And now for everyone's favorite gem color... brown.

[cushioncutnut]

This is going to be stunning! No clowning around on that! Just gorgeous!!

 

[Leigh10]

Hello all,

I mentioned on another thread how I noticed the only "color" I didn't have in my gem collection was brown. So in an effort to change that, I started browsing zircons, since I've always wanted to own one. But it had to be untreated, and, apparently, even the browns are often heated. In any event, I found a 6ct., 12x9mm on JTV... nice cut, no window. They call it "orange," but it's really a rich amber or warm cognac shade. The tone is medium, which I was pleased to see, because I don't care for the darker red-browns. Anyway, this untreated variety is mined in the Singida region of Tanzania. I'm not a big brown fan, but I thought it might be nice for fall. Super cheap too, as you might expect. Just an FYI if anyone is also looking to add a brown to their collection. Now don't all run out at once to grab one!

She's gorgeous... the fire of colors showing off with the cut - WOW!
A couple of ideas to consider for a setting: (1) rose gold solitaire - whatever style you prefer (contemporary, ornate, etc..), just make her the star of the piece, or (2) if you want side stones, etc. have you considered pad. sapphires? There's enough of a color range to find what compliments your zircon... Enjoy!!!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I like the small variation in size, it gives it “texture” (no idea if that’s the correct term for it lol) and visual interest! Would you consider doing a fine bezel around each accent stone to visually separate them from one another? I’ve seen some halos done that way on PS and it looks lovely to me!

That is a really clever idea! Thank you!!

 

[Autumn in New England]

She's gorgeous... the fire of colors showing off with the cut - WOW!
A couple of ideas to consider for a setting: (1) rose gold solitaire - whatever style you prefer (contemporary, ornate, etc..), just make her the star of the piece, or (2) if you want side stones, etc. have you considered pad. sapphires? There's enough of a color range to find what compliments your zircon... Enjoy!!!

Thank you for the wonderful ideas!!

 

[PrecisionGem]

Hello all,

I mentioned on another thread how I noticed the only "color" I didn't have in my gem collection was brown. So in an effort to change that, I started browsing zircons, since I've always wanted to own one. But it had to be untreated, and, apparently, even the browns are often heated. In any event, I found a 6ct., 12x9mm on JTV... nice cut, no window. They call it "orange," but it's really a rich amber or warm cognac shade. The tone is medium, which I was pleased to see, because I don't care for the darker red-browns. Anyway, this untreated variety is mined in the Singida region of Tanzania. I'm not a big brown fan, but I thought it might be nice for fall. Super cheap too, as you might expect. Just an FYI if anyone is also looking to add a brown to their collection. Now don't all run out at once to grab one!

With these zircons, you really can not be certain that it hasn't been heated unless you dug it up yourself. The brown stones are most often heated in the rough, so it's quite likely the person who found it heated it to lighten the tone before selling the rough. These can be heated just by holding it over a candle flame for a few minutes, so anyone can heat these.

 

[Avondale]

These can be heated just by holding it over a candle flame for a few minutes, so anyone can heat these.

This got me thinking... say an unheated zircon was set in a ring, and the ring needed some work done to it. Wouldn't the jeweler's torch unintendedly heat the stone? In that case the stone being unheated would be a minus because the heat from the torch would potentially change its colour.

I can't help but think if an unheated zircon is so unstable in terms of temperature, maybe this is one case where complete lack of treatment might not be as desirable.

 

[PrecisionGem]

This got me thinking... say an unheated zircon was set in a ring, and the ring needed some work done to it. Wouldn't the jeweler's torch unintendedly heat the stone? In that case the stone being unheated would be a minus because the heat from the torch would potentially change its colour.

I can't help but think if an unheated zircon is so unstable in terms of temperature, maybe this is one case where complete lack of treatment might not be as desirable.

