melee vs(mm size) for custom setting

[Kaleigh]

Oh it sounds lovely. Can''t wait for the pics!!!

 

[valeria101]

Date: 2/11/2006 9:58:42 PM
Author: mamchris

But now you have me second guessing myself again. God I can''t stand this,

Oups.... sorry. Sure didn''t want to make you feel bad about anything. I wouldn''t ''calibrate'' the setting after the stone that way, thinking maybe not of Ritani, but the other rings so wholeheartedly admired around here - DanielK, Art of Platinum or what not, that also seem to do extremely small and tight micropave. Also, from the Photo you posted it sounds like the jeweler does work with these smallest micropave (because half pointers were planned for the underside of the ring).

In the end though, I don''t think 1.5 pts is ''too large'' or anything. I''d probably be in trouble picking the dust-grain like diamonds off the desk (I know it takes a bit f getting accustomed to

).

Also, I would take the jeweler''s advice on this - it is usually a bad idea to ask for something he is not comfortable doing (like setting half pointers!) because the work will never be as good.



I think next time no custom. I am driving myself and my hubby crazy.

I hope this will go away with a gorgeous ring

Most of the time it does...
Questions like these are for the jewelers to worry over. If it wasn''t for open forums like this - they''d be the only one to worry

The big think now is the overall height of the setting. Hopefully I won''t end up with a setting that stands off my finger like the Eiffel tower.

Tiffany''s seems to be a fairly low setting. The question has been asked before - you may find the relevant threads with a search for ''ring height'' or something. In case not, as much as I can tell and remember from the democratic vote on the mentioned threads: 6mm finger-to-diamond-table is rather low, 7-8 medium, and 9-10mm height or more high. This one looks like it would stand somewhere in the middle - but being a fairly wide (the halo''s surface, not the band) and tapered setting, it would not look like a tower at all, even in relatively high.

Hope at least some helps without being frustrating

Btw. will you get to see some intermediary shape of the setting? Say, a wax, or the semi-finished setting without the stones... or something? One of the perks of custom work is that you get to adjust details half way, so there really is very little room for unpleasant surprises.

 

[valeria101]

Got an idea...

On top of This Page is an example of custom setting very much like what you have in mind holding a 2 cts vivid yellow cushion (doesn''t say there now, but I remember - pretty pathetic...). And the description (100 diamonds, 1.44 cts) implies the accent diamonds are over 1 pt each.

The cushion is not among the largest 2 caraters ever, but this may still make a relevant example nevertheless.

The same stone has ultimately been set in the ring o the left. It is 2.06 cts, 7.82 x 6.87 mm

 

[mamchris]

Ana,
Thanks for your input. My jeweler has had the patience of a saint. We have had 2 waxes, because they believe in doing the wax so we can get a much better idea than just a drawing. I want the height to be about 8-9mm. Hopefully it will be ok, because the wax I saw today while fine in every way was slightly too high. This process was supposed to take 2-3 weeks, I was supposed to have this ring for Christmas, and I won''t even have it by valentines Day, I just hope it will be worth the wait.
But now you have me scared. my ring will be prong set in a fishtail/bead set setting in the halo only, with no milgrain. The shank will be microprong set with milgraining. I am hoping the fishtail setting will be much less metal than the picture you showed me, I was hoping the overall look would be more like Reena''s -L. Mege ring, remember that beauty. Although her halo was micropave, and mine will be a fishtail bead set. I really wanted the halo to compliment the stone, not compete or overpower it.

 

[princessv]

Hi mamchris! I''m just offering my 2c here but I think with a 2ct cushion, I''d want the diamond to stand out which means deemphasizing a halo by getting the smaller melee. Miligraining is very, very delicate almost to the point where I can''t really tell with my naked eye unless I look from a distance of about 5-6 inches. Don''t be scared, I think your project will be lovely!

 

[mamchris]

Ok,
Here is the CAD, that I am going with the Halo to be 1.5mm the sides 3 pointers and everything else 1 pointer. I hope the halo doesn''t over power the pretty stone, that isn''t what I want. But I must admit, I do think about shrinkage, and a larger halo might feel more substantial. The jeweler tried to talk me out of 1 pointers in the halo, and assured me the 1.5mm which is just a tiny bit larger would be more balanced, The stones line up better is what she was saying so that there would be even amounts around the top/bottom and the two sides would have even amounts as well. The overall height will be a little lower than on the CAD.

 

[mamchris]

Ana, if you are out there (because I can''t PM you anymore) is there any way that you can tell me what my halo would look like with 1 pt. or 1.2-1.3mm stones as opposed to the 1.5mm/ 1.5 pt stones that are going to be set in them as drawn above? I love the look of Rena''s and Firegodess'' halo and I think they had 1 pointers, at least firegoddes said she did. I was wondering is there much difference, so I should ask for a change or should I just leave it alone. The jeweler told me with this type of halo setting, I will see much less metal and have more sparkle is that true?

 

[valeria101]

Me and my big mouth! The difference betwene 1.3 and 1.5mm doesn''t show on a picture (tried to put photoshop to work) and I''d bet it is minor anyway. Given the style of setting, it sounds like there will be less width and less metal to be seen.

