Is it cheaper or more expensive to buy a stone and have jewelry custom-made?

[cvalier26]

I guess it depends on how elaborate the design is, but I see this tendency on this forum so I was wondering . Or do you do it so you get the best quality stone possible ?

 

[winnietucker]

I’m kinda looking at this now and it would be cheaper if I just got the ring I’m trying to recreate. But also, if it’s not exactly how I want it and I don’t wear it as a result, it ends up costing me more money IMO.

 

[LilAlex]

Always buy antique/vintage/estate jewelry unless you are looking for something very specific. An all-original hundred-year-old piece is likely to cost less than a contemporary loose stone of comparable quality. Many, many threads on this very question. But if you MUST have a Jedi or cobalt spinel or a fine Paraiba or a brilliant-cut this or that, you're gonna need to go stone shopping...

 

[Ionysis]

It depends on the quality of stones and where you get them. Most jewellery stores have poor quality coloured stones which are heavily marked up. But you may want to buy because of the design.

Custom design is more expensive - again depending on your country of residence.

But you can get a very good deal if you choose a ready made setting and put your own stone in it - assuming you bought an excellent quality gem as close to source as possible online.

I love my coloured stones and to me the setting is just a backdrop - the stone is the star and most of the cost / value in my jewellery are in the stones not the setting. So I very rarely buy ready made jewellery.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

How do you actually measure the stone (and the setting) so you know the two are compatible?

 

[Ionysis]

Probably better answered by someone in your neck of the woods. Custom made where I live is very inexpensive so I almost never buy settings ready made. If I have it’s been sheer chance I’ve found one to fit the stone I’ve bought. I’m always driven by the gem first, setting is almost incidental.

Many others will find a setting they love (like something from Ivy and Rose or even Etsy) and then buy a stone that will fit it. If you’re not that fussy about the stone being rare / untreated / perfect etc there are loads of calibrated gems around which fit standard settings.

Edited to add: if you look online the setting will say “suitable for a stone X mm by Y mm”. You would also get the dimensions of the stones when you’re shopping.

 

[dk168]

How do you actually measure the stone (and the setting) so you know the two are compatible?

By using a good pair of calipers and take multiple readings.

For a new setting, the manufacturer should be able to provide some indication of the size and tolerance for the setting. Ivory and Rose and other sellers of settings do that.

I have no experience with preloved ones except to take it to a competent bench to seek their help.

DK

 

[dk168]

I have strong preferences in settings, which is for the centre stone to be bezel set, no millgrain and plain comfort shank 4mm at the top minimum.

Because of this, I go down the custom route as ready made settings do not suit.

It is imperative to remember to get the stone first, then the setting when it comes to CS, as good stones tend not to be cut to calibrated sizes for them to fit in ready made settings, IMHO.

DK

 

[dk168]

It is not uncommon for the settings to cost a lot more than the CSs, and there are some spectacular examples, just search for the collection @Acinom and have a look, especially her sugar-dipped ring by ? VC with either a electric blue Topaz or blue Zircon.

I am looking at having pieces made with Rhodium-plated Silver and Moissy for my cheaper CSs to cut down on cost.

DK

 

[chrono]

How do you actually measure the stone (and the setting) so you know the two are compatible?

There's usually a buffer of 0.5 mm smaller and 0.5 mm larger. It gets tricky if it's a cushion due to the rounder or squarer corners so you have to take the diagonal dimension into consideration. Bezels have almost no room for deviation. I'd say probably +/- 0.25 mm

Another tricky one is depth. Certain stones are cut deeper such as aqua and certain designs are cut deeper such as asscher so keep depth of setting in mind when shopping around.

I've been doing ok when relying on the stone measurement given by the vendor/seller and the setting measurement by the vendor/bench.

 

[dk168]

Not all lapidary artists would entertain the idea of cutting calibrated CSs, as I found out recently.

Hence the advice to get the stone first, then the setting, and not the other way round.

As @chrono mentioned, the depth of a stone needs to be taken into consideration. Zircon is another type of stone that tends to be cut quite deep, based on the ones I have.

DK

 

[Skyjems]

I've been meaning to do a video about this.

#1 ALWAYS GET THE GEM FIRST! Unless you have an older family setting that you want to use, or are changing gems in an antique/vintage piece that you love, get the gem first!

What I usually tell people is that custom is expensive for inexpensive jewelry, but inexpensive for expensive jewelry.

What does this mean?

If you want a pair of amethyst stud earrings or a lower quality emerald pendant, it's better to buy it finished.

However, if you want a fine quality heavier weight piece with accent stones, or something quite unique, custom is usually cheaper.

I find that the over/under is usually about $750-$900 USD/$1000-$1200 CAD + center gem.

 

[YC]

However, if you want a fine quality heavier weight piece with accent stones, or something quite unique, custom is usually cheaper.

Hi @Skyjems,
I am intrigued by your above statement, about ready-made jewellery using higher carat, better quality stones costing more than similar custom-made ones. Is there any explanation why this is so?

