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Branded Cuts, why did they not last?

La2020

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 15, 2020
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803
Is there a reason why branded cuts such as Princess of Hearts, Lucere, Quadex etc are no longer in production now? Why don't the companies (i.e. Brian Gavin's Signature "Quadex") carry them anymore?
 
I had to look up the quadex, interesting shape. Shapes go in and out of popularity and Princess or square is not really in right now. Cushion is heading out. Marquis and oval could have asked the same question 5 years ago. Right now 3 stone seems to be making a return. The fancier the shape the less likely the consumer has heard about it.
 
Jewelry, at it's core, is a fashion product. Diamonds are part of that. Fashions change.

I've been told that it skips a generation. Brides in their 20's don't want a diamond that looks like their mother's because, by definition, Mom is wrong. Grandma, on the other hand, by similar definition, is cool. A diamond that looks like hers is therefore cool. Princess cuts were hot for about 30 years. That's Moms. Before them came a trend for marquise and ovals. White gold has been the thing for about 30 years now and we're starting to see yellow and rose come back. It's not better, or worse, it's just fashion. Buy what you like and don't be worried if your kids don't agree with you.
 
Jewelry, at it's core, is a fashion product. Diamonds are part of that. Fashions change.

I've been told that it skips a generation. Brides in their 20's don't want a diamond that looks like their mother's because, by definition, Mom is wrong. Grandma, on the other hand, by similar definition, is cool. A diamond that looks like hers is therefore cool. Princess cuts were hot for about 30 years. That's Moms. Before them came a trend for marquise and ovals. White gold has been the thing for about 30 years now and we're starting to see yellow and rose come back. It's not better, or worse, it's just fashion. Buy what you like and don't be worried if your kids don't agree with you.

A lightly off topic - but im bumping this thread for April

Do you see wider bands coming back soon ?
These skinny bands give me the willies
 
I see! What shapes are in fashion right now? Are marquise and ovals making a comeback?
 
I had to look up the quadex, interesting shape. Shapes go in and out of popularity and Princess or square is not really in right now. Cushion is heading out. Marquis and oval could have asked the same question 5 years ago. Right now 3 stone seems to be making a return. The fancier the shape the less likely the consumer has heard about it.

Thanks AprilBaby! The 3 stone design as in the 3 round shaped diamonds? Or any diamond shapes set in 3?
 
There were never a plentiful supply of any of those specialty cuts. I think a lot of them fade away because there aren't enough sold for them to really catch on and then justify increased production. Generic rounds, princess, emerald cuts, ovals, and cushions are cut by carried by many suppliers and generally sell far more than obscure branded cuts.

As far as fashion goes, I agree with buying whatever you like, but classics never go out of style!
 
I love looking at branded cuts--I had to google BGD's Quadex, and I love it! While there isn't a large market for these branded stones, you can request one be cut for you (pretty sure BGD would cut one of his patented designs). I always loved the princess Solasferas, but when I was ready to buy, there were none in my size/price range, so I went with a princess ACA instead.
 
Me too
I love looking at branded cuts--I had to google BGD's Quadex, and I love it! While there isn't a large market for these branded stones, you can request one be cut for you (pretty sure BGD would cut one of his patented designs). I always loved the princess Solasferas, but when I was ready to buy, there were none in my size/price range, so I went with a princess ACA instead.

Me too! they are so interesting!
 
Most of them were just cut because De Beers made them.
There never was a real market reason for them and they were half hearted pushed and dropped as soon as they could..
 
I see! What shapes are in fashion right now? Are marquise and ovals making a comeback?

Marquise sales have been so bad for so long that a lot of them were recut into ovals to make them sell better. Mostly they aren't cutting new goods at all. Old princesses are turning into cushions for similar reasons. Round is king, by a lot, but ovals and cushions are right behind. In the case of marquise this became so bad in the last decade that they're becoming scarce. A big, nice, marquise is not an easy buy these days.

I'm still not seeing a lot of wider bands but I'm expecting it. I am seeing a significant uptick in yellow and rose designs.
 
I was lucky enough to get a 1.9 H SI2 marquise last year for $5300. Estate buy. I have since had it reset in a bezel setting.3CCDD51D-D5DE-4E99-BA11-A64F01B2C8F7.jpeg
 

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I have a lovely princess of hearts. Originally I wanted an Asher, but even Jonathan at GOG was having difficulty getting nice stones in - and when he showed us this - my choice was instantly made (although I asked my to-be-DH make the final choice). I love it - but ironically don’t love princess cuts in general. 0D7CDB43-50C0-4E0D-A0D6-98A2C3D96122.jpeg0D7CDB43-50C0-4E0D-A0D6-98A2C3D96122.jpeg

It’s a little off axis, so you can’t see the arrows in this opal photo, but they are there. I’ve never had more compliments on a ring than I’ve had on mine. It sparkles relentlessly!
 
I think the skinny band will go because it won’t hold up. The 3 stone any shape is coming back in. I love a round and two pears!
 
I am a huge fan of branded cuts, I love the extra intrigue of unusual facet patterns and enjoy searching out stones which are unique and distinctive.

I'm not sure its true to say that branded cuts in fancy shapes are no longer being manufactured and marketed. Eg crisscuts, Hearts on Fire Dream (square) cut and Ashokas are all very much current cuts, to name 3.

Cutters also continue to produce small numbers of unbranded stones which are extremely similar (or even the same) as branded stones, eg elongated crisscut cushions and ideal cut square radiants, and these sometimes turn up on JA, Bluenile etc.
 
I was lucky enough to get a 1.9 H SI2 marquise last year for $5300. Estate buy. I have since had it reset in a bezel setting.3CCDD51D-D5DE-4E99-BA11-A64F01B2C8F7.jpeg
It is really beautiful! I have never ever seen such a big marquise in my life!
 
I am a huge fan of branded cuts, I love the extra intrigue of unusual facet patterns and enjoy searching out stones which are unique and distinctive.

I'm not sure its true to say that branded cuts in fancy shapes are no longer being manufactured and marketed. Eg crisscuts, Hearts on Fire Dream (square) cut and Ashokas are all very much current cuts, to name 3.

Cutters also continue to produce small numbers of unbranded stones which are extremely similar (or even the same) as branded stones, eg elongated crisscut cushions and ideal cut square radiants, and these sometimes turn up on JA, Bluenile etc.

@diamondhoarder you have such an exquisite collection of diamonds.. I especially love to read every interesting journey which you have embarked upon.
 
I have a lovely princess of hearts. Originally I wanted an Asher, but even Jonathan at GOG was having difficulty getting nice stones in - and when he showed us this - my choice was instantly made (although I asked my to-be-DH make the final choice). I love it - but ironically don’t love princess cuts in general. 0D7CDB43-50C0-4E0D-A0D6-98A2C3D96122.jpeg0D7CDB43-50C0-4E0D-A0D6-98A2C3D96122.jpeg

It’s a little off axis, so you can’t see the arrows in this opal photo, but they are there. I’ve never had more compliments on a ring than I’ve had on mine. It sparkles relentlessly!

@bright&shiny, that is really a lovely square H&A POH you have there! May I ask what is the specs for your POH?

I am really intrigued by this design after seeing it in person.
 
@La2020

I can understand!

Mine is 1.3 ct AGS H with strong blue fluorescence (no milky effect at all in any light). Ideal cut, si1. 7.34x6.34x 4.4 mm
 
It’s also a stone from Canada. I’d forgotten that part
 
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