Thoughts on Leon Mege E-Ring Design?

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

Hi guys! Thank you for all of your help thus far on my long slog to E-ring Elysium! Now that I’ve finally settled on a jeweler, I thought I’d start a fresh thread with a more germane title.

Leon recieved my center stone and little sentimental diamond last week, and he is currently on the hunt for side stones. After unsetting my mom’s baguette, LM determined that it was too small to use as a side stone in a 3 stone ring (as predicted), but that it could be used as the smaller outer stone in a 5 stone configuration. He found a larger baguette to use in between the little guy and the center EC, and sent a pic of the three laid out (he’s still looking for matching baguettes for the other side).



What do you guys think? This is my first custom ring, and I cannot for the life of me visualize how this might look set. Does this look like it will be crazy wide? Or will it look just dandy when the sides are angled/arched? How “tucked under” will the side stones be?

I love the idea of graduated baguettes, and find the look both striking and timeless when executed well, but I am concerned that it will be too much of a good thing on my hand. As I’ve mentioned before, I have quite spindly, size 4-ish fingers, and my EC takes up a fair amount of real estate at 11.05 x 7.37 mm. I prefer to see at least a liiiittle hint of the shoulders/shank from the face up view, and I REALLY do not like when the spread of the side stones is visually wider than the finger they are on. Here’s a particularly egregious example of what I mean (with a much bigger EC, 6ct+):



A couple secondary concerns:

• Is the small baguette noticeably whiter than the other stones?
• Is the middle baguette too short/fat?

This 5 stone design seems to be the best/only option if I want to use my mom’s baguette, so if it won’t look full-on “married to the mob,” I’ll run with it. The only alternative baguette placement mentioned was setting it on the underside of the band, but Leon was concerned about potential damage to a sentimental stone since that part of the ring will suffer the bulk of day-to-day abuse.

If this 5 stone is going to look bananas and we have to scrap the baguette, it’s not the end of the world. I have a backup plan. I just don’t want to introduce Plan B to Leon and further confuse (and prolong) things until I know for sure the current arrangement is off the table.

In closing: HELP!

 

[Cerulean]

Agree regarding the "winged" look of your not for me, please example.

If this helps, this is how much real estate (approximately) your stone on its own will take up. I think you will be cutting it really close on showing any shoulder, but I bet other PSers can weigh in on that.

FYI–you can play with the tool yourself here.

I think proportionately, the stone he found is as good as it gets. I don't think it's too wide. The color difference shows a bit, but it doesn't look glaring (although it is a bit hard to estimate based on this photo).

This look strikes me as art deco.

Maybe you should ask if the shoulder will show, given the size of the stones? Admittedly I favor a 3-stone look like some of your other LM examples in your last thread. But I also have a deep appreciation for the importance of this little stone and think this will be an elegant look. Do I think it will be blingy? Yes!




To help you visualize, it reminds me of this one (no other photos, unfortunately) - the center is 3 carats...link here

 

[Bonfire]

To answer one question, yes your Mom’s baguette looks whiter to ME in the photo. Does that make a difference to YOU?

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

So here is Plan B:

1. Forget about using my mom’s little baguette anywhere in this ring. Save it for a different project.
2. Take a smaller stone from one of my mom’s pins, and have that set inside the band like so.
3. Tell Leon to choose whatever side stones he feels best suit my center stone. Only rules: no brilliant cuts, no pave.

Here’s the pin in question (please forgive the crappy photo):



I would not ordinarily dismantle a piece of my mom’s to use for parts, but the situation is a bit different with this pin. It was an anniversary gift from my dad early in their marriage, which she had stopped wearing in recent years/decades. Last year she started looking for a jeweler to have a wedding/anniversary eternity band made with the stones, but she passed away before the project got off the ground. I think it would be nice for some of the stones to get a second life in a wedding ring, even if not exactly as she had imagined. My sister is getting engaged this year, too, and would also like to use one (or some) of the stones in her own e-ring.

I was thinking we could set it “hidden gem” style, like in the below photo. Won’t be able to see it when it’s on, which is good and bad — at least we wouldn’t feel like we had to compromise on aesthetics by shoehorning a side stone in that’s just barely “close enough.” Not 100% sure if either the diamonds or sapphires in the pin are small enough to be set inside like shank like this, however?


The only other con I can think of is that it will prolong this very long process even further. I’ll have to get the pin from my dad’s house in another state (I’m visiting in a week or two), take it to a local jeweler to have the stones unmounted, and then ship the loose stone(s) to LM. And I assume LM will put the hunt for side stones, design discussions, etc. — much less actual fabrication — on hold until he has the new little diamond in hand. My boyfriend is already so antsy about getting this show on the road, and I think another weeks-long delay will drive him to drink!

