resetting an heirloom Marquise

[Cehrabehra]

this one is still my favorite - so unique and lovely! I may do some of the details differently but the basic layout is perfection.

Link here
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/e-w-82-marquise-with-greenlake-jewelry-works-custom-setting.45411/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/e-w-82-marquise-with-greenlake-jewelry-works-custom-setting.45411/[/URL]

 

[CaseyP]

I read the thread on photographing diamonds, and I took some better shots with my tripod and actual digital camera (versus my cell phone)

I will see her friend (my e-ring supervisor ) and show her a few of the settings in this thread.

Cehrabehra, turns out her finger is 18mm wide where a ring would sit, so MAYBE an E-W is possible, but very, very tight. that only leaves 3mm on either side before the stone starts stabbing her. I love that setting so much, but I think I might do something similar in a north/south, but def. a bezel like that singlestone.

A plan is coming together!


Pictures of the stone in it's current home:

 

[LGK]

I'd vote for the Greenlake setting turned N/S (because I personally don't love the E/W orientation- marquises are some of the most flattering stones out there on the hand, and turning them totally negates that effect IMO- unless you've got hand-model gorgeous hands, it can make fingers look shorter- JMHO of course).rai

Or the Singlestone, or Tacori e-ring's gma's ring. Wow both are gorgeous! You might ask some of those places for ballpark quotes- unfortunately settings are ridiculously expensive right now.

Definitely check out your cousin's work in person. Not every jeweler can do filigree, millgrain and engraving very well- every jeweler has a different specialty, and work with what his is. (I learned that one the hard way!) If he does sleeker more modern work, you might have to figure out a style that would work to his strength, or just bite the bullet and spend a bit more to go with one of the folks who do very good antique style work (Singlestone, Greenlake Jewelers, Jewels by Erica Grace, and Victor Canera come to mind).

 

[Laila619]

I really love it as a solitaire! It's very classy.

I don't think an E-W setting will work, since it's over 10mm long!

 

[tyty333]

I love that E/W ring that everyone is referring to but I dont recommend you doing an E/W unless your GF asked for an E/W
setting. Its a very particular look (which most of us love but E/W isnt for everyone). I'm still thinking you should have
the current solitare setting polished and ask her with that. Then the two of you can design something together. That way
you know she will love it plus its also a fun bonding experience.

 

[Taylorbug!]

This is one of my favorites. I actually have a marquise e ring that was custom made, but if I ever change it, it will be more like this one.

 

[CaseyP]

That marquise is HUGE! and full!

I sat down yesterday with my fiance-to-be's best friend, and we basically married the singlestone setting, with the pear accent stone setting from Signed Pieces, with some filigree/ engraving from the Greenlake E-W.

It ended up looking like a delicate, filigreed Marquise bezel set N-S with two pear accent stones.


I'm going to take the picture to my cousin and see if he can match it with anything from a catalogue, and if not, then we will start talking custom work.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

I would have never made it this far without the help. I will update this when some progress has been made.

 

[Cehrabehra]

The problem with the n/w version of greenlake is the exposed girdle and damage statistics. Most damage occurs on the e/w sides of the mounted stone. The thing about the gl one IS that amazing exposed side which is much safer on the n/s sides.

 

[CaseyP]

I don't know what an exposed girdle would even look like on a N/S. The setting for the centerstone ended up looking like a detailed bezel setting, sort of like the singlestone.

However it also just depends on what my cousin can do. If he is really good at one thing versus another then I will play to his strengths, unless it's so drastically different that I need to go to another custom maker.

That is interesting information, however. i hadn't thought about damaging the center stone. I had worried about losing it, though

 

[CaseyP]

Well,

After emailing casting houses and a lot of production places, no one really has anything that will fit my stone other than a simple solitaire band.

I finally took a look at Tacori, and they have an amazing setting that is exactly what I am looking for, and it's right at the top of my price range, as well!

I'm not making any decisions until I talk to my cousin tomorrow afternoon, but I don't know if I can get anything custom for the price, and Tacoris are apparently made to fit each stone, so it is a...custom production? I'm not sure.

