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Oval | Solitaire Setting with Hidden Halo Assistance

Jeffs4315

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
Messages
4
Hi All - This is a wonderful forum and I thank everyone in advance for helping me design the perfect oval solitaire setting for my future fiancé. I’ve read a dozen or so threads, but still had some questions. Let’s start with some upfront info:

She is all about the dainty, thin ring aesthic. Her ring size is a 6.75-7.00. The Whisper thin band has been cited as a source of inspiration a few times, and her preference is a simple, yellow gold band, platinum setting, with a hidden halo. The diamond in question is a 2.6 ct oval (10.65 x 7.48 x 4.80).
  • My jeweler has assured me he has a team / facility that can design the above and present a CAD image before assembly. However, I’d like to be an informed consumer and drive the conversation in the right direction from the onset. It’s important to me that I take full ownership of ring’s design (even though my future fiancé’s request appears simple). Questions off the top of my head:
    • How thin can I go on the band? I’ve read the horror stories on here about being rings being too thin and dainty. She is very careful with her jeweler and I would say has a normal activity level? We are a young athletic couple.
    • Thoughts on 14k yellow gold vs. 18k? Other than aesthetics, any reason platinum should be chosen over yellow gold?
    • I’m thinking 4 claw prongs to minimize the intrusion to the aesthetic of the diamond; between the prongs and basket, will that be enough security? Are there ways to utilize the four prong - hidden halo setting to maximize the security of the diamond while having a skinny band?
    • Are there optimal angles or widths of the prongs to rise and support the stone?
    • Do I need to have a view on how many diamonds should form the hidden halo or how “tall” that basket wraparound metal piece should be? I have seen hidden halos, but the internet is ripe with different interpretations on the final product. I.e. lots of small tiny diamonds, bigger diamonds that show the metal being exposed, different heights for the basket etc.
    • Any design / construction pitfalls I should be aware of as I give guidance on the mounts construction?
    • At this stage, do I need to be thinking about how her ring will eventually complement the wedding band itself? If so, what considerations should I think of?
  • Other:
    • I’ve discussed with her the idea of constructing an all platinum ring with a micro pave and hidden halo. Her thoughts are the yellow gold, two tone approach is simple and cheaper than the pave. We also don’t want to be too “loud” with the ring, but I have seen a few ovals on pave bands that seemed tasteful. I was thinking about asking my jeweler to render a pave option just for optionality purposes. Are there any considerations I should be aware of as ask for this rendition as well?
    • Is there anything else I should be thinking of here that is not captured in the above as it relates to the oval solitaire, hidden halo setting?
The jeweler I am dealing with represents a respectable brand btw. I am probably making this way more complicated than it needs to be... I just feel like its important for me to take extreme ownership, and, leave no stone unturned (pun intended).

I sincerely thank the forum for taking the time to read this post. I am the cliche young man fumbling through this journey of constructing the perfect ring for my best friend in life. Before I sit down with my jeweler, I was hoping to be a little bit more informed so I knew the right questions to ask.

Thanks again for your help,
Eric
 
@Jeffs4315 I love this look. I just had a very similar ring made for a 8 ct white zircon. Since mine is more of a casual ring, I did 14 kt yellow gold with a a white gold basket. Pave on the band only. Band is 1.5mm wide.

The one think I will say is make sure that you size the ring on the smaller end. My ring size fluctuates and I made the mistake of making the ring 1/2 size too big. With these super skinny bands, it’s better to get them a tad small imo.

I’m posting a inspo gallery view. A platinum basket with a hidden halo would be gorgeous with the oval you described!54E80FF9-5371-4E52-92BF-E35D440418C2.jpeg
 
Hi All - This is a wonderful forum and I thank everyone in advance for helping me design the perfect oval solitaire setting for my future fiancé. I’ve read a dozen or so threads, but still had some questions. Let’s start with some upfront info:

She is all about the dainty, thin ring aesthic. Her ring size is a 6.75-7.00. The Whisper thin band has been cited as a source of inspiration a few times, and her preference is a simple, yellow gold band, platinum setting, with a hidden halo. The diamond in question is a 2.6 ct oval (10.65 x 7.48 x 4.80).
  • My jeweler has assured me he has a team / facility that can design the above and present a CAD image before assembly. However, I’d like to be an informed consumer and drive the conversation in the right direction from the onset. It’s important to me that I take full ownership of ring’s design (even though my future fiancé’s request appears simple). Questions off the top of my head:
    • How thin can I go on the band? I’ve read the horror stories on here about being rings being too thin and dainty. She is very careful with her jeweler and I would say has a normal activity level? We are a young athletic couple.
    • Thoughts on 14k yellow gold vs. 18k? Other than aesthetics, any reason platinum should be chosen over yellow gold?
    • I’m thinking 4 claw prongs to minimize the intrusion to the aesthetic of the diamond; between the prongs and basket, will that be enough security? Are there ways to utilize the four prong - hidden halo setting to maximize the security of the diamond while having a skinny band?
    • Are there optimal angles or widths of the prongs to rise and support the stone?
    • Do I need to have a view on how many diamonds should form the hidden halo or how “tall” that basket wraparound metal piece should be? I have seen hidden halos, but the internet is ripe with different interpretations on the final product. I.e. lots of small tiny diamonds, bigger diamonds that show the metal being exposed, different heights for the basket etc.
    • Any design / construction pitfalls I should be aware of as I give guidance on the mounts construction?
    • At this stage, do I need to be thinking about how her ring will eventually complement the wedding band itself? If so, what considerations should I think of?
  • Other:
    • I’ve discussed with her the idea of constructing an all platinum ring with a micro pave and hidden halo. Her thoughts are the yellow gold, two tone approach is simple and cheaper than the pave. We also don’t want to be too “loud” with the ring, but I have seen a few ovals on pave bands that seemed tasteful. I was thinking about asking my jeweler to render a pave option just for optionality purposes. Are there any considerations I should be aware of as ask for this rendition as well?
    • Is there anything else I should be thinking of here that is not captured in the above as it relates to the oval solitaire, hidden halo setting?
The jeweler I am dealing with represents a respectable brand btw. I am probably making this way more complicated than it needs to be... I just feel like its important for me to take extreme ownership, and, leave no stone unturned (pun intended).

