Designing my 20th Anniversary Ring

[molecule]

Do you have any more images of that first ring or a link by chance? I love it and the engraving and the way the shank meets the baskets is really perfection. Image search isn’t helping me though!

I also appreciate the way you approach choosing by describing the designs.

Antique Victorian Ruby and Diamond Trilogy Ring, Independent Assessment, Old Brilliant Cut Diamonds, Ring Size M/6 - Etsy

This Multi-Stone Rings item by TheBathJeweller has 96 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from United Kingdom. Listed on Sep 23, 2021

www.etsy.com

 

[Dreamer_D]

@elle_chris this is my thread about my five stone project! I’d love to know your ideas!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I decided to read this threat again as I am very deep in the "banging my head on the wall" phase.... I mean... the design phase of this process. Trying to narrow down what I want. As usual I want it all! I was very low set and also raised. I want open design with prongs and I want an enclosed setting that will protect my stones.

Anyway, I saw this post inspo by @pancake in a new light this time around...

I came across this today. I don't know what is with the prong thingies, but love the proportions and the flow of the bezel around the whole family!

Here are a couple more angles:





What is interesting about this is that I have recently been admiring @Caseylouou's five stone by DK which has a very similar design. Her band pulls the prongs in to be more pinched. I have been wondering what a similar faux-bezel style would look like with larger diamonds line mine, and I think the Jack Weir antique answers that question! I also like the simplified gallery of the antique version, though I would like it lower.

 

[pancake]

I decided to read this threat again as I am very deep in the "banging my head on the wall" phase.... I mean... the design phase of this process. Trying to narrow down what I want. As usual I want it all! I was very low set and also raised. I want open design with prongs and I want an enclosed setting that will protect my stones.

Anyway, I saw this post inspo by @pancake in a new light this time around...


Here are a couple more angles:





What is interesting about this is that I have recently been admiring @Caseylouou's five stone by DK which has a very similar design. Her band pulls the prongs in to be more pinched. I have been wondering what a similar faux-bezel style would look like with larger diamonds line mine, and I think the Jack Weir antique answers that question! I also like the simplified gallery of the antique version, though I would like it lower.

I'm going to add to this with my friend's new five stone oval ring - this is nothing like what you are making, but I include it to show you how lovely pinched prongs can be and how unobtrusive. I think this concept would work for you too Dreamer...I have the same ring only my prongs are less split.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

Hmmm.,. This is making me think of a ruby diamond ring I fell for that Lang posted this past spring….

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

Here’s one more with a setting that you might like…

 

[Dreamer_D]

I'm going to add to this with my friend's new five stone oval ring - this is nothing like what you are making, but I include it to show you how lovely pinched prongs can be and how unobtrusive. I think this concept would work for you too Dreamer...I have the same ring only my prongs are less split.

Yes, I have been thinking as well about a simple, low, practical setting along these lines.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Here’s one more with a setting that you might like…

Great minds: both of these are in my inspo folder!

 

[Dreamer_D]

My current dilemma is how protective I need the setting to be. I think resolving that will help me narrow the style I want. The two stones with lab reports have thin to medium girdles. The three in the ring have some areas that look thin to me, and already some small areas of damage. They are currently in 6 pong mounts and the damage is between the prongs.

Should I be narrowing my focus to bezels and faux bezels? Or would 6 prongs be protective enough? Wondering if I need to eliminate four prong and shared prong styles or styles that leave the girdles exposed.

Thoughts? Love to hear anyone's opinions and tagging some folks too @lulu_ma , @Lookinagain @LightBright @oldcutclubmember @yssie @lala646 @newtojewels

 

[luckygreen317]

I decided to read this threat again as I am very deep in the "banging my head on the wall" phase.... I mean... the design phase of this process. Trying to narrow down what I want. As usual I want it all! I was very low set and also raised. I want open design with prongs and I want an enclosed setting that will protect my stones.

Anyway, I saw this post inspo by @pancake in a new light this time around...


Here are a couple more angles:





What is interesting about this is that I have recently been admiring @Caseylouou's five stone by DK which has a very similar design. Her band pulls the prongs in to be more pinched. I have been wondering what a similar faux-bezel style would look like with larger diamonds line mine, and I think the Jack Weir antique answers that question! I also like the simplified gallery of the antique version, though I would like it lower.

My 5-stone reset was inspired by this beautiful ring!

