Help me with my setting for my old mine

[oldcutclubmember]

Here is another curveball. Are you completely set on a solitaire? Have you considered a 3 stone with side stones HIGH in color for a two tone 3 stone?

 

[Agnasia]

Lots of amazing ideas for you to consider for your beautiful OMC!

I’m liking setting option 1, but with your idea of engraving rather than melee and instead of two tone to consider all of it in unplated white gold. I haven’t used it myself, but I do have a white gold ring I have never replated and I like the softness of the colour, which could look gorgeous with your white facing diamond.

 

[Mjay]

Here is another curveball. Are you completely set on a solitaire? Have you considered a 3 stone with side stones HIGH in color for a two tone 3 stone?

Yes and no. I’d possibly consider a chunky halo but I just don’t like 3 stones. I totally get where your going with that and appreciate the suggestion.

 

[Mjay]

So I just realized that I do have unplated white gold (well I’m assuming it’s unplated) old antique 18k white band.

 

[Mjay]

Trying to show some color. Next to various pieces. Antique 14k yellow chain, platinum band, plat and 18k yellow matte finish band.

 

[emmy12]

Trying to show some color. Next to various pieces. Antique 14k yellow chain, platinum band, plat and 18k yellow matte finish band.

I have to say that the yellow gold beside it seems to make it glow more to my eyes <3 ... I really like @Cerulean's new sunshine ST in the yellow gold bezel ring too, so that may be biasing my opinion.

The unplated antique white looks really nice too.

I saw the video that Alex posted and it looked far more yellow and tinted in those videos than it does in your pictures.

The contrast you're talking about might work, but if you're going to do platinum and a pave band route (or a halo), I'd make sure side melee is very high colour and extremely white so that the tint of the U-V is set off by contrasting so much.

Pulled some other images from EraGem for the contrast and comparison with center stones ranging from N to UV. It's wild how much the tint of the center stones vary between their stones that are graded the same.


UV in 14kt yellow



OP in 18kt white (antique, unplated?)


OP, 2ct radiant in 14kt yellow


N in platinum with F-G melee


QR in platnium

 

[distracts]

Idea number 2:

I’m obsessed with Victor Barbone designs. I showed my husband some of their designs last night and he fell in love with the Hunter setting and I totally agree. I was thinking of creating a variation of the hunter setting but set a bit higher with a more intricate basket. My concerns are: 1- is it different enough from cleone (my OMC in Megan thorne setting) 2- I was hoping to go high polish and not brushed or matte. Would this bezel style look ok polished? 3- DK Is amazing but I’m concerned that he won’t be able to execute the fine milgrain to my satisfaction. And all of the pieces I’ve seen from him the milgrain is much chunkier.

This milgrain was done by DK's bench though idk which one - it is very fine. It is hand-applied and not cast. The milgrain on the example ring you posted looks mostly worn away but of around the same size.



I would definitely go with yellow head and white metal shank if you want to play up the color. I think if you go all yellow or all white you risk the color getting downplayed either way. I have seen even S-T stones look very, very yellow in YG bezels with cups so I am sure yours will be able to as well.

I wouldn't contemplate a bezel until you've foiled-wrapped the diamond to make sure the bezel won't impair light performance too much. The OECs can be tricky and sometimes bezels absolutely kill them.

 

[Mjay]

I have to say that the yellow gold beside it seems to make it glow more to my eyes <3 ... I really like @Cerulean's new sunshine ST in the yellow gold bezel ring too, so that may be biasing my opinion.

The unplated antique white looks really nice too.

I saw the video that Alex posted and it looked far more yellow and tinted in those videos than it does in your pictures.

The contrast you're talking about might work, but if you're going to do platinum and a pave band route (or a halo), I'd make sure side melee is very high colour and extremely white so that the tint of the U-V is set off by contrasting so much.

Pulled some other images from EraGem for the contrast and comparison with center stones ranging from N to UV. It's wild how much the tint of the center stones vary between their stones that are graded the same.


UV in 14kt yellow



OP in 18kt white (antique, unplated?)


