Designing my 20th Anniversary Ring

[Dreamer_D]

So ring finger or middle finger only-not pointer? I feel like the pointer finger rings can get banged up more easily-at least that is my personal observation-or maybe I'm just a klutz

If you're planning on ring or middle finger wear, I say go for prongs with beautiful baskets! Perhaps prongs like these bc you get a bit more girdle protection-but I'd like to see a top view, too.

I don’t want claw prongs so I kind of like these little delicate ball prongs.

 

[lulu_ma]

I don’t want claw prongs so I kind of like these little delicate ball prongs.

The prongs on my ring are like mini tabs.

 

[Dreamer_D]

The prongs on my ring are like mini tabs.

Yes! Now, yours have been worn down for 100 years so they look so perfectly smooth, but “mini-tab” does seem like the best description! I like them a lot.

EDIT: And UGH those diamonds kill me! The cuts are so perfect.

 

[lulu_ma]

Yes! Now, yours have been worn down for 100 years so they look so perfectly smooth, but “mini-tab” does seem like the best description! I like them a lot.

EDIT: And UGH those diamonds kill me! The cuts are so perfect.

Thanks so much. I got very lucky!

 

[LightBright]

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[LightBright]

These use a lot of metal to make the space look like a uniform diamond or gemstone bar vs individual stones.

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[LightBright]

I get what you want now.

I think you can achieve a uniform diamond “band” look - through the use of bezels, partial bezels shared or tab prongs etc.

I just spammed the thread with more ideas.

I hear you on not wanting fussy sticky uppy prongs.

I have an aversion to anything sharp or pointed that sticks up and gets caught and visually looks prongy. Lots of little prongs visually interrupt sleek lines you are looking for.

If you like the clean look of bezels maybe consider something like the last ring I posted (without the beady prongs) or those you’ve identified with a beautiful basket detail underneath bezels. Bezels can be done to make the stones all look uniform.

 

[LightBright]

I don’t want claw prongs so I kind of like these little delicate ball prongs.

The Andria Barbone ring is so wonderful! Perfect low setting, flattened prongs, beautiful basket detailing.

I’m curious if you will be doing two tone metal (gold base white basket).

 

[Dreamer_D]

@LightBright Those are all excellent inspirations and many I had not seen!

The Andria Barbone ring is so wonderful!

it is. I think it’s a true antique not one of their reproductions.

Faux bezels could also handle the wonk. This is a very interesting gallery design combined with some type of faux bezel or bezel around just the outside of the stones...

 

[LightBright]

Yes I agree, some sort of bezel work CAN handle the wonk.

 

[Dreamer_D]

The Andria Barbone ring is so wonderful! Perfect low setting, flattened prongs, beautiful basket detailing.

Here is the Barbone. It is a true antique as I thought. Which is good bc I won't feel qualms about recreating.

Antique Sapphire and Diamond Half Hoop Ring

Antique Sapphire and Diamond Half Hoop Ring The Hope ring is an authentic vintage diamond ring from the Art Deco Era circa 1920. The ring features three Oval Cut Cambodian No Heat sapphires totaling approximately 1.10 carats. Between the sapphires are two Old Mine Cut diamonds of approximately...

andriabarbone.com

I’m curious if you will be doing two tone metal (gold base white basket).

It would be my preference to have a gold shank and possibly even a gold bridge but platinum baskets. That wouldn't be authentic to the era for these types of fleur-de-lis designs though. They are from the Edwardian/Deco eras and usually would be all platinum. They are also a much later era than my stones were likely cut, them being OMC/OEC hybrids. I'm not sure I care about all that though lol

 

[Lookinagain]

But I would only wear it as a RHR when I was dressed up for work or an evening out.

Okay, well if this is the case, then I wouldn't worry so much about the protection issue. I assumed (wrongfully) that this would be an everyday ring. But if not, and if you baby your rings, then I say just go with the look you want. Also, I think that if not an every day ring, it may not need to be as low set and you can play with the gallery a bit more (while still not making it "high").

 

[Dreamer_D]

Okay, well if this is the case, then I wouldn't worry so much about the protection issue. I assumed (wrongfully) that this would be an everyday ring. But if not, and if you baby your rings, then I say just go with the look you want. Also, I think that if not an every day ring, it may not need to be as low set and you can play with the gallery a bit more (while still not making it "high").

I think part of what is holding me up right now is that I am pulled in two directions about this ring. On one hand I fantasize about a daily wear ring that will be low and practical. And on the other an ornate setting that is less practical but really stands out aesthetically to me and is what I have always desired.

I’m not sure five half carat diamonds are even suited to a practical daily wear lol At least not for me. Like, bezel set 5mm stones will have a 7mm diameter which is very large for this style of band.

And if I leave the fantasy and think practically about how I wear my rings now, I suspect this won’t be a daily wear, as I said. I had envisioned that my star sapphire ring would be a daily wear RHR but in actuality I wear her about twice a week, for example.