 

[Bonfire]

Tell BF to cool his jets! Lol! This is important and you mustn’t feel rushed.

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

To answer one question, yes your Mom’s baguette looks whiter to ME in the photo. Does that make a difference to YOU?

It looks significantly whiter to me, yes. I can’t tell how much that would bother me once set, though. The sentimental part of me kind of likes the idea of a slight mismatch, so I’ll always know which one was hers. But I’d prefer if the difference was mostly only noticeable to me, not to any old passerby at a glance.

I’d say I’m pretty color sensitive — I can immediately spot the difference between, say, an E and an F when loose, and can see the tint in a G without a DEF nearby for comparison. But I am also color tolerant (as you can see, my EC is far from icy). I just don’t know if I’d be as tolerant of different color grades all in one ring.

 

[elizat]

What about using mom's diamond in a band? A very slim band with the baguette east west? What are the measurements?

 

[tyty333]

The thing about a 5 stone is it tends to pull my eyes outward instead of towards the main stone. I'm of the idea to use the baguette
in another piece of jewelry and let LM pick the sides he thinks are right. Also solves the problem with your tiny fingers.

Baguette...I would do something like this to wear on maybe your middle finger on your right hand. Sort of a barely-there kind of ring that
will bring a smile to your face when you see it.

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[Mreader]

I agree with what some others suggested and use the baguette for a different piece entirely. It seems like you’re trying to force it and you don’t want to end up with a design you don’t like just for the sake of using that stone.

 

[Bonfire]

You’ve chosen the “legendary “ LM to create your ring and I think letting him choose the stones that best suit your beautiful main stone is the best way to utilize his talents. Personally I would let him do his thing.
I love @tyty333‘s idea of a separate ring or even pendant worn close to your heart.
I also like your idea of a hidden gem in the shank from her pin.

 

[Tourmaline]

I don’t like the clarity on the large baguette he selected, unless that’s just a smudge. I also don’t like the bulky look of the graduated emerald cut side stones. I think it would look lovely to add another baguette like your mom’s for a three-stone, and it’s unfortunate that you are being talked out of that. I didn’t read your entire thread, so I don’t know why you selected the jeweler you did, but I wish you luck in dealing with him and his temperament. I hope the project is a good experience for you.

 

[wifelife]

I looked at the picture before I read your post, and my first thought was the side stones seemed too wide for how narrow the centre stone is. It looks stunning, but the proportions seem off to me? Maybe if all 5 were there it would be different, but it just doesn’t seem sleek if that makes sense?

After reading your post I can see why you want to use your mum’s stone. Given you have chosen LM for his artistic ability, I would probably just let him do his thing and use the baguette in a band, find a pair and make mini bezel studs or something.

Whatever you end up with will be stunning!

 

[yssie]

I don’t think there’s any way to fit five stones low on a spindly 4-ish finger. They’ll fit if Leon sets the center high and tucks the sides under - and angles them - significantly, but if your tolerance for “wings” (great description from @Cerulean!) is low - I personally err strongly toward a three-stone.

I think the idea of both your and your sister’s engagement rings sharing some of the stones from the brooch your mum was going to dismantle is really lovely. Bittersweet. I’m so sorry for your loss, again But you both moving on with your lives and sharing her jewellery like that - I imagine that would make your mother very happy.

One question though - is that specific baguette that he found a bit grubby in that pic? Or is it visibly included?

 

[cushioncutnut]

I personally would take the baguette and some stones from your mom's pin and make a beautiful pendant out of it. That way it will be a treasure on it's own and a lovely sentiment to wear around your neck to honor your mom. I agree with what others have said, Leon do his magic. I am sure he will steer you in the right direction. I also question that baguette that he provided but it could just be a little lint on it. Looking forward to seeing what direction you may go.

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

Agree regarding the "winged" look of your not for me, please example.

If this helps, this is how much real estate (approximately) your stone on its own will take up. I think you will be cutting it really close on showing any shoulder, but I bet other PSers can weigh in on that.

FYI–you can play with the tool yourself here.

I think proportionately, the stone he found is as good as it gets. I don't think it's too wide. The color difference shows a bit, but it doesn't look glaring (although it is a bit hard to estimate based on this photo).

This look strikes me as art deco.

Maybe you should ask if the shoulder will show, given the size of the stones? Admittedly I favor a 3-stone look like some of your other LM examples in your last thread. But I also have a deep appreciation for the importance of this little stone and think this will be an elegant look. Do I think it will be blingy? Yes!




To help you visualize, it reminds me of this one (no other photos, unfortunately) - the center is 3 carats...link here

Yes! “Winged” is the perfect way to describe it!

