Designing my 20th Anniversary Ring

[Dreamer_D]

Would you wear the two rings together? That would be the only way that they would look matchy. If you wear them separately, only you would know.

I adore the two-tone (yellow band, PLT head/prongs) for old stones, in particular. The CvB and DK versions are glorious to my eye!

I would definitely wear them at the same time! Bling bling! Not on the same finger of course. But either on the same hand or each hand. Depending on how I size the new one.

 

[mayaINaU]

I thought it looked very low! My diamonds are each 3.3 - 3.5mm deep so I’m guessing 3.7 might be about the lowest it could go.

I notice five stones come in two kinds of styles. The type you have where the stones wrap around the finger and hug the circumference all around, or a kind where the diamonds are kind of raised a little. Gary posted this funny little diagram once. Your ring is the style on the left. He suggested the style on the right for larger diamonds because it keeps them out from between the fingers. I have a feeling I need to go in that direction.

Yes, that might be the best way to go. Mine is a graduated 1.4 ctw on a size 6.75 finger. I asked Sholdt what would be the highest carat weight I could without it going in between my fingers. It would be uncomfortable to have anything in between my fingers at that size, especially with the claw prongs.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Yes, that might be the best way to go. Mine is a graduated 1.4 ctw on a size 6.75 finger. I asked Sholdt what would be the highest carat weight I could without it going in between my fingers. It would be uncomfortable to have anything in between my fingers at that size, especially with the claw prongs.

So for your finger size, 1.4ctw was the highest carat weight this style could do without getting between the fingers?

If my math is correct that's about 20.8mm horizontal spread plus the added space between the diamonds. I bet the spread of your ring is closer to 25mm accounting for all that. My diamonds are about 25mm spread and my finger is larger, but I'm not sure 29mm would fit across my ring finger without some irritation to adjacent fingers. I agree that I don't want prongs or anything poking between the fingers.

So this helps with a couple decisions! I will NOT add the small 4mm stones to the suite (because that would definitely mean having diamonds between the finger) and I will need to find a setting style that raises the side diamonds a little more so all the diamonds sit across the top of the finger.

Progress!

 

[mayaINaU]

So for your finger size, 1.4ctw was the highest carat weight this style could do without getting between the fingers?

If my math is correct that's about 20.8mm horizontal spread plus the added space between the diamonds. I bet the spread of your ring is closer to 25mm accounting for all that. My diamonds are about 25mm spread and my finger is larger, but I'm not sure 29mm would fit across my ring finger without some irritation to adjacent fingers. I agree that I don't want prongs or anything poking between the fingers.

So this helps with a couple decisions! I will NOT add the small 4mm stones to the suite (because that would definitely mean having diamonds between the finger) and I will need to find a setting style that raises the side diamonds a little more so all the diamonds sit across the top of the finger.

Progress!

So for your finger size, 1.4ctw was the highest carat weight this style could do without getting between the fingers?

If my math is correct that's about 20.8mm horizontal spread plus the added space between the diamonds. I bet the spread of your ring is closer to 25mm accounting for all that. My diamonds are about 25mm spread and my finger is larger, but I'm not sure 29mm would fit across my ring finger without some irritation to adjacent fingers. I agree that I don't want prongs or anything poking between the fingers.

So this helps with a couple decisions! I will NOT add the small 4mm stones to the suite (because that would definitely mean having diamonds between the finger) and I will need to find a setting style that raises the side diamonds a little more so all the diamonds sit across the top of the finger.

Progress!

To be precise, I knew I wanted it to be graduated, with only .1 ct difference between each stone. I asked if I could do .3, .4, .5, .4, .3 without it going between my fingers (this was primarily motivated by wanting to be able to get all ACAs, which I could not purchase separately at under. 3 ct.) or if I would have to do .2, .3, .4, .3, .2. Sholdt said I would have to do the latter if I didn't want any between the fingers. If you want to make extra sure, get a 3D printed model of your CAD to try first. Good luck!

 

[Dreamer_D]

This white paper is 25mm, which is the spread of my diamonds if they are set so their girdles are basically right next to each other. I think this is the max spread I would want across my finger. I think a curved style could work as long as there was no added space between the diamonds.







And yes! Wax mould is a must.

 

[mayaINaU]

This white paper is 25mm, which is the spread of my diamonds if they are set so their girdles are basically right next to each other. I think this is the max spread I would want across my finger. I think a curved style could work as long as there was no added space between the diamonds.







And yes! Wax mould is a must.

Looks good re: the spread!

 

[lulu_ma]

How does everyone feel about the fact that my three stone is already the Victorian style prongs, and adding a second ring in that style for the five stone would be a very matchy look? Could be cute, could be annoying…

What about fleur de lis baskets?