 

[fredflintstone]

I use to sale colored gemstones in the retail/wholesale trade for 39 years. I've since retired. It is always cheaper to buy a stone first and then have it set.

The mark up in retail depending on the retailer is 3 to even 10 times! They have a lot of overhead to pay for. The only benifit to buying a premounted ring is that you can see it first at a brick and mortar retailer in person.

 

[chrono]

The mark up in retail depending on the retailer is 3 to even 10 times! They have a lot of overhead to pay for. The only benifit to buying a premounted ring is that you can see it first at a brick and mortar retailer in person.

Or need it as a gift within one week.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

I've been meaning to do a video about this.

#1 ALWAYS GET THE GEM FIRST! Unless you have an older family setting that you want to use, or are changing gems in an antique/vintage piece that you love, get the gem first!

What I usually tell people is that custom is expensive for inexpensive jewelry, but inexpensive for expensive jewelry.

What does this mean?

If you want a pair of amethyst stud earrings or a lower quality emerald pendant, it's better to buy it finished.

However, if you want a fine quality heavier weight piece with accent stones, or something quite unique, custom is usually cheaper.

I find that the over/under is usually about $750-$900 USD/$1000-$1200 CAD + center gem.

I think it might also depend where you live.
Cheap gems in cheap settings adn't all that cheap here

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

There's usually a buffer of 0.5 mm smaller and 0.5 mm larger. It gets tricky if it's a cushion due to the rounder or squarer corners so you have to take the diagonal dimension into consideration. Bezels have almost no room for deviation. I'd say probably +/- 0.25 mm

Another tricky one is depth. Certain stones are cut deeper such as aqua and certain designs are cut deeper such as asscher so keep depth of setting in mind when shopping around.

I've been doing ok when relying on the stone measurement given by the vendor/seller and the setting measurement by the vendor/bench.

It just all sounds quite hard to me
when the time comes im either going to need a lot of help from here or im going to have to potentially over pay and find a jewler in town to do it all for me

 

[caf]

It just all sounds quite hard to me
when the time comes im either going to need a lot of help from here or im going to have to potentially over pay and find a jewler in town to do it all for me

There’s always Stuller settings for calibrated colored stones. Any jeweler can order them. So kind of an “in between” way to get a setting you want without going custom.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

There’s always Stuller settings for calibrated colored stones. Any jeweler can order them. So kind of an “in between” way to get a setting you want without going custom.

I live out in the stix so i hope so

 

[Snowdrop13]

Well, I’ve just embarked on this and it’s very interesting! The spinel I bought would not be available retail, in the same quality, in a piece of jewellery here in the U.K. So buying the stone first was a necessity.

The setting? Not so easy! I’ve had a quote from Ivory and Rose which is inexplicably double what it says on the Etsy item listing (presumably due to alterations because my stone isn’t a standard size, but no details given). I’ve looked at a preloved setting but it might not fit my stone so is too much of a risk. I’ve just decided to save up a bit more and spend a bit extra on getting someone local to make a setting and set the stone. Seems easier and less hassle all round though will cost a fair bit more.

 

[AllAboardTheBlingTrain]

100% agree with the way Skygems put it. If you have access to a jeweler who stocks and stores good quality CS then buying ready made can make sense. But buying a good quality CS from a jeweler can mean that you pay a markup on the stone that is higher than what you would pay to obtain the stone elsewhere. If labour charges are very high where you live, then the “setting fee” to set outside stones may be so high that it makes up the difference of the stone markup so you’re better off buying it from the jeweler; if labour charges are low/reasonable then it may still be cheaper to source your own stone. As long as you go to a trusted and competent jeweler who has had practice with the CS of your choice it should be safe to let them create you your setting.

 

[LD]

One thing to mention (and I haven't read the posts above) is that sometimes it's good to choose your own stone and with ready made rings/pendants, you don't have that luxury. Sometimes you can pick up bargains in both settings and stones and so your "dream" ring could be a reality for the same price or less than a ready made version but it's honestly all about what you're looking for.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

Well, I’ve just embarked on this and it’s very interesting! The spinel I bought would not be available retail, in the same quality, in a piece of jewellery here in the U.K. So buying the stone first was a necessity.

The setting? Not so easy! I’ve had a quote from Ivory and Rose which is inexplicably double what it says on the Etsy item listing (presumably due to alterations because my stone isn’t a standard size, but no details given). I’ve looked at a preloved setting but it might not fit my stone so is too much of a risk. I’ve just decided to save up a bit more and spend a bit extra on getting someone local to make a setting and set the stone. Seems easier and less hassle all round though will cost a fair bit more.

The extra cost may well balance out when tsking shipping stress into account
And nice to give someone local some work

 

[Snowdrop13]

The extra cost may well balance out when tsking shipping stress into account
And nice to give someone local some work

Definitely, and there’s the VAT (20%) plus handling fees usually, so I’m thinking maybe £200 or so more. And also good to have someone handy to fix anything if it’s needed!