How to buy a vintage OEC?

[EllieTO]

Hi lovely PS experts! I'm planning a special project this year, and I could use some guidance.

I'm thinking of a 1 to 1.5 ct OEC, possibly in a yellow gold CVB Cora setting. It would be a RHR for myself.

I'm considering true vintage, AVR mined or AVR lab (would also consider CER, but there is not much selection). I think the AVRs would be easy to buy sight unseen, but I'm kind of leaning towards a true vintage stone. I just don't know how to select one. I've scoured a bunch of the usual antique dealers websites, but I don't know how to evaluate cut, or even color. I know I want a very crisp stone with a defined flower pattern. I'm open to lower colors, but not sure what to expect in real life.

Is it possible to select a nice OEC without seeing it in person? I live in San Diego, what would be my best options in So Cal? Jewels by Grace is in LA and there are a few stones I might be interested in, so I think I will start there. Any others you would recommend? And any tips for how to evaluate stones that I'm able to see in person?

On that note, please show me your Coras, or other intricate vintage-inspired settings, especially with smaller centre stones. I plan to wear it on my right hand middle finger, which is a size 6, so I think 1-1.5 ct in this type of setting seems about right for every day wear.
Link to CVB Cora: https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...cvb-cora-victorian-inspired-cluster-halo-ring

Thank you!

 

[maryjane04]

What is your budget for the stone? Collins Family jewellers is in SD and often has old cuts so you could check them out!

 

[EllieTO]

What is your budget for the stone? Collins Family jewellers is in SD and often has old cuts so you could check them out!

OMG! I thought that name sounded familiar. They are just around the corner from my house! Thanks so much for the tip.

I'm targeting $5-6K for the stone, maybe up to $7K.

 

[maryjane04]

OMG! I thought that name sounded familiar. They are just around the corner from my house! Thanks so much for the tip.

I'm targeting $5-6K for the stone, maybe up to $7K.

Oh how lucky haha I would pay CFJ a visit and see some in person. Then you would be able to see what your tolerance are for tint/colour and clarity etc. You can stalk their IG.

In the meantime if we find any that meets your criteria we will happily post them here!

Also have a look at 47 jewelry's website. There's a few that looks like what you're looking for. I just can't view them for some reason.

 

[lavenderdragonfly23]

I would definitely visit Collins and let us k is what you think as far as what color, clarity your eyes gravitate towards. If it’s a Gia stone, make sure you get the number… it’s always helpful to know if you prefer a more spready/deeper stone, a true oec/tranny, or a hybrid omc/oec. I definitely recommend seeing some old cut stones in person before buying. Most vendors have a pretty good return policy to view stones.

I also second 47 Jewlers! Ask for Fred, he’s very knowledgeable with old cuts and can also pull some stones to compare.

 

[lovedogs]

Also old world diamonds!

 

[Dreamer_D]

If you’re planning to have Caysie make your setting, then you could also ask her to source you a stone.

 

[JPie]

I’m a huge fan of genuine antique OECs. They have a sparkle and fire to them that I don’t really see in newly cut diamonds of the same style.

You’ve gotten some great suggestions already, and I would add SinCityFinds and GildedLane as reputable IG sellers to keep an eye on.

If you go the lab route, there are overseas vendors who offer more bang for the buck.

 

[leon555]

For selecting an OEC, I'd say it's definitely possible to choose a great one without seeing it in person, though it can be a bit tricky. Since you're after a crisp stone with a defined flower pattern, I'd recommend focusing on the cut and clarity in photos and asking for detailed pics if possible, especially in good lighting. As for color, lower colors can still be beautiful-just be aware that they might show a bit more warmth in certain lights. Jewels by Grace is a good start for vintage stones, but maybe check out other SoCal dealers like Lang Antiques or a few others in the area.

 

[mustangchi]

Not sure if you want to see colored stone Coras but this one is around 1.6 ct I think, a sapphire. I agree with the suggestion of contacting Old World Diamonds, I also think Grace has a great eye for stones.

 

[EllieTO]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I wasn't familiar with all the vendors you all suggested, so I'll go down the rabbit hole when I get a chance.

I'm still not clear on how to go about selecting and purchasing a stone if the vendor is not local. Do people just ask for a bunch of videos and pictures? Most pictures and videos I see are not great. If I'm working with a local jeweler/dealer, where do they source vintage stones? Same ones from the usual vendors that I can also see online, or is there a trade channel that's not visible to the public? Would I buy a few of the finalists, then keep one and return all the rest (assuming no restocking fee, but may lose out on shipping cost)? I could purchase a few temporarily, then return, but is that really how it's done? Sorry for the silly questions, I just don't really get the logistics.

I'm planning to check out Collins on Wednesday. Jewels by Grace will be harder for me as they're only weekdays, I may need to take a day off work. Any others that are in LA or SD?

 

[TruLuv858]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I wasn't familiar with all the vendors you all suggested, so I'll go down the rabbit hole when I get a chance.

I'm still not clear on how to go about selecting and purchasing a stone if the vendor is not local. Do people just ask for a bunch of videos and pictures? Most pictures and videos I see are not great. If I'm working with a local jeweler/dealer, where do they source vintage stones? Same ones from the usual vendors that I can also see online, or is there a trade channel that's not visible to the public? Would I buy a few of the finalists, then keep one and return all the rest (assuming no restocking fee, but may lose out on shipping cost)? I could purchase a few temporarily, then return, but is that really how it's done? Sorry for the silly questions, I just don't really get the logistics.

I'm planning to check out Collins on Wednesday. Jewels by Grace will be harder for me as they're only weekdays, I may need to take a day off work. Any others that are in LA or SD?

Vetting and procuring Old (well cut) stones is an artform, and there is not a huge online inventory of stones like there are with modern cuts. The hunt is very different... outside of cut, you are looking for character, color tolerance, ensuring there is no fisheye due to depth, etc. Different Vendors have different ways to source. Some of them have their own inventory (e.g.,OWD, Collins), but often they reach out to some of the same procurers- I would not suggest you contact a whole bunch of vendors with the same specs, maybe 2...unless you can find one online and then source for the best price. The tough part is, with such a small inventory, many of these vendors are looking in the same pool, often driving up price and frustration. Your best bet... Go to Collins, figure out your tolerance (maybe you luck out and find your stone there!) and figure out the exact specs you are looking for, then reach out to 1-2 vendors (whoever you connect with, could even be Collins Jewelers), and go from there... If you get videos, pics and certs you can ask us all here about them and we can help you vet! It's a very personal process and you will need to find a stone that speaks to you rather than shop on numbers and Aset.

Looking forward to your journey!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Search this forum for “OEC.” Read lots of threads of other people doing similar searches. That’s the best way to learn how it all works. Have fun!