Designing my 20th Anniversary Ring

[Dreamer_D]

My fave 3 stone ratio is 8mm with 5mm sides Sometimes I wish that is what I did with my 8mm. But like you said - you collect the small ones and then there are the setting prices - egad! So I agree that going with the 5 stone one first makes the most sense.

Edit - I also love the proportions of @Skymonkey2000 's ring and how she set it. I haven't seen her pop up here in a while. It's divine. https://www.pricescope.com/communit...one-ring-found-thanks-to-pricescopers.271991/

Yeah, I agree those proportions do look pretty nice. When I was planning my three stone reset back in 2019, I just didn’t have the budget to be able to buy large side stones, although of course, in retrospect, I should have just spent the money. But also at that time, my diamond was set in an enclosed mounting that really emphasized the angularity of the cut and so it really felt like it did not match with more classic OEC proportions. But as soon as I had the diamond loose and now that it’s in a very open six prong mounting, the faceting looks much more flowery, and it really seems to play nicely with the more classic, later, flowery OEC style. That opens up a lot more options because diamonds cut identically to my diamond are virtually impossible to find. I couldn’t find a single one. But finding a really perfectly cut flowery OEC is much easier to do. Not “easy“ but easier.

My plan is to wait until the OEC that I bought that is currently in postal jail arrives, and see how well that one matches the LVS2 that I have currently — Linda for anyone who’s playing along. Linda is the most absolutely perfect of the flowery OECs that I currently own and the new one is similarly perfect. If those two stones are as amazing a match as I think they might be and if they really do match my 8 mm I might put those aside and hang onto them and find another 5 mm for the five stone. We shall see!

 

[Dreamer_D]

And since everyone is around this morning, I will post about how I’m waffling about setting again and keep wondering if I shouldn’t just be choosing an ultra simple shared prong, really low set daily driver, kind of mounting which will not only cost me less, but also be more practical for daily wear. That is where I’m at in this terrible decision/non-decision process!

 

[newtojewels]

And since everyone is around this morning, I will post about how I’m waffling about setting again and keep wondering if I shouldn’t just be choosing an ultra simple shared prong, really low set daily driver, kind of mounting which will not only cost me less, but also be more practical for daily wear. That is where I’m at in this terrible decision/non-decision process!

One setting to rule them all!

But seriously, I think you're a jewelry person and not just a diamond person and I don't think the setting you're considering now would be too impractical. So basically I think you should get the more special setting, for whatever that's worth.

 

[lulu_ma]

I also hope that you’ll get the more elaborate setting. I just enjoy the gallery of my five stone ring so much!

 

[Mreader]

One setting to rule them all!

But seriously, I think you're a jewelry person and not just a diamond person and I don't think the setting you're considering now would be too impractical. So basically I think you should get the more special setting, for whatever that's worth.

Ditto!

 

[Dreamer_D]

OK! Yes. You are all absolutely right! I was feeling nervous about the decision because I was digging through my old pictures and came across some photos of the five stone I sold about five years ago. It was about 1.5cctw. The diamonds were gorgeous but I almost never wore it! I got it in 2014 and I had little kids at the time and it was a different place in my life. But the prongs were really scratchy and uncomfortable. And then I started freaking out about getting another ring with a billion prongs and not liking that feeling either!



(Note that my finger size is so much smaller here, these diamonds look huge lol)


So that's why I'm trying to minimize the prongs and definitely no pointy ones.

So help me decide about prongs!

I definitely want to do little V-prongs between the diamonds. I think they will be very smooth and won't catch on things or poke. DK has done some really nice examples of larger-scale cluster rings. Like this one has 4mm diamonds in the halo, so they should scale up nicely to my 5 mm stones. And its a classic design element in the era on both Victorian swoopy baskets like @Mreader has and also fleur de lis baskets from the Edwardian and Deco eras.



The decision I am making is whether to do a double or single prong in the middle.

Double version scaled to my CADs.


