David Klass and spinel ring bezel

[lovedogs]

The butterfly is great - seeing it from that angle makes that one stone not stand out as much. There are other stones that same size below the butterfly so it does fit with the rest of the design

Agreed now that I'm seeing more pics of the butterfly.

 

[ChaiK]

Yeah, David suggested a cluster of diamonds together for effect rather than diamonds scattered everywhere and then the butterfly idea appeared. It literally flew into the discussions.

 

[Lovinggems]

Are you ok with those big gaps between your stone and the cup?

 

[Rfisher]

It is also difficult to remain neutral and not jump to conclusions and for this, I must apologise to @Rfisher who mentioned stalking and I was not in the right frame of mind to read the word 'stalking' last night.

Accepted, and I also could have chosen better words.

I’m glad you seem to be making progress with communications with DK and on the right track to resolutions between you both and this ring.

I don’t think I would ever call this ring work shoddy -
But I still do absolutely think questioning DK on the rough finish under the center stone as reasonable. Yes it does look like that area was subjected to nicks and dings when the melee was set.

These types of bombe pave rings are labor intensive and not cheap to do right and finish polish all areas nicely.

Your ring is very pretty.

I think I would ask for all the (especially melee) prongs to be double checked after the final polish and before it ships. I’ve been told by DK a few times that a final polish takes place after photos and that polishing can and does lift prongs.

IMO - I wouldn’t change the melee around the butterfly

I also would greatly scrutinize the center stone’s outline shape for symmetry and the levelness of its girdle before making changes on those 4 prongs. I’m not positive for sure see something with the stone but it’s worth asking and checking out first. If there’s any wonky- ness to that stone - concessions may have had to be made and making the prongs totally symmetrical may point out stone asymmetry.

 

[ChaiK]

Are you ok with those big gaps between your stone and the cup?

I thought it best to just let go and trust David. If he says it is magnification, then ok, it should be fine.

Asymmetry is being fixed and no changing of any stones. Keep it simple.


Oh, and I love your bangle on your avatar! I cannot find this transparent jadeite quality at the moment.

 

[Lovinggems]

I thought it best to just let go and trust David. If he says it is magnification, then ok, it should be fine.

Asymmetry is being fixed and no changing of any stones. Keep it simple.


Oh, and I love your bangle on your avatar! I cannot find this transparent jadeite quality at the moment.

That's good, hopefully you're fully happy with the ring after the changes.

Thanks for liking my bangle photo, it is looking its best under full morning sun, it does have bits of cotton floating around in real life, depending on which angle I'm viewing it.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I must be losing my touch, because I consider myself to be unreasonably fussy. Yet I think the basket rim is going to be a non issue at eye level in person. Of course, this is your ring (and your $), and you must be pleased. Just try not to drive yourself nuts by being overly critical. It can suck the joy out of the experience. I know from whence I speak. In any event, I do, however, agree that the stone is set just a teeny bit askew - easy fix. Lastly, for me, the one or two smaller ruby melee stones aren't an issue because they're a part of the butterfly design. Lovely stones, lovely ring... enjoy!!

 

[ChaiK]

I must be losing my touch, because I consider myself to be unreasonably fussy. Yet I think the basket rim is going to be a non issue at eye level in person. Of course, this is your ring (and your $), and you must be pleased. Just try not to drive yourself nuts by being overly critical. It can suck the joy out of the experience. I know from whence I speak. In any event, I do, however, agree that the stone is set just a teeny bit askew - easy fix. Lastly, for me, the one or two smaller ruby melee stones aren't an issue because they're a part of the butterfly design. Lovely stones, lovely ring... enjoy!!

I so agree with this. And also being positive.

I kept the wording of the asymmetry issue very simple. Should be fine.

I am pleased with it. I think the magnification threw me off.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I so agree with this. And also being positive.

I kept the wording of the asymmetry issue very simple. Should be fine.

I am pleased with it. I think the magnification threw me off.

It happens to all of us... we live and breath these stones and these designs. And so it's only natural that we become a bit fixated on certain things. I think you're going to be super happy when you receive this piece. Do be sure to let us know. Congrats!

