Would you sacrifice colour in an OEC to maximise size?

[lulu_ma]

I think for many of us here on PS, “forever” (in terms of jewelry) is loosely translated to “for now”. That doesn’t mean you won’t absolutely love it. You’ve put so much of yourself into this project that I honestly think you will. But you’ve learned a ton, too and with that comes the thirst for more of the excitement and challenge of the next project or hunt.

This ring will be one you will love forever because it will be so personal to you. But will it always be the one on your left ring finger? Only time will tell. It could be or it could be worn on your right hand or alternated out as your mood dictates.

For years I had one ring that represented being “taken”. Now (after finding PS), I have five that I am likely to rotate. It’s not that I don’t love my original, or even my first upgrade. It’s that I love being able to customize my ring finger and enjoy all the pretty things and express my personality through that.

I hope that makes sense.

+1

 

[Agnasia]

See this is one of those posts that I was dreading that make me question things! Not sure on the colour or clarity and I’m guessing it’s shallow as it’s so spready? Hard to see the faceting properly too.

 

[AL12]

See this is one of those posts that I was dreading that make me question things! Not sure on the colour or clarity and I’m guessing it’s shallow as it’s so spready? Hard to see the faceting properly too.

Eeekk.. I just came here to possibly link this for you …. But didn’t want to cast so much doubt on your decision so I wasn’t sure if I would have. Looks like you already found it though…. Will let oec experts give their thoughts…

Edit: I do think the faceting is prettier on yours from my untrained eyes. Especially the center

 

[lulu_ma]

See this is one of those posts that I was dreading that make me question things! Not sure on the colour or clarity and I’m guessing it’s shallow as it’s so spready? Hard to see the faceting properly too.

55% depth and SI2. The one you chose is better clarity and will likely have more fire bc of the depth.

ETA: the JBW one might be pretty as a bezeled pendant.

 

[Agnasia]

Eeekk.. I just came here to possibly link this for you …. But didn’t want to cast so much doubt on your decision so I wasn’t sure if I would have. Looks like you already found it though…. Will let oec experts give their thoughts…

Edit: I do think the faceting is prettier on yours from my untrained eyes. Especially the center

Great minds and all that!! Yes it always seems to be the centre I’m not sure on!

55% depth and SI2. The one you chose is better clarity and will likely have more fire bc of the depth.

ETA: the JBW one might be pretty as a bezeled pendant.

Ooh did you see the GIA report? Thank you for the feedback.

 

[AL12]

Great minds and all that!! Yes it always seems to be the centre I’m not sure on!



Ooh did you see the GIA report? Thank you for the feedback.

I bet @lulu_ma asked to see it... she's good at that

Yes the middle faceting of your center stone looks to be crisper...probably bc of how shallow the JBW one is? But it does come with a nice spread. Depends on what is more important to you right? How much you're willing to compromise performance for spread and just SO hard to know without seeing it in person or perhaps even side by side comparisons.

I think above PS-ers give a good point that this is but also is-not your forever ring. It is probably also a good reminder for myself! I would agree that my wishlist (if i had infinite funds) is quite long. But I also connect with you on wanting to get such a large purchase "just right".... so that you can not not have that itch come back sooner versus later.

 

[lulu_ma]

Great minds and all that!! Yes it always seems to be the centre I’m not sure on!



Ooh did you see the GIA report? Thank you for the feedback.

The dimensions are in the text

 

[Cerulean]

See this is one of those posts that I was dreading that make me question things! Not sure on the colour or clarity and I’m guessing it’s shallow as it’s so spready? Hard to see the faceting properly too.

Not nearly as nice as the one you found. Very shallow

 

[Agnasia]

The dimensions are in the text

Ha ha oops!

Not nearly as nice as the one you found. Very shallow

Ok thank you! Think I needed to hear this!

 

[Agnasia]

I have CADs! My initial reaction is that I really like it but open to feedback.

Do you think I need the gap at the bottom of the shank or could it be resized easily without this? I don’t have measurements though so I can ask for this.

 

[oldcutclubmember]

I like it! I’m not good at reading CADs so I will let others chime in about the specifics.

I think if you were the resize, the triwire part would basically look like how it looks now in the CADs. So, I don’t think you need the space from the get-go. It can probably resized to look like how it is in the CADs now and as long as you are fine with it looking like that post-sizing, I don’t see why the space is necessary until you DO resize it.

