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resetting an heirloom Marquise

We are meeting with my cousin next thursday to work on a custom setting.

She is leaning more to the v split shanks than the open twisting shanks.

Still loves engraving, filigree, etc.


That one I linked to on Etsy is from a jeweler called "Designs by KNR"

http://www.etsy.com/listing/50950056/round-antique-diamond-engagement-ring

The price is really amazing. The jeweler said the setting itself costs 1175...that's for the engagement ring and the wedding band, and he would set my Marquise for free.

However googling KNR and making sure it was the same place (address matches, phone matches) There are some really bad reviews, and the good reviews are from the same two people over and over, pasted word for word.

However she loves the design, so she is working on something similar to take to Chuck.

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

I have done a lot of reading on engraving and rhodium plating, because I was worried that the rhodium would fill in around the relieved areas and dull the detailing. I'm not worried about that anymore, but I am worried about the engraving attracting dirt, needing to be cleaned, and the cleaning loosing the tiny pave stones.

Any opinions on engraving and pave/ bead set stones?


http://antiqueengagementrings.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1184

This is another V split I am looking at from a company I trust a lot more than the KNR setting. It is 1275 + 150 for the custom head and setting in my stone. I think this is an excellent price, personally.
 
Those are both really pretty!

Bead set pave is generally pretty secure because there is a thin metal border on either side of the pave.
 
Thanks for the reassurance :)

I am trying to find a few other antique style V shanks to look at. They seem to be a rare setting.


I know you PriceScope-ers are amazing at finding settings. I just want to be "armed with options".
 
The milgrain on that etsy setting is HUGE and the execution (ei quality of workmanship) kinda um... sucks. SO I would make sure you stipulate that you are showing them that as an example of design not quality. Here's some real antique and you can see how everything is very proportional and harmonious, especially the milgrain.

27376_large.jpg

pale_pink_rose_diamond1.jpg

27379_large.jpg
 
Thank you Gypsy, I certainly will. That Etsy seller has lost any faith I had in them when the owner made a fake account on another jewelry forum to give himself a good review.

My girlfriend drew up some new design ideas for a V split shank (like the two we are looking at.)

The plan will be to take them to my cousin and simultaneously send them to Brian Gavin and Greenlake, so that I have three quotes coming in for the piece instead of just one.


In my tireless Google image searching for more antique style V split Marquise, I ended up finding this:

http://www.lawrencejeffrey.com/estate-antique-jewelry/art_deco-C32/art_deco_176ct_marquise_diamond_ring_platinum_c1930s-P13636.html

I think the basket is gorgeous, but I already have my Marquise diamond, and lack the 10,000 dollars to buy a new one.

The questionable thing to me is that..the stone is GIA graded. Does that mean that they unmounted it, shipped it off, then reset it? I thought that was frowned upon in 80-90 year old rings?
 
Hello again, everyone!

I have been gone awhile mostly just working and saving money for the setting.

I have my money together, I just need to go pick up my last check and retrieve the stone from my cousin's jewelry store, as well as the appraisal.

For those interested, it was rated at

1 ct
SI1 (one major inclusion dead center that is very easy to locate...otherwise clean stone)
H color
I'll post the exact size later once I have the appraisal in-hand.

I have decided on the setting from Antique Engagement Rings.com

http://antiqueengagementrings.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1183

They will custom shape the head to my Marquise for 150 dollars more.

However I was only able to find 3 V-split engraved settings all over the internet, so before I pull the trigger on this, I was wondering if anyon else knows of any others?

one was philip press, the other was KNR, and the third is this one.


Thanks,

Casey
 
CaseyP|1322421842|3069580 said:
Hello again, everyone!

I have been gone awhile mostly just working and saving money for the setting.

I have my money together, I just need to go pick up my last check and retrieve the stone from my cousin's jewelry store, as well as the appraisal.

For those interested, it was rated at

1 ct
SI1 (one major inclusion dead center that is very easy to locate...otherwise clean stone)
H color
I'll post the exact size later once I have the appraisal in-hand.

I have decided on the setting from Antique Engagement Rings.com

http://antiqueengagementrings.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1183

They will custom shape the head to my Marquise for 150 dollars more.

However I was only able to find 3 V-split engraved settings all over the internet, so before I pull the trigger on this, I was wondering if anyon else knows of any others?

one was philip press, the other was KNR, and the third is this one.


Thanks,

Casey
Click to expand...