I was talking with Eric from Since1910.com, and a repolish of my diamond came up...I had asked if the Tacori setting would arrive at my door polished, or if it would need to return to them in New York. He thought I was referring to my Marquise.


However this brings up a question...how do you know if a diamond needs a polish? Mine looks awefully hazy, though I think it's just dirty.

It's a shade over 2 ct...2.05, I was wondering if it would be worthwhile to lose a bit of that .05 for a recut/repolish?

I figure since I am getting the stone for free, I should at least make sure it is looking good.

Edit:

Here is the setting from since1910.com

http://www.since1910.com/engagement/tacori/tacori-engagement-ring-with-marquise-side-diamonds-ht2198-ps1212.aspx

 

[slg47]

I would definitely get it cleaned.

Also, I love JeraVae's ring (in this thread...about 1/2 way down). GORGEOUS setting for a marquise.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-your-marquise-cuts.134553/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-your-marquise-cuts.134553/[/URL]

 

[Gypsy]

I think getting it really well cleaned and then re-polished would be a great idea. I also think you should get it appraised before re-setting and then update the appraisal after.

As for settings. It's a big stone so Northwest in my opinion. And honestly I love Marquise with split shank crown/shank settings without a halo with shanks that curve. You will need to get one made custom to your stone though. So I suggest working with vendors that can do that type thing (like Singlestone, JBEG, BGD, ERD) but my first choice would be Victor Canera or Steven Kirsch depending on your budget.

Something like this setting with a marquise looks great (I couldn't find a pic but have seen one in real life)

 

[Gypsy]

Okay so...that setting was way to bulky for me. THIS is what I mean by the curling split shanks... but with no halo around the stone. Just the shanks up to the basket:

I would have Steven Kirsch do this setting without a halo, like the one above only more refined.

 

[CaseyP]

That is lovely!

I also love the one that JeraVae has. That low riding bezel is exactly what I have in mind.

Now just to make the two play nice together....

I'm thinking a floral engraving motif to decorate the split shank, and connect to the bezel like the ring that was Tacori's great grandmothers....

Hrm.


This just keeps getting harder

 

[Gypsy]

That is lovely!

I also love the one that JeraVae has. That low riding bezel is exactly what I have in mind.

Now just to make the two play nice together....

I'm thinking a floral engraving motif to decorate the split shank, and connect to the bezel like the ring that was Tacori's great grandmothers....

Hrm.


This just keeps getting harder

Sounds like you just need a good designer to put it all on paper for you so you can see it to me. I LOVE AND ADORE Tacori's mom's ring, and I've seen it in person.

 

[CaseyP]

That could be a possibility.

I just got back from visiting my cousin's shop, and he does do custom settings. He has about a 2 month lead time, which is fine with me.

He really knows his stuff. Sitting down and visiting with him was a lot like the experiences I've read about on here with people going to meet face to face with some of the forum jewelers, as far as customer service and such.

He is family, but we only see each other at the holidays. I don't think that he is giving me any special attention that he wouldn't give to any other customer who walks in.

I learned a few things,

First of all, my stone is 1 carat, not 2.05. I got the 2.05 number from a mall jeweler who put the entire setting on a scale, and I thought had deducted the weight of the gold. I have no idea what she did.


My cousin took the stone out of the setting, and onto the scale, and it came up exactly 1.00.

It's 11.68 x 5.76mm (um or something close to that...I might be mixing up my decimals) It's 11 something over half x 5 something over half.

He said that the color looked to be an H, but that was just a quick glance. He needs to professionally clean it and spend more time looking at it but it will be in the H-I color range.

He said it will probably be an SI1, because there is one tiny inclusion dead center from the top down. It is too deep to do anything with. no feathering, and nothing else he noticed...but again, he will give it a proper evaluation when he appraises it.

I'm still very happy with the stone. I think these are reasonably good numbers across the board for the budget that I would have, and if I had to make the same decision, I would have probably picked about the same....Maybe go to VSI and smaller proportions...


anyways, I told him what I wanted...engraving, pear side stones, and a low, secure setting, and we looked through his books.

http://www.uniquesettings.com/products/show/4302

I had found this and told him that they didn't have it in the size I needed, I had emailed them. He said that they won't really deal with the public but he will talk to them and give them exact measurements, and see if that could work.