OP, 2ct radiant in 14kt yellow


N in platinum with F-G melee


QR in platnium

I absolutely love her ring to! It’s incredible! I am definitely considering a similar overall profile but with milgrain and plain or fully engraved shank. I’m very surprised by how light it is facing up. I’ve played with it in so many lighting conditions and I’m just not seeing the warmth that I was expecting from a UV. I think it’s definitely an old cut thing- they always face up so much whiter. Thank you for sharing those pics from era gem! I really love the contrast! I was actually looking at era gem the other day as well and I came across a UV in platinum that looked so yellow. I agree that it is so crazy how much diamonds of the same color grade can vary so much. Mine is definitely very tinted face down. I think if I decide to go with the contrast option than I need to talk to DK and see what he thinks. Super white single cut melee sounds like the ticket.

 

[Mjay]

This milgrain was done by DK's bench though idk which one - it is very fine. It is hand-applied and not cast. The milgrain on the example ring you posted looks mostly worn away but of around the same size.



I would definitely go with yellow head and white metal shank if you want to play up the color. I think if you go all yellow or all white you risk the color getting downplayed either way. I have seen even S-T stones look very, very yellow in YG bezels with cups so I am sure yours will be able to as well.

I wouldn't contemplate a bezel until you've foiled-wrapped the diamond to make sure the bezel won't impair light performance too much. The OECs can be tricky and sometimes bezels absolutely kill them.

Thank you! That milgrain definitely looks much better in your photo than in DKs glamour shots. I’m glad you posted that. It makes me feel better. I’m going to foil wrap my diamond tomorrow and see what I think.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Number 3 for me. I think the bezel in number 2 is a bit too heavy, but I do like option 1 if you want some yellow gold.

This ^. I'm in total agreement with Austina. Number 2 is my least favorite for the reason mentioned above. While I like number 1, number 3 is just SO unique! I've never seen anything quite like it!! Beautiful stone, BTW.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Considering how white your stone faces up, may I suggest a curveball?

Setting option 1, but with the bezel in platinum and the band in YG with yellow melee.

I think that would be utterly magnificent.

Loving this idea as well!!

 

[Mjay]

This ^. I'm in total agreement with Austina. Number 2 is my least favorite for the reason mentioned above. While I like number 1, number 3 is just SO unique! I've never seen anything quite like it!! Beautiful stone, BTW.

Thank you! I think number 2 is out. Im still considering a thinner gold bezel though. I just reached out to the designer for number 3 to see if he will even work with my stone. That setting truly makes my heart sing but I’ve seen several members post that he is no longer setting outside stones. Hopefully I’ll hear back tomorrow or Friday.

 

[oldcutclubmember]

Thank you! I think number 2 is out. Im still considering a thinner gold bezel though. I just reached out to the designer for number 3 to see if he will even work with my stone. That setting truly makes my heart sing but I’ve seen several members post that he is no longer setting outside stones. Hopefully I’ll hear back tomorrow or Friday.

When I reached out about 5-6 months ago about an outside stone, they were willing to set it so keeping my fingers crossed for you that it’ll be an option. I decided not to go that route at the end (changed the whole setting entirely) and you may decide the same but it’s always nice to have options!

 

[Mjay]

When I reached out about 5-6 months ago about an outside stone, they were willing to set it so keeping my fingers crossed for you that it’ll be an option. I decided not to go that route at the end (changed the whole setting entirely) and you may decide the same but it’s always nice to have options!

That’s great to hear! Hoping for good news. I’m guessing it all depends on how busy he is at any given time. I’m still a bit nervous about it not being a bezel but I’m sure he will give me his professional opinion if it gets to that point

 

[AL12]

Trying to show some color. Next to various pieces. Antique 14k yellow chain, platinum band, plat and 18k yellow matte finish band.

After these new set of photos, now I think it looks better in YG! So glad you posted more. Your diamond looks to be facing up very white but at U/V I knew there *had* to be tint there somewhere and now I can really see it from these photos.

I feel like settings are always huge personal preference so I've refrained from commenting but... I know you love setting #3 but as one other person mentioned, I do feel like it's altering or hiding the shape of your OMC and OMCs have such a pretty shape it almost seems a shame. But whatever speaks to your heart (and eyes!)

 

[evergreen]

Here to say I think you should bezel in yellow gold - not to brag, but I felt like that the second I saw your stone. It's too warm to look its best in white metal, which will always look a little... awkward. Even if it doesn't show YELLOW when bezeled in yg, it will still *go*. I mean, look at this! https://www.instagram.com/p/CiGTJj5vhmE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

It's S/T. Dolly has a few other last-third-of-the-alphabet stones bezeled in yellow and I think it is a terrific look.