And I would aim for a finish like this (but with more delicate Vs between the stones):


Or a single prong like this:


Aiming for a finish like this (but with deeper more delicate Vs):



I like the way the split prongs look from the gallery view. But I also prefer fewer prongs. I'm leaning single and if I went that way I would find a way of shaping the single prong on the gallery that was more interesting that just a straight up line. With a single prong I could probably also lower the height about half a millimeter without sacrificing aesthetic

 

[maryjane04]

OK! Yes. You are all absolutely right! I was feeling nervous about the decision because I was digging through my old pictures and came across some photos of the five stone I sold about five years ago. It was about 1.5cctw. The diamonds were gorgeous but I almost never wore it! I got it in 2014 and I had little kids at the time and it was a different place in my life. But the prongs were really scratchy and uncomfortable. And then I started freaking out about getting another ring with a billion prongs and not liking that feeling either!



(Note that my finger size is so much smaller here, these diamonds look huge lol)


So that's why I'm trying to minimize the prongs and definitely no pointy ones.

So help me decide about prongs!

I definitely want to do little V-prongs between the diamonds. I think they will be very smooth and won't catch on things or poke. DK has done some really nice examples of larger-scale cluster rings. Like this one has 4mm diamonds in the halo, so they should scale up nicely to my 5 mm stones. And its a classic design element in the era on both Victorian swoopy baskets like @Mreader has and also fleur de lis baskets from the Edwardian and Deco eras.



The decision I am making is whether to do a double or single prong in the middle.

Double version scaled to my CADs.


And I would aim for a finish like this (but with more delicate Vs between the stones):


Or a single prong like this:


Aiming for a finish like this (but with deeper more delicate Vs):



I like the way the split prongs look from the gallery view. But I also prefer fewer prongs. I'm leaning single and if I went that way I would find a way of shaping the single prong on the gallery that was more interesting that just a straight up line. With a single prong I could probably also lower the height about half a millimeter without sacrificing aesthetic

Oh gosh I'm feeling the exact same. I don't wear my cluster ring much because of all the prongs and it catches onto things. I also love that our finger sizes grew lol darn kids.

And my vote is for the double prongs. They just look so nice and such a nice little detail.

 

[lulu_ma]

Mine has fishtail double prongs-they only split at the girdle into mini tabs.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Welp. After all that waiting I think this was a risk that did not pay off. The diamond is graded J VVS1 by IGL which apparently means a monkey with a dartboard graded it I guess! The diamond is beautifully cut and very clean, which I love. But it has a noticeable brown tint. It’s actually pretty on its own. It ranges from a light champagne to a deep russet depending on the lighting. But it is noticeably different from my other diamonds.

The new stone is in the middle in all these photos between a GIA K and L.

Obviously the body tint is most noticeable face down.


In other situations it just look darker than the other stones.

It’s beautifully cut. I see what you mean about the color. Will you still keep it?

I’m unsure. I just pulled the other three diamonds out of the setting so I have six little half carat OEC babies loose I’ll post more pictures and thoughts over in my project thread.

@Dreamer_D i really like it. I think they go well together and a slight variation in color is charming. Can you link me to the seller, please?

I tend to agree!

Seller is starlight.diamonds. They have a number of old cuts but here’s the kicker: they are not labelled as old cuts lol So ya gotta hunt. Offer like half the asking price or less.

Security Measure

www.ebay.ca

^^ Just for the record, some conversation from the other thread.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I pulled the original three stones from the setting so now I have all six diamonds loose

Would a six-stone be weird?

 

[Dreamer_D]

In case you are wondering who is who.

 

[lulu_ma]

Love the stones, but how would 30 mm arch on your finger?

 

[Dreamer_D]

Love the stones, but how would 30 mm arch on your finger?

Size 10.5 helps.

5 vs 6.

 

[maryjane04]

Love the stones, but how would 30 mm arch on your finger?

Haha I was just thinking this but didn't want to suggest a 6 stone ring lol definitely could work as a pointer finger ring!

 

[newtojewels]

Size 10.5 helps.

5 vs 6.

well this looks promising for a 6 stone......

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

6 stone pointer finger… that has a nice *ring* to it

Little Miss Perfect …. She’s my favorite

 

[lulu_ma]

Size 10.5 helps.

5 vs 6.

Can you get a wax to try before the ring is made? It looks like it would be comfortable, but a wax would ensure that ring feels right on the edges.

 

[MissGotRocks]

So why do you always see a five, seven or nine stone ring? Must be a reason they only use odd numbers when making these rings. I too would want a wax to see it visually before committing, but I think it could work!!

