Would you sacrifice colour in an OEC to maximise size?

[Cerulean]

The archives for Lang Antiques, Victor Barbone, Erstwhile and Pebble and polish are good fodder for design ideas

 

[Agnasia]

Sorry I can’t answer in depth atm, but the more tapered your baskets are, the smaller the gap will be.

Not to overwhelm you, but you’ll want to think about if the side stones are flush, or dropped at a lower height - here’s an example with side stones that are set lower than the center.

Do you have a profile picture of the hancocks ring you liked? Sorry if you shared and I got lost

MOCIUN on Instagram: "The new Helios Ring. Center 2.68 ct. U/VS2 King cut diamond flanked by two rose round cut yellow diamonds. A proprietary cut from the 1950s, the King cut has 86 facets, which affect the pattern of the reflections in a diamond ra

1,343 likes, 10 comments - mociun on November 23, 2019: "The new Helios Ring. Center 2.68 ct. U/VS2 King cut diamond flanked by two rose round cut yellow diamonds. A proprietary cut from the 1950s, the King cut has 86 facets, which affect the pattern of the reflections in a diamond rather than...

www.instagram.com

No worries this is really helpful to start with and I’ll have a good look at the insta three stone.

The Hancocks ring is in my post above, first pic and it’s the yellow gold ring on the right.

 

[oldcutclubmember]

As @Cerulean mentioned, the height of the sides is a pretty important factor. My personal preference is sides set a bit lower than the center with them angled/tucked in a bit.

I personally prefer some of the other ideas you have for the shank but if you really want the 2 rings to look like a “set” maybe you want the shank to mimic the design of your band? How wide is your band and what kind of melee does it have? You can still have the shank taper and thinner than your band but perhaps you want some similarly set melee on the shank.

 

[Agnasia]

Sorry @Cerulean I hadn’t seen your other messages! Lots of food for thought thank you! I will have a good look through.

 

[Agnasia]

As @Cerulean mentioned, the height of the sides is a pretty important factor. My personal preference is sides set a bit lower than the center with them angled/tucked in a bit.

I personally prefer some of the other ideas you have for the shank but if you really want the 2 rings to look like a “set” maybe you want the shank to mimic the design of your band? How wide is your band and what kind of melee does it have? You can still have the shank taper and thinner than your band but perhaps you want some similarly set melee on the shank.

Thank you for the insight. Yes I’m thinking slightly lowered and angled sides.

They don’t have to be matchy matchy but just not be a complete disconnect and work well together. My band is about 3.1mm wide and think the diamonds are single cuts, they’re from a brooch owned by my grandmother in law and are bead set.

 

[lulu_ma]

Since you are committed to the smaller sides, I would not make the side stones too angled or you will visually reduce finger coverage.

I recently reset my engagement stone. The original design had the sides angled down and I didn’t love the finger coverage. I had my jeweler angle the side up slightly and I am really happy with the result.

PB on Instagram: "It’s time for Waxy Wednesday. Here’s the original wax versus the final version. The top version looked more tasteful to me but in the end Finger Coverage won #waxwednesday #ringmold #fingercoverage #ringgoals #shesaidyes #ringsetti

22 likes, 0 comments - bejewelledbliss on May 18, 2022: "It’s time for Waxy Wednesday. Here’s the original wax versus the final version. The top version looked more tasteful to me but in the end Finger Coverage won #waxwednesday #ringmold #fingercoverage #ringgoals #shesaidyes #ringsetting...

www.instagram.com

Here’s a profile of the finished ring (just for the angles).

 

[Agnasia]

Since you are committed to the smaller sides, I would not make the side stones too angled or you will visually reduce finger coverage.

I recently reset my engagement stone. The original design had the sides angled down and I didn’t love the finger coverage. I had my jeweler angle the side up slightly and I am really happy with the result.

PB on Instagram: "It’s time for Waxy Wednesday. Here’s the original wax versus the final version. The top version looked more tasteful to me but in the end Finger Coverage won #waxwednesday #ringmold #fingercoverage #ringgoals #shesaidyes #ringsetti

22 likes, 0 comments - bejewelledbliss on May 18, 2022: "It’s time for Waxy Wednesday. Here’s the original wax versus the final version. The top version looked more tasteful to me but in the end Finger Coverage won #waxwednesday #ringmold #fingercoverage #ringgoals #shesaidyes #ringsetting...

www.instagram.com

Here’s a profile of the finished ring (just for the angles).

Thank you for this perspective, I don’t want to lose finger coverage but I also don’t want to have a sharp transition between the stones and the shank. Yours looks very graceful.