Then, I would definitely do a platinum shank for the weight and...coolth? of it. I love the way platinum feels. Simple bezel head and engraved shank, maybe? I'm sorry, I am home with a sick 3-year-old and didn't get to give the rest of the thread sufficient attention to see which way you're leaning, but still.

David Klass did the setting on the lower (emerald) bezel ring. It's sub-1-ct. I didn't ask for anything special about the milgrain, but it is very fine and lovely!

 

[Mjay]

Here to say I think you should bezel in yellow gold - not to brag, but I felt like that the second I saw your stone. It's too warm to look its best in white metal, which will always look a little... awkward. Even if it doesn't show YELLOW when bezeled in yg, it will still *go*. I mean, look at this! https://www.instagram.com/p/CiGTJj5vhmE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

It's S/T. Dolly has a few other last-third-of-the-alphabet stones bezeled in yellow and I think it is a terrific look.

Then, I would definitely do a platinum shank for the weight and...coolth? of it. I love the way platinum feels. Simple bezel head and engraved shank, maybe? I'm sorry, I am home with a sick 3-year-old and didn't get to give the rest of the thread sufficient attention to see which way you're leaning, but still.

David Klass did the setting on the lower (emerald) bezel ring. It's sub-1-ct. I didn't ask for anything special about the milgrain, but it is very fine and lovely!

Thank you so much! These are all stunning and that milgrain looks great! I actually came across something magnificent last night that Im super excited about and it is two tone with a yellow gold bezel!!!! I'll share once I've refined the details a bit.

 

[Mjay]

Just so everyone knows I did hear back from VC! They responded shortly after I sent the email. The quote was as expected for a hand forged setting. They then have a few hundred dollar setting fee for outside stones and then the buyer is responsible for all shipping and insurance costs (I'm assuming according to terms on their website but have not confirmed with them that I am responsible for insurance of my stone while its being set). I'm also in CA so tax rate is 9.5%. It would be a no brainer if I had purchased the stone from them, but after adding up all extra costs and logistics; I'm going to think on it and obtain quotes for my other options.

 

[emmy12]

Just so everyone knows I did hear back from VC! They responded shortly after I sent the email. The quote was as expected for a hand forged setting. They then have a few hundred dollar setting fee for outside stones and then the buyer is responsible for all shipping and insurance costs (I'm assuming according to terms on their website but have not confirmed with them that I am responsible for insurance of my stone while its being set). I'm also in CA so tax rate is 9.5%. It would be a no brainer if I had purchased the stone from them, but after adding up all extra costs and logistics; I'm going to think on it and obtain quotes for my other options.

Good to know these details and that he was willing to set your stone! Useful info for others in the future

Excited to see what you came up with. Yellow bezel yesssss. Agree with @evergreen that Dolly's bezel set yellow OEC's have been singing to me for long time. Every time she posts new ones I gaze longingly at the videos.

 

[Mjay]

Any thoughts or experiences with cupping? I emailed DK and he said the best way to make my stone as yellow as possible is a solid yellow (preferably 22k) gold cup. Open on the bottom. He said a partial cup could help but obviously not as effective as a full cup. I saw another thread on here where he cupped an OP colored marquise. I turned the stone a lovely light yellow and it looked incredible. Obviously my concerns are cleaning and affecting the light performance of my stone. I have yet to see a cup on an old cut other than the ring I posted on idea 1. I wrapped my stone in aluminum foil today and it still looks fantastic. I’m not worried at all about bezeling it but still slightly hesitant about the cup. I might start another thread on this specific topic but thought I’d continue here first.

 

[elizat]

Any thoughts or experiences with cupping? I emailed DK and he said the best way to make my stone as yellow as possible is a solid yellow (preferably 22k) gold cup. Open on the bottom. He said a partial cup could help but obviously not as effective as a full cup. I saw another thread on here where he cupped an OP colored marquise. I turned the stone a lovely light yellow and it looked incredible. Obviously my concerns are cleaning and affecting the light performance of my stone. I have yet to see a cup on an old cut other than the ring I posted on idea 1. I wrapped my stone in aluminum foil today and it still looks fantastic. I’m not worried at all about bezeling it but still slightly hesitant about the cup. I might start another thread on this specific topic but thought I’d continue here first.