The first was a stock 4 prong setting which was always a placeholder. The first reset through DK was set too high for practical daily wear. The 3rd time was the charm.

I opted for ultafine bezels and the open bridge allowed the stones to sit lower on the finger. The stones sparkle like crazy in their forever-home. The ring is very comfortable, the stones are protected and the craftmanship is beautiful.

 

[Pumpkin Sparkles]

@Dreamer_D

This is going to be an amazing 5 stone ring! Are you planning on doing 2 tone or just gold? Whatever you choose, it’s going to look amazing!

 

[newtojewels]

You know I'm no help on girdle but I am so excited for you for this ring!

Did you see this one, thinking about a taller/more exposed setting? 2.75ctw, size 6.25. I think the height is a bit excessive but the ctw is similar to yours and it's sort of 6-prong-ish shared prong so I thought it was worth posting.

2.75 Carat Diamond Antique Five-Stone Ring

A coruscating quintet of European-cut diamonds, totaling 2.75 carats, create a continuous flash across your finger in this otherwise rather simple, classic Victorian ring, hand fabricated in rich 18K yellow gold, with a repousse style upper ring shank. Circa early-twentieth century. Understated...

www.langantiques.com

 

[Lookinagain]

I also like the simplified gallery of the antique version, though I would like it lower.

I like the Jack Weir one as well, but I'd probably use claw prongs. I am a fan of faux bezels so that sways me. I might want to see it without the milgrain first and then decide if I wanted it.

If you don't want to go that route, then I'd do something like this one, lower of course.

I have a similar ring, but my stones are graduated. It's very simple with a plain gallery and I put 8 prongs on the center stone. But the other stones have 6.

 

[LightBright]

Here’s one more with a setting that you might like…

I think this setting is gorgeous and I like to see the pavilion with antique stones. The detailing of the side view is really beautiful! This is as far as I would go to protect the girdles, which I’m not worried about too much anyway unless you wear your ring to garden.

My MIL never takes her four prong engagement ring off. She gardens and bakes and does grandkid stuff. She chipped the girdle of her diamond on a stainless steel key and key-ring unlocking her car door same time as injuring her hand. Otherwise no chipping.

I personally wouldn’t bezel antique stones unless you really like the look. Bezeling antiques will accentuate size and shape differences unless you adjust the bezels. Bezeling makes diamonds more contrasty and could make them look steelier.

My opinion is that you should pick your favorite setting to make and not worry too much about the girdles. It’s a special ring, do what you will love!

 

[Dreamer_D]

My 5-stone reset was inspired by this beautiful ring!

The first was a stock 4 prong setting which was always a placeholder. The first reset through DK was set too high for practical daily wear. The 3rd time was the charm.

I opted for ultafine bezels and the open bridge allowed the stones to sit lower on the finger. The stones sparkle like crazy in their forever-home. The ring is very comfortable, the stones are protected and the craftmanship is beautiful.

Beautiful! I have admired your ring many times. I am attracted to bezels, for the ease and the architectural lines. Yours are executed perfectly.

 

[Dreamer_D]

@Dreamer_D

This is going to be an amazing 5 stone ring! Are you planning on doing 2 tone or just gold? Whatever you choose, it’s going to look amazing!

I definitely want platinum or white metal prongs, as I prefer the way diamonds in this color range look with white metal and how the prongs disappear against diamonds. And I prefer a yellow gold shank because I want to wear this ring with a gold wb sometimes. But if the aesthetic will not fit with two tone I will make that sacrifice…. Though my preference is two tone even if it isn’t period appropriate!

 

[Dreamer_D]

You know I'm no help on girdle but I am so excited for you for this ring!

Did you see this one, thinking about a taller/more exposed setting? 2.75ctw, size 6.25. I think the height is a bit excessive but the ctw is similar to yours and it's sort of 6-prong-ish shared prong so I thought it was worth posting.

2.75 Carat Diamond Antique Five-Stone Ring

A coruscating quintet of European-cut diamonds, totaling 2.75 carats, create a continuous flash across your finger in this otherwise rather simple, classic Victorian ring, hand fabricated in rich 18K yellow gold, with a repousse style upper ring shank. Circa early-twentieth century. Understated...

www.langantiques.com

Yes! I have this one in my inspiration folder. I love many details on it, though as you said it’s far to high.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I like the Jack Weir one as well, but I'd probably use claw prongs. I am a fan of faux bezels so that sways me. I might want to see it without the milgrain first and then decide if I wanted it.