 

[asterismdispersion]

Thank you for your generosity in arranging and photographing your curated selection of old cut diamonds! You have a stunning set of stones. I appreciate seeing the charming details of the faceting and I am looking forward to your ring. The diamond names are so evocative.

Out of the potential designs you shared, the CVB and DK are the options that draw my eye and fire my imagination the most. Somehow I envision the handcut imperfect shapes of the diamonds would be better suited by prongs than bezels. I have Old European Cut diamonds set in semi-/faux bezels and the play of light is a bit diminished by the metal surround. I think a mounting like the sketch you've shared that elevates the stones a tad is worth considering also.

Self-indulgent side note: I especially admire your research and tenacity having attempted to cobble together an old cut suite myself. I purchased an old cut diamond a bit over 3 years ago, intending to make a 3-stone ring, and then I could see I wanted bigger side stones. Eventually I found a nicely suited pair estimated at H-I color that, to me, looked closer to an I-J and a J-K. GIA reports came back as an I and an L: while I detect more tint in the L stone it doesn't detract from the trio as a set. I also decided I should spring for a 5-stone instead. So I tried out another old cut that was estimated by the seller to be H-I...but it was clearly lower in color, and had an olive green complexion, so I swiftly returned it. I am taking a break from browsing Old European Cut Diamonds to preserve my sanity so I am also living vicariously through your journey.

 

[Dreamer_D]

What about fleur de lis baskets?

Yesssss. Obviously we agree that is a lovely style . If I have landed on prongs — which I think is a necessary evil lol — then I would prefer a different style than my three stone. I have a few examples saved but I’m going to look for more.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Beautiful stones. IMHO you would be happy adding the two extras. Not only do the cuts prevent all the stones from looking identical, but there is also the fact that they will face up at different angles, They will look different enough that color differences will blend in.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I have been asked to correct — for the record! — that the second ugly step sister is Slightly Sad SALLY, not “Susan” as I accidentally wrote on this photo previously and which happens to be the name of a family member who is very much alive and who would very much not appreciate the allusion!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Thank you for your generosity in arranging and photographing your curated selection of old cut diamonds! You have a stunning set of stones. I appreciate seeing the charming details of the faceting and I am looking forward to your ring. The diamond names are so evocative.

I love macro photography of gems so much! I’m glad you enjoy them too! The names make me laugh but it’s practical too… I don’t know how else I would identify them lol

Out of the potential designs you shared, the CVB and DK are the options that draw my eye and fire my imagination the most. Somehow I envision the handcut imperfect shapes of the diamonds would be better suited by prongs than bezels. I have Old European Cut diamonds set in semi-/faux bezels and the play of light is a bit diminished by the metal surround. I think a mounting like the sketch you've shared that elevates the stones a tad is worth considering also.

All good points and I am coming around to this reasoning. My larger early ideal cut, George, was in a faux bezel and I noticed a big change in light play when I set her in prongs. But that stone looked amazing bezelled too. However, George is an early ideal and as such has much “better” cut than these diamonds that are probably 40 to 50 years older than George. And I think you are right about both the ease/beauty of setting such irregular stones in prongs and the utility of a more open settings for light play. I reluctantly agree with all those points!

Self-indulgent side note: I especially admire your research and tenacity having attempted to cobble together an old cut suite myself. I purchased an old cut diamond a bit over 3 years ago, intending to make a 3-stone ring, and then I could see I wanted bigger side stones. Eventually I found a nicely suited pair estimated at H-I color that, to me, looked closer to an I-J and a J-K. GIA reports came back as an I and an L: while I detect more tint in the L stone it doesn't detract from the trio as a set. I also decided I should spring for a 5-stone instead. So I tried out another old cut that was estimated by the seller to be H-I...but it was clearly lower in color, and had an olive green complexion, so I swiftly returned it. I am taking a break from browsing Old European Cut Diamonds to preserve my sanity so I am also living vicariously through your journey.

Oh man your story feels so familiar! I think I mentioned somewhere else how futile my own earlier attempts to put together suites of old cuts had been. I never found more than two, for all the reasons you describe. I gave up. I was hunting back through threads and found all kinds of old posts of mine where I told people never to even try! It is impossible!

Back in 2019 I also tried again to find a pair of side stones for George and gave up. The cut was just too rare. I ended up using modern rounds, which with the naked eye is perfectly fine. But it’s not my preference. I may reset George again one day because of it. I won’t even bother trying to find true old cut sides in George’s make. I’ve literally never come across any.

I did NOT set out this time to collect a suite either. I wanted a three stone and then I found mine, and I was like, why not see what comes up?? Then just luck. And GIA reports. I would not have tried if I had to rely on the vendors Color estimates lol. As you know, they are never remotely accurate.

Now I’m off to find photos of your diamonds!

 

[Slickk]

My fifth diamond arrived and it is so pretty. I call her Lovely Linda. She is .54cttw L SI1.