This is all incredibly helpful, thank you. Lots to think about!

 

[Agnasia]

Ok I have some initial ideas, apologies in advance for my rubbish sketches! I’m not wedded to anything, so open to any and all feedback.

Idea 1 ~ Tri wire shank, one side plain, the other with motif, petal gallery



Inspo for motif as my sketch is not exactly the best!



Petal gallery inspo



Idea 2 ~ Engraved shank with plain sides



Engraving inspo



DK gallery inspo

 

[RetroQT]

Ok I have some initial ideas, apologies in advance for my rubbish sketches! I’m not wedded to anything, so open to any and all feedback.

Idea 1 ~ Tri wire shank, one side plain, the other with motif, petal gallery



Inspo for motif as my sketch is not exactly the best!



Petal gallery inspo



Idea 2 ~ Engraved shank with plain sides



Engraving inspo



DK gallery inspo

I think you have some wonderful ideas! This is just personal opinion, but I’m hesitant to have engraving anywhere that’s going to rub against another band for fear it would get messed up. Maybe it wouldn’t. But again, just an opinion.

 

[Cerulean]

I like both! I’m a sucker for floral motifs but I like the simplicity of the filigree style in idea 2.

 

[Agnasia]

I think you have some wonderful ideas! This is just personal opinion, but I’m hesitant to have engraving anywhere that’s going to rub against another band for fear it would get messed up. Maybe it wouldn’t. But again, just an opinion.

Thank you! Do you think that would still be an issue if the sides of the shank are plain?

I like both! I’m a sucker for floral motifs but I like the simplicity of the filigree style in idea 2.

Me too! It’s going to be hard to decide what to choose.

 

[Agnasia]

So from what I’ve read I don’t think tri wire will be an option? It’s sounds like it’s best for hand forged pieces? Also I’m assuming sizing would be an issue?

 

[Cerulean]

So from what I’ve read I don’t think tri wire will be an option? It’s sounds like it’s best for hand forged pieces? Also I’m assuming sizing would be an issue?

It looks the cleanest for hand forged, it’s doable with casting for sure. Not sure about sizing. I think some jewelers could do it, and some couldn’t

 

[Agnasia]

It looks the cleanest for hand forged, it’s doable with casting for sure. Not sure about sizing. I think some jewelers could do it, and some couldn’t

Thank you, good to know it’s doable with casting as I do like the look. Maybe it’s possible to have some kind of sizing bar at the back? Otherwise it may be easier to stick to a plain or engraved shank.

 

[Cerulean]

Thank you, good to know it’s doable with casting as I do like the look. Maybe it’s possible to have some kind of sizing bar at the back? Otherwise it may be easier to stick to a plain or engraved shank.

talk with I&R about resizing, figuring out a sizing bar if you’ve never had one is fussy. You’re talking about tiny increments of measurements. Whenever I’ve requested speed bumps, sizing bars or adding a little extra material inside to shave away..I’ve had jewelers discourage me as it may take a few tries to get it right so that it isn’t too tight / loose and I ended up not needing them anyways

in full transparency I’ve used their bench before and it’s pretty decent, but I’m not sure how advanced / complex they can get. Will be worth asking to see how they manage?

FWIW The separate settings they sell are not made by them - I believe they are manufactured in china.

And the difference between casting vs forging tri wire is that you lose the effect of 3 distinct wires being used in the shank, when they are cast it’s clearly one piece

 

[Agnasia]

talk with I&R about resizing, figuring out a sizing bar if you’ve never had one is fussy. You’re talking about tiny increments of measurements. Whenever I’ve requested speed bumps, sizing bars or adding a little extra material inside to shave away..I’ve had jewelers discourage me as it may take a few tries to get it right so that it isn’t too tight / loose and I ended up not needing them anyways

in full transparency I’ve used their bench before and it’s pretty decent, but I’m not sure how advanced / complex they can get. Will be worth asking to see how they manage?

FWIW The separate settings they sell are not made by them - I believe they are manufactured in china.

And the difference between casting vs forging tri wire is that you lose the effect of 3 distinct wires being used in the shank, when they are cast it’s clearly one piece

Aah I think I’m using the wrong terminology, sorry. I know exactly what you mean and I’ve not had one of those before. What I’m thinking is to leaving a gap at the back of the shank that’s plain, some engraved bands have them, so that you have space to resize if needs be.

Like this



I’ll ask them if it’s possible and if they can show me examples of their tri wire if they’ve done it before. I’d rather play to their strengths so I know I’ll get a good outcome.

