Alexandrite Help - Engagement Ring

[Darkwind]

Thank you Chrono, Slks, Freke & LD for that advice, I'll break out the scissors this morning to show her different options to help determine the ring band size.

Will stick with the ring designer in terms of sourcing diamonds if we go that route and it won't be princess cut Will chat with the gf when she wakes up about alternatives. I'm probably going to chat her out of it...well try too.

In terms of ring material I know there's a certain amount of subjectivity i.e. some like platinum or yellow gold or white gold etc. So I guess I have actually two questions.

1. Strictly in terms of durability and maintenance (zero or little maintenance) does one material win out? And if it's yellow or white gold is it better to go 10, 12, 14 or 18k from a durability standpoint? Basically I don't want to reset this stone ever if possible. For example I notice gma had his in 12k - see link here:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/his-and-hers-custom-alexandrite-rings.184953/

2. I know some members of this board *cough* LD *cough* have a number of alexandrite rings. Is there a certain ring material that you prefer for alexandrites just to enhance the colours of the stone? Conversely do you feel any ring material has a tendency to clash or take away from the alex?

 

[Niel]

Based on her style id absolutly love to see it in this
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/julies-ring-18k-white-gold-5368w18

 

[LD]

The only metal (colour) I wouldn't go for would be rose gold because of the colour changing properties. Alex looks good in yellow, white gold and platinum, so you're onto a winner whichever you use.

I love platinum but it develops a patina very quickly (actually after one or two wears - and I'm light on my rings) and so looks duller. White gold can be highly polished and stay that way, as can yellow. If you want a ring with little maintenance but with a shine then go for gold. If you like the look of patina then go for platinum.

The lower karat rings ie 9k, 10k, 14k, are tougher and more durable but 18k and above is more luxurious. Whatever you decide on, make sure the wedding band is the same to prevent one wearing away another. Of course that does take years but prevention is better from the beginning.

At the end of the day, whether you go for yellow or white/platinum, it needs to suit your GF's colouring so rather than make the choice, let her try them on and see which colour works best for her.

 

[chrono]

Platinum is my top choice for a white metal. If going with yellow gold, 14K yellow is a good balance of strength and durability. 18K yellow gold is a softer more buttery yellow but isn't as strong as 14K yellow. White gold is actually dipped in rhodium for a shiny white appearance and depending on body chemistry, may need to be redipped every few months to years as it starts to take a slightly yellow tinted sheen. 10K is harder but more brittle and not an alloy I recommend for an engagement ring.

Platinum will show scratches sooner than gold but both can be polished to a shiny smooth finish again. The difference is that platinum shifts, so you do not lose any metal. With gold, polishing removes a tiny amount of metal, hence over umpteen years, the setting will wear thinner.

In terms of what looks best with your alexandrite will depend on the stone itself. Certain colours go better with white and other colours are enhanced by a yellow metal. I'd wait until you get the stone in hand, then play around with different metals to see which looks best to you.

 

[CollectorExpress]

Looks pretty pink to me ,are you sure the color change is not moderate ?

 

[CollectorExpress]

I was referring to the 3.06 ct Alexandrite ring .Looks kind of pinkish .I know that because I have a 4.7 ct one that looks a bit like that but with a deeper pink.I mean it still pink ?!

 

[Darkwind]

Happy to report that the alexandrite arrived safe and sound a couple weeks ago. Item as described, looks quite nice and a strong colour change. A big thanks to everyone for helping me pick this stone, we're pretty excited to set it

Been in contact with a local jeweller to make the setting. My girlfriend decided upon the style and we received a computer rendering of what it would look like based on our alex (see below).

https://www.pricescope.com//files/images/ringfinal.jpg

https://www.pricescope.com//files/images/ringmodel.jpg

https://www.pricescope.com//files/images/ringmodel2.jpg

The jeweller assured me that the actual ring will be softer, no hard sharp edges, the setting will be down and on the stone, and it will be nice and polished in the metal (whichever metal we chose). He used a 4.5mm band as my girlfriend wanted a thick band.

