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Emerald opinions for bezel set ring

emmy12

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
624
Finally found a potential stone for my bezel set emerald ring. My budget is under 2000 for the stone and setting.
I know that emeralds are a lot about colour, and this blue-green medium tone tends to be one that I am drawn to rather than the deep deep emerald greens.

Upper left emerald cut 1.11ct, insignificant to minor oil. Price is 1400 USD/ct for any of the stones in this video. Colombian origin.

More looking for confirmation that this is a nice looking stone than for alternatives. This is my grad present for finishing my masters thesis! (Yes, @mrs-b it's finally time!)


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Is that Jr Colombian? Are they going to bezel?

I have issues with bezel set gems, especially emeralds.

Otherwise the stone is pretty and a fair price.
 
Is that Jr Colombian? Are they going to bezel?

I have issues with bezel set gems, especially emeralds.

Otherwise the stone is pretty and a fair price.

Not JR Colombian. I don't wanna post who it is in case it gets poached :mrgreen: but they're easy to find on IG

Glad it's a fair price and pretty.

Yes, I was going to have them bezel set it in yellow gold for me before shipping. What issues do you have with bezel set?
 
Not JR Colombian. I don't wanna post who it is in case it gets poached :mrgreen: but they're easy to find on IG

Glad it's a fair price and pretty.

Yes, I was going to have them bezel set it in yellow gold for me before shipping. What issues do you have with bezel set?

Emeralds are full of fractures, and most jewelers don’t know how to do a fine smooth bezel. It is also an invasive way of setting the stone, so it could cause chipping or additional fractures. That being said, if it must be a bezel, I would only get the best of the best jeweler workmanship bench to do it. I would review their bezel work before starting.

Take this from someone that has learned this the hard way more than once. I’ve also cringed at most bezels I’ve seen.
 
All good points. I'm crying inside for you on the stone that got damaged with your setting.

All the jewelry they post from the bench they use in Colombia looks stunning and well-made. I will post the name once I've secured the stone. :).
 
All good points. I'm crying inside for you on the stone that got damaged with your setting.

Plural - stones

Thanks!

Oh yes, congratulations on your graduation!
 
Congratulations! If you had a Go-Fund-Me, I'd be in! I still "owe" you for your design work (on the forum) for our earrings. Your budget's only, what, five textbooks? :lol-2:

I am drawn to the 1.71 on the middle left. I like the proportions. I can not tell if the keel-line not-really-a-culet is off-center or if that is just the way the light hits it. The video is too small for me to see.

All have issues -- quite included and non-ideal color but they would be individually beautiful in a ring unless viewed right next to an ideal. I really like the insignificant to minor oil, if it's a decent lab.

I love the lighter-toned emeralds, which these are. (Many of the really gorgeous old Deco emerald pieces I have seen lean more to the medium tone and a fresher-looking green than the now-ideal "duck's-neck.") These nine are also a tad less saturated than some other medium-toned emeralds I have seen and I don't think it is the photo.

If this is who I think it is, having them bezel-set in yellow gold should be fine and no risk to you -- that's the way to go. And I like the protection afforded by a bezel if you are not prone to swapping mountings left and right. And I am sure you know that even with a bezel this will not be an all-day-every-day ring -- although it need not be a special-occasions-only ring, either.

I agree with @T L that bezels are hard to execute successfully and I am super-picky; the simpler the ring, the trickier the bezel, especially on a step cut where wiggly lines would jump out. Ask for photos before they send it -- labor is cheap and the materials will not be super-expensive if you were not happy.

But mostly: congratulations and enjoy!
 
Based on just one photo alone, I like the 1.11ct in the top left hand corner, followed by the one below, however, I am not an expert.

DK :))
 
First of all- congratulations!

This color is very bright and would look lovely in a bezel. I echo TL & LilAlex’s sentiments about the bezel. I had to send my ring back when I got a somewhat blobby rendition that had pock marks. Unfortunately, I couldn’t tell from the one video the jeweler sent me, so make sure to ask for close-up videos + photos before approving for shipping. Can’t wait to see the finished product!
 
Congratulations! If you had a Go-Fund-Me, I'd be in! I still "owe" you for your design work (on the forum) for our earrings. Your budget's only, what, five textbooks? :lol-2:

I am drawn to the 1.71 on the middle left. I like the proportions. I can not tell if the keel-line not-really-a-culet is off-center or if that is just the way the light hits it. The video is too small for me to see.

All have issues -- quite included and non-ideal color but they would be individually beautiful in a ring unless viewed right next to an ideal. I really like the insignificant to minor oil, if it's a decent lab.