 

[prs]

One thing to note is that David's photographer uses extraordinarily bright lights to take the studio photos and videos. Coupled with magnification, this can make the photos look very different from what you see in real life. In particular the light reflections from gold surfaces can make you see things that just aren't there. I wonder if that's what's going on with that bezel edge? Also. the bright light can make colored stones look completely washed out.

I might suggest you ask Amy to send you some photos taken with her phone to get a more lifelike view.

 

[ChaiK]

@prs, I think you posted sometime back about the stone being set too low. I think your dw is sensitive to things like that.

Please help me see if this suggestion by David is ok. I could make it lower. Or not have it at all and stick with the original:

Original is here:



Or David proposes this:




Thank you for your input. I was going to just leave the bezel be, but David has kindly drawn up an alternative and I remembered your wife being very good at this sort of thing.

 

[prs]

@prs, I think you posted sometime back about the stone being set too low. I think your dw is sensitive to things like that.

Please help me see if this suggestion by David is ok. I could make it lower. Or not have it at all and stick with the original:

Original is here:



Or David proposes this:




Thank you for your input. I was going to just leave the bezel be, but David has kindly drawn up an alternative and I remembered your wife being very good at this sort of thing.

I don't believe it was me who said the stone was set too low. I think the setting David is proposing is more commonly used for cabochons when the dome is a significant part of the beauty of the stone, and you want to make sure it is fully visible. I'm not sure it's used that often for faceted stones.

Looking at this photo it seems to me the spinel is set perfectly, and I'm not sure raising it up would be of any help. It might even make the girdle more susceptible to chipping.





Looking at the symmetry and drawing a line centered on the setting rather than the table of the spinel. The stone is off center by a fraction, but not a huge amount. It may be this was the best orientation of the cushion shaped center stone to fit perfectly in the setting. Or maybe the table on your gorgeous spinel was actually cut a little off center?



If you ask David to see if it's even possible to take care of the offset, then he could check to see if that "bezel" edge is properly polished whilst the stone is out of the setting.

Of course, claws are a personal preference, but my opinion is that claw prongs would look great on this ring, but then DW insists on claw prongs for just about everything!

I do think your ring is absolutely stunning, and I'm kind of glad you had this little issue. I suspect it's the only reason we got to see it!!!

 

[Autumn in New England]

ITA with @prs!

 

[ChaiK]

Thank you, @prs . I asked him to decide. I am just going with the flow of it.

I will be sure to post pictures of this ring once it is done.

David's work is very good and fine.

 

[CaseyLouLou]

Thank you, @prs . I asked him to decide. I am just going with the flow of it.

I will be sure to post pictures of this ring once it is done.

David's work is very good and fine.

I prefer the way it is now to setting it higher.

 

[chrono]

Same, the way it is right now flows beautifully. I would not raise it.

 

[thirdrock]

I wouldn’t mention this, but since they are working on the ring anyway…The bottom, left diamond seems outside of the butterfly shape. It seems like that should be a ruby instead.
It is a very creative design.

 

[ChaiK]

I wouldn’t mention this, but since they are working on the ring anyway…The bottom, left diamond seems outside of the butterfly shape. It seems like that should be a ruby instead.
It is a very creative design.

That's great! I love that it is out of sync there.

 

[thirdrock]

That's great! I love that it is out of sync there.

Great, I’m glad you love it! It’s a beautiful and unique ring.

 

[T L]

I wanted such a setting with pink or red melee for a green stone! It's absolutely gorgeous. I can't wait to see your hand shots!

 

[mrs-b]

A whole lot of jewelers don't send progress photos and this is why.

I've had so many pieces from DKJ, and a zillion of them have looked 'off' in photos - only to be completely fine in real life. The camera + lights + melee + reflection situation causes what looks like all sorts of nicks and divots - only to prove to be illusion when seen in real life. Bezel is actually one of DKJs strong suits and one of the setting styles I automatically go to them for - knowing it will be a slam dunk.

As for the height of your gem, I'd leave it as is. Sinking it down or raising it up brings various problems, whereas its current slight raise draws the eye without disconnecting it from its surrounds.

I think the tiny ruby near the butterfly looks fine.

I think your stone is not entirely symmetrical. Is it a native cut or was it precision cut?

