Gypsy
Super_Ideal_Rock
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2005
- Messages
- 40,225
frankiextah|1317705015|3032686 said:SK's prongs ... in addition to different sized prongs, they are also pointing at different directions (use the corners of the table as reference points) :
in this photo you can also start to see bumpy / uneven parts of the halo - most prominently the pave diamonds and metal between the upper left and upper right prongs - sizes of melee diamonds are not even (some a bigger reaching beyond the halo, also the outer frame of the halo look bumpy and not a smooth perfect circle.
frankiextah|1317568236|3031177 said:Hi Phoenix !
of course, no problem ! PS has helped me so much so this is the least i can do !
yes, i agree that VC's craftsmanship, customer service and also price (!) are the best amongst the "master jeweler" category.
to answer your questions:
1) i was not aware of the "size" of the melee per say, but LM's - 1.7mm meleee on the halo, SK's - 1.1mm melee on the halo, VC's 1.3mm on the halo. i was told the as a general guideline, the melee size is basically the width of the band / halo you desire minus about 0.2mm ( for the metal part, even if you want to have an all diamond look with no metal top down). i had this discussion with VC while planning this final setting and he sent me adobe illustration digital "sketches" with 1:1 ratio of my center stone. one with a 1.5mm halo and one with a 1.7mm halo, both viewed top down with a 1.8mm shank. we did not discuss the melee "carat size", but discussed more so on how wide i wanted the ring shank / halo to be seen top down and VC went on from there with the appropriate melee sizes.
here are the 2 illustrations he sent me. the top one is with 1.5mm halo and 1.8mm shank. the bottom one is with 1.7mm and 1.8mm shank. i decided on the 1.5mm halo.
2) the melee in all 3 settings are full cut F/G VS+ (top line cut quality). the quality of all 3 settings are on par and i don't see any problems nor can i loupe any stones that looked cracked or with any inclusions at all. i believe full cut melee works perfectly with "brilliant" cut stones such as round, and oval, and i think single cut melee (even though i have not seen it in person) would work better with antique cut cushions.
3) i am very adamant about my setting heights even when i first went to see LM. when i saw LM i was not aware that i could tell him the exact mm to achieve, more like i asked for "LM medium high" setting (note: medium high only to LM standards), and told him that i needed to see the diamond culet above the donut and not hidden / chopped off from my vision (which is the case for many LM rings i've seen on PS). When i received the ring i measured it with my calipers and while it was "high" to LM standards, it was barely 6.5mm in height, a little too low for me still. because of this, and with the excessive metal on the lip part of the halo, the ring looked a little flat and "pancake"-like to me when worn on the finger. not being able to see the gallery and the pavilion of the center stone unless i deliberately rotated my finger bothered me.
for SK's ring, with more knowledge and confidence going into the project, i instructed for my ring to be set about 2mm above the finger, and with my center stone's depth of 5.21mm, the stone was set about 7.25mm in height. however, if you can see closely at the profile comparison photo, the head (halo opening) of the ring was actually too small for the center stone, forcing the diamond to rest below its girdle on the halo, visually the center stone looked like it's bumped up higher.
for VC's ring, i asked for the same height - about 2mm above the finger. with the combination of curved stems and a small donut, the diamond now looks perfectly situated and the head of the ring looks perfectly sculptural, 3D and fluid all the way down to the donut.
4) Technically speaking, the differences between casted and hand forged = 1) casting saves a little bit of time 2) 100% of the casted pieces have various degrees of air pockets and bubbles inside of the metal because the metal is poured into a wax mold guaranteeing to trap air inside. 3) the most important difference is the durability. casted pieces are a bit weaker due to the air bubbles (essentially hollow air gaps) inside the metal. the process of hand forging is essentially rolling the metal from a block of metal until one reaches a desired gauge (correct me if i am wrong). i think in this process the metal is "passed through" a hand cranked machine with the "space" adjusted to the desired gauge. as a result, compressing the metal repeatedly back and forth, there is absolutely no air bubbles inside of the metal. in addition, the process of rolling (forging) strengthens the metal so much more.
so while casted and hand forged pieces may look very similar in physical appearance on the surface (depends how well one can hand finish and polish the piece at the end), the difference is really on the inside of the metal that contributes to the strength of the piece as a whole in terms of bending out of shape.
in terms of dings and scratches, i was told that 90% plat with 10% iridium performs the best in terms of the metal looking steely, weight being the lightest, and the best to endure dings and scratches over time. my LM and SK rings are both 95% plat and did tend to register dings / scratches more than my VC ring which is made with 90% plat and 10% iridium.
i believe i started some commotions on PS discussing the "hand forged" topic... and my relationship with SK has now most likely been severed with me burning the bridge publicly on PS. however i don't regret this one bit. i just believe that with custom jewelry at this price point, it is very important to have 100% transparency with the material and exact process put into the project. people have different standards and tolerances and it is perfectly ok to choose casted or partly casted rings, i really think casted jewelry had gathered some degree of a bad rep on PS. casted pieces are very durable too, if the craftsmanship is good. i just believe that as a consumer paying so much money, the price needs to match the process that goes into the final product, and that the consumer needs to know whether or not a piece is casted or hand forged, that's all.
sorry long post, great questions because now i have spoken my mind ! hope this helps !!
FancyDiamond|1317912823|3034570 said:Frankie,
I am happy for you for finally getting the ring exactly how you want it to be. I agree with all your assessments. VC's ring looks the best. Thanks for taking the time explaining your thoughts and assessments and showing informative comparison photos. This helpful thread saves me lots of time, headache, and money experimenting. When I want to get a halo ring next, I shall definitely go to VC and ask for your setting.
Sorry that you have to endure unnecessary criticism. This is the exact reason why I do not share my bad experience here, because I think there are some very loyal members who are very protective of the PS sponsored vendors. It is very unfortunate indeed, because bad expereince is just as valuable information to share as good experience.
Thanks again for sharing.
7avocado said:Butterfly123 - How did your VC ring turn out? I am too in NYC and am seriously considering going with VC, would be great to hear about your experience.
mrs-blop|1445780786|3941911 said:Have just re-read this entire thread for about the 15th time. Every time I do, I learn something new - there is SO much information in this one thread!
And I have to say - every time I read it, I love VC's work just a little bit more. That man is a frigging genius.
ETA If PS had mandatory reading prior to membership - this thread would be on the list...for all sorts of reasons!
LLJsmom|1446011134|3942893 said:mrs-blop|1445780786|3941911 said:Have just re-read this entire thread for about the 15th time. Every time I do, I learn something new - there is SO much information in this one thread!
And I have to say - every time I read it, I love VC's work just a little bit more. That man is a frigging genius.
ETA If PS had mandatory reading prior to membership - this thread would be on the list...for all sorts of reasons!
Exactly mrs-blop. Required reading. Have you seen all the threads asking for help to replicate halos, etc.?