Pretty much the only stones were heating effects the price is sapphire and ruby. For anything else there is no difference in price between heated and unheated.
A touch would change the color or tone on a zircon unless it was very short and didn't heat the stone much at all. If the stone was already heated, then you are correct a quick amount of heat would have less effect.
Pretty much any zircon if you heat it enough will go colorless. I like the deep honey brown stones from Tanzania that are too dark to start with, as these usually heat to a very nice yellow. The trick is to not overheat, you can always heat a little, then heat more if needed.
The very dark red zircons that are too dark from the ground can heat to red, or heat more and get pink, or a mauve color. Again with these, the really dark ones are the best for heating from what I have experienced.
I normally heat these in the oven, taking them up to around 600 F to start, and then reheating if needed increasing maybe 50 degrees each time. The browns heat at a lower temperature, and these I will often do over small alcohol lamp so I can watch the color change. It takes only a few minutes.

 

[Autumn in New England]

With these zircons, you really can not be certain that it hasn't been heated unless you dug it up yourself. The brown stones are most often heated in the rough, so it's quite likely the person who found it heated it to lighten the tone before selling the rough. These can be heated just by holding it over a candle flame for a few minutes, so anyone can heat these.

Thanks for the insight! And I agree that sometimes treatments aren't quite so black and white as far as detection is concerned. Apparently JTV has a claim to this small mining area in Singida. Their senior buyer, George Williams, said they are on the ground there while the rough is being mined, and is 100% certain this particular material is untreated. Here's the listing info:

"Hailing from Tanzania's Singida region, we are pleased to offer these beautiful and all-natural, unenhanced orange zircons to our collectors. While many of the zircon gems in today's marketplace are treated to enhance their appearance, this is not the case with these orange Singida zircon gems. Their full-bodied colors, along with dispersion and fire rivaling that of diamond, make them an exciting offering not to miss. Each gem was faceted in Sri Lanka by a master lapidary, ensuring you will receive an expertly cut stone worthy of any collection. Our buyer's strategic location in Tanzania allows him to source and acquire much of the region's zircon production where mining is primarily artisanal, done in much the same manner as it has been for many years. A rare treat, these unenhanced orange beauties account for only 10% of total production and are accumulated over many months."

 

[Autumn in New England]

This got me thinking... say an unheated zircon was set in a ring, and the ring needed some work done to it. Wouldn't the jeweler's torch unintendedly heat the stone? In that case the stone being unheated would be a minus because the heat from the torch would potentially change its colour.

I can't help but think if an unheated zircon is so unstable in terms of temperature, maybe this is one case where complete lack of treatment might not be as desirable.

This is a great question. In my experience, regardless of the stone, it is best to remove it before taking a torch to the piece. The thought of a jeweler using a torch on a piece with the gem still mounted makes me very, very nervous, Avondale!! But you're also talking to someone who tries not to breathe wrong on her stones. lol

 

[PrecisionGem]

JTV was also 100% sure that the red andesine they were selling wasn't treated too, until they were exposed.

I would think their guy in Tanzania is buying the rough in an office in Arusha, and not watching ever stone as it's found. It's not legal in Tanzania to buy from the miners, you must go through a dealer, then get your parcel sealed by the government. Since it's not possible to detect heating these zircons, you really can't be sure unless you pull it from the ground and cut it yourself. Every stone passes through several hands before the final seller or buyer gets it.
It could be heated, it may not be heated, but the bottom line is heated or not, it has no effect on the selling price of the stone. The color sets the price, so if a better color can be gained with a little heat, then that's what will happen to the stone.

 

[Autumn in New England]

JTV was also 100% sure that the red andesine they were selling wasn't treated too, until they were exposed.

I would think their guy in Tanzania is buying the rough in an office in Arusha, and not watching ever stone as it's found. It's not legal in Tanzania to buy from the miners, you must go through a dealer, then get your parcel sealed by the government. Since it's not possible to detect heating these zircons, you really can't be sure unless you pull it from the ground and cut it yourself. Every stone passes through several hands before the final seller or buyer gets it.
It could be heated, it may not be heated, but the bottom line is heated or not, it has no effect on the selling price of the stone. The color sets the price, so if a better color can be gained with a little heat, then that's what will happen to the stone.

