the ring/on the finger, in that the longer edges would be vertical vs horizontal (not diagonally).

Or am I lost?

 

[Lykame]

Hehe. Erm. We may both be lost?

So - I am talking about how the diamond is either straight-edged at NSEW (square in orientation) with prongs like your CAD - at NW, NE, SW, SE... rather than you setting it in a diamond shape (the straight edges at diagonals). Were you thinking you wanted to set it like that latter option if you used side stones? That's what I interpreted from what you previously said - but to me that would mean moving the tabs/prongs to NSEW to protect those edges.

If you didn't mean that at all, then I was clearly indeed lost.

If you're talking about the fact that your square diamond isn't quite square, and you're wondering if you want the longer edge EW vs NS...? Then er... I think that would depend on your final setting choice and how much detailing you wanted. If you wanted simple, I would go with EW... if you wanted more side-stone/detailing, I would go NS with the longer edge, because you get more space to each side, and you get more distinction between the band and the central stone. Is that what you meant? In which case I agree... although I missed what the dimensions of your stone were and it looks like there's barely anything in it, to be honest.

 

[the_mother_thing]

Hehe. Erm. We may both be lost?

So - I am talking about how the diamond is either straight-edged at NSEW (square in orientation) with prongs like your CAD - at NW, NE, SW, SE... rather than you setting it in a diamond shape (the straight edges at diagonals). Were you thinking you wanted to set it like that latter option if you used side stones? That's what I interpreted from what you previously said - but to me that would mean moving the tabs/prongs to NSEW to protect those edges.

If you didn't mean that at all, then I was clearly indeed lost.

If you're talking about the fact that your square diamond isn't quite square, and you're wondering if you want the longer edge EW vs NS...? Then er... I think that would depend on your final setting choice and how much detailing you wanted. If you wanted simple, I would go with EW... if you wanted more side-stone/detailing, I would go NS with the longer edge, because you get more space to each side, and you get more distinction between the band and the central stone. Is that what you meant? In which case I agree... although I missed what the dimensions of your stone were and it looks like there's barely anything in it, to be honest.

The bold is what I was talking about as opposed to angling the diamond itself to be ‘kite’ set. There is a very slight off-square shape to it given the dimensions, but it is visually discernible enough that kite-setting is not an option (IMO, and I’m not really a fan of that anyway). So I agree with your assessment that the setting style would really dictate this.

I mocked up another potential option using the CvB Greta, but with a sort of ‘faux’ bezel and claw prongs (suppose I could do dot-style prongs to be consistent with the FCs). The idea is that the faux bezel would provide some all-around girdle protection. It’s not the best rendering, given the coloring I’m working with, but hopefully folks get the idea. Putting all three options together so you don’t have to scroll all over to see them comparatively.

 

[Lykame]

The bold is what I was talking about as opposed to angling the diamond itself to be ‘kite’ set. There is a very slight off-square shape to it given the dimensions, but it is visually discernible enough that kite-setting is not an option (IMO, and I’m not really a fan of that anyway). So I agree with your assessment that the setting style would really dictate this.

I mocked up another potential option using the CvB Greta, but with a sort of ‘faux’ bezel and claw prongs (suppose I could do dot-style prongs to be consistent with the FCs). The idea is that the faux bezel would provide some all-around girdle protection. It’s not the best rendering, given the coloring I’m working with, but hopefully folks get the idea. Putting all three options together so you don’t have to scroll all over to see them comparatively.

I can see easily enough that it's not perfectly square so I see what you mean about the kite option.

I still prefer the tabs - not such a fan of the full bezel in this situation. Not sure why? There are many situations where I think bezels are beautiful - but I'm not feeling it. Why though? I don't know. I think it's because I prefer the tab version a lot more? Not sure. However, which is your preference?