My girlfriend isn't a fan of yellow gold, I tease her about getting it made in yellow gold but I won't be going that route.

The jeweller gave us the following options and pricing. ($900 for labour regardless of material used)

1. 14k white gold it would be about $610 + 900 = $1510
2. 18k with palladium about $1165 + 900 = $2065
3. Platinum (didn't specify with which alloy) about $2445 + 900 = $3345

Note that I live in eastern Canada. I was wondering if anyone in the USA could confirm that these prices don't seem unreasonable for custom work? I've never worked with this jewellery shop before but they have a very good local repetition.

Unfortunately, we found out today that my girlfriend has a nickel allergy.

As I understand it nickel is the alloy used to make gold look white. Does that completely rule out all possibilities of white metal except Platinum? Or is 18k with palladium still a valid option? (and then there's the question if it'd just be better to get the Platinum ring anyways for durability reasons).

Any thoughts/comments appreciated. So far I've read:

https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/engagement-rings/platinum-vs-white-gold
https://www.pricescope.com/journal/overview_common_alloys_used_jewelry
+ misc articles online

 

[LD]

I was referring to the 3.06 ct Alexandrite ring .Looks kind of pinkish .I know that because I have a 4.7 ct one that looks a bit like that but with a deeper pink.I mean it still pink ?!

 

[LD]

I'm not sure if you can have a w/gold ring made with that doesn't have the nickel component? I know there are different "mixtures" of gold so there may be one without nickel. If not, then you're limited to yellow gold, platinum OR silver. Argentium silver has been quite popular recently because it doesn't tarnish (or doesn't tarnish as quickly) so that might be worth considering. Also, I make rings from 99% silver but the higher the silver content, the less durable it is. So this type of silver MAY break if you drop it, whereas a sterling silver ring is more durable.

I like the setting you've chosen very much. It's elegant and let's the stone speak for itself. I particularly like the trellis underneath. It will also team well with a similar shape wedding band I would think.

 

[Euphony]

Hi there. I have been lurking in this thread because I had been considering an alexandrite for myself with about the same budget, so wanted to follow your journey. Excellent choice, by the way.

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I am a goldsmith so I felt I could answer your pricing question. That is a bit high for a plain platinum mount, in my opinion. What is the gram weight? Have you put in a down payment? I assume yes if you got the CAD file. I would try another goldsmith if you haven't committed. If you are in a small town, I would consider trying out someone in the nearest big city, because their rates might be better.

18k with palladium should be fine, but sometimes still contains traces of nickel. If he allergy is mild (slight rash) it will likely be fine because we are talking only traces here from casting along side so much nickle alloy. If she gets blisters from nickel, platinum is your only good choice. It is the safest option, at any rate, so I would go that way if I were you.

What part of eastern Canada do you live in? Do you mean Ontario or Maritimes (I am a maritimer who now lives in Ontario, so I am curious)? If it is the Maritimes, I can see the problem will be that there are not enough competing goldsmiths to leverage their price down, but I would recommend trying to negotiate in a friendly and respectful manner. I think a platinum mount could be done for less.

Edit: I would not use silver for prongs. SIlver is very soft. It is risky.

 

[LD]

Hi there. I have been lurking in this thread because I had been considering an alexandrite for myself with about the same budget, so wanted to follow your journey. Excellent choice, by the way.

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I am a goldsmith so I felt I could answer your pricing question. That is a bit high for a plain platinum mount, in my opinion. What is the gram weight? Have you put in a down payment? I assume yes if you got the CAD file. I would try another goldsmith if you haven't committed. If you are in a small town, I would consider trying out someone in the nearest big city, because their rates might be better.

18k with palladium should be fine, but sometimes still contains traces of nickel. If he allergy is mild (slight rash) it will likely be fine because we are talking only traces here from casting along side so much nickle alloy. If she gets blisters from nickel, platinum is your only good choice. It is the safest option, at any rate.