It was a setting that I loved and was so happy to Finally find a marquise setting with pear side stones and engraving.

Now I've been spoiled by all of these designer settings and custom pieces on here.

Once I get a quote back for that piece, we'll go from there.

I found 2 identical .45 pear stones that might be perfect for the sides,

http://www.abazias.com/database/NewDiamondInfo.asp?stock=97368742&flag=ps

http://www.b2cjewels.com/dd-2433500-0.45-carat-Pear-diamond-H-color-SI2-Clarity.aspx?cid=DiamPS&utm_source=pricescope.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pricescope.com

If the quote comes back in the custom range, then I will look back at the split shank with engraving.

I just feel like she would rather have engraving than pave stones.

The things I like about this setting are that:

It's production. It's going to put the maximum amount of my budget on her finger.

It's a 3 stone with pears. I really love the look like that.

It's got engraving (though probably not actually hand engraved),

It's got a VERY secure 6 prong V prong setting, and the two pears protecting the other sides. It's something like a basket setting? or a half bezel?

It's going to be flat and hard to snag. My girlfriend kept mentioning how she didn't want to snag it.

The things that I am worried about are:

I've grown attached to the basket setting and bezel side stones look of say...this singlestone:

http://singlestone.com/index.php?page=collections&catID=14&pID=620&startRow=14

though maybe with 4 more prongs to help out those two V prongs. However that would have to be a custom setting.

I worry that casting houses settings are going to be chunky. I think part of it is the picture on the site looks so huge. I have to remind myself that those pears are 4mm across, so it's not all so massive.

 

[CaseyP]

Alright,

First off I want to thank everyone for your advice and input and for suggesting custom makers.

After my meeting with my cousin on wednesday, and looking at that production piece, I was just really not feeling right about the look. I like all of the elements in it, but now how they come together.

So, I did something a bit non-traditional, and something I have mixed feelings about, but I brought my fiance to be in on the search. I felt like if I picked something out myself, I would always wonder if she would have liked another one of the rings I was considering instead. Since I would never show her the options she could have had, she would never know so I would never know.

So, I showed her this thread. She read through it all and caught up on the searching I've done, and it's been really fruitful because she doesn't like the look of some of the things I thought she would.

Now, I feel like we're at the point of having seen too many settings. She likes certain things about different styles but it's so hard to pick one. I'm really glad she's feeling that way because I was in the same position.

I started looking at Greenlake, and their prices really surprised me! We might end up going with them, but first we have to come up with an idea of a design before we have anything to offer a designer.

She's very artistic and has taken a lot of design classes...she's really more suited to working with a designer than I am, and I'm glad I made the decision to involve her.

I feel like I traded the "surprise" factor...which is a big deal to me, but I traded that away for the assurance of getting the ring exactly right. She's going to be wearing it a lot longer than just the proposal, so I feel like I got a good deal on that swap.

 

[Gypsy]

Alright,

I feel like I traded the "surprise" factor...which is a big deal to me, but I traded that away for the assurance of getting the ring exactly right. She's going to be wearing it a lot longer than just the proposal, so I feel like I got a good deal on that swap.

YOU ARE MY FAVORITE POSTER EVER!

I promise you that you made exactly the ring decision. YAY YOU! Can't wait to see the end result!

 

[slg47]

Alright,

I feel like I traded the "surprise" factor...which is a big deal to me, but I traded that away for the assurance of getting the ring exactly right. She's going to be wearing it a lot longer than just the proposal, so I feel like I got a good deal on that swap.

YOU ARE MY FAVORITE POSTER EVER!

I promise you that you made exactly the ring decision. YAY YOU! Can't wait to see the end result!

yes, I agree. This way you won't have to worry about 'guessing' what she likes! and the proposal itself can still be a surprise

 

[Tacori E-ring]

My sister's e-ring was designed by Greenlake. They do a great job. Good for you for involving your GF. She deserves to have the ring of her dreams and you obviously want to give that to her.