I didn’t realise they outsourced their other settings. Good to know their bench is decent, this is what I’m thinking design wise.

 

[Agnasia]

I’ve sent the above sketch along with some inspo pics in a pdf (!) to I&R and they’re going to get started on the CAD! Will post once I get something through!

 

[Cerulean]

Aah I think I’m using the wrong terminology, sorry. I know exactly what you mean and I’ve not had one of those before. What I’m thinking is to leaving a gap at the back of the shank that’s plain, some engraved bands have them, so that you have space to resize if needs be.

Like this



I’ll ask them if it’s possible and if they can show me examples of their tri wire if they’ve done it before. I’d rather play to their strengths so I know I’ll get a good outcome.

I didn’t realise they outsourced their other settings. Good to know their bench is decent, this is what I’m thinking design wise.

Very pretty!

To be honest, I think the sizing bar is going to look strange because it’s going to really interrupt the flow of the shank (the “bar” part is going to be a different height at the edges) but that’s just me. I guess you can always see how CADs look. I was not of a the understanding that a cast tri wire shank is impossible to resize.

 

[sweetpea&babycorn]

Would you consider double milgraining just the center stone? I think that may be a pretty look and visually make the center look a bit bigger.

Here is @sweetpea&babycorn ’s amazing OMC that is double milgrained.

Thank you for thinking of my ring! To be perfectly honest I don’t love the double milgrain for my center stone and it wasn’t part of the original CADs. However I trusted DK’s judgment when he said he doubled it to protect the girdle and to keep the fineness of the milgrain, otherwise the milgraining would be far larger than either of us preferred. Anyway, I love the way your ring design has come along and can’t wait to see the final product!

 

[Agnasia]

Very pretty!

To be honest, I think the sizing bar is going to look strange because it’s going to really interrupt the flow of the shank (the “bar” part is going to be a different height at the edges) but that’s just me. I guess you can always see how CADs look. I was not of a the understanding that a cast tri wire shank is impossible to resize.

Ok that’s helpful, thank you. If it can be resized without having to leave a gap then that would be my preference, as you say it interrupts the flow somewhat.

Thank you for thinking of my ring! To be perfectly honest I don’t love the double milgrain for my center stone and it wasn’t part of the original CADs. However I trusted DK’s judgment when he said he doubled it to protect the girdle and to keep the fineness of the milgrain, otherwise the milgraining would be far larger than either of us preferred. Anyway, I love the way your ring design has come along and can’t wait to see the final product!

That’s interesting, may I ask why you don’t love it? It sounds like it was a clever solution, but not what you had envisaged?

There is a part of me now that is overthinking (as I usually do) and wondering if I’m making changes just for the sake of it, rather than just following the inspo ring. I like the idea of making it my own rather than an out and out copy, but on the flipside I’ve tried this ring on and loved it so why mess with it?

The other thing I’m wondering is about the shank. My wedding ring is flat/squared off (not rounded) so I do want the shank to work with this, although it doesn’t have to be identical. Here is a pic of my wedding band on its own and sat next to a ring with more rounded profile. I’ve asked for the shank to be a minimum of 2.5mm which is the same as the rounded ring, or 2.7mm.



Aargh I think I just need to see the CAD and perhaps suck up any CAD change costs to get this right.

 

[Agnasia]

Perhaps these could be a back up option? Soft knife edge with milgrain or plain flat tapered band with milgrain?

 

[AL12]

Ha ha go ahead! Ok so the bigger side stones were $648 more than the smaller ones. Total cost with the smaller size side diamonds and centre was $5760 (the sides were $810). They have estimated the setting in platinum will be $1600-1800.

Delayed reply since I fell off the grid but thank you for the information especially as a lot of our wants and budget are similar!

I'm tracking along this journey and excited to see how much progress you've made!

 

[Agnasia]

Delayed reply since I fell off the grid but thank you for the information especially as a lot of our wants and budget are similar!

I'm tracking along this journey and excited to see how much progress you've made!

No worries! I can’t help overthink a bit though, should I have waited to see what else comes along or just go for it? I just hope I don’t see anything else that’s tempting!

I did have a bit of a mad moment yesterday and saw a 1.8 with I&R that I nearly messaged them about, but then talked myself down especially as it’s lower in colour and nearly double the price of my existing centre!!!!!

 

[Cerulean]

No worries! I can’t help overthink a bit though, should I have waited to see what else comes along or just go for it? I just hope I don’t see anything else that’s tempting!

I did have a bit of a mad moment yesterday and saw a 1.8 with I&R that I nearly messaged them about, but then talked myself down especially as it’s lower in colour and nearly double the price of my existing centre!!!!!