I don’t wear my diamonds around the house or doing chores. I wear my ering every day when I leave the house and take it off when I come home, but don’t wear it if I’m going to do anything physical like a hike or going to the beach. I imagine this ring will sometimes take the place of ering to be worn the same way. And when I have special meetings at work a few days a week or going out at night I will wear this ring and my five stone together. But yeah, I think in general my lifestyle is probably too casual to wear all my larger diamonds at the same time every day, even if I found it comfortable to wear so many larger gems (I don’t). Academics don’t tend to wear any jewels at all! I am already unusual in that regard, even among the upper admin people (Deans etc) who I work with more often now and in the future, as I transition to more senior leadership roles.

It’s good to talk it out. I’ve been vacillating about this for months!

 

[Lookinagain]

on the other an ornate setting that is less practical but really stands out aesthetically to me and is what I have always desired.

Well, my answer is to go with what you have always desired. Otherwise, the itch might not be scratched. And wear it when you feel like it, and the rest of the time, just think about having the ring that you have always desired!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Well, my answer is to go with what you have always desired. Otherwise, the itch might not be scratched. And wear it when you feel like it, and the rest of the time, just think about having the ring that you have always desired!

Exactly! And I keep reminding myself that I will have other rings. I will make a bezel band for casual wear with smaller gems in the future.

 

[Pumpkin Sparkles]

I definitely want platinum or white metal prongs, as I prefer the way diamonds in this color range look with white metal and how the prongs disappear against diamonds. And I prefer a yellow gold shank because I want to wear this ring with a gold wb sometimes. But if the aesthetic will not fit with two tone I will make that sacrifice…. Though my preference is two tone even if it isn’t period appropriate!

I think the two-tone will look amazing. I’m impartial to two-tone, either way I love the direction you’re going.
From the 2 pieces of jewelry I’ve seen of yours, the engagement ring and your star sapphire there is no doubt this is going to be just as stunning.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Here is the design I am pondering, based on a ring David Klass made a few years back with a lovely fleur-de-lis gallery (I would ask him to make the ring). Shout out to @lulu_ma, @Mreader, and @Cerulean whose beautiful prongs and engraving I included in the design board.



The shank is from an antique ring from Barganza that @LightBright shared from IG, up above. I love a dramatic taper and how the shank swoops up to meet the gallery. This kind of design element makes the gallery and gems feel connected and grounded to the finger IMO (both my other rings have this feature to some degree lol)



Many moons ago @yssie commented about how differing textures can help two-tone jewelry be more harmonious. I tend to agree. In the inspo ring there is a grooved millegrain texture on the shank. My e-ring has engraving and millegrain all over the YG and the Plat is smooth. With this ring my hope would be for the engraving to mimic the botanical aspect of the gallery. The gallery would remain smooth high polish.

I'm also thinking a little about metal choices to help bring the design aesthetic of the ring in the direction I want. The typical fleur-de-lis style of five stone is all platinum and it has a very Deco vibe, which I love but it’s not really my style. I'd like my three main rings to have a cohesive aesthetic. So my goal with the design changes I'm thinking about is to make the ring a little less Great Gatsby…



… and a little more Lord of the Rings.



I've been thinking a little about how metal choice might help with this.

My CVB three stone is 18k yellow and platinum. I was initially thinking of using the same metals for this ring but I’m pondering doing something different. Both for fun and also for aesthetics. 18k YG is very saturated and has a bit of a green undertone, and platinum can be very white. It’s a big contrast between the metals.

I’m thinking about choosing metals that will be more tone on tone. Like perhaps 14k yellow with unplated white gold prongs. The subtle difference in color feels very organic, which I want to play up in this design.



Here is an example of plat (left) and unplated WG (right). Subtle but noticable.



I do have an antique Belais WB that is unplated 18k WG and I like how it plays with yellow, even though I think it is an unusually grey alloy. Here is 14k yellow, unplated 18k white gold, 18k yellow.




I do prefer the softer color of 14k YG, but the richness of 18k cannot be denied. Apparently David has an "antique yellow" alloy he makes in house that is even more saturated! That is attractive as well. Picture from @CHRISTY-DANIELLE. Antique gold with grey gold would be super contrasty and maybe quite gothic in feel, which I like.



Anyway. Metal choice will likely be the last decision I make, but this is where my thoughts are going the past few days.

 

[lulu_ma]

Can’t wait for this ring to be done! And love the look the Antique Gold. I feel like someone just used that color in a ring…

 

[Lookinagain]

Here is the design I am pondering, based on a ring David Klass made a few years back with a lovely fleur-de-lis gallery (I would ask him to make the ring). Shout out to @lulu_ma, @Mreader, and @Cerulean whose beautiful prongs and engraving I included in the design board.



The shank is from an antique ring from Barganza that @LightBright shared from IG, up above. I love a dramatic taper and how the shank swoops up to meet the gallery. This kind of design element makes the gallery and gems feel connected and grounded to the finger IMO (both my other rings have this feature to some degree lol)



Many moons ago @yssie commented about how differing textures can help two-tone jewelry be more harmonious. I tend to agree. In the inspo ring there is a grooved millegrain texture on the shank. My e-ring has engraving and millegrain all over the YG and the Plat is smooth. With this ring my hope would be for the engraving to mimic the botanical aspect of the gallery. The gallery would remain smooth high polish.