 

[CaseyP]

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I was a bit unsure when I went ahead and told her...I knew it was something I couldn't un-show her later.


Tacori, I'm glad you posted.

She likes the shape of your mom's ring a lot, but I have no idea what to call that sort of head. It's like a 4 prong but with a cradle that the stone rests on.

I've been calling a "low set basket", when I try to describe it to jewelers, but I have no idea if they understand what I'm saying.

 

[KaeKae]

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I was a bit unsure when I went ahead and told her...I knew it was something I couldn't un-show her later.


Tacori, I'm glad you posted.

She likes the shape of your mom's ring a lot, but I have no idea what to call that sort of head. It's like a 4 prong but with a cradle that the stone rests on.

I've been calling a "low set basket", when I try to describe it to jewelers, but I have no idea if they understand what I'm saying.

Casey, I've been following your story an echo the sentiment that bringing you lady into the ring design process was the best thing to do. I wish my DH had done the same, 24 years ago.

I hope Tacori will agree with me. If you like her mom's ring, it would probably be best to print out a copy of the picture to show your GF and your jeweler. That way, you don't have to worry about your description being confused in translation. I can't wait to see the end result of your ring design. It's going to be beautiful!!

 

[Tacori E-ring]

Send them photos of things you like. My mom's ring is VERY low. I have never measured it but it sits lower than my e-ring. My e-ring setting is a Tacori designed for a RB center. Tacori customized the head at no additional cost to fit my EC. So that is something to consider too since you mentioned liking Tacori settings. I chose my setting and it did not make my engagement any less exciting.

 

[Tacori E-ring]

Kae, we were posting at the same time! I have no problem anyone using anything I post as inspiration. I take it as a compliment. I only ask you post pictures when the piece is finished!

 

[Tacori E-ring]

That is lovely!

I also love the one that JeraVae has. That low riding bezel is exactly what I have in mind.

Now just to make the two play nice together....

I'm thinking a floral engraving motif to decorate the split shank, and connect to the bezel like the ring that was Tacori's great grandmothers....

Hrm.


This just keeps getting harder

Sounds like you just need a good designer to put it all on paper for you so you can see it to me. I LOVE AND ADORE Tacori's mom's ring, and I've seen it in person.

Thanks L!

 

[CaseyP]

Yeah, one thing that she wanted was a really low set ring, so I am trying to have the only thing rising above the shank is the depth of the stone itself.

This Marquise is really shallow anyways so I think it will look good.

I sat down with a drawing tablet this morning and tried to start sketching out the design. I'm trying to get the proportions right.

I'll definitely update this thread as things start to progress

 

[CaseyP]

My girlfriend beat me to it, as far as finishing some sketches go.

Mine was basically the same just not as pretty, so I won't post it. She's definitely the artist of us.







She is going to do a few more sketches for split shanks and something like this:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/50950056/round-antique-diamond-engagement-ring

I feel like I've seen that setting before in some catalog, but I have no idea anymore. I've looked at so many settings.


The plan, now, is once we get some specifics hammered out on the designs, I'm going to talk with some custom makers and see who specializes in what we are looking at.

Then, I might, or might not bring her in to approve the design we do go with. She doesn't want to see the actual ring, and would prefer to see as little as possible once I am happy with her input, so when I feel like I can take her out of the process, I will.

 

[Cehrabehra]

GOOD FOR YOU! For bringing her in on it

I had a comment about types of setting with a marquis... me personally when I look at a marquis stone it isn't the MARQUIS shape that looks dated to me but the type of head. There are a lot of settings for marquis stones that are *amazing* but sticking it in prongs is not it for me... baskets, bezels, split shanks, halos are all amazing.

Plus my friend who had a marquis for years in prongs said it was very scratchy and she hated wearing it. Lost it and got an oval. I think if she'd just reset the prongs into a bezel or basket she would have been happy.

 

[Gypsy]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220860288688?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Saw this and it reminded me of your design.

Love what you guys have drawn up. That will not accomodate a flush fit wedding band though, so just keep that in mind. It's important to some and irrelevant to others.

 

[Gypsy]

The second design looks a little like the BGD Josette.