Did the appraisal come back as you expected? Has she seen the stone yet? I bet you are both very excited!
 
She has seen this thread so she's seen the pictures of the stone at the top of page 2, but she hasn't seen it in person.

The appraisal was actually much higher than I expected!

Plugging in the stats for the stone into say..pricescope diamond search and bluenile search, most of the stones come in around 4500 dollars.

The appraisal value was 6200, so that is exciting. My cousin (the jeweler) appraised it, but he isn't the one who sold it to us, and he's not making the setting it is going in. I feel it is fairly unbiased.

However the jeweler setting the stone (Leigh Jay Nacht in NY) includes a free appraisal, and once the completed ring comes in from Fed Ex, I'm going to get it independently appraised.

http://sueswhitaker.com/qual.htm This is a local independent appraiser, and this will be the appraisal I base the insurance value on.

I don't want an inflated appraisal since the insurance charges me the premium based on appraisal value, and then replaces my item based on like and kind...not on dollar value. I feel the 6200 might be inflated.
 
Ooo I love that setting for a marquise! This is going to be one lovely ring :appl: Please share pics once its complete.
 
I guess it's too late to edit my earlier info from the appraisal, but now that I'm home:

Marquise Shape
H Color
SI1 Clarity
1.00 ct
11.0 x 5.78 . 2.3mm

Note: Stone is extremely shallow.

6,200.00

and thanks Stargirl, I will ask Leigh Jay Nacht to take a few and explain about this thread. My own photography abilities are more or less camera-phone level.
 
Sort of a new question, but since it's related to this same project, I figured I'd ask here, especially since I've had such great help, so far.

How important is the stone setting being done in-house?

I ask because, I have been working with greenlake on a custom setting, since that was one of the ideas I had before I found that Leigh Jay Nacht setting pictured above.

I wanted to give them a chance to work in my budget, and I would really prefer something custom if it can be done.

So I linked the images of the settings in this thread to the greenlake design page...the V split shanks, engraving, and different types of bead set stones on the shank,

I gave them my budget of 2,000 dollars (I was expecting them to go a bit above).

However my first quote came in at 2,990 dollars. I'm really a bit annoyed by this because it feels like a cheap sales tactic...like the car dealer shows you a 30,000 thousand dollar car before taking you to sedan you asked to see.

so I asked her to disregard the specific images and stone sizes from the pictures I linked, and to please design a V split, basket setting for my Marquise (which I linked the info from),

and from there, once we have a setting that is in budget, we can work further.

I really am lenient on a lot of individual features like engraving or any filigree, as long as the design itself looks good. My girlfriend's favorite setting (The KNR setting) didn't have any engraving at all. I think she's more into the shape and style than any spefic feature...other than the V split.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/50950056/round-antique-diamond-engagement-ring


onto my question... (sorry this is rambling a bit!)

part of that quote from Greenlake was a 300 dollar setting fee for an outside stone. The LJN setting above has a 50 dollar setting fee.

The setting is 12,75, plus a 100 dollar custom fabrication fee to have the head designed for my Marquise stone. Then a 50 dollar setting fee for the stone. So a total of 1,425.

My cousin, I'm fair sure would charge similar. I haven't asked on a specific setting fee, but I'm sure it wouldn't be 300 dollars.

I know that Greenlake offers CZ stones for 50 dollars. I'm fairly certain they could design the setting with one of those, and then another jeweler (probably my cousin) could set the real stone in it's place.

So that is my question, really. How important is it to have the stone set By greenlake. Taking into account this is a custom setting, however also taking into account the stone is already with me. So if they set it, I still have to ship it out to them, it's not there with them already or anything.

Thanks,

Casey
 
I was considering writing to whiteflash to give them my budget and the drawings that I have, to see if they can do anything for 2,000.

Any thoughts on getting the stone set by an outside jeweler from the designer? Or is it better to stay with the designer for setting a stone?
 
I'd recommend personally stick with the designer for setting your stone.
 
Thank you for the settings, I've seen most of those, both from blue nile and the casting house copies.


As far as production settings go, I'm pretty sure that this is the one she wants the most:

http://antiqueengagementrings.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1183

Mostly she's looking for a V-split shank and a non-prong setting.


I went ahead and wrote to brian gavin about a custom V split setting, using their engraved cathedral with an open gallery as an example.


Oh, and here is the picture from Greenlake:

http://www.greenlakejewelry.com/blog/images/casey%20pettus20111202105653.JPG

However like I said, this is a 3,000 dollar setting.