 

[lulu_ma]

It looks pretty! I just wonder if the there are too many teardrops in the gallery-just looks a tad busy to me. Perhaps 3-4-3 instead of the current 4-5-4? This is just a minor stylistic note. You may prefer the tighter look…

Also, what is the mm length of the three bezels? (I’m always thinking about finger coverage

 

[dmack]

I like it! Do you know the shank width? I don’t think you need the space for future resize - a resize should be able to accommodate a tri wire shank, but ask them to confirm.

 

[Agnasia]

I like it! I’m not good at reading CADs so I will let other’s chime in about the specifics.

I think if you were the resize, the triwire part would basically look like how it looks now in the CADs. So, I don’t think you need the space from the get-go. It can probably resized to look like how it is in the CADs now and as long as you are fine with it looking like that post-sizing, I don’t see why the space is necessary until you DO resize it.

Oh yes I see what you mean, if I don’t have a gap and then needed it bigger I can then have a gap added in. I have asked for this ring in a size 6, my wedding band is 5.75 but fits more snugly as it’s flat. Do you think a tri wire would look ok with the flat profile of my wedding band?

It looks pretty! I just wonder if the there are too many teardrops in the gallery-just looks a tad busy to me. Perhaps 3-4-3 instead of the current 4-5-4? This is just a minor stylistic note. You may prefer the tighter look…

Also, what is the mm length of the three bezels? (I’m always thinking about finger coverage

Yes that’s a good point, it may look better with less. I think my sketch had less.

I’m not sure but think it should be at least 18mm, I will ask for the measurements.

I like it! Do you know the shank width? I don’t think you need the space for future resize - a resize should be able to accommodate a tri wire shank, but ask them to confirm.

I asked for the shank to be between 2.5 and 2.7mm at its widest, but will check the measurements with them. Yes thank you, I will ask and take out the gap I think.

 

[Cerulean]

It looks pretty! I just wonder if the there are too many teardrops in the gallery-just looks a tad busy to me. Perhaps 3-4-3 instead of the current 4-5-4? This is just a minor stylistic note. You may prefer the tighter look…

Also, what is the mm length of the three bezels? (I’m always thinking about finger coverage

I agree. I’d personally remove some of the petals. It’s all going to be very tiny and difficult for you to clean, and difficult to tidy up and polish to perfection for their bench IMO. I also think the double milgrain is going to be a bit fussy and make it look messy. It’s hard to explain, but unless they are applying it by fully hand it’s going to be less fine and hard to do in such a small space. Their bench may be more capable than I realize but I’m surprised to see it’s even possible in such a small space

I’d confirm that they aren’t casting the milgrain. I would highly recommend you ask them to apply it by hand (they will probably use a little “stamping” tool and that I’ll be much finer than cast, but less fine than fully hand done)

I’d do something more like this



Last agree with @Muluver on the sizing bar point. I really don’t know that this is necessary and the milgrain especially may be a little irritating and calls more attention to it

Take all of this as my 2 cents

 

[Cerulean]

The last thing I’ll add, a true handforged tri wire is not going to have a taper without tons of fine, hand done sanding

I don’t know if the illusion of
handforged matters to you, but if it does I’d remove the taper towards the head

I personally like a taper so don’t know if aesthetically it disrupts, it’s just stylistically more of the time / style without the taper

 

[Cerulean]

Last thing

I think the milgrain at the base around the donuts is competing with the tri wire and it will likely take on a lot of wear and tear, but up to you

 

[Cerulean]

Ok I lied when I said last thing haha

You could also ask them to reduce the thickness of the bezels at the top on the profile so you have more real estate for petals - here are my apologetically bad sketches

Entirely up to you if you like the chunkier look! There is something ncie about how the thickness of the bezel in the profile roughly matches the thickness of the wires.

No right of wrong answers and I’m not a CAD expert, just a random person with a background in fine arts



Soooo you could ask them to taper from the side as well for a slimmer overall look

 

[oldcutclubmember]

Do you think a tri wire would look ok with the flat profile of my wedding band?

I think it will definitely be a contrast in size, height and texture. I personally don’t mind a lot of contrast and like mixing up my bands and stacks. If you are not sure, perhaps you can try to check out some tri wire rings to see?

If you think a triwire would be too much contrast, maybe consider a double wire? I think that may be less contrast in shape and I would try to match the height of the band to the exact height of your wedding band.

Pic of double wire:

 

[oldcutclubmember]

Ok I lied when I said last thing haha

You could also ask them to reduce the thickness of the bezels at the top on the profile so you have more real estate for petals - here are my apologetically bad sketches

Entirely up to you if you like the chunkier look! There is something ncie about how the thickness of the bezel in the profile roughly matches the thickness of the wires.