Naturally, I can only tell you what they told me. I recall the red andesine debacle several years ago. It was embarrassing for sure. But even major labs make mistakes once in a while, so I don't hold it against them. I have a really good rapport with George. JTV was disclosing treatments back when nobody else was, which I always respected. And, now, because of that past issue, they are one of the most transparent and consistent vendors around when it comes to treatment disclosure. When they have even the slightest bit of doubt, they list a gem as treated. So for them to really push the fact that this material is untreated, makes me think they're quite confident. I'd say I probably trust them now more than ever in that regard. But, yeah, I wasn't there, so I can't speak further on this particular parcel. Thanks for relating your experience!

 

[KLC]

Here's what I've come up with so far. Ok, yes, it looks a bit clownish at the moment.

But, I don't think these diamonds are very vibrant in person, nor differing in color from one another as much as it might seem. I think they're going to be quite a bit more subdued and deeper in tone IRL too. Everything is to-scale in the below composite I made in Word (I'm too cheap for photoshop). The zircon is 12x9mm, the white diamonds are 1mm, and the colored diamonds are 2.5mm and 2mm. I tried my best to represent the diamond colors as closely as possible in the composite, but I'm very limited. lol What do you think? Autumnal?




And here is a photo of the actual diamonds... much less expensive than true yellows, but more expensive than champagne or chocolate. I think it's because they have orange/green undertones.

I really love this

 

[Autumn in New England]

I really love this

Thank you! I received the parcel of colored diamonds, and they are really clean and bright... I was expecting the colors to be a bit muddy. DK sent me a 3D printed model, which I should be receiving Tuesday. Hopefully we're good to go for after the holidays!

 

[KLC]

Thank you! I received the parcel of colored diamonds, and they are really clean and bright... I was expecting the colors to be a bit muddy. DK sent me a 3D printed model, which I should be receiving Tuesday. Hopefully we're good to go for after the holidays!

Can't wait to see the finished ring!

 

[Leigh10]

I really love this

Fabulous! I love the traditional yet modern look to it. The colors… scrumptious! Outstanding color and design. Well done, you! Please share the finished piece when it is completed.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Fabulous! I love the traditional yet modern look to it. The colors… scrumptious! Outstanding color and design. Well done, you! Please share the finished piece when it is completed.

Thank you! I love anything autumnal, as you may have guessed!!

 

[Autumn in New England]

So I wanted another brown gem (this time a cooler shade), and thought a diamond might be fun. I was expecting far more reasonable pricing since they're, well, brown and relatively abundant. Spoiler alert: they ain't cheap!

Here it is... 2.15ct. princess cut fancy brown. It was described as being coffee colored (and I fall for food-related enticements every time). Just received it today. In hindsight, I may have gone with a fancy deep or fancy dark instead, as I'd have preferred a more full-bodied roast. lol But it does sparkle wildly and the cut is nice. Not sure if I'm keeping her just yet though.

 

[voce]

Just curious, where are the brown diamonds in price compared to colorless or yellow?

 

[LilAlex]

In hindsight, I may have gone with a fancy deep or fancy dark instead, as I'd have preferred a more full-bodied roast. lol But it does sparkle wildly and the cut is nice. Not sure if I'm keeping her just yet though.

I love that! I am looking (ish) for a pure brown -- not a yellow-brown or orange-brown but a nice, cool, pure brown like this one. I think it's great!

 

[LilAlex]

^ Too late to edit, but: in 18K palladium WG of course!

 

[Mjay]

So I wanted another brown gem (this time a cooler shade), and thought a diamond might be fun. I was expecting far more reasonable pricing since they're, well, brown and relatively abundant. Spoiler alert: they ain't cheap!

Here it is... 2.15ct. princess cut fancy brown. It was described as being coffee colored (and I fall for food-related enticements every time). Just received it today. In hindsight, I may have gone with a fancy deep or fancy dark instead, as I'd have preferred a more full-bodied roast. lol But it does sparkle wildly and the cut is nice. Not sure if I'm keeping her just yet though.