When I want something in a piece- like perfect symmetry, for example - I'll make a point of saying (generally in bolded type) in an email "Can we please make sure that the setting is as totally symmetrical as possible, please." - then let them take it from there. It's possible your stone is not entirely symmetrical *under* the table (altho I can see a degree of asymmetry in the table, too). If the belly of the stone isn't symmetrical - and they often aren't - that can cause issues also, depending on the setting.

I think seeing it in person is the right way forward. Please be careful using terms like 'shoddy' and 'proper bezel' and 'professional standard' - when you haven't seen the ring. Those terms seem very critical for a ring not as yet seen. I'm also sure David is pretty good at 'seeing sense'.

I hope you love your ring.

 

[Rfisher]

Thank you, @prs . I asked him to decide. I am just going with the flow of it.

I will be sure to post pictures of this ring once it is done.

David's work is very good and fine.

Have you received this beautiful ring?

 

[pinkjewel]

Question, does he still do all the work himself, or is he hiring out new bench people? Leon Mege seemed to have a similar problem with quality control once he hired out new people and apprentices.

TL- he does not appear to do all the work himself anymore. Last week when he gave me a progress report on a ring he is making for me, he said it was with the "setters". Since one of the gems is a paraiba being placed into a bezel I am a bit nervous.

And I just read thru this whole thread hoping to see the end result... and nothing!! Please come back and post your beautiful ring!!

 

[ChaiK]

Here it is. I think David does try his best. Everyone here helped me sort out the issues with the ring and the advice has been invaluable.

It is not the perfect stone but stays red a lot of the time, and sometimes, it flashes a traffic light red. I think the ruby melee has helped the spinel seem redder. I think a usual diamond halo would have killed the stone.

This spinel is different to a garnet in that it stays red even if there are dark areas. The garnet can flatten out at times.

This one flashes red even in low light.

Tomorrow, I could take out my camera and take pictures of that butterfly. It really is a very cute ring. Looks like a rambutan minus the hair with a diamond butterfly slide at the side.

 

[thirdrock]

Here it is. I think David does try his best. It is not the perfect stone but stays red a lot of the time, and sometimes, it flashes a traffic light red. I think the ruby melee has helped the spinel seem redder. I think a usual diamond halo would have killed the stone.

Stunning ring!

 

[ChaiK]

Stunning ring!

Thank you.

 

[ChaiK]

TL- he does not appear to do all the work himself anymore. Last week when he gave me a progress report on a ring he is making for me, he said it was with the "setters". Since one of the gems is a paraiba being placed into a bezel I am a bit nervous.

And I just read thru this whole thread hoping to see the end result... and nothing!! Please come back and post your beautiful ring!!

David does try his best. Even if someone else was doing it for him, I feel like David ensures it looks like his work. He will certainly try to correct the errors, even if it takes a few rounds of persuasion and explaining.

Maybe make sure you are not busy when reading his replies and make your response very to the point. Like a, b, and c.

I love David's work. This ring has a very luxe feel to it. You know where the shank is? It has a rounded very luxe feel to it. Not too much gold, but still very plush.

Wriston of Asiatique Fine Jewellery in Singapore is the other person I like to use.

 

[pinkjewel]

David does try his best. Even if someone else was doing it for him, I feel like David ensures it looks like his work. He will certainly try to correct the errors, even if it takes a few rounds of persuasion and explaining.

Maybe make sure you are not busy when reading his replies and make your response very to the point. Like a, b, and c.

I love David's work. This ring has a very luxe feel to it. You know where the shank is? It has a rounded very luxe feel to it. Not too much gold, but still very plush.

Wriston of Asiatique Fine Jewellery in Singapore is the other person I like to use.

Thank you for coming back and showing the end result- it is gorgeous!!

Oh, and I agree with you about David. He has made several rings for me and they have all been beautiful!! I was just surprised to learn that he now has other people working for him whereas last time I had a ring made he did everything himself.

 

[Autumn in New England]

It looks perfect! So happy you're pleased with the end result!!

 

[Cinders]

That spinel is huge! And the ring is gorgeous!! I totally agree that going with standard diamonds would have been a bad idea. Wear it in good health!