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Asscher experts - selection advice

So are you ready to buy now? Because specific stone recommendations are not going to matter if you aren't since they might be gone in a month or whenever you are ready to buy.

I like asschers very much. I think the downside of them is that they face up small for their weight. I would only get one if you plan to get a halo setting. That is the type setting that complements them the most, in my opinion, and it makes up for the size somewhat. Gypsy has a nice halo on hers, and I have a 1 ct asscher that I bought to fit a specific setting. Mine came from GOG, and the video Jon made for me is one of the most helpful things I have ever had in helping me know how to pick great asschers. A couple are good and a couple are great, so it is relatively easy to spot great ones other than they are more scarce.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7SBfNGxTFE&list=UUEV7slr-i-VduBBnfv9MxhA&index=2

The only cushions I like as well as asschers would be antique cushions like GOG's AVCs or Victor Canera's antique cushions. Cushions are not square, though, so if she really likes square, stick with an asscher (in a halo, please).
 
Steven Kirsch asccher halo

stevenkirschasscherhalo.jpg
 
diamondseeker2006|1460817225|4019993 said:
So are you ready to buy now? Because specific stone recommendations are not going to matter if you aren't since they might be gone in a month or whenever you are ready to buy.

I like asschers very much. I think the downside of them is that they face up small for their weight. I would only get one if you plan to get a halo setting. That is the type setting that complements them the most, in my opinion, and it makes up for the size somewhat. Gypsy has a nice halo on hers, and I have a 1 ct asscher that I bought to fit a specific setting. Mine came from GOG, and the video Jon made for me is one of the most helpful things I have ever had in helping me know how to pick great asschers. A couple are good and a couple are great, so it is relatively easy to spot great ones other than they are more scarce.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7SBfNGxTFE&list=UUEV7slr-i-VduBBnfv9MxhA&index=2

The only cushions I like as well as asschers would be antique cushions like GOG's AVCs or Victor Canera's antique cushions. Cushions are not square, though, so if she really likes square, stick with an asscher (in a halo, please).
Click to expand...

OP - just to clarify, there are true-square cushions but they can be harder to find than off-square or rectangle cushions... but they are out there if that is what you/GF desires.

[DS - are you referring to the rounded corners of cushions in saying cushions are not square? If so, the cut-corners of asschers also result in not-squares...]
 
I realize there are some cushions with straighter sides (particularly modern ones), but I think the definition of cushion implies a pillowy shape (many antique cushions, for example) and those are the most attractive cushions, in my opinion. An asscher is a square with cut corners. I just think if she mainly is familiar with rounds and princess and has said she likes square stones (and has been shown an asscher and liked it), I think a cushion would be a risk unless she was shown some first. And we'd need to show him some well cut ones because they are hard to find as well!
 
Actually there are a lot of great, square, high performance generic modern cushions out there right now. I don't think it's a risk at all. The spread is better than asschers and instead of drawing your eye in the brilliant faceting makes the stone appear larger. I have seen it comparing my own asscher to a cushion of the same size.

But the fact is that it is all personal preferences and WE are not the people whose preferences matter. She is. So I highly suggest the OP show her rings like the Novo with modern cushions and see if she likes them.

And even if HE prefers asschers, if she likes cushions then that is what he should frankly focus on.
 
diamondseeker2006|1460817225|4019993 said:
So are you ready to buy now? Because specific stone recommendations are not going to matter if you aren't since they might be gone in a month or whenever you are ready to buy.

I like asschers very much. I think the downside of them is that they face up small for their weight. I would only get one if you plan to get a halo setting. That is the type setting that complements them the most, in my opinion, and it makes up for the size somewhat. Gypsy has a nice halo on hers, and I have a 1 ct asscher that I bought to fit a specific setting. Mine came from GOG, and the video Jon made for me is one of the most helpful things I have ever had in helping me know how to pick great asschers. A couple are good and a couple are great, so it is relatively easy to spot great ones other than they are more scarce.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7SBfNGxTFE&list=UUEV7slr-i-VduBBnfv9MxhA&index=2

The only cushions I like as well as asschers would be antique cushions like GOG's AVCs or Victor Canera's antique cushions. Cushions are not square, though, so if she really likes square, stick with an asscher (in a halo, please).
Click to expand...