What part of eastern Canada do you live in? Do you mean Ontario or Maritimes (I am a maritimer who now lives in Ontario, so I am curious)? If it is the Maritimes, I can see the problem will be that there are not enough competing goldsmiths to leverage their price down, but I would recommend trying to negotiate in a friendly and respectful manner. I think a platinum mount could be done for less.

Just a quick question if you don't mind. Palladium is often rhodium plated - how will that affect the allergy? Personally I don't like palladium because it looks too grey even when coated a million times with rhodium.

 

[pregcurious]

Brian Gavin Designs makes all of their settings custom, but has both set designs and full custom design work with CADs. I have only received quotes from them.

You can find prices of their solitaire designs here. They are a US vendor, so perhaps prices are higher in Canada, but your quotes seem high to me for a platinum solitaire setting. BGD is also priced on the higher end compared to other US vendors. You can search for reviews on the PS search engine.

All predesigned solitaire settings. You can change the metal to platinum:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaires/

One that is close to your design, in platinum, for $1950.
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/x-prong-platinum-5436p

 

[Euphony]

Well, there is palladium and then there is palladium alloyed gold. So white gold is either alloyed with nickel, which makes it white or palladium which makes is greyish. Or you can have straight up palladium, which is dark grey. That would be a legitimate option for the OP if his jeweller casts in palladium (most don't).

Palladium alloyed white gold usually still has trace amounts of nickel and can cause a reaction, whereas plain palladium is safe. It isn't very pretty, but it is safe.

But to answer the question at hand: rhodium plating often acts as a buffer for people with very mild allergies, because it does not cause any irritation. Rhodium, palladium and platinum are all in the same family, and are all safe against the skin. But once is wears off, the gold is back against the skin, and the irritation will start again. And for moderate to severe allergies, it really won't help at all because it is only microns thick. Where I work, we have to rebuild about 10% of our rings in platinum after the fact because of allergies. That is the nature of the beast. Platinum is the safest. It is not fun to work with, though.

 

[LD]

Thanks for that Euphony. I own a pure palladium ring and earrings (that were plated with rhodium) but seriously hate them due to their greyness so it's interesting what you've said. For me, if I couldn't wear w/gold then it'd be platinum all the way!

 

[chrono]

Pricing on all the metals seem really high. I think it's time to look around elsewhere. I also agree that white gold with a palladium alloy is the only white gold metal that is touted as nickel free. Interesting that it still contains trace amounts of nickel as I was unaware of that.

Euphony,
Welcome to PS. It's great to have someone in the trade help out in an impartial manner.

 

[pregcurious]

BTW, the BGD ring looks like it has less metal than the one designed for you, but I still don't think you need to pay over $3K for a platinum solitaire.

 

[tara3056]

Those prices sound very high. I've had a few more intricate items made in platinum lately that had between 0.35-0.66 ctw of diamond melee included for just a little over $1k, not 2! I've personally worked with DanielM on etsy, and his pricing is very, very fair. I have some slight dissatisfaction with one of the more intricate pieces I've received from him, but intricate pieces are not their bread-and-butter. If you look at their shop, they are very good at doing simpler items.

But whoever you end up going with, those prices do seem very high to me for just a basic, solitaire setting that doesn't seem very complex. I'd definitely get some more quotes!

 

[Darkwind]

Thank you for the prompt response all Euphony I live in the Maritimes - Halifax, N.S. Part of the reason for going local is figured it'd be easier if we had sizing issues, easy to figure out an exact design plus I don't really want to send my alex in the mail to a shop far away. Just afraid of it getting stolen etc.

Glad to hear there's better deals to be had, just not sure if there's much local. I put a $100 deposit down. Originally figured we'd go with 14k white gold based on the price but as that isn't an option I'm less than thrilled spending over $3400 plus 15% tax ~ $3915 on a platinum ring.

DanielM is about a 12 hour road trip by car. I'm not opposed to a drive, been wanting to go to New York anyways. Perhaps I'll give him an e-mail, I've read from various folks on here that he does good work. I'll chat with my local jeweller too and see if that price can be reduced a bit.