With Little Miss K.



And the whole gang. The cavity on Weird Rita’s girdle is very apparent in these pictures. Please overlook it to spare her modesty.

The suite is 2.72cttw of KL color early OECs (Miss K is technically a circular brilliant per GIA).

Wow, @Dreamer_D !! Not sure how I missed your epic project! I’m super impressed at your patience, skills and discerning eye! Cannot wait to see these set!! Kudos!!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Edit: I have a beautiful old transitional/early American diamond that I changed from prongs to a bezel (because it was a four-prong, and I'd accidentally hit it a couple times) for more protection. I definitely noticed a reduction of the "fire in the belly" look to it. I've been grappling for years as to whether to put it back into prongs again.

I missed this edit last time @SparklieBug ! This is a hard thing to grapple with for old cuts. I have been contemplating putting my early ideal back in a more enclosed mounting but it’s such a hard choice!

 

[pancake]

I came across this today. I don't know what is with the prong thingies, but love the proportions and the flow of the bezel around the whole family!

 

[Eli22]

I LOVE your suite of old cuts and the names you gave them! I’m partial to bezels, esp the bezel style that @pancake posted above…but I get not wanting to hide any feature of your lovely diamonds! I can’t wait to see the final ring And happy 20th!

 

[Dreamer_D]

@lulu_ma suggested a fluer de lis style basket and so I went hunting for some examples. There are many interesting versions out there, but they share some common elements: a shared prong between the diamonds, diamond girdles snugged up next to each other, a central prong rising straight up the middle of each basket, and a swoopy or wing element between the prongs. Sometimes they are all platinum. Sometimes the basket is platinum and the shank is yellow gold, which I favour.

One type I found has swirls between the prongs.

Single central prong.


Single central prong. This one looks like a certain body part (or maybe I’ve been watching too much Bridgerton). I’m not mad about it though.


It’s not so obvious in this image but the central prong is tab style on this ring and the shared prong is more like a bezel. I like that practically but I’m not sure about it aesthetically.

 

[Dreamer_D]

More often I’ve seen the connection between the prongs is more like a wing.

Sometimes the curve swoops down. This one has double prongs.



This one has two prongs between the shared prong and down swooping connectors. It also has a subtle octagonal shape to the basket (you can see it best in picture 2) which is quite like bc my three stone also has an octagonal basket.




DK has a version of this style which looks very nice. I actually like this one a lot.




Sometimes the wings swoop up.

Double claw.


Single claw.


DK also haas a version of this ring though I think something needs to be tweaked in the proportions to really mimic the antiques.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I’ve also seen versions with hearts between the prongs. This feels like something that can only be done with hand forging as it’s so delicate.





Some other styles that I think fall in this family.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I think this style is my favourite. DKs version looks very good though I wish he had better pictures posted.




I would probably change the prongs a little as I prefer this more subtle style over the type pictured. I also really like this ring.

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Obviously, mine is a modern pared down interpretation, but I find I like the swooping to go in an upward direction if that makes sense. If the stones were bigger I would have a double swoop.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Obviously, mine is a modern pared down interpretation, but I find I like the swooping to go in an upward direction if that makes sense. If the stones were bigger I would have a double swoop.

Pretty! My three stone basically swoops up which is why I think swooping down might be a more interesting choice for me in this one. But I am changing my mind every 10 minutes lol

I’ve also saved these designs which are interesting.




This classic Victorian with 8 prongs but maybe with the complete basket in plat and just the band yg.

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

I totally get it, and the indecision- until I get a bug up about something and then it's dogged.

I'm stuck on the double swoop lately, so I would double swoop the last two of the examples in a heartbeat.
What the hell, either up or down, double it.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I totally get it, and the indecision- until I get a bug up about something and then it's dogged.

I'm stuck on the double swoop lately, so I would double swoop the last two of the examples in a heartbeat.
What the hell, either up or down, double it.

By double swoop you mean 8 prongs right!? That leads to two swoops on the face of each basket.

(I feel like I’m always asking you for like translations lol Blame it on me being Canadian)

I do love the double swoop for sure I just wonder if it will fit in my 5mm diamonds? I’m gonna do a search for 8 prongs on small diamonds.

 

[Dreamer_D]

And now I’m seeing when I search that you have 8 prongs on 4mm stones lol It looks gorgeous. I think maybe this design requires the stones to sit a little higher than some others.

Sorry for the blurry quick pic but I don't think it's too much, my stone is a little over 9x7 with 4mm sides and I have eight prongs on both. It's not the same design, but similar. Forgive all the dirt/dust, I've been out all day and had to dry her with rest stop toilet paper.
2mm with the milgrain detail sounds beautiful to me. I think mine is closer to 2.2 mm-ish taper that widens to 2.6-8mm or so in the back(I'm guestimating because I can't remember exactly).