I sincerely thank the forum for taking the time to read this post. I am the cliche young man fumbling through this journey of constructing the perfect ring for my best friend in life. Before I sit down with my jeweler, I was hoping to be a little bit more informed so I knew the right questions to ask.

Thanks again for your help,
Eric

    • How thin can I go on the band? I’ve read the horror stories on here about being rings being too thin and dainty. She is very careful with her jeweler and I would say has a normal activity level? We are a young athletic couple.
    • 2.6 carat is not small. I would not go any smaller than 2mm.
    • Thoughts on 14k yellow gold vs. 18k? Other than aesthetics, any reason platinum should be chosen over yellow gold?
    • I’m thinking 4 claw prongs to minimize the intrusion to the aesthetic of the diamond; between the prongs and basket, will that be enough security? Are there ways to utilize the four prong - hidden halo setting to maximize the security of the diamond while having a skinny band?
    • Would suggest double claw prongs to be safe.
    • Are there optimal angles or widths of the prongs to rise and support the stone?
    • Your respectable jeweler should be able to handle all that. I wouldn't trust myself to give that kind of advice.
    • Do I need to have a view on how many diamonds should form the hidden halo or how “tall” that basket wraparound metal piece should be? I have seen hidden halos, but the internet is ripe with different interpretations on the final product. I.e. lots of small tiny diamonds, bigger diamonds that show the metal being exposed, different heights for the basket etc.
    • No, an experienced jeweler would know the correct amount of stones that would work best for your design preference.
    • Any design / construction pitfalls I should be aware of as I give guidance on the mounts construction?
    • @yssie recently said it best. Find a jeweler you trust, and then trust them with this aspect. Though, that does mean doing all your homework about said jeweler.
    • At this stage, do I need to be thinking about how her ring will eventually complement the wedding band itself? If so, what considerations should I think of? Yes, does she want the wedding band to sit flush with the e-ring or does she want a gap against a basket or donut?
  • Other:
    • I’ve discussed with her the idea of constructing an all platinum ring with a micro pave and hidden halo. Her thoughts are the yellow gold, two tone approach is simple and cheaper than the pave. We also don’t want to be too “loud” with the ring, but I have seen a few ovals on pave bands that seemed tasteful. I was thinking about asking my jeweler to render a pave option just for optionality purposes. Are there any considerations I should be aware of as ask for this rendition as well? It's a big stone. Don't try to save money at the expense of security or safety.
    • Is there anything else I should be thinking of here that is not captured in the above as it relates to the oval solitaire, hidden halo setting?
 
Don't go too thin, the big diamond can make a thin band spin if it is top heavy; or worse snap off nor the band to bend.
Make sure the pave is secure, you don't want the stones to fall out.
Exercise, dishes, chores etc are all hard on jewelry so either get a sturdier band, or take it off during these activities.
Don't set the stone too high, it can get stuck or bang on things more easily. (My old diamond was set too high to wear gloves in winter- do not recommend)
 
My head is spinning......I have never seen so many questions in one thread.
 
Congratulations!

I’ll defer to more experienced posters for most of your questions; however will just echo the advice not to go too thin on the band. We recently had a horror thread here where someone’s 3 carat diamond and head snapped off in its entirety.
 
I think you need to find a trusted artist and leave most of this up to them. I would suggest Victor Canera or Maytal Hannah. Victor
may or may not be willing to set a stone he has not provided. Maytal will do a setting for you.



 
Hi Everyone - Thanks for the responses to my dissertation! Truly humbling to see such thoughtful responses in such a short amount of time. I’m an engineer by trade, hence the nutty questions around the details of a setting.

It seems like the prevailing sentiment is to not go too thin... When I do get with my jeweler, it sounds like he and his team will answer most of my other questions as we iterate the design. This thread was meant to be a precursor to that conversation.

Any other do’s and don’ts for oval solitaire settings? Thank you everyone.
 
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