You need an a'jour on the back for cleaning if he's going to do a full cup and do a closed back. Are you thinking of a closed back with a full cup or open back? I have earrings with that if you want to see what it might look like on a collet setting.

 

[distracts]

Any thoughts or experiences with cupping? I emailed DK and he said the best way to make my stone as yellow as possible is a solid yellow (preferably 22k) gold cup. Open on the bottom. He said a partial cup could help but obviously not as effective as a full cup. I saw another thread on here where he cupped an OP colored marquise. I turned the stone a lovely light yellow and it looked incredible. Obviously my concerns are cleaning and affecting the light performance of my stone. I have yet to see a cup on an old cut other than the ring I posted on idea 1. I wrapped my stone in aluminum foil today and it still looks fantastic. I’m not worried at all about bezeling it but still slightly hesitant about the cup. I might start another thread on this specific topic but thought I’d continue here first.

I would ask him about your concerns re: cleaning. I've had cleaning concerns about rings before that he was able to address.

 

[Cerulean]

My eyes really gravitate towards the YG, she sings next to it. But agree with other comments - wrap it in foil or something to see how it performs

 

[Rfisher]

See if your local craft store has believable gold-color foil for you to buy and play with wrapping your stone with it.
You’ll be able to approximate how much of that yellow gold color will come up through your stone through the pavilion.

You can then basically mock up a fully closed cup, a semi closed cup, and maybe even if you get super creative- openings on the sides of the gallery but a solid ‘plate’ under the stone.

 

[Mjay]

You need an a'jour on the back for cleaning if he's going to do a full cup and do a closed back. Are you thinking of a closed back with a full cup or open back? I have earrings with that if you want to see what it might look like on a collet setting.

I would love to see your earrings. He said a solid cup that is open on the bottom would be best to enhance the yellow. I’m not very familiar with cups so I don’t exactly know.

 

[Mjay]

See if your local craft store has believable gold-color foil for you to buy and play with wrapping your stone with it.
You’ll be able to approximate how much of that yellow gold color will come up through your stone through the pavilion.

Thank you! That’s the plan! I couldn’t find any at target today but the craft store is a fantastic idea. I’ll look tomorrow

 

[Mjay]

Threw her into a cup of gold wrapping paper. Definitely made a difference in poor indoor lighting (6pm. Shutters closed. Only small ceiling fan light) but she still doesn’t look yellow enough to me in the also poor outdoor lighting (6pm shade). Will play with her again when the lighting is better but thus far I’m not seeing what I need to see to feel confident about a cup and white melee

 

[emmy12]

Nice idea with the wrapping paper! It's a pretty believable gold colour too. Admittedly when I read wrapping paper my brain said "candy wrapper" and there are so many chocolate bars that have gold foil wrappers (or maybe had...I haven't bought any in a while!)...caramilk and Ferrero rocher come to mind!

Also: don't you just hate it when those old cuts face up whiter than their grade?

 

[Mjay]

Nice idea with the wrapping paper! It's a pretty believable gold colour too. Admittedly when I read wrapping paper my brain said "candy wrapper" and there are so many chocolate bars that have gold foil wrappers (or maybe had...I haven't bought any in a while!)...caramilk and Ferrero rocher come to mind!

Also: don't you just hate it when those old cuts face up whiter than their grade?

Darn it now I want some chocolate! It faces up such a lovely color but gosh darn’t I was expecting yellow lol. She’s ruining all my plans with her lovely antique lace coloring.

 

[evergreen]

I think it looks lovely in the YG cup in both your photos.

With warmer diamonds in yellow gold, I either see a white diamond in yellow gold, or a light yellow diamond in yellow gold. Neither bothers me! Seeing a yellowish diamond in white metals does bother me, though, unless it's made "intentional" by surrounding with very white diamonds, for example. It looks like it's trying to fit into a situation that doesn't really work for it, trying to be a white diamond when it's not. Like before I accepted my post-pregnancy self was no longer going to fit into my pre-pregnancy clothes... now that I am in clothes that fit, I am happy and feel my best.