No right of wrong answers and I’m not a CAD expert, just a random person with a background in fine arts

I think these suggestions are excellent and also wholeheartedly agree about keeping the milgrain to single for the gallery. Also I completely agree about not casting the milgrain. It will not look delicate and fine if cast.

 

[Agnasia]

I agree. I’d personally remove some of the petals. It’s all going to be very tiny and difficult for you to clean, and difficult to tidy up and polish to perfection for their bench IMO. I also think the double milgrain is going to be a bit fussy and make it look messy. It’s hard to explain, but unless they are applying it by fully hand it’s going to be less fine and hard to do in such a small space

I’d confirm that they aren’t casting the milgrain. I would highly recommend you ask them to apply it by hand (they will probably use a little “stamping” tool and that I’ll be much finer than cast, but less fine than fully hand done)

I’d do something more like this



Last agree with @Muluver on the sizing bar point. I really don’t know that this is necessary and the milgrain especially may be a little irritating and calls more attention to it

Take all of this as my 2 cents

Ooh yes thank you, I prefer your adjustments and may send them your pic if that’s ok? I will ask how they are applying the milgrain as I would like it as fine as possible. Do you mean the double milgrain on the petals or all of the double milgrain?

Yes I think I will go ahead and remove the sizing gap on the shank.

The last thing I’ll add, a true handforged tri wire is not going to have a taper without tons of fine, hand done sanding

I don’t know if the illusion of
handforged matters to you, but if it does I’d remove the taper towards the head

I personally like a taper so don’t know if aesthetically it disrupts, it’s just stylistically more of the time / style without the taper

The illusion of handforged doesn’t really bother me. I was never a fan of a taper and all my rings are straight, but the inspo ring had a taper and it looks quite elegant to me.

Last thing

I think the milgrain at the base around the donuts is competing with the tri wire and it will likely take on a lot of wear and tear, but up to you

Ok thanks for the advice.

Ok I lied when I said last thing haha

You could also ask them to reduce the thickness of the bezels at the top on the profile so you have more real estate for petals - here are my apologetically bad sketches

Entirely up to you if you like the chunkier look! There is something ncie about how the thickness of the bezel in the profile roughly matches the thickness of the wires.

No right of wrong answers and I’m not a CAD expert, just a random person with a background in fine arts



Soooo you could ask them to taper from the side as well for a slimmer overall look

Ha ha thanks! Yes I like it less chunky and thank for all your input, it is much appreciated!

 

[Cerulean]

Ooh yes thank you, I prefer your adjustments and may send them your pic if that’s ok? I will ask how they are applying the milgrain as I would like it as fine as possible. Do you mean the double milgrain on the petals or all of the double milgrain?

Yes I think I will go ahead and remove the sizing gap on the shank.



The illusion of handforged doesn’t really bother me. I was never a fan of a taper and all my rings are straight, but the inspo ring had a taper and it looks quite elegant to me.



Ok thanks for the advice.



Ha ha thanks! Yes I like it less chunky and thank for all your input, it is much appreciated!

oh yes send whatever sketches you want!

i think just the double milgrain in the gallery / basket - i think from the top view around the bezel its another story!

 

[Cerulean]

calling @Niel, @yssie and @Rfisher for CAD eagle eyes

 

[Agnasia]

I think it will definitely be a contrast in size, height and texture. I personally don’t mind a lot of contrast and like mixing up my bands and stacks. If you are not sure, perhaps you can try to check out some tri wire rings to see?

If you think a triwire would be too much contrast, maybe consider a double wire? I think that may be less contrast in shape and I would try to match the height of the band to the exact height of your wedding band.

Pic of double wire:

Thank you, yes I’m ok with contrast but maybe it’s about matching the height then. I like the double wire too so that’s definitely an option.

I think these suggestions are excellent and also wholeheartedly agree about keeping the milgrain to single for the gallery. Also I completely agree about not casting the milgrain. It will not look delicate and fine if cast.

Yes me too! So single milgrain on the petals and the donuts. Yes I will ask that question about not casting the milgrain.

 

[Niel]

So many of the things have been said here so forgive me- but I want to reiterate.
I would NOT want cast millgrain. I would get clear confirmation that they will be doing that by hand.
I wish the cathedral wire of the tri wire was not tapered.
I would not do a double milgrain bezels on the middle stone In the middle stone if you’re doing single millgrain bezels on the side stones
I would make sure the donuts are the same thickness as the two wires of the shank that meet them. The cads make it seem currently like the donuts are smaller than the thickness of the shank.