If you don't want to go that route, then I'd do something like this one, lower of course.

I have a similar ring, but my stones are graduated. It's very simple with a plain gallery and I put 8 prongs on the center stone. But the other stones have 6.

I have also admired your (many) five stone rings! The proportions on this one are lovely too. I have been toying with collet settings but I also want a more open gallery

 

[luckygreen317]

Beautiful! I have admired your ring many times. I am attracted to bezels, for the ease and the architectural lines. Yours are executed perfectly.

Thank you for your kind words!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I personally wouldn’t bezel antique stones unless you really like the look. Bezeling antiques will accentuate size and shape differences unless you adjust the bezels. Bezeling makes diamonds more contrasty and could make them look steelier.

I know and feel these things are true which is why I think I keep resisting bezelling these stones in particular, which are gorgeous but also very wonky and leaky. My instinct is they will fair best in a prong setting…. Even though I sort of hate prongs and they catch and scratch me, aesthetically I still think this is the way it has to be.

My opinion is that you should pick your favorite setting to make and not worry too much about the girdles. It’s a special ring, do what you will love!

I suppose when I envision the ring that I want and the look I want I see this. Just giant naked diamonds (though mine at no where near this huge lol)



And when I am trolling for inspiration the rings that make me stop every time and think “oh my!” are the antique styles like lulus and oldcutclubmembers, where mostly you just see round diamonds spanning the finger.

And since I already have a Victorian style six prong, it makes sense to try a different gallery design like the fleur de lis style. I think I will contact a few vendors for quotes this week. The obsessing won’t end until I do.





This will be my third time going through the custom design process. I have to admit I find it very stressful! I suppose it’s easier now than it was the first time. But it’s a little disturbing to observe how predictable I am in this decision- making phase in particular where I bounce from idea to idea. I find the creative process horribly challenging and I basically hate it I won’t examine too hard what it means that I keep coming back for more

I feel the same way about writing which is a huge part of my career. I hate writing! But I love love love having written.

I hate the custom jewelry design process, but I sure love love love owning jewelry I had a hand in designing.

 

[lulu_ma]

Dreamer-which finger and hand (dominant or non-dominant) do you planning on wearing this ring on?

 

[Tartansparkles]

I caught your comment above about giant naked diamonds - mine aren't giant but my thinking was along similar lines because all I want to see was a line of sparkle. This is a 6 stone with platinum bezels and yellow gold band.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

@lulu_ma 5 stone has a gorgeous setting with a beautiful fleur de lis … could you post a picture- if not for my own drooling purposes

 

[lulu_ma]

@lulu_ma 5 stone has a gorgeous setting with a beautiful fleur de lis … could you post a picture- if not for my own drooling purposes

Love these baskets so much. Hope you get similar ones Dreamer!

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

Ahhhh….. thank you Lulu! She’s SO pretty

 

[newtojewels]

Love these baskets so much. Hope you get similar ones Dreamer!

Stunning!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Dreamer-which finger and hand (dominant or non-dominant) do you planning on wearing this ring on?

I’d like to size it so I can wear it on either. But I would only wear it as a RHR when I was dressed up for work or an evening out. I sit. Wear my rings around the house and baby them. My three stone on my left hand is in very good condition still 5 years later.

I suppose even bezelled a ring with diamonds this size will never be all comfort and casual!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I caught your comment above about giant naked diamonds - mine aren't giant but my thinking was along similar lines because all I want to see was a line of sparkle. This is a 6 stone with platinum bezels and yellow gold band.

I have also been admiring your ring in my research! Love the style of the bezel very much.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Love these baskets so much. Hope you get similar ones Dreamer!

Ah the glory of these Edwardian antiques. The things dreams are made of!

 

[lulu_ma]

I’d like to size it so I can wear it on either. But I would only wear it as a RHR when I was dressed up for work or an evening out. I sit. Wear my rings around the house and baby them. My three stone on my left hand is in very good condition still 5 years later.

I suppose even bezelled a ring with diamonds this size will never be all comfort and casual!

So ring finger or middle finger only-not pointer? I feel like the pointer finger rings can get banged up more easily-at least that is my personal observation-or maybe I'm just a klutz

If you're planning on ring or middle finger wear, I say go for prongs with beautiful baskets! Perhaps prongs like these bc you get a bit more girdle protection-but I'd like to see a top view, too.