 

[newtojewels]

Smaller scale, but JbG always has a few 6-stone bands:

1.05ctw Old Mine Cut Diamond 6-Stone Band

Modeled after antique diamond half-hoop bands from the Georgian and Victorian eras, this 6-stone band is set with chunky and charming old mine cut diamonds in 18kt yellow gold! The diamonds are bright and sparkly, twinkly and sparking brightly - so beautiful and elegant on the finger. This is...

jewelsbygrace.com

1.24ctw Old Mine Cut Diamond 6-Stone Band

Modeled after antique diamond bands from the Georgian and Victorian eras, this 6-stone band is set with chunky and charming old mine cut diamonds in simple settings with swoopy, airy gallery details. The diamonds are bright and sparkly and just looks so beautiful and elegant on the finger. Our...

jewelsbygrace.com

 

[Dreamer_D]

So why do you always see a five, seven or nine stone ring? Must be a reason they only use odd numbers when making these rings. I too would want a wax to see it visually before committing, but I think it could work!!

I’ve been wondering that too. I think it’s because such arrangements place a single stone right in the center of the finger in a place of prominence.

@newtojewels those are great examples! Thank you for hunting them down. I’ve been doing my own sleuthing and I’ve found a handful of antique six stones, but they are uncommon.

@lulu_ma I will definitely get a plastic model before going to production, no matter what.

But this decision may be made for me because as of right now I am leaning towards returning Bubbly. She is the most perfectly cut OEC, and as the pictures show she fits into the group very well in many lighting situations. But after seeing all the stones loose and playing with them in different lighting, Bubbly’s color just stands out too much from the group. I think if there was variation in color among all the stones it would be fine, or if Bubbly had a stronger yellow body tint than the rest. But the other five stones are just so perfectly matched. All in the J-L range and all with a yellow undertone. Having one (likely) M faint brown in the bunch doesn’t work for me. I was always able to identify Bubbly in the group no matter how I mixed the stones up and I don’t like that. She’s especially noticeable in spot lighting.

 

[Lookinagain]

I’ve been wondering that too. I think it’s because such arrangements place a single stone right in the center of the finger in a place of prominence.

I was just about to post the same thing. The odd number allows a "middle" stone.

I'm sorry you may need to return Bubbly. I love stones with brown undertones.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I was just about to post the same thing. The odd number allows a "middle" stone.

Agreed. A five stone creates a “ring” look whereas six is more of a “band” look to my eye.

I'm sorry you may need to return Bubbly. I love stones with brown undertones.

Well I’m keeping Bubbly after all. Not sure yet what I’ll do with her but the vendor offered a 20% refund to keep her and it seemed silly to turn it down.

Loving having six little babies to play with. Here’s some photos in various lighting.

 

[Lookinagain]

Agreed. A five stone creates a “ring” look whereas six is more of a “band” look to my eye.



Well I’m keeping Bubbly after all. Not sure yet what I’ll do with her but the vendor offered a 20% refund to keep her and it seemed silly to turn it down.

Loving having six little babies to play with. Here’s some photos in various lighting.

I'm glad that you're keeping her and managed an even better price. Good job.

The stones a beautiful. Are you going to look for another "6th" or stay with a 5 stone ring?

Not sure if you have a pendant already but Bubbly would look great as one. Do you set in yellow or rose as well as white metal? I find that my stones with brown tint look very white in rose and yellow.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I'm glad that you're keeping her and managed an even better price. Good job.

I wasn’t trying for a refund I swear. But I couldn’t resist when they offered.

The stones a beautiful. Are you going to look for another "6th" or stay with a 5 stone ring?

No I am done hunting and buying diamonds for how. The ring will come from these diamonds unless David says he cannot set one for some reason but I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. I’m deep in CAD revisions now but it’s getting so close! Looooving the v-tip prongs and semi-bezel end stones. Leaning towards a 5 stone today. I might see about getting a plastic model of both options to see if it helps me decide.

Not sure if you have a pendant already but Bubbly would look great as one. Do you set in yellow or rose as well as white metal? I find that my stones with brown tint look very white in rose and yellow.