Edited to add:

The greenlake setting is based on this drawing from my girlfriend:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v285/Causa/?action=view&current=Photo86.jpg

That is really the look she is going for. The closest we've found in production is the antique engagement rings setting linked above.

However I am hoping that for 500 dollars more (2,000 dollars total) I can get a bit closer to the etsy setting/ her drawing.

Edited again to add the Etsy link:

http://img2.etsystatic.com/il_570xN.156486190.jpg <---I really want something like that, but higher quality. That setting is 1176 dollars for the band and the engagement ring semi-mount. I want to spend 2,000 on just the engagement ring setting, but have it made decently.

Am I asking for the impossible?
 
Gotcha. I hope you find what you are looking for!
 
Thank you for the well wishes!

I don't mean to be short with anyone here. I am just a bit frustrated with Greenlake. The "custom setting conversation" promised on the website didn't really happen for me. My designer mostly just re-drew my girlfriend's picture and priced it out.

I'm not upset that it's out of budget. A setting costs what it costs, and there is little the designer can do about that.

I'm upset that the designer didn't listen to what I wanted, and my budget, and show me some designs that were possible in that frame.

It sort of adds to the frustration that there are Many, Many settings listed on greenlake's website for under 2,000 dollars for a similar custom in 14k white gold, that are all very close to what I want.

I collected all of these settings from their gallery and made notes on what I liked about each one, plus my girlfriend drew pictures of of what she liked.

I feel like we really put in our fair share of contribution on this, and were careful to select settings on the site that were priced in-range.
 
I totally understand your frustration. I tend to go for stock settings myself; I had a really bad custom experience with a local jeweler, and since then have avoided it like the plague.
 
I am leaning more and more towards the antinque engagement rings setting.

A) my girlfriend loves it.

B) it's in budget and the funds are in the bank. I could buy it right now.

C) I know exactly what it looks like, as opposed to sketches etc. I have had bad custom experiences in the past for other projects outside of rings. You get promised a lot and it comes back looking worse and costing more than a stock setting.

However...my plan is get a fitted wedding band. My girlfriend wants an unusually shaped engagement ring.

To solve that problem, if I went custom with the e-ring, I could go back to them to commission a matching wedding band.

If I get this production setting, from a jeweler who does not take custom orders, I'm at a loss for the wedding band. I could hire another jeweler to make a matching one, but then there is shipping the e-ring out, getting it measured, the metals might not match from 2 different companies...etc.

My hope was to have Greenlake make the E-ring, and then hire them again to make a band that fits against it. I've seen them make very intricate wedding sets before

like so:

http://www.greenlakejewelry.com/gallery/pics/final/51996%20%285%29.jpg

http://www.greenlakejewelry.com/gallery/pics/final/52095.jpg
 
Fitted bands are tricky, and you may find that you/she likes the look of a straight band rather than a fitted one. Fitted bands can't be worn alone without looking odd, IMO. If an intricately shaped engagement ring is what she wants, then I say go for the antiquesettings one, and you can figure out the wedding band down the line.
 
She definitely wants a fitted set, she really wanted one of the interlocking ones like an intricate guard or wrap,

However she likes the look of filigree and engraving, and the two aren't compatible.

I think I've found the solution, though!

Leigh Jay Nacht has a number of fitted, matching bands for that setting, two of which I really like.

I've attached some images for you all, and I wanted to say that I went ahead and had the invoice generated for the ring and the custom work.

Now it's just a matter of making the payment!


Images:

Edit: this will take a minute.

Edit: okay, here we go:

This is the band I think matches the best, the L1002.





Here is the link on the site for this one:
http://antiqueengagementrings.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=39


And here is the other band that I think matched well: L1328





and the link for this one:
http://antiqueengagementrings.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=2623

Please let me know what you all think! I think the first one matches a bit more style wise, but there isn't really 1 matching band, there are a lot that could go together...I think.

L1906 & L1002 r3.jpg

L1906 & L1002 r2.jpg

L1906 & L1328r.jpg

L1906 & L1328r2.jpg
 
The first one definitely looks the best, IMO! It echoes the ering beautifully, and snugs right up to it. Lovely!
 
Thanks!

I went ahead and got insurance on my Marquise through Jeweler's Mutual. Tomorrow I just need to scan my appraisal and upload it for them and the policy will be active.

Then, it's just a matter of shipping it to them in NYC.
 
lknvrb4|1315909335|3016361 said:
This is my favorite setting and I think it is classy.
Click to expand...