I made good use of that diamdb tool throughout the diamond shopping process, and also used the Procreate app to cobble together different design elements/proportions into Frankenrings I can visualize on my hand. For example:

The exercise hasn’t given me much clarity, probably because I’m terrible at ‘shopping things together in a remotely elegant or appealing way

I did find one hand shot of a vaguely similar ring on VC’s site. It’s with traps instead of baguettes, but the EC is in roughly the same ct/ratio ballpark. Video here. Hard no from the BF on this look, haha.



I have a call with Leon on Monday and could ask about shoulder visibility then, but after reading through all of the (much appreciated!) comments here, I think I may just tell him we’d like to go in a different direction.

 

[yssie]

Also remember that you’re looking at photos, which were taken with a one-eyed camera. When you see a ring on your own finger with two eyes the head will be less wide across the finger (meaning - you could see skin on both sides of the head in-person whereas a photo taken from the same distance will show a wider “wing”)

 

[tyty333]

Oh gosh, I really like the first two pics above. It's sort of an exaggerated taper on the sides. That gets my vote!

(yes, the rings is not for me so it has to be what you like @Mary Queen of Scotch )

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

@tyty333 which pics?! Inquiring minds must know.

If you are referencing the skinny, tall-drink-o-water traps, they are my favorite, too.

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

Also remember that you’re looking at photos, which were taken with a one-eyed camera. When you see a ring on your own finger with two eyes the head will be less wide across the finger (meaning - you could see skin on both sides of the head in-person whereas a photo taken from the same distance will show a wider “wing”)

This is a great point! One I should, and try to, consider. Although that 6ct EC (with the inexplicably brilliant cut traps) was ready to fly away both in real life and in it’s close up.

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

What about using mom's diamond in a band? A very slim band with the baguette east west? What are the measurements?

Baguette...I would do something like this to wear on maybe your middle finger on your right hand. Sort of a barely-there kind of ring that
will bring a smile to your face when you see it.

I agree with what some others suggested and use the baguette for a different piece entirely.

I love @tyty333‘s idea of a separate ring or even pendant worn close to your heart.

I wanted to use the baguette in this ring, because, frankly, I am about to inherit more jewelry than I know what to do with. So another itty everyday ring/bracelet/pendant doesn’t make sense to me and I don’t think it would be worn much. And I don’t intend to wear a wedding or eternity type band with my e-ring.

However, I think I may use it for a locket or a charm, as was suggested in one of my previous threads (God! Sorry for all the threads!).

 

[Cerulean]

@tyty333 which pics?! Inquiring minds must know.

If you are referencing the skinny, tall-drink-o-water traps, they are my favorite, too.

I’d personally share that with Leon! Or pick one of his current designs that emulate that to give him a sense of what you like instead of total free reign…

 

[lovedogs]

Yes! “Winged” is the perfect way to describe it!

I made good use of that diamdb tool throughout the diamond shopping process, and also used the Procreate app to cobble together different design elements/proportions into Frankenrings I can visualize on my hand. For example:

The exercise hasn’t given me much clarity, probably because I’m terrible at ‘shopping things together in a remotely elegant or appealing way

I did find one hand shot of a vaguely similar ring on VC’s site. It’s with traps instead of baguettes, but the EC is in roughly the same ct/ratio ballpark. Video here. Hard no from the BF on this look, haha.



I have a call with Leon on Monday and could ask about shoulder visibility then, but after reading through all of the (much appreciated!) comments here, I think I may just tell him we’d like to go in a different direction.

The very first pic you posted here is my favorite given your long fingers and relatively small finger size. I think its lovely and elegant

 

[tyty333]

@tyty333 which pics?! Inquiring minds must know.

If you are referencing the skinny, tall-drink-o-water traps, they are my favorite, too.

Yes, the first two pics in post #15!

The tall-drink-of-water traps give it an up-to-date feel while the emerald cut still keeps it a classic. I think its a great combo!

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

I don’t like the clarity on the large baguette he selected, unless that’s just a smudge.

One question though - is that specific baguette that he found a bit grubby in that pic? Or is it visibly included?

I also question that baguette that he provided but it could just be a little lint on it.

I'm hoping that is just a finger print or schmutz on the baguette, because otherwise yikes! The EC also shows some specks in this photo that I know aren't inclusions (not plotted on the report and I didn't see them when I louped it at home), but who knows.

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

I’d personally share that with Leon! Or pick one of his current designs that emulate that to give him a sense of what you like instead of total free reign…

The very first pic you posted here is my favorite given your long fingers and relatively small finger size. I think its lovely and elegant

The tall-drink-of-water traps give it an up-to-date feel while the emerald cut still keeps it a classic. I think its a great combo!