Does THIS look familiar? 3 cts stone, about 60 diamond dots all .8cts.
IMO, the small diamonds are set like yours will. And sure enough... not much else shows there.

These below are under 1 pt, and it is a different look:

(either sapphire is about 9 x 8 mm).

 

[lmurden]

1 points around the halo is what I would do and have done for my ring too. Good luck.

 

[mamchris]

Thank you all. Ana, I knew I could count on you. I like the ice store picture except for the big gap in the halo. Do you think they are 1.5 pts or 1 pt stones, I just want to make sure before I tell the jeweler to make changes again. I feel like an idiot telling the jeweler again. If I changed to 1 pt.I think that would increase the stones in the halo from 20 now to 24 with 1 pts. if my math is correct. Which would also cut down on the diamond weight. from 30 pts to 24 pts. which is fine.
Is bead set and a fishtail type setting similar?

 

[valeria101]

Date: 2/12/2006 9:14:02 AM
Author: mamchris


Do you think they are 1.5 pts or 1 pt stones [in the Icestore ring].

They give the weight and... I put up some effort to count the diamond dots. The result turned out as mentioned above (60 diamond dots all .8cts => ~1.3pts/diamond which is probably approximate). If your current options is 1.5pts and you like that look, I wouldn't change. Another (more precise) clue may be the number of little rounds in the halo - 24 for a 3 cts diamond. So there should be slightly fewer for 2 cts. Which is the case for your ring. So... that's probably the look you are getting.

Btw. this is getting quite a bit over my head - to answer these properly I'd have to take pen and paper to reverse-engineer the design of that setting to fir your stone. Pretty much what the jeweler did... and I have allot less experience.


I just want to make sure before I tell the jeweler to make changes again. I feel like an idiot telling the jeweler again.

What was his recommendation for the size of accent diamonds? If he has one, I would definitely consider it because there should be more detail involved in the making of the setting than this thread talked about (and I would know to comment on). In particular, I am thinking of the style of setting (next point below).


Is bead set and a fishtail type setting similar?

Not really... And I suspect that this doesn't work quite as well with extremely small diamonds. The setting with half to 1 point stones listed above has them set pave - and there is less 'metal' involved there to sink diamonds in. There is a reason why it takes such a long time to become a good bench jeweler.

I cannot second guess their work this much. I would wish to know better, but for the time being - it isn't the case.

 

[princessv]

I was thinking about your situation last night mamchris and looking at my ring as well. If you don''t mind me asking, what size is your finger? The reason I ask is because my new setting spans my entire finger 10.75mm x 10.71. That''s alot! If you use the 1.5mm melee it might bring the entire ring up to 12mm or more!

But then again, I can see where your jeweler is coming from about overall appearance since you will be having larger stones on the band. Sorry if this doesn''t help and gives you more to think about!

 

[valeria101]

Date: 2/11/2006 11:07:24 PM
Author: mamchris

The jeweler ... assured me the 1.5mm ... stones line up better ... so that there would be even amounts around the top/bottom and the two sides would have even amounts as well.

I would think this is important, and would rather have the diamonds symmetrically distributed.

Btw. You mentioned that Reena''s ring was the inspiration for this one. Was Art of Platinum so much more expensive? Just curious - those guys would have saved all the second guessing, IMO.

Perhaps I would have enjoyed dipping my finger in the design process if my jeweler would have also appreciated the chance to get a new type of design in their showcase with the occasion... It happened before. But it sounds like you did not feel the same about the huge delay and intense involvement in the process

 

[lmurden]

My advice is that the halo should have 1 pointers or .001 carat diamonds. around the center.

The band should have 2 or 3 pointers or .002 or .003 carat diamonds going down the band.

This will keep the ring very delicate and beautiful!!!

 

[mamchris]

I loved being involved in the design project. I was a studion design major in college, since then I have designed additions,(ok not jewelry) and even the custom glass paterns in windows. I love picking out fabrics for my furniture and have it made custom. As we speak I am renovating my kitchen, -just my husband and myself, from the plans I designed. I am even doing the custom cabinets. I will finish them, and he will build them. He is quite the furniture maker. So you can see that I love to design, partly because I am a bit of a control freak. I know what I want, I just want to make sure that my jeweler knows, and of course they are the expert in this area, so I do trust their judgement. They have done extensive custom work, they are local, so it is easy to get to them. They have the CAD, and the wax machines on premises, they also cast on premises as well.
I did contact Leon, and I know I would love his work, but he was about 2.5 hrs from me, and I wasn't sure if I wanted to relinquish all design control to him. His designs tend to be a little bit more delicate than what I would like. Don't get me wrong, I don't want a heavy look, bigger bling.

This jeweler also located the stone I liked.

My finger is a 4.25, - I tried on the wax (on my pinky) and because of the higher setting and the shape of the stone more elongated, ( I looked for a stone like this on purpose) it will fit fine.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate all your input, it really means alot to me.

The band will have 3 pts going 3/4 of the way around, with 1 pointers on each side of the shank, micropave set.

 

[LBug75]

You all always have such good info and ideas. What about melee size for say a halo and micro pave setting for a .50-.63 pear ?

 

[blueroses]

Wow, old thread!! Whatever happened with this ring? Would looove to see it, of course!