I’d reduce the number of petals like suggested before

I like the design of having a line through the donut - however it’s very thin. I think it might be too cluttered/ muddled to try and fit two lines with of millgrain in such a squat area. I’d consider just one engraved line and not try to gild the Lily.
I’m attaching an example. Imagine putting two rows of millgrain in this space



Honestly I think you could revisit a lot of the milgrain and think “do I need it?”
Here’s an example of somebody doing it just in the bezels - I don’t think you have to scrap it all- just I would really ask “does this make sense does it really add to the design”

Custom 2.61 cttw 3-Stone by DK!

I had posted an earlier thread about a solitaire that I had bought off of Ebay and about resetting it. https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-new-and-i-got-this-ebay-diamond.237493/ To be honest, I was just going to keep it as it was for a while, BUT, I dropped it down my couch and...

www.pricescope.com

 

[AL12]

I really don't know anything about CADs but just came to say that you must be so excited to see how this project is coming along!

 

[yssie]

Agree with all prior suggestions! Esp. @Cerulean’s comments!

One last comment from me. The interior of the shank. When you use three wires, there’s a negative space between the wires. That negative space can trap moisture, lotion, etc. Kind of unavoidable with a hand-forged tri wire, but this will be cast… No reason not to make the interior of the shank solid! It will be stronger and more comfortable if he fills that space between the “wires” in.

 

[Agnasia]

So many of the things have been said here so forgive me- but I want to reiterate.
I would NOT want cast millgrain. I would get clear confirmation that they will be doing that by hand.
I wish the cathedral wire of the tri wire was not tapered.
I would not do a double milgrain bezels on the middle stone In the middle stone if you’re doing single millgrain bezels on the side stones
I would make sure the donuts are the same thickness as the two wires of the shank that meet them. The cads make it seem currently like the donuts are smaller than the thickness of the shank.

I’d reduce the number of petals like suggested before

I like the design of having a line through the donut - however it’s very thin. I think it might be too cluttered/ muddled to try and fit two lines with of millgrain in such a squat area. I’d consider just one engraved line and not try to gild the Lily.
I’m attaching an example. Imagine putting two rows of millgrain in this space



Honestly I think you could revisit a lot of the milgrain and think “do I need it?”
Here’s an example of somebody doing it just in the bezels - I don’t think you have to scrap it all- just I would really ask “does this make sense does it really add to the design”

Custom 2.61 cttw 3-Stone by DK!

I had posted an earlier thread about a solitaire that I had bought off of Ebay and about resetting it. https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-new-and-i-got-this-ebay-diamond.237493/ To be honest, I was just going to keep it as it was for a while, BUT, I dropped it down my couch and...

www.pricescope.com

Thank you for all of the feedback. I will definitely clarify how the milgrain is being done.

May I ask why you would not taper the cathedral wire?

I’m reviewing the amount of milgrain and will absolutely reduce it.

That three stone is beautiful, thank you for sharing.

I really don't know anything about CADs but just came to say that you must be so excited to see how this project is coming along!

Thanks! Although I’m still constantly questioning myself!

Agree with all prior suggestions! Esp. @Cerulean’s comments!

One last comment from me. The interior of the shank. When you use three wires, there’s a negative space between the wires. That negative space can trap moisture, lotion, etc. Kind of unavoidable with a hand-forged tri wire, but this will be cast… No reason not to make the interior of the shank solid! It will be stronger and more comfortable if he fills that space between the “wires” in.

Thank you for mentioning that, as it would never have occurred to me. I will absolutely ask for the interior to be solid.

May I ask what everyone’s thoughts are on the double milgrain on the centre bezel only?

 

[Rfisher]

calling @Niel, @yssie and @Rfisher for CAD eagle eyes

My thoughts pretty much echo Cerulean.

Only thing I can add, @Agnasia
Is to look thru I&R’s past rings (actual pictures of the finished rings - NOT renderings) with design elements similar to your cad. So you can choose what fits to your tastes in these opinions. And also (more importantly imo) to ‘see’ the why of the suggestions.
I’d also ask them to see examples of their finished custom rings with cast milgrain vs hand applied.

 

[Agnasia]

My thoughts pretty much echo Cerulean.

Only thing I can add, @Agnasia
Is to look thru I&R’s past rings (actual pictures of the finished rings - NOT renderings) with design elements similar to your cad. So you can choose what fits to your tastes in these opinions. And also (more importantly imo) to ‘see’ the why of the suggestions.
I’d also ask them to see examples of their finished custom rings with cast milgrain vs hand applied.

Thank you, yes looking at actual finished custom rings is a great idea, I’ll have a scroll through their insta feed. I’ll also ask for an example of their milgrain on a custom ring.