I love the lighter-toned emeralds, which these are. (Many of the really gorgeous old Deco emerald pieces I have seen lean more to the medium tone and a fresher-looking green than the now-ideal "duck's-neck.") These nine are also a tad less saturated than some other medium-toned emeralds I have seen and I don't think it is the photo.

If this is who I think it is, having them bezel-set in yellow gold should be fine and no risk to you -- that's the way to go. And I like the protection afforded by a bezel if you are not prone to swapping mountings left and right. And I am sure you know that even with a bezel this will not be an all-day-every-day ring -- although it need not be a special-occasions-only ring, either.

I agree with @T L that bezels are hard to execute successfully and I am super-picky; the simpler the ring, the trickier the bezel, especially on a step cut where wiggly lines would jump out. Ask for photos before they send it -- labor is cheap and the materials will not be super-expensive if you were not happy.

But mostly: congratulations and enjoy!

Thanks for bringing up the keel. It would be nice to see photos of the stone sideways. You don’t want to get a gem with too much bottom weight or crooked. I would also get detailed measurements. Length, width and depth. However, if the stone is truly insignificant oil, that is a good price. I know that is not top color, but emeralds do not have to be trade ideal color to be beautiful. It also keeps the gem more affordable. Trade ideal color in a 1.1 carat stone with insignificant treatment would be many thousands more. If it is insignificant oil, I would not expect that many surface fractures, but I would want close up shots to make sure there are none on the table or any that compromise the durability of the stone. The clarity looks good at an arms length.

As a side note, although I like the stone you picked, that trillion is so well cut, it really caught my eye. I normally don’t like trillions, except as side stones, but you NEVER see emeralds cut in that shape, and that one is very lovely.
 
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The trillion is my top pick (best balance of colour and superb cutting).
 
I just wanted to add that you may wish to view the stone in person before setting it, especially if it’s no return once you set it. Emeralds look so different on camera than they do irl. Or ask the seller to put it in a ring holder and on the finger first. I did this and if completely changed my opinion of the stone. Will dig up the thread to link in a minute.

 
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Thanks all for the congrats and opinions :) It was a very long and challenging program, and looking at emeralds was one of my pick-me-ups when I needed a break from the work. Only fitting that I get one to celebrate being done (and its my birth stone too!)

@LilAlex i like your comment about the emerald not being an "all-day-every-day" ring but having the bezel will let me take it out on more than just special occasions. Definitely important to know that for emeralds. My mom's family ring had an emerald in it that is now cracked in half because she wore it through everything (including washing dishes) so I learned from her mistakes that emeralds need to be babied!

RE: trillion and 1.71
- The trillion also really caught my eye too @chrono and @TL but the weight puts it outside my (current) budget but I'll get him to send another video and maybe I'll change my mind/budget a bit hehe
- I thought it looked like most of the other stones might have large windows under the table.
- I'm going to see if I can get a video or more pictures of the 1.11 on its own, a side view, and on the hand. They're supposed to come back from grading by the end of the week.

Re: colour
- I also tend to like the medium toned stones, and putting them in the bezel will enhance the colour some. I've seen some of the darker top colour emeralds bezeled and I find that the videos make them look really dark :(
- @Mreader I definitely won't be able to see it in person, so just have to go on gut feeling. They're in Colombia and I'm in Canada!

For everyone who was mentioning bezel work being an important factor to consider (@Eli22, @TL, @LilAlex) I looked through the irinstagram feed for some other examples of their jeweler's bezel work and they all look very crisp and well-made to my untrained eyes. About a year ago he was posting some pre-made bezel set 18k YG rings with small stones (0.5-1.5 ct range) that were around $1600-2000 usd but he hasn't posted any recently. I pulled some screen shots from those videos. Hopefully some of you recognize the vendor now.

I intend for the bezel set ring to be the forever home for this guy, so no worries about needing to have prongs to make switching settings possible.


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I am not a fan of a tube bezel (covers the sides completely). I prefer bezels with an opening at the side. Makes it easier to keep clean and also lets some light in. There is no further risk of damage compared to a tube bezel either.
 
I've seen some of the darker top colour emeralds bezeled and I find that the videos make them look really dark

They never look great in video or photo. It’s probably a good thing you don’t see the darker ones in person.
 
They never look great in video or photo. It’s probably a good thing you don’t see the darker ones in person.

Why's that? Because I'd never settle for anything less? :tongue:
 
Why's that? Because I'd never settle for anything less? :tongue:

They are hard to resist.

I love the gem color you’re picking out though. I just think no matter the color, emeralds tend to always look better in person.
 
Got some videos. Emerald experts chime in please! The colour is a lot less saturated now that it's on the hand and out of the box. Is there a window in this one?

 
It is somewhat grayish in those videos.
 
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