A timeless setting,

Casey, you asked about the cut of your stone being relatively antique or modern. I'm sorry to say but your pictures are too blurry fo us to be able to see the cut pattern. :)) :wavey:
 
Oh yeah, I forgot I asked that.

I am going to ask Leigh to take a few pictures of the complete set once the stone is set, he should have much better skills and equipment than I do.
 
CaseyP|1317810732|3033716 said:
... That Etsy seller has lost any faith I had in them when the owner made a fake account on another jewelry forum to give himself a good review.
Click to expand...

Good move. That KNR guy's quality is substandard, at best. I bought a semimount from him on ebay, back in 2006. It was junk. Opaque pave, sloppy work. Not as advertised. I returned it per policy. Seller was combative and also very slow to refund. His ebay ID: knr_inc , Mine: centinnial201, date: Oct-18-06 16:46, item number: (#5084307569), just so you know I am not making this up.

Going back into lurkdom, now ...
 
Yeah I am glad I passed that up! Almost all the reviews for it were scary and the ones that weren't were from users with one post, and the username was the same name as the owner of KNR. Very fishy stuff.


So a couple of updates,

First of all, thank you all for helping me find this setting and helping to introduce me to so many great jewelers.


I got my jewelry policy approved with Jeweler's Mutual. It was a bit rough at first since I applied online, and a loose stone wasn't an option, then I had to upload my invoice for the setting to prove that I was getting the stone set...but then I needed evidence of payment, which was a problem because It was going to take a few business days to get the funds all transferred into the same account to make a payment, and I wanted to use those days for the stone to be travelling to the jeweler...BUT I wasn't going to mail the stone without jewelery insurance on it..


I called Jeweler's Mutual and actually got the underwriter on the phone. She reviewed my policy number and understood that I wasn't going to pay for the setting just yet, and that i didn't need to pay for it, the invoice was enough.

So my policy was approved the next day! 84 dollars annually for 7700 dollars retail value. (I'm going to get the full ring appraised once it's complete.)

Then today, my stone arrived at Leigh Jay Nacht....I shipped it insured overnight express. I mailed it Thursday at 8 am, and it arrived Friday. Total of 35 dollars, which I think is cheaper than Registered would have been.

I called to get an invoice from them to pay my bill, and even though they were very busy, Leigh took the time over the phone to pull up my order and send me the invoice. I paid it, and I got a 2 separate quick emails from both Winona and Leigh letting me know they received the payment.


All in all, I'm very impressed at how fast and how efficient things are ran there, and it makes me feel pretty confident about my purchase.

Casey
 
Hey all,

I just wanted to give a small pre - review of Leigh Jay Nacht, share my experiences and what not.


Okay,

first of all, the order process was amazing. Winona sent me the invoice, and I replied with questions, and it was like an instant message chat, rather than email. I was getting answers INSTANTLY.

Then I mailed off the stone...overnight express, fully insured. It was 35 dollars, with the insurance and the overnight service.

The next day I called Leigh Jay Nacht, and even though the store was full, I asked if my stone had arrived and they looked through the daily mail and confirmed that they had it.

We had discussed that I would be paying through paypal, previously, and at first I was told that I would get an invoice once Winona was finished with a customer in the store.

I was at the airport at the time, on a lay-over. I called when it was almost time for me to pack up my laptop and go to my gate.

I explained the situation and Leigh got on the phone, looked up my order total and fired off the invoice with me on the phone. I paid and I got a confirmation email from Leigh and Winona saying they received the payment, etc.


Over the weekend, I emailed asking on an arrival date, since I was trying to work out holiday plans between my family and my Fiance-to-be's family :) She answered me on her Iphone the same day just to say that she would talk to the production manager on Monday and get me an answer.

I honestly really felt like a VIP. The customer service is a complete 180 from what I had experienced so far. Then she emailed me on Monday saying that it would be finished on Wednesday, and be in my hands Thursday! This was a surprise because when I had initially placed the order, I was told that jobs started after Wednesday, the 7th couldn't be guaranteed for Christmas. I wasn't expecting it until closer to new years.

THEN, I just got another email saying the ring is shipped overnight Fedex, and will be here TOMORROW!

She also included a photo shoot of the ring just for sharing with you all on Pricescope :)

Here it is :D

Casey's Ring (1).JPG

Casey's Ring (2).JPG

Casey's Ring (3).JPG
 
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