Thank you again for all of the advice, my dudes! I called Leon today and told him we wanted to scrap the baguette/5 stone idea and do a 3 stone instead. I sent him example photos/mockups of the lean mean traps, but added that we're open to something different if he thought it would look bad for whatever reason. He said he would have no problem telling me if he thought something was ugly (hahah), but thankfully he thought our idea was pretty! (Perhaps unsurprising as one of the examples given was of his own work.)

He's going to start looking for the right traps, but said that this size/ratio may be hard to find. He might have to take a pair of straight baguettes and recut/taper them, which is fine by me.

He hasn't ruled out the idea of squeezing my mom's baguette in elsewhere (somewhere tucked away/hidden), so I didn't bring up the pin yet (these are very brief phone calls). I'm going to my dad's house at the end of the week and may float the idea to Leon then.

I don’t think there’s any way to fit five stones low on a spindly 4-ish finger. They’ll fit if Leon sets the center high and tucks the sides under - and angles them - significantly, but if your tolerance for “wings” (great description from @Cerulean!) is low - I personally err strongly toward a three-stone.

One thing I love about LM's designs is how low set they are (I'm a klutz), so this solution would have been a bummer for me. Someday I'll be ready for a Liz Taylor-level five stone ring, wings be d*mned!

 

[Mary Queen of Scotch]

Another update from Leon/diary entry from yours truly!

He confirmed that super skinny traps are not readily available, and looked into the cost of recutting straight baguettes. Unfortunately, I think this route will push us out of budget! Leon quoted me $3500 for the setting + $3500 for the below baguettes + additional cost of recutting on top of that. We were really trying to stay below $6k for the setting (all in), so I’m trying to figure out how to massage this with the boyfriend.



The baguettes are approx. 0.90 ctw. They don’t look to be a perfect pair in terms of dimensions, but I suppose that’s a non-issue if they’ll be recut anyway?

 

[junebug17]

Another update from Leon/diary entry from yours truly!

He confirmed that super skinny traps are not readily available, and looked into the cost of recutting straight baguettes. Unfortunately, I think this route will push us out of budget! Leon quoted me $3500 for the setting + $3500 for the below baguettes + additional cost of recutting on top of that. We were really trying to stay below $6k for the setting (all in), so I’m trying to figure out how to massage this with the boyfriend.



The baguettes are approx. 0.90 ctw. They don’t look to be a perfect pair in terms of dimensions, but I suppose that’s a non-issue if they’ll be recut anyway?

I'm sorry this is turning out to be more expensive than you anticipated. I'm sure the baguettes would be cut to match in size. Keep us posted as to what you decide.

 

[mrs-b]

I don't *think* anyone has mentioned this, but if I'm repeating somebody else - my apologies....

I'm not a fan of center stones with angled corners set with stones with square corners. They're two different cuts - and say 'different periods' to me. If it's your thing - great! - have at it! but for me - no.

Yes, your mother's diamond looks whiter, yes, the five stone would be (way) too wide for my aesthetic (and I understand you've already made your own decisions re that - but just staying on topic re the original post), and agree that Leon's side stone contribution isn't cutting the mustard.

I think all the bells and whistles are detracting from your gorgeous diamond - and I'm someone who likes a BIG look. Were it me, I'd rotate the sides so they're horizontal rather than vertical, and go with tapered bullets. I love that look (if this interests you at all, have a look at my thread from last year called Boadicea the Valiant) and think it would look killer with your stone and the proportions you have, which are inflexible (your finger and your main stone).

Good luck!

 

[Cerulean]

I actually really like the skinny trap sides. It’s a little edgy, kinda sexy, and distinctly modern. From what I recall, it was that style that originally drew OP to LM, and it was a nice concession between a more classic, simple style that her boyfriend trends towards, versus that inner edge lord babe that is @Mary Queen of Scotch …(forgive me if I am misremembering)

I do love tapered baguettes as @mrs-b mentioned, I think it’s an elegant look and more understated. But is a classic look desired? That’s the question.

The budget is a bummer. Without knowing the stats of the sides, I don’t think it’s an unfair price. However, I have not pursued many custom cut diamond projects. The two times I got a quote for custom cut diamond sides stones, I was quoted $3,600 and $3,800 from two different vendors for antique pear side stones cut from rough in D-F color, ~0.5 total carats (0.25 each). I inquired about lab stones, and it was a negligible difference, the price was mostly for the labor. Cutting from rough is a different ballgame, but I hope that helps paint a picture.

If you like the skinny traps, I’d just express concern about the asymmetry of the sourced stones to get some reassurance. I’d imagine they’d be cut symmetrically, but this process is a bit beyond the scope of anything I’ve pursued!

 

[tyty333]

I too love the skinny traps but I know its getting $$$ with recut and all. I wonder what are the longest step-cut traps he can find?

I might do what @mrs-b said and check into bullets to see if you like that look and if there are bullets available.
Else, I* might just skip side stones. (but this ring is not for me!)