Good question. I am ready to buy and the funds have been provisioned for, but I'm also not in a rush to buy - if that makes sense? Basically, I'm happy to buy it if I can find a stone I really like and the AUD doesn't go through a crazy depreciation.

Hopefully I haven't confused anyone? That's the main reason I'm trying to establish a good reference point/baseline - so I can look for the 'perfect' stone and buy it once I find it. The other thing influence the decision beyond this is the exchange rate, if the Australian dollar starts doing very well then I'll buy as well, as I can get much more for the budget I have in place.

It's not going to be a halo setting, it's probably going to be this one (but obviously reshaped for the Asscher): http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/platinum-pave-set-swirl-ae100-by-danhov-designer-engagement-ring-item-16581.. Unless there are serious objections, she has given very positive feedback on this one, except that it isn't perfectly symmetrical.

Do you have a link to the video or is it one of Jon's existing ones in the eduction section?
 
diamondseeker2006|1460821234|4020014 said:
Steven Kirsch asccher halo
Click to expand...

Thanks, I actually don't mind this one - might get it floated to her and see how she reacts.

I haven't found a lot of Asscher halo settings that I liked because most of them create this box like effect with the horizontal line running around the 4 prongs - not sure if that makes sense? I don't like the grid/box effect and I suspect she won't too.
 
Gypsy|1460847928|4020189 said:
But the fact is that it is all personal preferences and WE are not the people whose preferences matter. She is. So I highly suggest the OP show her rings like the Novo with modern cushions and see if she likes them.
Click to expand...

I'll be (or rather her friend) will show her an example of the novo on the Tiff's website - looking at the images, she probably won't like it because it isn't perfectly square, so I'll need to find a good example first.
 
Buy her a Octavia!...of course I'm biased.. :silenced: :wink2:
 
 
Hi everyone, Need expert advice here please! I just ordered an asscher online, and I'm freaking out about whether or not this was a wise choice. I know it faces up slightly small, but I'm ok with that considering the price was much lower than others with these specs. But I'm wondering if that's because there is something wrong with the rock? Please check out the pic and let me know if you see any red flags. I really appreciate it! This forum has been so helpful. :)

1.10-Carat Asscher Cut Diamond
$5,034
Price per carat $4,576
Carat weight 1.10
Shape Asscher
Cut Very Good
Color F
Clarity VS1
Length/width ratio 1.01
Depth % 68.4%
Table % 64.0%
Polish Excellent
Symmetry Excellent
Girdle Thick to Very Thick
Culet None
Fluorescence None
Measurements 5.67 x 5.63 x 3.85 mm

asscher_0.jpg
 
lizzy917|1460934497|4020585 said:
Hi everyone, Need expert advice here please! I just ordered an asscher online, and I'm freaking out about whether or not this was a wise choice. I know it faces up slightly small, but I'm ok with that considering the price was much lower than others with these specs. But I'm wondering if that's because there is something wrong with the rock? Please check out the pic and let me know if you see any red flags. I really appreciate it! This forum has been so helpful. :)

1.10-Carat Asscher Cut Diamond
$5,034
Price per carat $4,576
Carat weight 1.10
Shape Asscher
Cut Very Good
Color F
Clarity VS1
Length/width ratio 1.01
Depth % 68.4%
Table % 64.0%
Polish Excellent
Symmetry Excellent
Girdle Thick to Very Thick
Culet None
Fluorescence None
Measurements 5.67 x 5.63 x 3.85 mm

asscher_0.jpg
Click to expand...


1. Please start your own thread. It is impolite to hijack an active thread someone is still getting advice on their purchase for.

2. Stone looks pretty. There is nothing about it that is bad from the stats or the picture. The spread is a bit below average for a 1 carat asscher and literally just over minimally acceptable. So that's probably why it is discounted because it's facing up at 5.6mm and you generally want 5.8-6.0 in a one carat asscher if you can get it. But spread issues are VERY common with asschers.

3. Can you get an ASET (and post it in your new thread)?
 
I would say many nice 1 ct asschers are 5.6mm, so I would not rule it out. My 1 ct asscher is an excellent cut and is 5.6mm.
 