I might set her in a pendant with Yvonne, like this, in rose gold! I have all the sapphires already. Bubbly is too small for a solo pendant. I need a big pendant to fit my generous proportions

 

[Lookinagain]

I wasn’t trying for a refund I swear. But I couldn’t resist when they offered.

Hah, I couldn't either!

No I am done hunting and buying diamonds for how. The ring will come from these diamonds unless David says he cannot set one for some reason but I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. I’m deep in CAD revisions now but it’s getting so close! Looooving the v-tip prongs and semi-bezel end stones. Leaning towards a 5 stone today. I might see about getting a plastic model of both options to see if it helps me decide.

No reason not to get a plastic of both. Better than asking for a reset.

I might set her in a pendant with Yvonne, like this, in rose gold! I have all the sapphires already. Bubbly is too small for a solo pendant. I need a big pendant to fit my generous proportions

I think rose will definitely work well with her color. love the design of the pendant idea.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Artsy glamour shots.

Sally. Kozibe galore I really love her. Some extremely thin areas on her girdle.



Bubbly. Gorgeous pinwheel pavilion mains. Excellent girdle.



Rita. Like many grand dames she looks best from a distance. Her girdle has some areas that are extremely thin.



Miss Perfect. She has a very strong girdle.


Miss Kay


Miss K and Linda, both have nice robust girdles.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

I love the photo shoot with your babies… all the time put into finding each of these is going to make this such a special piece. I love the idea of having a rare 6 stone, but if your eye drifts towards Bubbly then I am with you on the 5 stone. I’m so excited for this project for you… I love seeing your updates on this, you’ve put so much thought into this… it’s going to be an incredible ring!

Faint brownie pinks in rose gold is such a beautiful combo. What color sapphires do you have?

 

[Dreamer_D]

I love the photo shoot with your babies… all the time put into finding each of these is going to make this such a special piece. I love the idea of having a rare 6 stone, but if your eye drifts towards Bubbly then I am with you on the 5 stone. I’m so excited for this project for you… I love seeing your updates on this, you’ve put so much thought into this… it’s going to be an incredible ring!

I think this enterprise was motivated more from desperation than anything! I am too poor to just buy a ring like this ready made. Retail for a 2.75cttw band seems to be about $10-12k USD. My cost when I am done will be about than $3800 USD... in money anyway I don't even want to count all the hours I have spent on ebay! It took 12 months of daily searching to source all these little babies.

Special thanks go out to the rise of lab diamonds!! That rise prompted scrap diamond sellers to begin offering lab reports on all their natural diamonds. That is really what made this possible, as without lab reports its just impossible to put together a suite like this. I should know! I tried so hard about 15 years ago to do just that and gave up.

Anyway, you know what the hustle and grind looks like to feed this hobby/obsession

Faint brownie pinks in rose gold is such a beautiful combo. What color sapphires do you have?

These are my sapphires in this picture! All untreated, natural. I photoshopped them into a new ring layout the Yvonne has that fits the size stones I have been collecting. I think it will make a cool pendant, it looks vaguely celestial.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

I thought that might be the case!!! Your sapphires are absolutely gorgeous! 12 months of your searching … it was *so* worth it. You labor of love will bring you so much more joy every time you look at it - for such a piece would never have been, without your time and eye for the beautiful!

And boy do I ever know the hustle & grind, the hours spent training my eye for what to look for, to all the time behind the screen looking for the one…. It was so worth it!

I cannot wait to see your 5 stone come together!

 

[Heathcat24]

I seriously love this thread and this project, @Dreamer_D ! How wonderful that every one of your stones has a story and personality and was personally selected by you. That makes it so special and unique and no one else in the world will have a ring exactly like yours. I also LOVE the sapphires and design for the pendant!

I have been buying "one more stone" for several years - mainly different shapes of K BGD H&A diamonds - not knowing really what they would eventually be! But I really did/do love getting them out and playing with them and imagining!

I eventually decided I needed a Jeff White sapphire in the center and that I wanted a "companion pendant" to go with my CVB Sapphire ring. I am FINALLY ready to set (most of) them into a pendant! At least 5 different shapes! (I also wound up with enough baby K Quadexes for a five stone ring eventually, but let's not talk about that. Lol)

There is a two week club, but I think we need more of a two year club for things like this. I would love to follow more long term projects. I can't wait to see your ring AND your pendant!