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

By double swoop you mean 8 prongs right!? That leads to two swoops on the face of each basket.

(I feel like I’m always asking you for like translations lol Blame it on me being Canadian)

I do love the double swoop for sure I just wonder if it will fit in my 5mm diamonds? I’m gonna do a search for 8 prongs on small diamonds.

Or, blame me for speaking gobbledygook. I apologize, it's just my way. I'm a bit mad, you know.
The stones are set a little higher on my three stone, though it still translates to a pretty low profile. It has to or I'd likely slam it into table edges and the like. Very clumsy, this one.
The stones are set quite low on the nine stone band(which is probably why I never take it off) I forget about it. It wears like a solid band.

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @Dreamer_D!

So here are my thoughts on all of that....

I had a 7 stone ring - it was gorgeous. I remade it 3 times to get the proportions/taper right. The proportions thing was a nightmare. I think you should do 7 stones, but my very strong gut feeling is that, to make that look its best, you need to switch out the 2 stones you've said you like the least, for something in the 4.5mm range. What I found was that to give a 7 stone ring its best taper, the three middle stones need to be virtually the same in diameter. But the 2 on either end need to taper more gently. If you do 5 of the same size, then 2 noticeably smaller, it's going to look disconnected and like you ran out of matching stones. My opinion only, of course, but I'm not sure how 5 size matched then 2 much smaller can look anything other than disconnected.

So I'd suggest you look for a pair of connecting stones to go between the center 3 and the last 2 and give it a more cohesive, organic look. By the way - this would be a dream ring. Like - a MAJORLY dream ring.

Alternately, you could also go with just 5, bypass the tapered thing altogether, and that would be pretty spectacular anyway.

And can I just take this moment to say that your three stone has always been one of my all time favorites on PS? Amazingly stunning ring.

And lastly, my Beloved has fleur-de-lis prongs and I adore them. SO pretty. Here's a profile shot.

Waiting for this one with lots of anticipation - BUT - take your time and get it where you want it to be; this is a once in a lifetime project.

Good luck!

 

[molecule]

A couple other inspiration images that I had saved. It's a tough decision. I try and describe what I find appealing about my inspiration images - image 1) architecture, detailed, eye drawing. Image 2) floral, fluid
And then decide from there which style I want for the project.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Hi @Dreamer_D!

So here are my thoughts on all of that....

I had a 7 stone ring - it was gorgeous. I remade it 3 times to get the proportions/taper right. The proportions thing was a nightmare. I think you should do 7 stones, but my very strong gut feeling is that, to make that look its best, you need to switch out the 2 stones you've said you like the least, for something in the 4.5mm range. What I found was that to give a 7 stone ring its best taper, the three middle stones need to be virtually the same in diameter. But the 2 on either end need to taper more gently. If you do 5 of the same size, then 2 noticeably smaller, it's going to look disconnected and like you ran out of matching stones. My opinion only, of course, but I'm not sure how 5 size matched then 2 much smaller can look anything other than disconnected.

So I'd suggest you look for a pair of connecting stones to go between the center 3 and the last 2 and give it a more cohesive, organic look. By the way - this would be a dream ring. Like - a MAJORLY dream ring. Alternately, you could also go with just 5, bypass the tapered thing altogether, and that would be pretty spectacular anyway.

I agree completely with your analysis here Mrs b, and for this reason I decided to stick with the 5 stone for this project. I like the suite of stones I have, yes even the ugly step sisters who look lovely and cushiony round to the naked eye, and I think for this project I want the stones to sit on top of my finger rather than wrapping around. More of a ring than a band look. I will make a tapered band some day with different proportions.

And can I just take this moment to say that your three stone has always been one of my all time favorites on PS? Amazingly stunning ring.

Thank you so much! I love it too. The only problem I have is that the side view is so pretty I have never been able to bring myself to wear a wedding band with her! I want to see the octagonal donuts and the delicate milgrain. But I want to wear a wedding band too! It’s a real pickle. And this setting puts the bar so high for any other ring I would add.

And lastly, my Beloved has fleur-de-lis prongs and I adore them. SO pretty. Here's a profile shot.

Waiting for this one with lots of anticipation - BUT - take your time and get it where you want it to be; this is a once in a lifetime project.

Good luck!

Stunning! I love the twist using the fleur swoop with four prongs on the side stones, such a lovely touch.

 

[Dreamer_D]

A couple other inspiration images that I had saved. It's a tough decision. I try and describe what I find appealing about my inspiration images - image 1) architecture, detailed, eye drawing. Image 2) floral, fluid
And then decide from there which style I want for the project.

Do you have any more images of that first ring or a link by chance? I love it and the engraving and the way the shank meets the baskets is really perfection. Image search isn’t helping me though!

I also appreciate the way you approach choosing by describing the designs.