Gypsy|1460788812|4019937 said:
Here's one of the asscher threads I was referencing: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/honest-thoughts-by-asscher-owners.44962/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/honest-thoughts-by-asscher-owners.44962/[/URL]

Wallermama did eventually have her rings replaced for some reason (theft?? some sort of loss, and I don't recall) and she didn't pick an asscher again.

I doubt I would pick one again either if I lost or had my rings stolen. Being a general diamond lover I would probably just go with the nicest overall ring I could get for my budget that looked good on my hand (squares and rectangles look best on my hands).
Click to expand...

Gypsy, thank you for following up with that link, it is very enlightening and helps me have more realistic expectations of how an asscher will perform with daily use!

i hope this is not too off-topic, but regarding asschers having notoriously less spread per carat compared to cushions, does this change as the carat weight increases? using the pricescope search function, i've noticed larger cushions and larger asschers start to approach similar dimensions in the 4-5 ctw range, where they are facing up more similarly, at least as far as the dimensions are concerned. is that just a coincidence based on inventory now?

to clarify-- i do see that you can achieve similar dimensions with a smaller cushion, but it is almost like the cushions cap-out, or reach a plateau, where asschers can catch up, and by the time you are looking at 5ctw asschers and cushions, they have similar dimensions?
 
Wyer|1460870855|4020320 said:
diamondseeker2006|1460817225|4019993 said:
So are you ready to buy now? Because specific stone recommendations are not going to matter if you aren't since they might be gone in a month or whenever you are ready to buy.

I like asschers very much. I think the downside of them is that they face up small for their weight. I would only get one if you plan to get a halo setting. That is the type setting that complements them the most, in my opinion, and it makes up for the size somewhat. Gypsy has a nice halo on hers, and I have a 1 ct asscher that I bought to fit a specific setting. Mine came from GOG, and the video Jon made for me is one of the most helpful things I have ever had in helping me know how to pick great asschers. A couple are good and a couple are great, so it is relatively easy to spot great ones other than they are more scarce.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7SBfNGxTFE&list=UUEV7slr-i-VduBBnfv9MxhA&index=2

The only cushions I like as well as asschers would be antique cushions like GOG's AVCs or Victor Canera's antique cushions. Cushions are not square, though, so if she really likes square, stick with an asscher (in a halo, please).
Click to expand...

Good question. I am ready to buy and the funds have been provisioned for, but I'm also not in a rush to buy - if that makes sense? Basically, I'm happy to buy it if I can find a stone I really like and the AUD doesn't go through a crazy depreciation.

Hopefully I haven't confused anyone? That's the main reason I'm trying to establish a good reference point/baseline - so I can look for the 'perfect' stone and buy it once I find it. The other thing influence the decision beyond this is the exchange rate, if the Australian dollar starts doing very well then I'll buy as well, as I can get much more for the budget I have in place.

It's not going to be a halo setting, it's probably going to be this one (but obviously reshaped for the Asscher): http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/platinum-pave-set-swirl-ae100-by-danhov-designer-engagement-ring-item-16581..... Unless there are serious objections, she has given very positive feedback on this one, except that it isn't perfectly symmetrical.

Do you have a link to the video or is it one of Jon's existing ones in the eduction section?
Click to expand...

The link to the youtube video is in my post above. Just click on it.

I highly advise against the Danhov setting. The design itself is most pleasing with a round stone and I do not see it with an asscher at all. But the main reason I recommend against it is that it is a fragile ring and there would be a lot of danger in whacking that high set stone and either cracking it or actually losing the stone if the prongs were hit. The Steven Kirsch setting is vastly superior and will not cost a great deal more than the Danhov. I would do the SK setting with whatever shape stone you end up buying.

As I said before, I would show her cushions before changing shapes. She needs to see different shaped stones in halo settings because that changes the look so much. This is what I'd show her because it has round, cushion, oval, and asscher halos all on one page:

http://www.stevenkirsch.com/the-evidence/

Three pages of halo settings by Victor Canera, the other pave master that is very well liked by forum members:

https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement?type[0]=halo&page=1

I can't get Victor's link to post fully, so you'll have to copy and paste it.
 
diamondseeker2006|1460991753|4020790 said:
Wyer|1460870855|4020320 said:
The link to the youtube video is in my post above. Just click on it.