I love this! I’m selfishly hoping you keep it because I want to see it set. I’ve had a brown diamond on my wishlist for awhile but I haven’t found the right one. Please share a video!

 

[Autumn in New England]

Just curious, where are the brown diamonds in price compared to colorless or yellow?

Good question. I am not a diamond expert by any means, but I found, all things being equal, fancy browns to be fairly close in price to fancy yellows. Fun fact: I saw fancy light, fancy, fancy deep, and fancy dark browns in my online travels. I don't think fancy intense or fancy vivid browns exist. lol

 

[Autumn in New England]

I love that! I am looking (ish) for a pure brown -- not a yellow-brown or orange-brown but a nice, cool, pure brown like this one. I think it's great!

So mine is actually described by the GIA as fancy yellowish-brown, and I did not see any that simply mentioned "brown." All were orangey, yellowish, or pinkish (with the latter being much higher in price, as you may expect). I still see a cool brown when I look at this one though. In direct sun, however, it throws lots of yellow, orange, and red fire.

When are you buying yours?! When are you buying yours?!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I love this! I’m selfishly hoping you keep it because I want to see it set. I’ve had a brown diamond on my wishlist for awhile but I haven’t found the right one. Please share a video!

Thank you, my friend! Will do!!

 

[LilAlex]

When are you buying yours?!

I think I put that on pause for a while. Trying to find a permanent home for a few other oddballs that I've posted about. I had been trying to choose between an accessible (cost-wise) low-color alphabet stone vs. a spendier FCD.

But I can't wait to see what you do with your gorgeous stone!

I love your concept of "vivid brown." It is the brownest brown one can imagine!

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

I love that you're so into brown Autumn!!! I've been following this thread.

I'm on the other side of the fence where I want you to return this and get another brown so I can examine the colors for fun!

My Lunar New Year horoscope this year advised that I should be wearing brown (plus a few other colours for luck) and I was all: LIKE HELL I AM!!!!

I do have a few brown stones in my yellow diamond ring though so might wear that out a bit now to make the universe happy lol!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I had been trying to choose between an accessible (cost-wise) low-color alphabet stone vs. a spendier FCD.

I looked at andalusite, andradite, and brown tourmaline as more affordable options before settling on diamond (which I expected to be way cheaper!). Zircon is an option too, of course, but I already had one. Those all tend to be warmer though. You know what is my favorite brown gem? Smoky quartz. I just wish the majority of it wasn't artificially irradiated. I don't *think* it's detectable. Anyway, I love that cool gray-brown coloration.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I do have a few brown stones in my yellow diamond ring though so might wear that out a bit now to make the universe happy lol!

I have that ring saved in my "favorites" folder.

 

[Rfisher]

You know what is my favorite brown gem? Smoky quartz. I just wish the majority of it wasn't artificially irradiated. I don't *think* it's detectable. Anyway, I love that cool gray-brown coloration.

Quietly following along with thread to see what you do with your lovely brown princess
(Well-that doesn’t sound right……. )

A sapphire that has the look you describe as smoky quartz has been in my lazy see it when it pops up for quite a while

I’m hoping the cutters that have been lamenting the grey spinel rough used for target practice so many years ago before it became fashionable, to magically start cutting some large nice cool grey brown sapphires!

 

[Autumn in New England]

Quietly following along with thread to see what you do with your lovely brown princess
(Well-that doesn’t sound right……. )

A sapphire that has the look you describe as smoky quartz has been in my lazy see it when it pops up for quite a while

I’m hoping the cutters that have been lamenting the grey spinel rough used for target practice so many years ago before it became fashionable, to magically start cutting some large nice cool grey brown sapphires!

Same!

Are you one of our diamond connoisseurs, @Rfisher? I'd like to pose this question over on RT... has anyone ever seen a diamond certified by the GIA as pure fancy brown (no modifier) or gray-brown? I did not come across any in my travels, and I'm super curious.

ETA: Some of the fancy darks simply say brown, but I assume that's because it's difficult to see a modifier with a darker toned gem.