Thanks all!

 

[chrono]

IDJ in NY is another good option.

 

[Euphony]

Thanks for the welcome from folks!

If you are in Halifax, and want to keep the stone local, I might be able to help you. There are two custom shops I would trust in that city, so if you are talking with one of them already, I can give you the name of their competition so you can at least shop around. (I have never worked for either of them, but I was educated in Halifax, and know the reputable shops.) I don't want to cross any lines, but if you want the info, feel free to message me. There are a lack of good stone setters in the region for sure, so you might consider the option of sending it somewhere. I might try Toronto before sending it across the border. But I am not impartial on that front as that is the region I work in.

 

[tara3056]

DanielM is in Salem, Massachusetts, just so you know, not NYC. But ID Jewelry in NYC *would* be another good place to contact.

I won't lie, my mind is BOGGLING at the idea of almost 4k on that simple platinum setting. Just completely befuddled. I suspect some jewelers - well-respected ones, too - would laugh at that price and wonder what on earth your jeweler is possibly thinking.

Getting a ring made elsewhere but sized locally won't be any problem at all. If you don't feel comfortable shipping your Alex, I would imagine a jeweler like IDJ or DanielM could make the ring to your spec and you could have it set locally. You'd have to pay a setting fee (anywhere from $50-150), but that could be a worthwhile option. I say that because your setting is prong-set, so it's usually possible to get a very good fit even if they make it without your stone in hand. (If it were a bezel setting, no way.)

 

[tara3056]

Heck, even LEON MEGE makes custom, diamond-encrusted platinum settings for that price! I know because I got a quote from him once!

Ok, really, I'm stopping now.

 

[Euphony]

I forgot to add on the subject of nickel in palladium alloyed white gold- there isn't any directly, and shouldn't be indirectly either, but I was told that there is a chance of cross-contamination. If you are in Europe where nickel is not used as an alloy you are safe. Platinum is always kept seperate. You don't even use the same investment as for gold. I don't want to knock palladium alloyed gold, but if your allergy to nickle was severe, I wouldn't risk it.

 

[minousbijoux]

Euphony: since there is no ability to message on PS, but members in the trade are allowed to have an affiliation on their avatar (I might be using the wrong words, but I think you hopefully get the gist), you could look up the proper way and then add your info that way so Darkwind can contact you?

 

[Euphony]

Thank you, minousbijoux! I didn't realize that there was no message function. I have added my webpage in my info so that Darkwind can reach me if he so chooses, as that seems relatively discreet. Otherwise, I am really here for the education that the forum provides. I know a lot about metal, but am woefully under-educated in gems and am on the hunt for a badass gem for my own engagement ring. I really appreciate the knowledge of you hardcore gemophiles.

 

[minousbijoux]

Thank you, minousbijoux! I didn't realize that there was no message function. I have added my webpage in my info so that Darkwind can reach me if he so chooses, as that seems relatively discreet. Otherwise, I am really here for the education that the forum provides. I know a lot about metal, but am woefully under-educated in gems and am on the hunt for a badass gem for my own engagement ring. I really appreciate the knowledge of you hardcore gemophiles.

Well, then you are so in the right place

OP: in case its not obvious, click on his avatar and his info page will show up with his website.

 

[chloeishere]

I see some negative comments regarding palladium in this thread (no offense taken, to each their own), but just for reference, my engagement ring is 950 palladium, I have pretty severe nickel allergies (rhodium plating, nail polish on the back of a watch, etc will not prevent a reaction), and I do not have any issue at all with the ring and have not had any sort of allergic reaction. I considered 14k or 18k palladium white gold (because it is supposed to be nickel free-- this is the first I've heard that there may be trace amounts of nickel) but I prefer the look of plain palladium to unplated palladium white gold, and it's a bit less expensive.