If you are still feeling uncertain there’s not reason to push yourself to make a purchase now!

Although some amount of nervousness I think is always there.

 

[Agnasia]

If you are still feeling uncertain there’s not reason to push yourself to make a purchase now!

Although some amount of nervousness I think is always there.

I’ve paid a 50% deposit though, so not sure there is any wiggle room there. No matter what I get I think I will be over thinking things.

 

[AL12]

No worries! I can’t help overthink a bit though, should I have waited to see what else comes along or just go for it? I just hope I don’t see anything else that’s tempting!

I did have a bit of a mad moment yesterday and saw a 1.8 with I&R that I nearly messaged them about, but then talked myself down especially as it’s lower in colour and nearly double the price of my existing centre!!!!!

I feel like we are similar in many ways it’s hard for us to get away from the “what if”. Personally I think you did an amazing job with your stone selection and also staying within budget but of course you need to also believe that for yourself.

If you’re REALLY wavering, would your deposit be able to go to another stone in their inventory? Just laying out options since I don’t think there is anything wrong at all with what you’ve already picked out.

I’m looking at two diamonds next week too, there is about a $2k different between the two… I basically shouldn’t even be looking at the higher priced one but I just need to satisfy my “what if” itch. I’m also wondering if I need to take a step back from the project for a bit to kind of sort through what my real budget is etc.

 

[Agnasia]

I feel like we are similar in many ways it’s hard for us to get away from the “what if”. Personally I think you did an amazing job with your stone selection and also staying within budget but of course you need to also believe that for yourself.

If you’re REALLY wavering, would your deposit be able to go to another stone in their inventory? Just laying out options since I don’t think there is anything wrong at all with what you’ve already picked out.

I’m looking at two diamonds next week too, there is about a $2k different between the two… I basically shouldn’t even be looking at the higher priced one but I just need to satisfy my “what if” itch. I’m also wondering if I need to take a step back from the project for a bit to kind of sort through what my real budget is etc.

Ha ha I think we are! Thank you, the diamonds do look lovely together. I think I’m just worried about what if it’s not “enough”, I really don’t want to have another conversation with my husband about bigger diamonds! If this realistically is the long term piece of jewellery will it satisfy me long term.

I could ask about the other diamond, but it’s so much more expensive and a big chunk more than the 1.8ct N I enquired about. Would I feel comfortable spending that much? Whilst my husband has said the budget is flexible, would he really be ok with me spending a lot more than I would with this ring.

It’s hard because I can’t see any of it in real life until it’s done, so what if I don’t love it?

 

[Agnasia]

Sorry I meant to add @AL12 that sounds exciting to see the two diamonds. I think it’s good to see both, at least it will make you feel more comfortable in what you choose and know you’ve dealt with the “what if” part.

 

[RetroQT]

I think for many of us here on PS, “forever” (in terms of jewelry) is loosely translated to “for now”. That doesn’t mean you won’t absolutely love it. You’ve put so much of yourself into this project that I honestly think you will. But you’ve learned a ton, too and with that comes the thirst for more of the excitement and challenge of the next project or hunt.

This ring will be one you will love forever because it will be so personal to you. But will it always be the one on your left ring finger? Only time will tell. It could be or it could be worn on your right hand or alternated out as your mood dictates.

For years I had one ring that represented being “taken”. Now (after finding PS), I have five that I am likely to rotate. It’s not that I don’t love my original, or even my first upgrade. It’s that I love being able to customize my ring finger and enjoy all the pretty things and express my personality through that.

I hope that makes sense.

 

[Agnasia]

I think for many of us here on PS, “forever” (in terms of jewelry) is loosely translated to “for now”. That doesn’t mean you won’t absolutely love it. You’ve put so much of yourself into this project that I honestly think you will. But you’ve learned a ton, too and with that comes the thirst for more of the excitement and challenge of the next project or hunt.

This ring will be one you will love forever because it will be so personal to you. But will it always be the one on your left ring finger? Only time will tell. It could be or it could be worn on your right hand or alternated out as your mood dictates.

For years I had one ring that represented being “taken”. Now (after finding PS), I have five that I am likely to rotate. It’s not that I don’t love my original, or even my first upgrade. It’s that I love being able to customize my ring finger and enjoy all the pretty things and express my personality through that.

I hope that makes sense.

That’s a really helpful perspective, thank you. There are many possibilities for the future and I do enjoy switching things up and wearing different rings depending on my outfit, occasion or activity. Maybe I’m putting too much weight and responsibility on this one ring!