I'm also thinking a little about metal choices to help bring the design aesthetic of the ring in the direction I want. The typical fleur-de-lis style of five stone is all platinum and it has a very Deco vibe, which I love but it’s not really my style. I'd like my three main rings to have a cohesive aesthetic. So my goal with the design changes I'm thinking about is to make the ring a little less Great Gatsby…



… and a little more Lord of the Rings.



I've been thinking a little about how metal choice might help with this.

My CVB three stone is 18k yellow and platinum. I was initially thinking of using the same metals for this ring but I’m pondering doing something different. Both for fun and also for aesthetics. 18k YG is very saturated and has a bit of a green undertone, and platinum can be very white. It’s a big contrast between the metals.

I’m thinking about choosing metals that will be more tone on tone. Like perhaps 14k yellow with unplated white gold prongs. The subtle difference in color feels very organic, which I want to play up in this design.



Here is an example of plat (left) and unplated WG (right). Subtle but noticable.



I do have an antique Belais WB that is unplated 18k WG and I like how it plays with yellow, even though I think it is an unusually grey alloy. Here is 14k yellow, unplated 18k white gold, 18k yellow.




I do prefer the softer color of 14k YG, but the richness of 18k cannot be denied. Apparently David has an "antique yellow" alloy he makes in house that is even more saturated! That is attractive as well. Picture from @CHRISTY-DANIELLE. Antique gold with grey gold would be super contrasty and maybe quite gothic in feel, which I like.



Anyway. Metal choice will likely be the last decision I make, but this is where my thoughts are going the past few days.

I love the direction that you are going in. DK also has an 14k antique yellow if you're considering 14k yellow. these two rings of mine are his 14k antique.

 

[newtojewels]

I can't wait to see the CADs and then the final ring! This is going to be so stunning and so you.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I love the direction that you are going in. DK also has an 14k antique yellow if you're considering 14k yellow. these two rings of mine are his 14k antique.

I wonder if you have a picture of this gold compared to regular 14k?

I do like this antique richness. The downside is that I would probably have to buy a wedding band from DK to match it... I am discovering I am a (color) matching person!

 

[Lookinagain]

I wonder if you have a picture of this gold compared to regular 14k?

I do like this antique richness. The downside is that I would probably have to buy a wedding band from DK to match it... I am discovering I am a (color) matching person!

It's a pretty subtle difference, seems less different than the 18k example.

Antique 14k on left, regular DK 14k on right in both photos

 

[Dreamer_D]

It's a pretty subtle difference, seems less different than the 18k example.

Antique 14k on left, regular DK 14k on right in both photos

Thank you! I can see a difference. Subtle but present.

 

[Dreamer_D]

@Lookinagain I noticed in an old thread I came across that you have a ring that is yellow gold and unplated white. What karat are the golds? And I wonder if you can comment on the look of unplated wg compared to platinum with your old cuts?

My second project with David arrived today. The diamond is an ebay find, uncerted, listed as an L but David guesses it's more like a P. 1.23 ct, VS. Anyway, since it was so warm, we decided to use yellow and unplated white gold. I'm actually really enjoying this warm little diamond and I think David did a great job accomplishing what I asked for in the setting. Excuse the lint please.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I got some CADs! Not ready to share as I’m pondering and taking my time, and I’d like to make some changes to the shank before sharing… but here’s a sneak peek because I’d like to get opinions about the height of the diamonds.



4.5mm isn’t low-low, but I don’t think it can go lower without compromising the basket design. Curious about how high some of your five stones are. The side stones in my three stone are 4mm and it feels pretty low compared to my center stone, which is 6.5mm.

 

[newtojewels]

I got some CADs! Not ready to share as I’m pondering and taking my time, and I’d like to make some changes to the shank before sharing… but here’s a sneak peek because I’d like to get opinions about the height of the diamonds.



4.5mm isn’t low-low, but I don’t think it can go lower without compromising the basket design. Curious about how high some of your five stones are. The side stones in my three stone are 4mm and it feels pretty low compared to my center stone, which is 6.5mm.

Do you think those diamonds are the same depth (roughly) as yours?

 

[Dreamer_D]

Do you think those diamonds are the same depth (roughly) as yours?

Good question! Using my handy calipers to measure them on the CAD they look about 3mm deep. Mine are about 3.15 to 3.45mm deep. So I’m not even sure it could be lowered much even if it was possible! I think trying to lower it would scrunch the arches or I’d lose the split in the prongs.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Measuring some more it looks like this height would out the cutlets right above the donuts and that feels about perfect to me aesthetically.

 

[newtojewels]

Measuring some more it looks like this height would out the cutlets right above the donuts and that feels about perfect to me aesthetically.

I think culets right above donuts would be the perfect height!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I think culets right above donuts would be the perfect height!

Yes and at this height if I wear a wedding band it won’t cover any of the swoops, it would hit right below, which I think is also just perfect. It would looks squatty with a wb if it was any lower.