I also think palladium looks similar to platinum (slightly grayer compared to a friend's platinum set, but it's not a huge difference-- it does depend on the other metal in the alloy), and it's worn fine so far (I'm only 10 months in, but the band is textured and you can't see any wear-- though it has developed patina, which I like).

DanielM is very affordable for platinum, but he does not work in palladium or non-nickel white gold.

Congratulations on finding the alexandrite!

 

[Euphony]

I am sorry for the negative comments about palladium... It is more that if you are looking for white-white, then palladium is probably not your metal. From a working perspective all white metals are problematic and have casting issues to one degree or another, so you won't hear me extolling the virtues of any of them, even platinum. But I don't mean to insult palladium, as I love yellow gold and it breaks my heart how many people put it down. All metals have their beauty. I love stainless steel, so I am not a metal snob by any means, and actually like grey metals quite a bit.

I have no hard evidence about trace nickel in palladium white gold; I have just heard it from an older goldsmith. I regret posting that now, as I don't want to misrepresent heresay as absolute fact. Perhaps I can inquire a bit more into it before scaring people off of it. I have just heard that guaranteeing 100% nickel free from a facility that casts both alloys is not realistic, and certainly when it is sized there may be nickel in the solder. It will not matter for 99.9% of the population, but there are people who react to nickle with extreme blistering, not just irritation so trace amounts of nickel are still too much.

 

[chloeishere]

I am sorry for the negative comments about palladium... It is more that if you are looking for white-white, then palladium is probably not your metal. From a working perspective all white metals are problematic and have casting issues to one degree or another, so you won't hear me extolling the virtues of any of them, even platinum. But I don't mean to insult palladium, as I love yellow gold and it breaks my heart how many people put it down. All metals have their beauty. I love stainless steel, so I am not a metal snob by any means, and actually like grey metals quite a bit.

I have no hard evidence about trace nickel in palladium white gold; I have just heard it from an older goldsmith. I regret posting that now, as I don't want to misrepresent heresay as absolute fact. Perhaps I can inquire a bit more into it before scaring people off of it. I have just heard that guaranteeing 100% nickel free from a facility that casts both alloys is not realistic, and certainly when it is sized there may be nickel in the solder. It will not matter for 99.9% of the population, but there are people who react to nickle with extreme blistering, not just irritation so trace amounts of nickel are still too much.

Thank you for the kind comment Euphony, but there was genuinely no offense taken! I know there are people who are very sensitive to small changes in jewelry appearance on here, and their preferences are definitely no less valid than mine. Gray is an excellent color for my coloring, so I think that's part of why I like palladium so much-- but it does look very dark when compared to a silver band (though I don't think it looks dark unless compared/ set next to other, whiter metals-- again, though, it might bother me more if gray was an unflattering color for my skintone). It would look quite light compared to titanium, niobium, or stainless, but is probably the darkest of "precious" white metals.

The nickel contamination issue is a pickle-- I'm curious about it now. I'm guessing it is very trace if it's found at all and probably only an issue outside Europe... but even with avoiding nickel as much as reasonably possible, my reactions keep getting more and more severe (I accidentally exposed myself to a nickel containing metal, coated the offending item with nail polish which used to work perfectly when I was a kid, and had an equally bad reaction with about a quarter of the time worn and despite the protective coating a month later). I'd think it would be an issue for daily wear in an engagement ring, if someone has an allergy... but if so, I feel like I'd probably have heard something about it already (I researched extensively on palladium/ palladium white gold/ platinum before choosing a metal).

You are definitely right that palladium is not a good metal choice for white-white (probably rhodium plated white gold is your best bet if you can tolerate it/ don't have nickel issues). I don't think rhodium plating sticks well to palladium or platinum, but I'm not sure if it's practical or long lasting to rhodium plate a 14k or 18k palladium white gold alloy? Does anyone know? Maybe some of the metalsmiths in the thread?

 

[Darkwind]

Up early today, chatted with Euphony and going to start exploring some more local options as well as danielM. Thanks for the feedback everyone, will update when I learn more or whip up additional newbie questions