I highly advise against the Danhov setting. The design itself is most pleasing with a round stone and I do not see it with an asscher at all. But the main reason I recommend against it is that it is a fragile ring and there would be a lot of danger in whacking that high set stone and either cracking it or actually losing the stone if the prongs were hit. The Steven Kirsch setting is vastly superior and will not cost a great deal more than the Danhov. I would do the SK setting with whatever shape stone you end up buying.

As I said before, I would show her cushions before changing shapes. She needs to see different shaped stones in halo settings because that changes the look so much. This is what I'd show her because it has round, cushion, oval, and asscher halos all on one page:

http://www.stevenkirsch.com/the-evidence/

Three pages of halo settings by Victor Canera, the other pave master that is very well liked by forum members:

https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement?type[0]=halo&page=1

I can't get Victor's link to post fully, so you'll have to copy and paste it.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Sorry, not even sure how I missed that link - I think I was discretely replying from my phone.

She's seen the Danhov setting with an asscher and she likes it (though they were CAD photos so they look better than the JA example, but unfortunately there aren't many other images to look at). Appreciate the issue with the high setting, which I'm aware of, but I'll let her decide - just trying to slowly get her to see the different images.




I don't mind the SK setting, but will depend on what she thinks - not sure about the Victor halos, I've had a look at some of them and it's similar to the other settings I've browsed (where there is like a grid like box effect around the prongs when viewed side on).

ae100-as__1_0.jpg

ae100-as-4__1_0.jpg
 
That setting is a disaster waiting to happen. WOW.
 
Thank you for that confirmation, Gypsy!

Wyer, many women just don't know about setting durability and dangers. We are just trying to warn you strongly against it. She needs to know it is a highly risky setting that likely will not last and could result in the loss or damage of her diamond. Best to get that ruled out up front. Pave settings are somewhat fragile, period, but that one is absolutely not a long term, daily wear ring. Besides the height and way the center stone is set, that shank (band) is only 1.6mm. We've heard of shanks getting bent out of shape just from normal wear and grasping things. 1.8-2mm is the thinnest a pave shank should be and really even plain shanks.
 
I'm just imagining running my hand through my hair with that setting. Seriously. It would snag the crap out of my hair and then, I'd pull and next thing you know the thing would be bent or have a stress point.

Not good. Not just impractical but fantastically so.

If it were me and I wanted a design like that I'd go for this one: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/7b/5c/dd/7b5cdd66106c9cab2474e2a8898bcd58.jpg Which is a Cartier design. And I've have Steven or Victor adapt it to a square, using the Danhov as inspiration, but making it much lower, much safer, and much stronger with hand forged fabrication.
 
Thanks Gypsy and diamondseeker for the advice, I'll think about and see where we get to.

I think the trouble is, this was a setting we both found agreeable - it's going to be a pretty difficult task finding another one. I'll have to do more searching, but at one stage I was considering ditching the Asscher cut because I didn't like any of the settings and I didn't think she would like them. However, as she has confirmed she wants a square shaped diamond (don't know if it's a cushion or asscher and probably won't find out for at least a few days), I'll need to go on the hunt for more settings.

I think the reason she is sold about the Danhov is because:
1. it's unusual/unique
2. it's thin
3. she loves the pave setting

With (2) I think she could probably go without, as her Tiffany silver rings vary from being very thin to very thick, but I think in general she wants a thin band because she has slender fingers and it seems quite contemporary.

It's starting to become harder and harder to figure this out without directly asking her and using feedback from her friends!

Finally, is the setting really that disastrous if she just has a desk job? E.g. she will have to type on a keyboard, but there isn't going to be that much daily activity. Also, I'm surprised that the Danhov is such a shocker given the accolades the setting was given?

I'll readily admit I've barely done any reading on settings, apart from searching for images of how they look - so maybe that's where the downfall is from, though I was aware of issues around the height of the setting.
 
Gypsy,
Thank you so much for the advice, and I sincerely apologize if I came off as impolite! First-time poster here and I was not aware of the etiquette (oops!) - I thought this was a generic thread for selection advice :doh:. I'll try to get the ASET and start a new thread. Cheers!
 
So. Here are some threads about pave:

Why pave is fragile: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/which-online-retailer-for-a-custom-setting.203660/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/which-online-retailer-for-a-custom-setting.203660/[/URL]
Why we recommend handforging for pave:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/what-do-you-all-think-of-this-stone.219137/page-2#post-3981481#p3981481']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/what-do-you-all-think-of-this-stone.219137/page-2#post-3981481#p3981481[/URL]

You have a good budget. I don't see why you can't just ask Steven or Victor to use that setting as inspiration and come up with a stronger, less high version that includes the swirl and keeps the shank to 1.8-2mm. It will be custom made for her and yes it is risky with a desk job. As I mentioned above. I wouldn't run my fingers through my hair with that setting.

As for thin. Too thin means not durable. Especially with pave (you'll understand better once you've read those links).

Asschers are hard to find nice settings for. But as DS said, they look good in halos.
 
lizzy917|1461047778|4021036 said:
Gypsy,
Thank you so much for the advice, and I sincerely apologize if I came off as impolite! First-time poster here and I was not aware of the etiquette (oops!) - I thought this was a generic thread for selection advice :doh:. I'll try to get the ASET and start a new thread. Cheers!
Click to expand...


NP. Etiquette is different from site to site. :-) Looking forward to your thread. :wavey:
 
@ Gypsy,

I'll have to see how I coordinate a ring from Steven or Victor with the vendor I go with, whether it's JA or GOG - but I'll worry about the logistics later.

I think she would be happy with a halo, as that was our original intention, it's just the side profile that we aren't too fond of. So something like the SK setting above works, what about this one from Danhov: http://www.danhov.com/view-all-374/danhov-classico-knife-edge-asscher-engagement-ring-cl102-as

However, it doesn't have a pave setting, which she seems to prefer. Also, I thought the Danhov's were also hand forged, I'll have to read up a bit more on Steven and Victor. There is no reason we have to go with the Danhov, it was just shown to her because I couldn't find designers I liked and I stumbled across them as they won some design awards.

----

Also, thanks to everyone that has commented - appreciate I'm asking a lot of stupid questions, but it's a nice learning curve for me.
 
Irony.

The new Danhov setting you linked to is similar to my halo-- by Steven Kirsch. Which predates that one by several years.

But mine is nicer. The halo has a 20 degree tilt and the pave is impeccable. The shank is 2mm on mine. The halo is made of 1/2 pointers. And the stone is 5.86x5.89mm. Just for reference.

Layla%20Steven%20Reset%20close%20up_0.jpg
Layla%20Steven%20Reset_0.jpg
DSCN0698.jpg
gypsy-halo-ring-ps-gtg-2012.jpg
DSCN0699_0.jpg

I believe Danhov casts most of their settings. I could be wrong.

You aren't asking any stupid questions. You are asking good ones. It is a steep learning curve.

I think your lady would prefer a pave shank, not a plain shank, like my halo has.
 
Gypsy said:
Irony.

The new Danhov setting you linked to is similar to my halo-- by Steven Kirsch. Which predates that one by several years.

But mine is nicer. The halo has a 20 degree tilt and the pave is impeccable. The shank is 2mm on mine. The halo is made of 1/2 pointers. And the stone is 5.86x5.89mm. Just for reference.

Layla%20Steven%20Reset%20close%20up_0.jpg
Layla%20Steven%20Reset_0.jpg
DSCN0698.jpg
gypsy-halo-ring-ps-gtg-2012.jpg
DSCN0699_0.jpg

I believe Danhov casts most of their settings. I could be wrong.

You aren't asking any stupid questions. You are asking good ones. It is a steep learning curve.

I think your lady would prefer a pave shank, not a plain shank, like my halo has.
Click to expand...
That's a beautiful setting, Gypsy.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
Gypsy|1461049538|4021048 said:
I believe Danhov casts most of their settings. I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

According to the website, the rings are handcrafted or hand assembled with no molds (it was one of the differentiators they were spruiking when I was reading about them) - though that suggests that some styles (presumably the cheaper might not be handforged just hand assembled). The swirl would have to be hand forged given how thin it is as well, does that give it anymore merit or is it still a bad purchase? However, I'd be contacting them to confirm prior to any setting purchases.

I'm still not sold on Steven Kirsch, I was trying to find the warranty on their website and I could only see a cache page that talks to a 1 year warranty. In contrast Danhov provides a lifetime warranty (although not convenient given where I live and the requirement that the ring must be serviced by them).

As you can tell I'm still not over the Danhov setting, but I'll be exploring the other options. I'll need to do more digging myself, thanks for the links I'll try and show her, but I think our concern is around how the side profile looks rather than top down.
 
Actually, let me take the above a bit further, as I contacted Danhov since the rings are meant to be customised and they are very prompt.

If I were to increase the width of the ring, to say 2mm and also reduced the coverage of the pave (e.g. to that it doesn't end so low) would that change anything? Is the concern still going too centred around the the high setting of the diamond? I'm not sure if it could be lowered even if it were to be customised and I think it's actually a nice feature since it shows off the asscher without it any risk of it being lost in a halo.

Basically, is there anything you could suggest to make the ring salvageable or are you both (Gypsy and DS) adamant that I should be looking elsewhere. I could also probably get the ring made out of Palladium, though I was originally planning on going for Platinum - which means I can lower cost and afford to throw more into the customisation?

I think part of whether I go with Danhov will also be contingent on whether they are willing to respond to my question about returns/repairs. At the moment they just referred me to the lifetime warranty, which is an easy blanket statement that provides little assurance as to real world performance and problems.

---

Oh and I forgot to mention, lovely ring Gypsy - even if you prefer the Lucida!
 
Wyer said:
Thanks Gypsy and diamondseeker for the advice, I'll think about and see where we get to.

I think the trouble is, this was a setting we both found agreeable - it's going to be a pretty difficult task finding another one. I'll have to do more searching, but at one stage I was considering ditching the Asscher cut because I didn't like any of the settings and I didn't think she would like them. However, as she has confirmed she wants a square shaped diamond (don't know if it's a cushion or asscher and probably won't find out for at least a few days), I'll need to go on the hunt for more settings.

I think the reason she is sold about the Danhov is because:
1. it's unusual/unique
2. it's thin
3. she loves the pave setting

With (2) I think she could probably go without, as her Tiffany silver rings vary from being very thin to very thick, but I think in general she wants a thin band because she has slender fingers and it seems quite contemporary.

It's starting to become harder and harder to figure this out without directly asking her and using feedback from her friends!

Finally, is the setting really that disastrous if she just has a desk job? E.g. she will have to type on a keyboard, but there isn't going to be that much daily activity. Also, I'm surprised that the Danhov is such a shocker given the accolades the setting was given?

I'll readily admit I've barely done any reading on settings, apart from searching for images of how they look - so maybe that's where the downfall is from, though I was aware of issues around the height of the setting.
Click to expand...

just had to comment on this. My original e-ring was a pretty high setting (nowhere NEAR the Danhov) and though i have a desk job, i hit that sucker on so many different things. Fortunately it was a small diamond with rather large prongs and i never damaged the diamond itself but i cracked several of the baugettes on the setting. The ring itself was a pretty thick bypass setting, I can't imagine how much damage i'd have done on a thinner ring. My upgrade is a lower setting, larger diamond and i have two sided pave a little more than halfway around the band. i have also hit this ring on things a few times and that's with being careful! I take it off as soon as i get home and never wear it while cleaning, gardening, etc. I only put it back on when i leave the house.

Point is, it's very easy to accidentally bang a ring on something even with normal wear or sitting at a desk job. I was changing the toner in my printer last week and hit the side of the printer when i lost my grip on something. I have opened a door and the bottom of my ring caught on something (thank goodness i don't have full pave all the way around my ring!) and if my ring had been really thin, i imagine it could have bent it. A super dainty and delicate ring like that is not meant for every day use. It's meant to ocassionally pull out of the jewelry box and wear to dinner or to an event.
 
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